maximase86

iTrader: (24)

It appears the EFI relay is not getting power...as a consequence, the ECU isn't getting power. Grounds appear to test good. Anyone have a more detailed wiring diagram other then the FSM one to trace where the EFI relay gets it's power?

S

wylie-c

Hmmm, could be the fusible link between it and the battery. Too bad the FSM isn't very clear about where to find it.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Well I checked the ignition fusible link....and that appears to be fine. The car still cranks. If I take it out, the car stops cranking. I'm going to be very pissed if it was just a little hidden fusible link that has kept my car down for a freaking month....

S

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Solved the problem....and it was pretty simple.

My friend Ian came over to help me out today. Right as we popped the hood he's like "I bet when we open the hood it'll be a loose wire or something". As I got the hood open, I mentioned how I was unsure where the fusible link was for the battery. He pointed and says "Is that the one there with the burnt wire?" I look....and couple of seconds later replied "SON OF A *****!"

So the basically the fusible link for the EFI relay went bad. So basically you have 4 fusible links on the driver side fender, then you have 2 more fusible links directly on the positive terminal. Mine is hard to spot since it sat on the bottom part of the wire where you can't see it. The Nissan parts department wasn't open, we just cut the wire, and joined the good sections together with a buttconnector until I can get a new one. Also installed the 86 300zx ECU I got from Scott.. The car is a little peppier now.

We also did a compression test on my car. With 210k miles on the car...it was 195psi in every cylinder. Standard spec is 173psi, with a difference between cylinders no larger than 14psi, and minimum is 128psi. Anyone that dare says a VG isn't a good motor is full of ****. My car is over 18 years old....I've never had a major problem with the motor....ever. This is also tells me my car is ready for boost too.

S

wylie-c

WOOT! Good to hear it's alive again, don't you just hate it when it's such a simple thing, but it makes you scratch your head endlessly even though it's right there in front of you? Oh well, at least it was a simple fix. Now you just have to do that timing belt........hehe. I should do a compression test on mine too one of these days, just to see. If I had another car I would pull mine off the road for a turbo install, KALSC's pics don't make it seem like it would be too bad really. The only thing I don't quite understand is how you can mount the turbo on the existing crossover pipe. The only way I can see that working would be to disconnect the existing downpipe and block off the manifold, then weld in the flange for the turbo on the crossover and route the exhaust from there back into the downpipe. Actually, I guess that would work just fine, and the pipe run for the intake would stay nice and short. Hmmmmm......I could probably pull that off in a day or two.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Actually you'd use a 300zx turbo manifold for the front cylinders. That would have the place to mount the turbo....however it puts the turbo right where the engine mount is.....so there is fabrication to be done if you want to do that.

Also I took the car out on a good drive to stretch it's legs. Towards the evening I was getting some of the symptoms I got before my car died (where the engine would feel like it missed bad, or the motor suddenly cut off for a second or so. I'm going to pull codes tomorrow to see what happens. Also I've notice the car is runnig quite bit richer than anticipated with the 300zx ECU.....I mean rich enough that you can smell rotten eggs from the cat. Also it bogs down low at times. Looks like I got some things to figure out. Not sure if I want to drive my car to work yet until I work these bugs out.

S

wylie-c

I kind of figured a 300ZX ecu might be calibrated slightly different. The airflow meter from a z is quite a bit bigger diameter than ours. I tried one on my car, i figured the internal bore of it would better match with the 240 TB, but it basically just coughed and farted with it on there. I do wonder though, if it would have any gains if you used both the ecu and airflow together. It seems that the larger intake tubing diameter is the only major difference between intakes on a Z and a Max. ( assuming the intake muffler is gone, but that's always the first thing to get tossed anyway )

For the turbo, I know how the stock setup on a Z is plumbed, but I could of swore I remember KALSC talking about putting it on the crossover pipe.

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Do you still have that MAF? I might be interested in trying it out and seeing the results.

I also pulled codes for the 300zx ECU. It's throwing an ignition signal and fuel temp sensor code. Could explain why the car seems a bit boggy. I put the stock ECU back in and reran codes. It came up with code 44. So it appears there might be a slight pinout difference between the 300zx ECU and the stock ECU. Anyone else that has tried the 300zx ECU, have you gotten any codes? If so what kind.

I also think the bucking I'm getting is from my fix for the fusible link loosing power and getting it again. So I need to really get that replaced. I also found one of my engine mounts is bad again.....so I need to get that figured out.

S

wylie-c

I should have that thing kicking around somewhere, I'll let you know if I can find it. I remember you saying something about filling the mounts with urethane, I wonder if windshield urethane would work?

maximase86

iTrader: (24)

Someone has a write up somewhere. I'm definately going to give it a try.

S