It is the newest version of the FWD IM (the SSV), and with port matching I expect somewhere in the 10-15hp range throughout the powerband, and probably 20-30+ at redline where the stock IM drops off hard.

I'd expect on a F/I car that you would not notice the lower IM missmatch too much since forced air flows so much differently. If the SFR manifold actually does match the ports to our stock lower IM, then I'd go that route to avoid the need for port matching.

 

Yea, I believe I will get the SFR version, get it tuned, then posts numbers. I should be somewhere around 425-430 whp. Hoping my torque doesn`t increase by 25-30, I would like it to stay where its at 412. I would be interested to know what numbers you dyno out of the SSV. Do you know what you are now, before and after. I know you said that you were doing more than just the SSV.

 

Before and after looks like this:

107.5 trap on street tires.
3330 raceweight
0ish DA
SRI with spectra filter
vias delete stock IM
headers + open Y-pipe
6700 redline
25-27 degrees of timing at WOT

Next track day it will be like this:

around 3290 race weight
SRI with velocity stack and AEM dry flow
kinetix with port matched LIM (long as it comes in the mail this week)
headers + open Y-pipe
7200 redline
27-33 degrees of timing at WOT
Power steering belt removed

Should I have the same DA and see good gains from the kinetix, I'd like to see a 109ish trap.

 

Good luck with that 109 mph.

 

Ever take your car to a track? You'd probably trap 115-120 were you to get traction.

 

Yea, I went several times and my best mph is 116. And yea out of the gate, well lets say it sucks. Spun all of first and second. Need slicks, drs won`t do it.

 

I`m also looking into the AMS 500. So I can launch at a lower (maybe none) boost in first, then shift and get all of the boost in second. That should help with the launch. I tried starting out slow=fail. I tried starting at 2500 rpm falls on its face then spins after 3500 rpm=fail. I tried shifting quick into second=fail. I know I need slicks but I`m telling you, I think its more than just slicks. I need to get ride of some boost out of the gate.

 

Yeah 26x10.5 slicks would probably be perfect for your application. I fully hooked on a 75 shot trapping nearly 113 mph with 24.5x8 slicks, and that was probably 350ish whp.

 

with 10.5" width slicks on a prepped track, you should be able to launch at 5k+ RPMs and would probably even gain by spraying nitrous to spool earlier in first.

A WOT box so you can no lift shift and maintain boost would probably gain you 4-5 MPH and some ET, as well. Most of them have the added feature of being able to build some boost on the starting line with the 2-step.

 

Ok newb. question for you. What rim is that (26x10.5). 16" or 17"?

 

What company makes a good WOT box.

 

Mickey Thompson makes a 26x10.5x16 slick you could put on some lightweight 16x8" wheels. Or you can do like I did and shave your calipers so you can run 26x10.5x15" slicks!

These guys make a pretty well featured WOT box http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox

 

Well I need at least a 17" rim to fit around the BBK. It keeps getting better doesn`t it.

 

Hmm I know MT and hoosier make some 17" slicks, but you won't get the traction you would on a 15" slick due to sidewall.

 

15" ftw!

 

Yea I know what your saying. I ran into this problem with the drs. Thats why I was saying about dumping off the boost at the launch.

Thanks for all the info. Now I have something to reseach.lol I really like the WOT box. Sounds like a very good idea.

 

A cool side effect of the WOT box is that you will throw flames while 2-stepping and during no lift shifts. Some of them also have the option to use it for a rev limiter too, and an ignition cut rev limiter is better for the engine than fuel cut.

 

15's are FTW

 

Well my new LIM came in this morning, so I spent the day (yes, entire day... ugh) port matching the new LIM and my spacers to the Kinetix ports. I must say it came out GREAT!!! I was really worried about doing this myself since I've never done anything like it before, but after reading some online tutorials, it was pretty easy.

I first drilled alignment holes with everything assembled to get a perfect match. After that, I pulled everything apart and marked how much material needed to be taken off the spacer to match the Kinetix ports. On the spacer, I used a 120 grit sanding wheel to remove material. Once I got it perfectly matching the Kinetix ports, I smoothed and worked with the gradient/radius where it meets the LIM. Then, (again using alignment holes) I matched up my ported spacer to the LIM, and marked how much material needed to be taken off. Using a carbide cutting bit, I went about 1" into the runners where I took off the most material so it would be a smooth transition to the smaller diameter. I cleaned and smoothed that up with another 120 grit sanding wheel, and viola! finished!

If I'd had a flexible extention for the dremel, it would have been nice to clean up the casting beads in the LIM, but I don't... Maybe next time. If I'm in there porting again, it'll be in conjunction with some ported heads.

If I remember, I'll take a couple of pics before I reassemble everything. I'm letting the RTV dry on all the gasket surfaces now so I don't end up with beads inside. When I took it apart today, there were HUGE beads on the inside because I had to overdo the RTV to make up for having a stripped bolt on my old LIM, and it was the only way I could get it to seal (ghetto, i know...).

 

Well got it all installed. Aside from a complication with one of the fuel rail bolt holes in the LIM, it all went well.

Initial impression upon trying it out is a noticeable increase in throttle responsiveness below WOT, and that I can't seem to keep traction in 1st anymore. I'll blame that on it being a little colder than earlier today when I got on it. I noticed a little dip around 5k-5100 but I'm guessing I was running lean. I didn't datalog, just went out and tried it. Guess I'll see what happens with a better tune.

 

Very interesting, and sounds like you did a very good job. Congrats!! So next, its to the tune shop. Interested to see how much your whp increases.

Again, good job. I made my mind up and I will be going with the one from SFR ordering it Monday.

And yea post some pics.

 

I forgot to take pics before/after the porting. Oh well, lol.

I did go out and tune for it today, and had to add a ton of fuel from around 3500 right up to redline.

I think I am now maxing my injectors out around 7000 because even adding 20-30% fuel at 7100-7200, it leans out to low 13s (when I'm trying to get high 12s) and up to mid 13s just as it touches 7200.

Although that's annoying b/c I'm going to need injectors before I add more power, it gives me the impression that the Kinetix needs port matching (since it's mismatched to stock) in order to gain power.

 

a bad side affect to ignition cut instead of fuel cut is that the fuel accumulates on your cats (if you have any) and then you run the risk of blowing them up. I know this because I am 3 for 3 on exploded cats (both precats and the main cat)

 

Oh.. yeah I would never run anything but a straight exhaust (straight-through designed resonators and mufflers are ok) in that situation.

 

With a 17" wheel you are very limited on the tires that you can run.
You could run a 17" MT Bias ply ET Street. The size is a 26x11.5-17.

 

Got a vid of my 13.010



And a video of me vs the cobalt on street tires (my street tire PB 13.2)

 

12s are going to happen this weekend!

 

Yeah man I think I'd go 12s on the 5-6 degrees extra timing and 500 extra RPMs on rev limiter alone. Much less adding in the Kinetix (assuming gains, which i'm 95% sure of) and probably pulling the PS belt.