I just finished installing my ASP Racing underdrive pulley (UDP) on my 93SE. It went pretty smoothly and cars seems to rev faster and have a little more low end power.

pictures and how-to at:
http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetrain/udp/udp.shtml

also, that has info on how to change your drive belts (power steering belt, alternator, and air conditioning) since you have to do that in order to get the pulley off

it's written for my VE 5spd, but its pretty similar for autos or VGs

:attention

 

Nice write up Craig. The pictures look great too.

 

another nice write-up by Mr. Craig B.......

 

Craig = GOD

ha at least i know im not gonna panic now when i go to install this..

 

actually, I "borrowed" the black-and-white pictures from Chiltons online
the color ones are mine though; I do like the one with the new pulley and all the belts where you can see the part numbers though
http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...newpulley2.jpg

thanks Diego and maximan

 

Wow, it really looks easy to get in there without abs I am pinched. This write up is really going to help me out, I was just talking to Aaron about it...now I have pics and the whole nine...oh yeah, holy rusted y pipe, but BLING BLING UDP with the wheel turned

Thanks again!!! You have made my life 1000000000X easier.

 

that's your old WSP pipe
it's not rusted, it's just a dark metal, but it's still in great condition

ABS does make it a little bit more of a pain, but like I said in the write up, I just used a 12mm open end wrench (make sure it's flat and not bent at that end, the longer the better) and you can reach the bolt from the front side. You could probably also get an adjustable wrench down there from the top if it's thin enough. That's the hardest part of removing the belts.
The crankshaft bolt could be a pain but just get something in between the flywheel teeth and you'll be ok (or impact wrench ). It did take a little while to grind down the inside of the new UDP, but just be patient and do it evenly and dont force the pulley onto the crankshaft
you'll be fine; if not, go make Randy help out

look at all these VEs

 

You just confused me

What do you mean by grind down the pulley?

 

He means making the hole in the UDP bigger so it will fit around that rod. Example.. picture a ho that has had ... nevermind. I'm sure you understand.

I didn't have to grind mine out. But it was a tight fit, but it still slid on without banging it. I have heard of many people having trouble fitting the UDP on b/c it's so tight.

 

yeah, I saw on here that several others had problems with this so I was ready with the dremel

the inside part of the new UDP isn't quite big enough to fit onto the crankshaft so I had to dremel a little bit to make the hole in the UDP a little bigger to fit more easily
my stock pulley came off by hand so I didn't want to force this new one on; the UDP is on a little tighter than the stock one (you'd need a pulley remover to get it off), but I didn't force it on there either

it sounds a lot harder than it is; you'll be fine

btw, Aaron posted all the correct belt sizes since the one ASP says for the power steering is wrong

 

so how long does it take to do it? arent there numerous other pullies you can install other than your crankshaft pully? if i had one i'd prolly ask you to help me install it at the meet if it's not a messy job. they run like $180 right?




:bow:

 

took about 2 hours because I was taking pictures and then grinding the inside of the pulley
There aren't any other pullies to replace, just the crankshaft one. I know Jay25 has air tools and other stuff. If he'd let us use that stuff, I'd probably be able to help out some weekend. I've never done anything engine related on the VG but it looks like everything is pretty similar for this except it's a little more work to get to the front main oil seal. If everything went smoothly and he has air tools for the big bolt in the middle of the pulley, it should only take an hour or two.
The best place to get it for the VG is http://www.courtesyparts.com . I'm not sure if that includes belts or not though.

 

so new belts are necessary or recommended?

 

necessary due to a smaller pulley, you will have smaller belts.

 

craig...get yourself a can of degreaser or brake cleaner..sheesh!

 

there's a little bit of everything in there
some oil coming from the crank seal, a little power steering fluid from when that was leaking, and lots of grease from a busted CV boot that was on there for a long time

if I ever need a dirty ball of oily mush, I'll be ready

 

Did you replace the seal with the pulley?

 

Where did you get the pully from. I can only find them for a VG engine.

 

check out the how-to page

check out the how-to page


I replaced the seal with a new pic, the part number is on the page. The seal was leaking so that was my main reason for taking off the crank pulley in the first place.

You can get the ASP pulley from www.rpmoutlet.com and also someone said you can get it from JEGS too. Unorthodox Racing (UR) only makes the pulley for the VG right now, but they have prototyped one VE so I'm not sure if they'll be coming out or not. I'm happy with the ASP one and I dont see why you'd want a UR one instead of this.

 

Just get an ASP pulley from www.rpmoutlet.com UR did make a pulley for the VE maxima and Eric93SE was the one who helped them make it. I spoke to Eric at 1-11-2003 meet and he told me that the gains are the same as the ASP and the price for UR pulley will be much more so stick with the ASP.

 

i've read that every pound off the crankshaft adds +/- 4 hp...true?