there are 2 things buggin me with my well actually three the recent rough idle on my car and the put put noise from my exhaust. Im waiting for throttle body gasket to come into dealership tommorrow so I can open that up and clean it out and Im wondering If I didnt set the gap right when I replaced plugs. I did about .035 ....I did have the problems before but I guess that couldnt help. I also have the problem some have mentioned with car not turning over and also turning and not starting. My usual solution is just puttin it into neutral and it usually works the first time. I just replaced alt I think im going to do starter too. Ill prolli do some overkill and step up to 4 ga ofc pwr wire from starter to alt but any wires I should change out?

 

isn't the gap supposed to be .40-.45? Thats what mines at and it runs fine... check that first but usually, the put put sound is from too much gasoline not being burned. If your plugs are at .35, that could be what your problem is. Good luck!

 

Back fire normally due to bad ignition timing - usually it's too retarded. The spark plugs are firing too late causing the mixture to "explode" & not "burn". Sometimes if your mixture is too lean, that also causes pop-pop noises - esp noticeable as you're coming to a stop. You may have an air leak into inlet manifold. Both problems will cause hard starting, engine running too hot & bad gas mileage.
Timing on 91 gas - 15 degrees BTDC @ 900rpm
Spark plug gap should be 0.039 - 0.043 in (1.0 - 1.1mm).

 

Bet ya - have injector problemos... Check them at idle by pulling the spark plug wires one at a time and see if it makes a difference..

If when you pull one of the plug wires - no difference then chances are - bad injector (If you have good compression and good plug and wire)

In summary - do a compression check on warm engine.

If good - make sure timing is 15 degrees BTDC (using timing light).

Then start looking at the injectors

 

I agree with rexwl. I had a bad injector a while back, and it definitely made the "putt-putt" sound from the exhaust until I replaced it. Also caused rough idle due to non-firing cylinder.

 

on matts page isnt there a mod to adjust ignition timing or was that something else? I know you need a gun for that though and I dont have access to that

 

Rexwl,

I have a question: when you disconnect a plug wire and see no difference, how do you know it's not a spark plug problem?

 

He's assuming that your plugs & wires are good. If you want to check the spark plug, remove it, connect the wire & earth the plug. When you crank the engine, you'll see it spark. An easier & better way is to connect timing light to plug wire & crank engine. Functioning plug = operative timing light. You can check all plugs this way.

 

all of my experiences with backfiring have been related to inproper timing, and sometimes mixed with too much gasoline in the intake + inproper timing. I <3 Fire in the carb

 

Definitely have to agree with the other posters regarding the 'putt putt' noise. I had this same noise coming out the exhaust on my '92 GXE, plus the car idled like caca. Turned out to be a bad #3 injector. Had it replaced and she runs sweet now. No more 'putt putt'.

 

Unless you have removed - or loosened the bolt holding down the distributor - Or your timing belt / chain has jumped a tooth. Your Timing is OK.

If it is putt putting - It's an injector.

The injector's on some of these machines can go bad at 70k plus... (although my wifes has 155k and still no bad injector). When one goes bad - you won't get a backfire - (kabang) just the putt putt that you described...

If it is an injector - Change them all and call it a day.

Good luck

 

Since where on the topic of replacing injectors,what is the price range for replacing one injector and what is the price to replace all of them?

 

here's what it cost me to rebuild 2 injectors and replace 3 other injectors with working ones(not brand new) = $150.00 (includes new hoses and gaskets)
i did the work myself and it took awhile but it's far better than paying a mechanic to do it.

when testing injectors i highly suggest testing them with a multimeter. if the injector starting to go the engine might not be picking it up when you pull the plug wires. with the multimeter you should get a reading of 12-14 ohms. anything more or less means the injector is gone or going.

check your oxygen and maf sensor as well. they can also cause misfiring.