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IACV replacement

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Old Jan 8, 2003 | 02:57 PM
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IACV replacement

Anybody replace there's I clean mine and it smooths my idle out for about 2 days then i get that idle drop that causes stalling crap again. I've cleaned it about 10 times
Old Jan 8, 2003 | 04:59 PM
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Re: IACV replacement

Originally posted by rhard49
Anybody replace there's I clean mine and it smooths my idle out for about 2 days then i get that idle drop that causes stalling crap again. I've cleaned it about 10 times
You can remove it, and do a more thorough job of cleaning all the little passages out. I just reccomend getting the gasket before hand, since no one stocks it.
Old Feb 26, 2003 | 08:32 PM
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My mechanic says that when he tested mine to make the motor move the actuator, it did nothing. Was this the case for yours? In other words, is there still hope for mine?
Old Feb 26, 2003 | 08:57 PM
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Its not really an actuator, The case is just a coil that gets a pulsed signal from the ecu, this signal turns on/off a magnetic field that pulls the piston in/out, it is very important that the little spring is put back in before the piston. The coil is easy to check with a ohm meter (I dont know the value for it right now) but it should read something otherwise its bad. Also the piston should be cleaned with solvent (not sand paper) and remove all the carbon build up, this carbon will prevent the piston from moving in/out smoothly or prevent it from moving at all!!.


There is a good chance that your mechanic doesnt know what to look for. When the coil is given power you cannot hear or really see anything, the only thing that could be seen is whether or not the piston moved in or out, and that depended on the polarity that he chose when he gave it power. Also the magnetic field gap is very small, so if the piston where too far off from where it should be then nothing would happen. The IACV really cannot go bad, only if the coil inside shorted out (very unlikely).
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 06:08 AM
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So I should pull it off and check it out versus buy a new one "off the bat" for $172.84.
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 06:30 AM
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Read the earlier post and get the gasket beforehand.
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 09:50 AM
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Well like I said you should first see if the coil is okay, if not then get the new one. The price that you quoted seems very low, are you sure its for the whole IACV or is it just the solenoid? It should cost #300-$500, I quoted it a while back.
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 11:15 AM
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Dealer Price.
Originally posted by eric93SE
Well like I said you should first see if the coil is okay, if not then get the new one. The price that you quoted seems very low, are you sure its for the whole IACV or is it just the solenoid? It should cost #300-$500, I quoted it a while back.
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 02:02 PM
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Originally posted by eric93SE
it is very important that the little spring is put back in before the piston.
little spring? just by coincidink ive got my car aprt to fix the high idle ive got in neutral and in park, and when i took it apart, there was no spring, the piston just moved back and forth as its wants 2...of course, maybe thats why my car doesnt idle right....

btw, the fsm says the resistance should b 10 ohms for the VE
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 02:49 PM
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Originally posted by Maximajism94se




btw, the fsm says the resistance should b 10 ohms for the VE
Haynes says 30 but doesn't specify.
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 03:14 PM
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Originally posted by Jaybird180

Haynes says 30 but doesn't specify.
the vg i guess has a very different setup because the fsm gives a lot of steps, etc, but resistance for the AAC valve on the VE is 10 ohms (mine was exactly 10), for the VG is gives a series of steps to do, and then resistance between the consecutive terminals should be between 27-40 ohms
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 06:44 PM
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Originally posted by Maximajism94se


the vg i guess has a very different setup because the fsm gives a lot of steps, etc, but resistance for the AAC valve on the VE is 10 ohms (mine was exactly 10), for the VG is gives a series of steps to do, and then resistance between the consecutive terminals should be between 27-40 ohms

With your engine idleing high in N and P, That could also be the TPS not adjusted properly. There is a switch in the TPS called the closed throttle position switch. With your foot off the gas the switch should be triggered, this tell the ecu to give less gas. I'm pretty sure that if you rotate the tps clockwise this will trip the switch, Turn it very slowly until the idle stops racing and comes down to normal.

Note that this is just another cause for the high idle problem, it could still be your IACV sticking inside where the LARGE spring is (not the one inside the solenoid).

With your issue involving the missing spring. When I took mine apart the spring quickly jumped out and I spent 20min trying to locate it. The spring must be in there otherwise the IACV will not function and I think the engine will want to stall out.
Old Feb 27, 2003 | 07:38 PM
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hmmmm...well, w/o any pics im not really sure what we are both talking about, i just got my fsm on cd, its weird, and there arent a lotta pics so the parts of the iacv im not really sure about...at any rate, im guessing that the throttle position switch (as u said) is dead, because like u said, when i move it the idle should change, however, mine doesnt, and it hasnt function properly for some time...yet the car will shift different when it is adjusted so maybe i just need to take that apart and clean out the electrical connections, not 2 mention that its held in by a tie b/c i lost one screw and broke the other lol
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