How to change wheel studs??????? HEEELLLPPPPPP
#1
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How to change wheel studs??????? HEEELLLPPPPPP
Does anyboyd know how to change the studs the athe lugs for your rims go on. Mines are stripped badly and the other day 4 lugs fell off my car while i was driving so i really need to change them quickly and PEP BOys said that they could do it for like $175. But i heard that it wasn't that hard to do it by yourself. Does anybody know how to change the studs on the car. I heard that you have to take the caliper off and just bang the studs off and then bang the new ones in. Does anybody know how to do this and also how do u take the calipers off?
#2
that's pretty much it.
look behind the caliper and you'll see two 17mm bolts. remove those, then the caliper comes off.
take the rotor off, then you can hammer the old studs out at that point.
I highly suggest buying a service manual while you're getting parts for this project. it'll save you lots of questions later.
look behind the caliper and you'll see two 17mm bolts. remove those, then the caliper comes off.
take the rotor off, then you can hammer the old studs out at that point.
I highly suggest buying a service manual while you're getting parts for this project. it'll save you lots of questions later.
#3
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
that's pretty much it.
look behind the caliper and you'll see two 17mm bolts. remove those, then the caliper comes off.
take the rotor off, then you can hammer the old studs out at that point.
I highly suggest buying a service manual while you're getting parts for this project. it'll save you lots of questions later.
look behind the caliper and you'll see two 17mm bolts. remove those, then the caliper comes off.
take the rotor off, then you can hammer the old studs out at that point.
I highly suggest buying a service manual while you're getting parts for this project. it'll save you lots of questions later.
Now you're looking at 5 studs and you can tap them out. BUT, you'll see that sheet metal will be in the way in order to remove the stud completely out the backside. I broke out my tin snips and cut a section out so you can remove the stud. Then, it will be easy to remove the other studs, just turn the hub around until the stud is next to the section you cut out.
Then, make sure you bend that thin metal back to where it was or the rotor will scrape on it and probably cause a fire.
When you turn the hub, make sure you put blocks behind the rear wheels before you put the car in N. Always put your ebrake up too. This is a normal procedure for jacking up a vehicle, but it just sounded like you've never done it before.
Get a Hayne's manual if you have a 93 Maxima GXE and get a Chilton's if you have a 93 SE.
#4
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Thanx A Lot. both of you your very helpful. I will try and do this tommorow. But Do either of you know where i can find the studs for a maxima. I drove to pepboys the other day and they were out of studs. I live on Long island. Maybe there is a place where i can order them online or something.
#5
Originally Posted by youngbleek85
Thanx A Lot. both of you your very helpful. I will try and do this tommorow. But Do either of you know where i can find the studs for a maxima. I drove to pepboys the other day and they were out of studs. I live on Long island. Maybe there is a place where i can order them online or something.
Just check around, you'll find them at usual parts stores.
To add to my message before, if you're replacing the rear studs, it will require removing the hub along with rotor and caliper. But if you're doing the front, I was able to remove it just by snipping a section of useless metal out of the way.
BTW, I've never done the rears before, Matt just told me this. But I have done the fronts and that is what I was talking about in my post above.
#6
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
It's 14mm when I removed my front caliper 2 days ago. I had to replace a stud on the front. Remove the wheel, remove the caliper and the rotor will slide right off.
#7
Originally Posted by «§»Craig B«§»
14mm for the bolts that hold the caliper to the "torque member". The torque member is held on by 2 17mm bolts to the hub. You have to take that off too before you can get the rotor off
#8
I think, all that you will need is a $5 C-clamp and a $5 pickle fork tool to get the job done, plus the costs for the newer parts. I think you might wanna give it a try first before handling over pepboys, cuz you could do a lot with the extra moneys you saved.
#9
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Originally Posted by bvtran
I think, all that you will need is a $5 C-clamp and a $5 pickle fork tool to get the job done, plus the costs for the newer parts. I think you might wanna give it a try first before handling over pepboys, cuz you could do a lot with the extra moneys you saved.
#10
if you dont wana do them yourself u can try sear autocenter, i know this cuz i work there and they change them for like 50 dollaz which i think if u dont wana go through the trouble just do that. its up to you - i have done it - and its not hard - just getting the capiler and **** off is the hard part after that is pritty much str8 forward. Good Luck.
#12
Originally Posted by youngbleek85
Yeah you are probably right. I figure that it will take me 2 and half hours to do all for wheels. But i will be saving a lot fo money and learning new stuff about my car at the same time.And i can take the extra money and buy new brake pads which i seriously need.
#13
Install Advise
When you get the new studs, first line up the teeth on the stud to the teeth on the hub. Then put some washers to act as spacers and put a lug on and tighten until they seat. This way you don't strip the teeth of the stud.
#15
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Originally Posted by 91maxi
if you dont wana do them yourself u can try sear autocenter, i know this cuz i work there and they change them for like 50 dollaz which i think if u dont wana go through the trouble just do that. its up to you - i have done it - and its not hard - just getting the capiler and **** off is the hard part after that is pritty much str8 forward. Good Luck.
That was one of the first places i went to. They said that they were going to charge me 40$ per wheel just to take the calipers off and then they were going to charge me 5$ for the first stud and 1$ per additional stud and that isn't even including the price of the studs.
#16
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Originally Posted by avusblue92se
When you get the new studs, first line up the teeth on the stud to the teeth on the hub. Then put some washers to act as spacers and put a lug on and tighten until they seat. This way you don't strip the teeth of the stud.
Ok. right now i don't understand what you are talking about but hopefully when ig et my new studs i will be able to understand more because i don't know what the whole stud looks like. Are you saying put the lug on the stud before i put the studs on the car??......so that i won't strip the studs when i bang them in????
#17
Originally Posted by 91maxi
if you dont wana do them yourself u can try sear autocenter, i know this cuz i work there and they change them for like 50 dollaz which i think if u dont wana go through the trouble just do that. its up to you - i have done it - and its not hard - just getting the capiler and **** off is the hard part after that is pritty much str8 forward. Good Luck.
note to self... never bring car to sears auto center... cuz i dont wana hav my ryde pritty much messd up...
#18
Originally Posted by youngbleek85
Ok. right now i don't understand what you are talking about but hopefully when ig et my new studs i will be able to understand more because i don't know what the whole stud looks like. Are you saying put the lug on the stud before i put the studs on the car??......so that i won't strip the studs when i bang them in????
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