dancer

Over 200,000 miles and no broken exhuast studs yet. While I'm doing some other routine maintenance, I'm considering my exhaust stud options. I read all the posts under a search of "broken exhaust studs" and saw prices ranging from $400 to $2400 for dealer repair. For the DIY guy it looks like a 90 degree air drill and a lot of BST are the norm. One of the opinions I read indicates that if you take the studs out before they break, it is unlikely that they will break during the removal procedure. I would have changed the studs by now but I thought that trying to remove them would certainly snap each one. Does anyone have any experience with replacing the studs before they break? As a followup, if the studs break, is it easier to take the heads off?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I did an engine a month or so ago with only two broken studs when I started. by the time I finished, I ended up drilling 4 studs.
I did the studs, CV joints, and a couple of other things on that job and it took me about 10 hours total. probably 5-6 of it was working on the exhaust stud repair.
Keep in mind, I've done this several times, so I'm not new to the job. I knew what parts to take off and hwo to drill the studs out. had I not had the proper tools and experience, it would be a weekend job.

all you need is a small drill. I used an air drill that I bought for about $25 at Harbor Freight, and some GOOOOD drill bits. forget exactly what they are, but nitride hardened high speed, nickel plated, blah blah blah blah bits were what I used. they run about $5 for three bits, but will save your @$$ in the long run because they drill through the studs like butter. go to a GOOD tool shop and you can find them. no sears or wal-mart for these guys.


I wouldn't bother removing the heads on the car though... that's waaay too much work and asking for more problems upon rebuilding (leaky head gaskets, broken wire connectors, timing problems, etc)

just pull the manifolds and drill the studs that break.

shock211

iTrader: (6)

What type of side effects are noticeable when you have a broken stud?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

search. it's talked about all the time.

shock211

iTrader: (6)

dancer

Matt93SE,

You started out w/ two broken studs. Did you discover two more broken studs or did the other two break in the process of attempting to removing them? I'm just trying to find out what others have experienced when they attempt to remove the studs that haven't broken yet.

DARHAW-MAX

Hit 'dem bolts with "shock and awe."

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

two of the studs snapped off while I was removing them. they were already about to come off anyway, as they turned easily as soon as I put a wrench on them. already snapped, just waiting for that last tweak before they fell out. really wasn't anything I didn't expect, considering the condition of the car and the mileage on it.


The rest of you guys... If you don't have anything constructive to say, then STFU.

Dielaughing

being in the middle of a stud swap *as i type*...
so i had 2 in the front shke out, 1 in the rear shake out (none broken)
removing them i broke one in the rear, but (thank you dieties) the manifold came off with the head of the stud jammed in there...
so now i drill and ezout that bugger... but i did run into one little problem
i am not skilled enough @ tetris to get the rear manifold off w/o jacking up the engine and removing the cross bar underneath. so... those w/experience laughing @ me now, HELP!!!! i'm about to go searching (flamethrowers down boys) but thought i would toss in my $0.02 here

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

yup.. that's how you have to do it...
in order to get the drill in there, I had to lower the engine about 3" in the engine bay. the axles and stuff will take it- just make sure you don't have any hoses, wires, etc that get bound up while you're lowering the engine. try to just lower the back end if you can, so that the head is at more of a downward angle. makes it easier to get the drill in there.


that help?

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

man, after reading so many posts about studs being broken etc etc, i think i'll check mine as well. the car just hit 152k last week. got a wierd feeling they're gonna go any time soon now.

Dielaughing

thanks matt, now to unpack the 2-ton jack again...
for the info of all- front end is no problem, do it yourself.
rear... if you haven't gone as far as i have already (mech's ignore)PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DEAL WITH THIS ****ING THING!!!!
grrr.... oh well,

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

LOL I thought the rear was easier than the fronts, once you get the crossmember and rear mounts down.

Dielaughing

NEWSFLASH: crossmember & engine don't need to be touched at all.
use a smaller drill to get in there with the limited space.
now for tricky bit to explain... the manifold and it's removal w/o moving the engine.

Dielaughing

so it needs to be said that my dad has been trained as an airplane mechanic...and i asked him for help with this whole proccess
as i was breaking out the jack he mumbled something about space to pull it out through the top
all i can say is it worked and it was easy (in the dark no less)just remove 2 radiator hoses and use a bucket to catch the drainage. remove the hose that runs behind the head and move a couple others out of the way.
PULL TWIST DONE!!!
he asked me to mention... my dad's smarter than your dad

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

my dad stays away from my car. he's too old for fuel injection. he can build up a 289 Ford to run 10s though.

I personally thought it was easier to pull the lower crossmember and take it out from the bottom, but everyone has their preferences.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

Can I have more info on that

Dielaughing

i'm just a teensy bit wary of unmounting my engine doe to lack of experience, this was absurdly easy w/only a loss of about 1/2 liter of radiator fluid. although i'll let you konw how much of a PINA drilling the stud w/o a guide is by end of day.