Rotten Egg....smell
02-22-2003, 06:41 AM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 427
Rotten Egg....smell
After driving on the highway (or if I open the sunroof on the highway) I get a powerful rotten egg smell. Any idea what's causing this? The car is an '88 and I use 91 octane. Could it be the brand of gas?
02-22-2003, 08:03 AM
#2
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Posts: n/a
Most likely it's your catalytic converter. There's some stuff you can put in your gas that'll make it go away.
I'm not sure exactly what causes it to happen, but in any case, don't run 91 octane gas unless you've advanced your ignition timing, especially with gas prices as high as they are. Higher octane gas is only for cars that knock or ping on lower octane gas, usually for high performance engines that have high compression ratios. There are no other special benefits or additives from running 91 versus 87, in all other respects they're exactly the same.
-C-
I'm not sure exactly what causes it to happen, but in any case, don't run 91 octane gas unless you've advanced your ignition timing, especially with gas prices as high as they are. Higher octane gas is only for cars that knock or ping on lower octane gas, usually for high performance engines that have high compression ratios. There are no other special benefits or additives from running 91 versus 87, in all other respects they're exactly the same.
-C-
02-22-2003, 09:22 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 427
Originally posted by Charles Bisel
Most likely it's your catalytic converter. There's some stuff you can put in your gas that'll make it go away.
I'm not sure exactly what causes it to happen, but in any case, don't run 91 octane gas unless you've advanced your ignition timing, especially with gas prices as high as they are. Higher octane gas is only for cars that knock or ping on lower octane gas, usually for high performance engines that have high compression ratios. There are no other special benefits or additives from running 91 versus 87, in all other respects they're exactly the same.
-C-
Most likely it's your catalytic converter. There's some stuff you can put in your gas that'll make it go away.
I'm not sure exactly what causes it to happen, but in any case, don't run 91 octane gas unless you've advanced your ignition timing, especially with gas prices as high as they are. Higher octane gas is only for cars that knock or ping on lower octane gas, usually for high performance engines that have high compression ratios. There are no other special benefits or additives from running 91 versus 87, in all other respects they're exactly the same.
-C-
02-22-2003, 02:01 PM
#4
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Posts: n/a
The manual says to use 91 RON (87 AKI). The AKI number is the one used at the fuel pumps, the RON number is a higher number. There is also a lower number than the AKI which is called the MON.
Basically, the way they come up with the octane rating at the fuel pump is by taking the (RON + MON) / 2. You should see it posted somewhere at the pump, it'll probably say 'Fuel Octane Rating is determined by the (R+M)/2 method'. That's the AKI number, the number that you should be going by, which for our cars is 87.
I know the manual is kind of confusing, listing both the RON and AKI numbers, but it's the AKI number that is used at the pumps, not the RON.
-C-
Basically, the way they come up with the octane rating at the fuel pump is by taking the (RON + MON) / 2. You should see it posted somewhere at the pump, it'll probably say 'Fuel Octane Rating is determined by the (R+M)/2 method'. That's the AKI number, the number that you should be going by, which for our cars is 87.
I know the manual is kind of confusing, listing both the RON and AKI numbers, but it's the AKI number that is used at the pumps, not the RON.
-C-
02-22-2003, 03:22 PM
#5
Originally posted by Charles Bisel
The manual says to use 91 RON (87 AKI). The AKI number is the one used at the fuel pumps, the RON number is a higher number. There is also a lower number than the AKI which is called the MON.
Basically, the way they come up with the octane rating at the fuel pump is by taking the (RON + MON) / 2. You should see it posted somewhere at the pump, it'll probably say 'Fuel Octane Rating is determined by the (R+M)/2 method'. That's the AKI number, the number that you should be going by, which for our cars is 87.
I know the manual is kind of confusing, listing both the RON and AKI numbers, but it's the AKI number that is used at the pumps, not the RON.
-C-
The manual says to use 91 RON (87 AKI). The AKI number is the one used at the fuel pumps, the RON number is a higher number. There is also a lower number than the AKI which is called the MON.
Basically, the way they come up with the octane rating at the fuel pump is by taking the (RON + MON) / 2. You should see it posted somewhere at the pump, it'll probably say 'Fuel Octane Rating is determined by the (R+M)/2 method'. That's the AKI number, the number that you should be going by, which for our cars is 87.
I know the manual is kind of confusing, listing both the RON and AKI numbers, but it's the AKI number that is used at the pumps, not the RON.
-C-
S
02-22-2003, 06:17 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 427
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Charles Bisel
The manual says to use 91 RON (87 AKI). The AKI number is the one used at the fuel pumps, the RON number is a higher number. There is also a lower number than the AKI which is called the MON.
Basically, the way they come up with the octane rating at the fuel pump is by taking the (RON + MON) / 2. You should see it posted somewhere at the pump, it'll probably say 'Fuel Octane Rating is determined by the (R+M)/2 method'. That's the AKI number, the number that you should be going by, which for our cars is 87.
I know the manual is kind of confusing, listing both the RON and AKI numbers, but it's the AKI number that is used at the pumps, not the RON.
-C- [/QUOTE
Great, thanks for the info. I've always been confused by that. Yes, I've noticed the r+m/2 stickers on the pump. You've just saved me about $6 per fill up.
Thanks
The manual says to use 91 RON (87 AKI). The AKI number is the one used at the fuel pumps, the RON number is a higher number. There is also a lower number than the AKI which is called the MON.
Basically, the way they come up with the octane rating at the fuel pump is by taking the (RON + MON) / 2. You should see it posted somewhere at the pump, it'll probably say 'Fuel Octane Rating is determined by the (R+M)/2 method'. That's the AKI number, the number that you should be going by, which for our cars is 87.
I know the manual is kind of confusing, listing both the RON and AKI numbers, but it's the AKI number that is used at the pumps, not the RON.
-C- [/QUOTE
Great, thanks for the info. I've always been confused by that. Yes, I've noticed the r+m/2 stickers on the pump. You've just saved me about $6 per fill up.
Thanks
02-22-2003, 06:51 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
No problem, glad I can be of help.
As for the rotten egg smell, I looked into it on the net. Apparently it is caused from the engine running too rich. It could be that you are in need of a tune up or you may have some other issue like a bad sensor or something. Also, if your air regulator is bad (which pretty much all of ours is), it can cause your engine to run rich when it first starts up. Over time, this may contribute to why the cat converter is smelling like rotten eggs.
I'd say use that additive that gets rid of the smell, then try and figure out what could be causing it to happen. If you don't fix the main cause of the problem, you may end up having to replace your catalytic converter.
-C-
As for the rotten egg smell, I looked into it on the net. Apparently it is caused from the engine running too rich. It could be that you are in need of a tune up or you may have some other issue like a bad sensor or something. Also, if your air regulator is bad (which pretty much all of ours is), it can cause your engine to run rich when it first starts up. Over time, this may contribute to why the cat converter is smelling like rotten eggs.
I'd say use that additive that gets rid of the smell, then try and figure out what could be causing it to happen. If you don't fix the main cause of the problem, you may end up having to replace your catalytic converter.
-C-
02-22-2003, 09:31 PM
#9
Rotten Egg Smell............
It is your battery, partner. Trust me, 11 years as a turret mechanic on a Bradley Fighting Vehicle, I will never forget that smell.......
Check your output voltage first, just to be on the safe side, I don't want you to put in a new battery and it overcharges it again.....
If you have a maintence-free battery, replace it. No sense trying to fill it up with water. If it is one of the regular ones, check to see if you have enough water in the cells, no water equals cooking cells.
If there was water in the cell, then your battery has had it, the alkaline has been worn to nothing and it simply no good to re-fill them either.
The reason I asked you to check the altenator output voltage first cause they do have a tendency to overcharge, which in this case, something has blown inside your altenator. I believe there is a way to regulate the output power of the altenators, but I don't know where.... I know where they are only in military vehicles.
Check your output voltage first, just to be on the safe side, I don't want you to put in a new battery and it overcharges it again.....
If you have a maintence-free battery, replace it. No sense trying to fill it up with water. If it is one of the regular ones, check to see if you have enough water in the cells, no water equals cooking cells.
If there was water in the cell, then your battery has had it, the alkaline has been worn to nothing and it simply no good to re-fill them either.
The reason I asked you to check the altenator output voltage first cause they do have a tendency to overcharge, which in this case, something has blown inside your altenator. I believe there is a way to regulate the output power of the altenators, but I don't know where.... I know where they are only in military vehicles.
02-22-2003, 11:21 PM
#10
Re: Rotten Egg Smell............
Originally posted by GundamWZero
It is your battery, partner. Trust me, 11 years as a turret mechanic on a Bradley Fighting Vehicle, I will never forget that smell.......
Check your output voltage first, just to be on the safe side, I don't want you to put in a new battery and it overcharges it again.....
If you have a maintence-free battery, replace it. No sense trying to fill it up with water. If it is one of the regular ones, check to see if you have enough water in the cells, no water equals cooking cells.
If there was water in the cell, then your battery has had it, the alkaline has been worn to nothing and it simply no good to re-fill them either.
The reason I asked you to check the altenator output voltage first cause they do have a tendency to overcharge, which in this case, something has blown inside your altenator. I believe there is a way to regulate the output power of the altenators, but I don't know where.... I know where they are only in military vehicles.
It is your battery, partner. Trust me, 11 years as a turret mechanic on a Bradley Fighting Vehicle, I will never forget that smell.......
Check your output voltage first, just to be on the safe side, I don't want you to put in a new battery and it overcharges it again.....
If you have a maintence-free battery, replace it. No sense trying to fill it up with water. If it is one of the regular ones, check to see if you have enough water in the cells, no water equals cooking cells.
If there was water in the cell, then your battery has had it, the alkaline has been worn to nothing and it simply no good to re-fill them either.
The reason I asked you to check the altenator output voltage first cause they do have a tendency to overcharge, which in this case, something has blown inside your altenator. I believe there is a way to regulate the output power of the altenators, but I don't know where.... I know where they are only in military vehicles.
S
02-23-2003, 06:00 AM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 427
Re: Rotten Egg Smell............
Originally posted by GundamWZero
It is your battery, partner. Trust me, 11 years as a turret mechanic on a Bradley Fighting Vehicle, I will never forget that smell.......
Check your output voltage first, just to be on the safe side, I don't want you to put in a new battery and it overcharges it again.....
If you have a maintence-free battery, replace it. No sense trying to fill it up with water. If it is one of the regular ones, check to see if you have enough water in the cells, no water equals cooking cells.
If there was water in the cell, then your battery has had it, the alkaline has been worn to nothing and it simply no good to re-fill them either.
The reason I asked you to check the altenator output voltage first cause they do have a tendency to overcharge, which in this case, something has blown inside your altenator. I believe there is a way to regulate the output power of the altenators, but I don't know where.... I know where they are only in military vehicles.
It is your battery, partner. Trust me, 11 years as a turret mechanic on a Bradley Fighting Vehicle, I will never forget that smell.......
Check your output voltage first, just to be on the safe side, I don't want you to put in a new battery and it overcharges it again.....
If you have a maintence-free battery, replace it. No sense trying to fill it up with water. If it is one of the regular ones, check to see if you have enough water in the cells, no water equals cooking cells.
If there was water in the cell, then your battery has had it, the alkaline has been worn to nothing and it simply no good to re-fill them either.
The reason I asked you to check the altenator output voltage first cause they do have a tendency to overcharge, which in this case, something has blown inside your altenator. I believe there is a way to regulate the output power of the altenators, but I don't know where.... I know where they are only in military vehicles.
02-23-2003, 07:19 PM
#13
Originally posted by Charles Bisel
Good thing I gave you advice, otherwise you'd be replacing your battery! And I'm not even a mechanic, I'm an IT professional! 
-C-
Good thing I gave you advice, otherwise you'd be replacing your battery! And I'm not even a mechanic, I'm an IT professional! -C-
S
02-24-2003, 07:12 AM
#14
Gee, how many of us work on our own cars, but also work in the computer industry?
I worked as a network admin in NC for the two years I was there, for a major commercial print shop. I am currently working for less than half the pay I made there, as an Internet Help Desk technician. Not fun. I'd rather have my old job back, with the pay that went with it. But I'm not moving 1500 miles back to NC, just to work for a company who is having financial difficulties, and it struggling to stay afloat.
I worked as a network admin in NC for the two years I was there, for a major commercial print shop. I am currently working for less than half the pay I made there, as an Internet Help Desk technician. Not fun. I'd rather have my old job back, with the pay that went with it. But I'm not moving 1500 miles back to NC, just to work for a company who is having financial difficulties, and it struggling to stay afloat.
02-24-2003, 07:45 AM
#15
Re: Rotten Egg....smell
Originally posted by rcy
After driving on the highway (or if I open the sunroof on the highway) I get a powerful rotten egg smell. Any idea what's causing this? The car is an '88 and I use 91 octane. Could it be the brand of gas?
After driving on the highway (or if I open the sunroof on the highway) I get a powerful rotten egg smell. Any idea what's causing this? The car is an '88 and I use 91 octane. Could it be the brand of gas?
Usually, in the case of our cars, I believe that the usage of too-high-an octane gas will basically burn up the cat, and this is what causes most of them to go out, while smelling like turned eggs.
First, add the additive, and get the cars running well under 87 octane (due to the timing being off on mine, it doesn't run well unless I feed it 89 - 91 ocxtane fuel, depending upon brand. It doesn't actaully ping or knock...but it runs almost like it's missing at idle, if I run lower grade fuel. I should get my timing and idle speed issues resolved within the next week or so.
I'm also rebuilding the entire power steering system in the car, sine my pressure line, pump and rack are all leaking, I'm fixing the whole damn thing.
02-26-2003, 12:00 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 94
Re: Re: Rotten Egg....smell
What did ya eat?
Maybe ya cut the cheese without knowing!
Just foolin' bro! Umm...I assume it maybe the fuel octane or oil. Cause I smell that on new cars!! FOr real, I be outside or inside peoples NEW cars and they either rev or put full power to their cars and then ya could smell that nasty azz smell.
Maybe ya cut the cheese without knowing!
Just foolin' bro! Umm...I assume it maybe the fuel octane or oil. Cause I smell that on new cars!! FOr real, I be outside or inside peoples NEW cars and they either rev or put full power to their cars and then ya could smell that nasty azz smell.
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