RWD 2nd gen Maxima..
#3
Thread Starter
2nd Gen Boostinator
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From: San Diego, and all over it!
either a m30 or z31, but its gonna be with a j30 lsd diff
pics
cleaned out the interior for welding and cutting
removed gastank and all rear suspension components
the tunnel, looks like its gonna work but well see
as it sits now
pics
cleaned out the interior for welding and cutting
removed gastank and all rear suspension components
the tunnel, looks like its gonna work but well see
as it sits now
Last edited by Big_E-Dog; 01-19-2011 at 03:12 PM.
#6
so a R200? are you doing the build with junk yard parts? if so keep in mind a pathfinder (not sure about the newer ones but early 90s for sure) rear end is also a R200. So if you have one with a tow package laying around in your parts picking areas..........
#9
Thread Starter
2nd Gen Boostinator
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Posts: 1,990
From: San Diego, and all over it!
ppl said the same thing when i said i was gonna go twin turbo.
heres the plan, swap in a z31 turbo vg30et and tranny get the project up and running, then move ing on to bigger and better things, vg30dett.
i love a good challenge!
heres the plan, swap in a z31 turbo vg30et and tranny get the project up and running, then move ing on to bigger and better things, vg30dett.
i love a good challenge!
#10
lol i have no doubts you can do it, if you can TT a 2nd gen yourself im sure youre more than capable
when you were TT did you get into any magazines or anything?
when this things done take it to Japan on the drift circuit and haul ***
when you were TT did you get into any magazines or anything?
when this things done take it to Japan on the drift circuit and haul ***
#12
#16
nice long project you have ahead of yourself, but it will be great once everything is done. whenever I see you start one of these projects, it makes me want to start doing crazy stuff to my 2nd gen too.
#18
Thread Starter
2nd Gen Boostinator
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Posts: 1,990
From: San Diego, and all over it!
the turbo wasnt legal due to the rwd engine using the fwd transmission, they say that emissions are different with different transes.
so if i go rwd ima open it all up(engine choice wise), but keep it nissan,
thinking vg30et first
dett
then if i get some ***** and aint tired vh45
rear suspension: ima go for independent
#19
mang you need to come over here, no emissions hell you only need an initial inspection and after that, thats it and they dont care. most initial inspections are a joke too
consider a RB25/6 or no? more work because you have to move the firewall back and such to fit a I6 i suppose
consider a RB25/6 or no? more work because you have to move the firewall back and such to fit a I6 i suppose
#21
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2nd Gen Boostinator
iTrader: (14)
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Posts: 1,990
From: San Diego, and all over it!
ok had time to work on it yesterday, took off all of the front suspension except for the strut/spring combo, taking off the brake mastr cylinder, its leaking, and the brake lines, might have to redo them depending on if i can use some from a donor car. will post pics up later on today, just got off of work its 6:30 AM and im tired
#22
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2nd Gen Boostinator
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From: San Diego, and all over it!
updates!!
so i lifted the front and stripped it out.
then called up someone on craigslist, and got this for cheap!!!
240sx subframe!!
gonna rip it apart and stat with the "H" member and get it sized and weld up some brackets and start from there.
updating soon.
so i lifted the front and stripped it out.
then called up someone on craigslist, and got this for cheap!!!
240sx subframe!!
gonna rip it apart and stat with the "H" member and get it sized and weld up some brackets and start from there.
updating soon.
#27
Definitely have your work cut out for you. be sure to get the rear subframe aligned properly and make sure your heights front and rear are consistent with the 240's measurements. having it tilted forward or back will affect the anti-squat and anti-dive properties of the subframe.
also, do you have any ideas for the front end? You're going to have to move the steering rack because it's in the way of the transmission. I've thought about this for quite a while, and have decided it's probably best to grab a front crossmember, steering rack, and spindles off a 240SX or a 300ZX. Since you're using a 240SX rear subframe, might as well just continue gutting that car and steal the front suspension from it as well.
I've been waiting to do the exact same thing with my VE, but have been focusing on building my S14 and getting my national racing license. I have a S14 parts car and a Z32 rear subframe, and I'll get to the Maxima eventually. BUT.. I'm going to keep the VE in it. a VG30DE tranny bolts right up to the VE, so that makes it pretty easy.
Good luck!
also, do you have any ideas for the front end? You're going to have to move the steering rack because it's in the way of the transmission. I've thought about this for quite a while, and have decided it's probably best to grab a front crossmember, steering rack, and spindles off a 240SX or a 300ZX. Since you're using a 240SX rear subframe, might as well just continue gutting that car and steal the front suspension from it as well.
I've been waiting to do the exact same thing with my VE, but have been focusing on building my S14 and getting my national racing license. I have a S14 parts car and a Z32 rear subframe, and I'll get to the Maxima eventually. BUT.. I'm going to keep the VE in it. a VG30DE tranny bolts right up to the VE, so that makes it pretty easy.
Good luck!
#29
also, do you have any ideas for the front end? You're going to have to move the steering rack because it's in the way of the transmission. I've thought about this for quite a while, and have decided it's probably best to grab a front crossmember, steering rack, and spindles off a 240SX or a 300ZX. Since you're using a 240SX rear subframe, might as well just continue gutting that car and steal the front suspension from it as well.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#30
Thread Starter
2nd Gen Boostinator
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,990
From: San Diego, and all over it!
Definitely have your work cut out for you. be sure to get the rear subframe aligned properly and make sure your heights front and rear are consistent with the 240's measurements. having it tilted forward or back will affect the anti-squat and anti-dive properties of the subframe.
also, do you have any ideas for the front end? You're going to have to move the steering rack because it's in the way of the transmission. I've thought about this for quite a while, and have decided it's probably best to grab a front crossmember, steering rack, and spindles off a 240SX or a 300ZX. Since you're using a 240SX rear subframe, might as well just continue gutting that car and steal the front suspension from it as well.
I've been waiting to do the exact same thing with my VE, but have been focusing on building my S14 and getting my national racing license. I have a S14 parts car and a Z32 rear subframe, and I'll get to the Maxima eventually. BUT.. I'm going to keep the VE in it. a VG30DE tranny bolts right up to the VE, so that makes it pretty easy.
Good luck!
also, do you have any ideas for the front end? You're going to have to move the steering rack because it's in the way of the transmission. I've thought about this for quite a while, and have decided it's probably best to grab a front crossmember, steering rack, and spindles off a 240SX or a 300ZX. Since you're using a 240SX rear subframe, might as well just continue gutting that car and steal the front suspension from it as well.
I've been waiting to do the exact same thing with my VE, but have been focusing on building my S14 and getting my national racing license. I have a S14 parts car and a Z32 rear subframe, and I'll get to the Maxima eventually. BUT.. I'm going to keep the VE in it. a VG30DE tranny bolts right up to the VE, so that makes it pretty easy.
Good luck!
as for the subframe thats what im exactly gonna do, steal it from the 240sx.
just gonna need to get the engine and tranny from junkyard this wekend.
so far i mocked up the rear and cut out the spare tire insert for the 240 gastank.
this is gonna be *****in!!
post updated pics later
#31
Thread Starter
2nd Gen Boostinator
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,990
From: San Diego, and all over it!
ok heres the pics
the position it will most likely be at
and cleaned up the arms a bit
and the fitment with the tire tub removed
got my eyes on an 88 turbo motor and 5 speed tranny, gonna swoop it up this wekend
the position it will most likely be at
and cleaned up the arms a bit
and the fitment with the tire tub removed
got my eyes on an 88 turbo motor and 5 speed tranny, gonna swoop it up this wekend
#33
There will need to be more than that done if it's going to hold any serious power.
Before you start mounting that subframe there, you might want to make some measurements as far as ride height and wheelbase. given how the subframe sits in my S14, you might need to cut some chassis apart to raise the subframe some more so the car doens't sit like a 4x4. I'll try to take some measurements of my S14 tomorrow. Those will be close enough for what you're doing right now.
Also keep in mind the diff isn't centered under the car. it's about 1" off center to the right. I *think* the mounts in the subframe are aligned to the chassis respective of the car's center line, but be aware of that as well before moutning the subframe. you don't want to try to center the diff in the car by moving the subframe around.
Before you start mounting that subframe there, you might want to make some measurements as far as ride height and wheelbase. given how the subframe sits in my S14, you might need to cut some chassis apart to raise the subframe some more so the car doens't sit like a 4x4. I'll try to take some measurements of my S14 tomorrow. Those will be close enough for what you're doing right now.
Also keep in mind the diff isn't centered under the car. it's about 1" off center to the right. I *think* the mounts in the subframe are aligned to the chassis respective of the car's center line, but be aware of that as well before moutning the subframe. you don't want to try to center the diff in the car by moving the subframe around.
#34
Thread Starter
2nd Gen Boostinator
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,990
From: San Diego, and all over it!
There will need to be more than that done if it's going to hold any serious power.
Before you start mounting that subframe there, you might want to make some measurements as far as ride height and wheelbase. given how the subframe sits in my S14, you might need to cut some chassis apart to raise the subframe some more so the car doens't sit like a 4x4. I'll try to take some measurements of my S14 tomorrow. Those will be close enough for what you're doing right now.
Also keep in mind the diff isn't centered under the car. it's about 1" off center to the right. I *think* the mounts in the subframe are aligned to the chassis respective of the car's center line, but be aware of that as well before moutning the subframe. you don't want to try to center the diff in the car by moving the subframe around.
Before you start mounting that subframe there, you might want to make some measurements as far as ride height and wheelbase. given how the subframe sits in my S14, you might need to cut some chassis apart to raise the subframe some more so the car doens't sit like a 4x4. I'll try to take some measurements of my S14 tomorrow. Those will be close enough for what you're doing right now.
Also keep in mind the diff isn't centered under the car. it's about 1" off center to the right. I *think* the mounts in the subframe are aligned to the chassis respective of the car's center line, but be aware of that as well before moutning the subframe. you don't want to try to center the diff in the car by moving the subframe around.
yeah i noticed that the diff is off center so i cant go my the diff but by the frame itself, the front clange that ataches to the driveshaft is centered through the tunnel though going to go make brackets now hotugh.
#35
Thread Starter
2nd Gen Boostinator
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,990
From: San Diego, and all over it!
so i did some more fabbing today, removed the trunk floor almost completely, and got a bar and welded some tabs to it, now thw subframe is in the ideal position.
the bar is just mocked into place for now, gonna go to the hardware store to get washers and heavy duty bolts to hold it into place, gonna drill through the bar and mount it to the body 2 in the middle and 2 on each of the strut compartments, just need to notch out some of the rear frame a bit and reinforce it for the control arm bracket so i picked up some square stock gonna weld it in there.
then i can worry about welding in plates for the front of the subframe to bolt to.
then to start the front crossmember, should be easy, i mean a lot easier than mounting a rear subframe.
damn near done getting exciting!!!
the bar is just mocked into place for now, gonna go to the hardware store to get washers and heavy duty bolts to hold it into place, gonna drill through the bar and mount it to the body 2 in the middle and 2 on each of the strut compartments, just need to notch out some of the rear frame a bit and reinforce it for the control arm bracket so i picked up some square stock gonna weld it in there.
then i can worry about welding in plates for the front of the subframe to bolt to.
then to start the front crossmember, should be easy, i mean a lot easier than mounting a rear subframe.
damn near done getting exciting!!!