NWP Engineering VE Auto does 12s!
11-26-2007, 12:36 PM
#81
With me running high 12s, I am looking at my tach in 3rd gear and as I'm passing through the traps, I'm revving about 6300. I keep OD off and allow the TC to lockup by itself. I haven't played with my manual TC lockup switch. I won't do that until I start getting more consistant ETs with nitrous. But my rev limiter is set at 7000 I think. I'll try not to shift into 4th.
One more thing, you mentioned welding the differential. I believe this will lock the two front wheels together, right? I won't be able to turn the car without the outside wheel sliding and hopping. If this was a 100% trailor car, I'd do that. But since I drive it to the track, I'm not willing to lock it completely together.
11-26-2007, 12:51 PM
#82
Yeah, I remember reading that the gearing change alone probably slowed you down.
With me running high 12s, I am looking at my tach in 3rd gear and as I'm passing through the traps, I'm revving about 6300. I keep OD off and allow the TC to lockup by itself. I haven't played with my manual TC lockup switch. I won't do that until I start getting more consistant ETs with nitrous. But my rev limiter is set at 7000 I think. I'll try not to shift into 4th.
One more thing, you mentioned welding the differential. I believe this will lock the two front wheels together, right? I won't be able to turn the car without the outside wheel sliding and hopping. If this was a 100% trailor car, I'd do that. But since I drive it to the track, I'm not willing to lock it completely together.
With me running high 12s, I am looking at my tach in 3rd gear and as I'm passing through the traps, I'm revving about 6300. I keep OD off and allow the TC to lockup by itself. I haven't played with my manual TC lockup switch. I won't do that until I start getting more consistant ETs with nitrous. But my rev limiter is set at 7000 I think. I'll try not to shift into 4th.
One more thing, you mentioned welding the differential. I believe this will lock the two front wheels together, right? I won't be able to turn the car without the outside wheel sliding and hopping. If this was a 100% trailor car, I'd do that. But since I drive it to the track, I'm not willing to lock it completely together.
11-26-2007, 01:03 PM
#83
My brother's trailored Chevelle had a locked rear. It only hopped while making tight turns. That is RWD, which is much worse. A FWD shouldn't be nearly as bad now that I think about it just b/c of the sharpness of the turn alone. You got me thinking about what I really want for my bulletproof tranny when I get it built.
And I have no plans to get my tranny built up until this one pops.
11-26-2007, 02:13 PM
#84
I wonder has anyone tried running a restistor and relay inline with the knock sensor to pull timing
I was thinking about running one thur a relay and wiring it to my nitrous controller. this way I could use the fjo controller to tell the relay when to turn on and off and in theory pull or run full timing
just a idea I was kicking around for when I run higher shots
I was thinking about running one thur a relay and wiring it to my nitrous controller. this way I could use the fjo controller to tell the relay when to turn on and off and in theory pull or run full timing
just a idea I was kicking around for when I run higher shots
11-26-2007, 02:45 PM
#85
I wonder has anyone tried running a restistor and relay inline with the knock sensor to pull timing
I was thinking about running one thur a relay and wiring it to my nitrous controller. this way I could use the fjo controller to tell the relay when to turn on and off and in theory pull or run full timing
just a idea I was kicking around for when I run higher shots
I was thinking about running one thur a relay and wiring it to my nitrous controller. this way I could use the fjo controller to tell the relay when to turn on and off and in theory pull or run full timing
just a idea I was kicking around for when I run higher shots
11-26-2007, 02:52 PM
#86
SO i can disconnect it and it will run better jime? I have a bad knock sensor and really dont need it as i have a spare motor.
11-26-2007, 02:52 PM
#87
When I spray nitrous, I can always alter my base timing since I have a VE. Or I can choose between two ECU programs, one is stock, and one is meant for a 93 octane street tune. So when I want to spray nitrous on the street, I just flip back to the stock program first.
One more thing, I am still using the stock battery. I just weighed it in at just over 40 lbs! I recently found a thread where Jime hacked into a jumper box and used that battery.
Now that's a cheap and easy way to have a lightweight battery! Thanks! Along with removing my battery tray, I will be able to shave another 35 lbs from my car!
11-26-2007, 02:54 PM
#88
He is referring to disconnecting it, which uses a safety timing map and retards ignition timing. So it will make your car slower. If your KS is already completely dead, just by unplugging it, you shouldn't see any difference b/c the ECU is already using this safety timing map.
11-26-2007, 04:06 PM
#90
And MAYBE experimenting with a lock rear strut assembly.But, no, I never got the Zemulator working the way I wanted to in my Maxima. I aborted this project and I just have an upgraded ECU that I can easily switch back to the stock program with.
One more thing, I tested my o2 sensor today and it's fine. I drove my car for about 10 miles and couldn't get it to act up again. I'm still thinking the o2 sensor is on the way out.
11-26-2007, 06:07 PM
#91
He is referring to disconnecting it, which uses a safety timing map and retards ignition timing. So it will make your car slower. If your KS is already completely dead, just by unplugging it, you shouldn't see any difference b/c the ECU is already using this safety timing map.
11-26-2007, 07:11 PM
#92
I recommend to everyone to always change the KS and not bypass it. But if you truely know what you are doing with tuning your motor, then yes, you can bypass it. On the VE, you simply use a 470K ohm resistor in the female side of the KS harness connector. I don't know how to bypass the KS on any other car. Search around, maybe someone has done it with your motor.
11-26-2007, 08:26 PM
#93
On an opposing side note, when I race at the track, I unplug the KS and stick in a resistor in order to bypass it. I just want to make sure the KS has nothing to do with pulling back timing. I want to be responsible for all timing changes.
When I spray nitrous, I can always alter my base timing since I have a VE. Or I can choose between two ECU programs, one is stock, and one is meant for a 93 octane street tune. So when I want to spray nitrous on the street, I just flip back to the stock program first.
One more thing, I am still using the stock battery. I just weighed it in at just over 40 lbs! I recently found a thread where Jime hacked into a jumper box and used that battery. Now that's a cheap and easy way to have a lightweight battery! Thanks! Along with removing my battery tray, I will be able to shave another 35 lbs from my car!
When I spray nitrous, I can always alter my base timing since I have a VE. Or I can choose between two ECU programs, one is stock, and one is meant for a 93 octane street tune. So when I want to spray nitrous on the street, I just flip back to the stock program first.
One more thing, I am still using the stock battery. I just weighed it in at just over 40 lbs! I recently found a thread where Jime hacked into a jumper box and used that battery.
Now that's a cheap and easy way to have a lightweight battery! Thanks! Along with removing my battery tray, I will be able to shave another 35 lbs from my car!Last edited by t6378tp; 11-26-2007 at 08:33 PM.
11-26-2007, 08:30 PM
#94
On an opposing side note, when I race at the track, I unplug the KS and stick in a resistor in order to bypass it. I just want to make sure the KS has nothing to do with pulling back timing. I want to be responsible for all timing changes.
When I spray nitrous, I can always alter my base timing since I have a VE. Or I can choose between two ECU programs, one is stock, and one is meant for a 93 octane street tune. So when I want to spray nitrous on the street, I just flip back to the stock program first.
One more thing, I am still using the stock battery. I just weighed it in at just over 40 lbs! I recently found a thread where Jime hacked into a jumper box and used that battery. Now that's a cheap and easy way to have a lightweight battery! Thanks! Along with removing my battery tray, I will be able to shave another 35 lbs from my car!
When I spray nitrous, I can always alter my base timing since I have a VE. Or I can choose between two ECU programs, one is stock, and one is meant for a 93 octane street tune. So when I want to spray nitrous on the street, I just flip back to the stock program first.
One more thing, I am still using the stock battery. I just weighed it in at just over 40 lbs! I recently found a thread where Jime hacked into a jumper box and used that battery.
Now that's a cheap and easy way to have a lightweight battery! Thanks! Along with removing my battery tray, I will be able to shave another 35 lbs from my car!
11-27-2007, 07:06 AM
#95
I do have the ks operational while tuning etc but when I have it tuned I set it to not do anything but alarm me when it knocks. Of course I only do this while racing, no sense trying to break something.
Finally after 4 years of trying to tune a Maxima I can get it to do what I want vs what it wants. Granted sometimes the changes the computer make are small but when you are racing within thousands of a second you want NO changes. I can handle the weather changes with my weather station and et software so I can finally race against the carburated v8's and be competitive.
11-27-2007, 07:20 AM
#96
I'm using the plastic Summit Racing seat just like Jime. Why try to reinvent the wheel when Jim has already done it for us? It's the cheapest way to lighten the driver's seat.
Exactly! I have always tried to simplify things with my VE in order to make it more consistant. If you could completely eliminate the ECU, you would, but you need a way to still run the injectors and MAFS. There's really only one good way to get rid of the ECU and that's to put a carb on your VQ. 
So it's the EU that taps into the KS signal and knows when it hears knock? Is that the way it works or do you have an auxiliary knock sensor somewhere?
That feature would be very beneficial to me. Right now, I make a run, pull a couple plugs and look for detonation on the insulator. Then if I have time, I'll slowly advance timing until I see detonation, then back off a couple degrees and I'm fine. I still haven't finished tuning it b/c I'm constantly changing nitrous shots, which involves a completely different tune everytime.
But once I have the nitrous setup I feel will net me 11s in the 1/4 mile, then I'll spend some time on the dyno getting the timing exactly where I want it. I am also probably going to start running 100 octane unleaded and tune with that. The 110 leaded I'm using I think is really messing with my stock narrowband o2 sensor and it's only 20K miles old.
It's the cheapest way to lighten the driver's seat.Finally, someone who thinks like i do. I don't want the computer screwing with me. Now I have fixed timing, fixed a/f and I can control how much the timing is pulled at all rpm levels or just leave it alone. Amazing it takes so much technology to prevent the computer from doing stuff.
I do have the ks operational while tuning etc but when I have it tuned I set it to not do anything but alarm me when it knocks. Of course I only do this while racing, no sense trying to break something.
Finally after 4 years of trying to tune a Maxima I can get it to do what I want vs what it wants. Granted sometimes the changes the computer make are small but when you are racing within thousands of a second you want NO changes. I can handle the weather changes with my weather station and et software so I can finally race against the carburated v8's and be competitive.
I do have the ks operational while tuning etc but when I have it tuned I set it to not do anything but alarm me when it knocks. Of course I only do this while racing, no sense trying to break something.
Finally after 4 years of trying to tune a Maxima I can get it to do what I want vs what it wants. Granted sometimes the changes the computer make are small but when you are racing within thousands of a second you want NO changes. I can handle the weather changes with my weather station and et software so I can finally race against the carburated v8's and be competitive.
So it's the EU that taps into the KS signal and knows when it hears knock? Is that the way it works or do you have an auxiliary knock sensor somewhere?
That feature would be very beneficial to me. Right now, I make a run, pull a couple plugs and look for detonation on the insulator. Then if I have time, I'll slowly advance timing until I see detonation, then back off a couple degrees and I'm fine. I still haven't finished tuning it b/c I'm constantly changing nitrous shots, which involves a completely different tune everytime.
But once I have the nitrous setup I feel will net me 11s in the 1/4 mile, then I'll spend some time on the dyno getting the timing exactly where I want it. I am also probably going to start running 100 octane unleaded and tune with that. The 110 leaded I'm using I think is really messing with my stock narrowband o2 sensor and it's only 20K miles old.
11-27-2007, 07:26 AM
#97
One more thing that I'm thinking about doing. That is balancing the car. I need to somehow find somebody that has 4 scales so I can know my weight. Then if one corner of the car needs more weight, I can move the weight over to that side or jack up the opposing corner of the car to put more weight over the tire that needs it.
I've read it really makes a difference. And I can always get an alignment done with my slicks on and a jack under my front end that will raise it up slightly, mimicing a drag strip launch. This FWD launching thing can get pretty technical.
I'm reading of CRXs doing 1.5s without wheelie bars! They probably weigh less than 1500 lbs, but that's still impressive. Most only have drag coilovers. Some say locking the front end down helps and some say it hurts. It really depends what setup you're running.
I've read it really makes a difference. And I can always get an alignment done with my slicks on and a jack under my front end that will raise it up slightly, mimicing a drag strip launch. This FWD launching thing can get pretty technical.
I'm reading of CRXs doing 1.5s without wheelie bars! They probably weigh less than 1500 lbs, but that's still impressive. Most only have drag coilovers. Some say locking the front end down helps and some say it hurts. It really depends what setup you're running.
11-27-2007, 07:35 AM
#98
Exactly! I have always tried to simplify things with my VE in order to make it more consistant. If you could completely eliminate the ECU, you would, but you need a way to still run the injectors and MAFS. There's really only one good way to get rid of the ECU and that's to put a carb on your VQ.
So it's the EU that taps into the KS signal and knows when it hears knock? Is that the way it works or do you have an auxiliary knock sensor somewhere?
That feature would be very beneficial to me. Right now, I make a run, pull a couple plugs and look for detonation on the insulator. Then if I have time, I'll slowly advance timing until I see detonation, then back off a couple degrees and I'm fine. I still haven't finished tuning it b/c I'm constantly changing nitrous shots, which involves a completely different tune everytime.
But once I have the nitrous setup I feel will net me 11s in the 1/4 mile, then I'll spend some time on the dyno getting the timing exactly where I want it. I am also probably going to start running 100 octane unleaded and tune with that. The 110 leaded I'm using I think is really messing with my stock narrowband o2 sensor and it's only 20K miles old.
So it's the EU that taps into the KS signal and knows when it hears knock? Is that the way it works or do you have an auxiliary knock sensor somewhere?
That feature would be very beneficial to me. Right now, I make a run, pull a couple plugs and look for detonation on the insulator. Then if I have time, I'll slowly advance timing until I see detonation, then back off a couple degrees and I'm fine. I still haven't finished tuning it b/c I'm constantly changing nitrous shots, which involves a completely different tune everytime.
But once I have the nitrous setup I feel will net me 11s in the 1/4 mile, then I'll spend some time on the dyno getting the timing exactly where I want it. I am also probably going to start running 100 octane unleaded and tune with that. The 110 leaded I'm using I think is really messing with my stock narrowband o2 sensor and it's only 20K miles old.
However I don't think it will work with anything less than an 02 ECU. Even then I had to hardwire, its plugnplay with the 04 and up.
Here is a bit of an example of what it will do. I haven't decided which of these programs is the best so I bought both.
http://mpsav.com/MPSUTECLogger/MPS_U...#bookLogMapper
http://www.jeffsoftware.com/software.php?product=UTI
PS I have thought about doing the balancing thing but need a scale and I really haven't had any traction problems, maybe next year.
Last edited by Jime; 11-27-2007 at 07:47 AM.
11-27-2007, 07:45 AM
#99
I am running the UTEC now which does standalone timing and a/f. It has a knock feature built in and you can program how many degrees of timing will be pulled with x counts of knock at 250 rpm intervals to redline. Of course knock is more prone at higher rpm levels so the threshold has to be increased as you approach redline.
However I don't think it will work with anything less than an 02 ECU. Even then I had to hardwire, its plugnplay with the 04 and up.
Here is a bit of an example of what it will do. I haven't decided which of these programs is the best so I bought both.
http://mpsav.com/MPSUTECLogger/MPS_U...#bookLogMapper
http://www.jeffsoftware.com/software.php?product=UTI
However I don't think it will work with anything less than an 02 ECU. Even then I had to hardwire, its plugnplay with the 04 and up.
Here is a bit of an example of what it will do. I haven't decided which of these programs is the best so I bought both.
http://mpsav.com/MPSUTECLogger/MPS_U...#bookLogMapper
http://www.jeffsoftware.com/software.php?product=UTI
11-27-2007, 07:56 AM
#100
Yes stock knock signal and it even records how many knock counts and at what rpm so you know where to tune. Sometimes its better to just increase fuel a bit vs reducing timing, just depends on how much knock you are getting and what your fuel and timing levels are. I always try and tune to keep the fuel and timing levels as even as I can vs jumping up and down.
11-27-2007, 08:01 AM
#101
Yes stock knock signal and it even records how many knock counts and at what rpm so you know where to tune. Sometimes its better to just increase fuel a bit vs reducing timing, just depends on how much knock you are getting and what your fuel and timing levels are. I always try and tune to keep the fuel and timing levels as even as I can vs jumping up and down.
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