Stalling is happening aleast once a day now and if thats not enough the hesitation has got me pulling my hair out. I don't know what to do guys. But this is my question. My car is still doing this thing where the RMP's jump or fluctuate at will. Does this sound like something that is usually tied to ignition coil failure? I know it's not the knock sensor, because I just spent $450 getting that replaced. I could have swore it was the TPS, but I went to Autozone and picked one up and it seems worse. Would my car act like this if my timing was off? I don't have a timing gun and probaly wouldn't know what to do with it if I did. I thought I might have a clogged Cat but midas said my exaust system was fine. I've changed filters (air/fuel), pcv valve and cleaned throttle body. I've cleaned the connectors on the MAF but I don't know if this would cause my symtoms. Man I just need help, I'm tired of my car shutting off in the middle of traffic or going up a hill with 15 cars behind me.

 

You should have tested the old TPS before you spent money on a new one. It might have just needed a little adjusting. Anyway, test the new one and make sure it's within factory specs.

 

How do you test It?

 

i HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY MAX AND IT STOPED HAPPENING AFTER i GOT A wALBRO FUEL PUMP.
-Jon

 

Crap!, How much did that cost????

 

It was like $97 shipped plus a great upgrade. I remember I was fed-up because one time I was passing a car and it would just dye on me for about 10-15 seconds also don't forget to get a new fuel pump relay.
Walbro----->http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/
Relay------>local nissan dealer or courtesy nissan

 

OK, when my car cuts out. It kind act's like its choaking or something. And most times the RPM's just drop to 0 and I let off the gas and the car will stay on momentarialy until I touch the gas. Does this sound familiar. $97 an't that bad if it will fix it. Believe me I've spent more. Is there a way to check it the pump is bad?

 

To check the feul pump, you will to buy a fuel pressure tester. Replace the fuel filter with the pressure tester and a normal pressure should be around 30 psi. Normall, the fuel pump will get weak when the engine is running for a while and it will slowly gets weak and die then gets back to normal after a while. If u want to check your fuel pump, connect the tester and have the engine running for .5hour and see if the pressure stays or decrease.
The fuel pump may cost $97, but if u are getting it done by someone else, it will cost u more.

 

I am in the same boat with you along with a few guys here. It has drove me crazy for the pass month just trying everything. I have changed plugs, filters, pvc, maf, fuel pressure regulator, cleaning out throttle body, replaced old vaccuum hoses on egr valve and under throttle body and still stalling and hesitating. One thing I noticed today when I was going up a bridge I it started to do the jerky-jerk and died, I heard a back fire from the exhaust. Does these mean fuel is too rich, could this mean o2 or can it be those damn coils? I have unplug each coil one at a time and I get a little change at idle, I might need to check into it more with an multimeter. How do I do that? Please let us know what the hell is wrong with these 92SE's? I wish one of us can find this problem and start enjoying this great machines.
Joe

 

It sounds like it's fuel delivery-related. So Jon's suggestion of getting a fuel pump might not be too bad of an idea. Heck, the worse that can happen is that you've eliminated yet another part off your list of parts that might be causing the problem.

 

Hey, does anyone know how to check and see if your TPS if bad. I bought a new one from autozone. But I have heard of some people getting bad parts.

 

Hey I had the same problem and I turned the RPM's up, and i worked just fine afterwards. On my 94 max its located on the engine under this little plastic cap near the front. I you turn the little flathead screw under the cap outward you will have more rpm's and the car should not stall on you, Just dont turn the screw in cuz that will lower the rpm's and will cause the car to stall. Anyway I hope this was good help.

 

I thought the idle was computer controlled and couldn't really be adjusted on the maxima?

anyway, instead of spending another $500 on repairs that may or may not work, why not take it to a shop to get diagnosed? Spending $90 for that won't make a major hit to your pocket book at this point.

Whenever I have a problem that I can't figure out after a few weekends I take it to the shop and have them check it out. After they tell me what the issue is, I decide if I can do it or not.

The chiltons manual will tell you how to test the TPS and fuel system. A car that just dies could be a lot of things. On my GFs Mazda, the belt were slipping and caused the car to stall every time the RPMs fell too low because the alternator wasn't delivering power. My point it, you haven't checked everything so don't just waste money replacing things - I know it's more fun to rip stuff apart and put it back together, but that costs lots of $$$ and I'd rather spend time than $$$

 

I think I found my problem. I took a good look at my coils today cause the hesitation and stalling was driving me crazy. Anyway I pull them out and pull off the coil protectors(black boot at the bottom) and found cracks on 4 of them, some were pretty bad and some were just starting to crack at the tip. I going to change all 6 and get rid of this problem once and for all. I hope this is will solve my problem. I will keep you guys posted once I get them and put them in this weekend. Pending I can get them fast. So look for the cracks on the coils.
Good Luck!

 

You may want to put in new plugs for good measure while you're in there if the old ones are old. Bag ignition coils can screw up plugs

 

Alright, I'll defintely check out the RPM level. Oh, and I've taken it to 2 different shops and they can't figure it out. Last time the told me it was because the Knock sensor was sending a dead code to the ECU. They said it was cutting off their computer while testing it, thats why I spent the loot on fixing the Knock sensor after replacing the plugs.

 

Update!
Coils were the problem. I change all six coils and bye bye stalling and hesitation problem! My Max is back! So guys and gals check your coils for cracks. Hope this help others with the same dilemma I had.
Good Luck!