Crimestopper RS-900VI Remote Starter installed.
02-04-2004, 10:08 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 797
Crimestopper RS-900VI Remote Starter installed.
Got this sucker installed last night, courtesy of a little help from Craig B. 
Everything went smoothly except the trunk pop, and a programming problem.
I have to go get another relay to pop the trunk. The clutch/neutral interlock works great once I finally got it to save the settings I programmed. Turns out you have to follow the instructions in the book, then lock/unlock the doors.
If Craig doesn't mind, I'll post up the info he sent me on wiring a remote start safely into a manual transmission.
Sorry Shawn, couldn't wait till the weekend
Everything went smoothly except the trunk pop, and a programming problem.
I have to go get another relay to pop the trunk. The clutch/neutral interlock works great once I finally got it to save the settings I programmed. Turns out you have to follow the instructions in the book, then lock/unlock the doors.
If Craig doesn't mind, I'll post up the info he sent me on wiring a remote start safely into a manual transmission.
Sorry Shawn, couldn't wait till the weekend
02-04-2004, 11:46 AM
#4
sweet...I just got my CrimeStoppers CS2011 RSIV alarm with remote start today (3 actually 1 for my max, 1 for my Jeep and the other for my friend). I paid $69 plus shipping($10 for the first and $7 each additional) from probably the same guy off of ebay. I ordered them Sunday and got them today. I will hook mine up for the Maxima tonight and the Jeep tomorrow. I dont know when I will get to my friends truck though (since its not mine I am in no hurry LOL).
Time to go heat the soldering iron up
Time to go heat the soldering iron up
j/king hehehhee)
02-04-2004, 01:04 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 378
can you send me the right up to blinky@optimumisp.com
02-04-2004, 01:59 PM
#7
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 797
I'll cut it up and post here, then if Craig prefers I'll take it down.
The only thing I changed was the second relay on the Ignition 2 wire. The RS900 has a second circuit for it and it was rated @ 30A so I just used it.
Shawn: Did the RSTB's come yet?
_____________________________
Ignition Wiring: The wire colors change a couple places so I'm going to use the relative locations in the harness. If you look just under the steering
column, there is a large connector with 5 thick wires going through it that
is clipped to the underside of the column. Unplug the connector and look at
the wires; you'll notice one unused spot.
1 2 3
X 4 5
Where X is the blank spot
wire 1 = Starter wire
wire 2 = Ignition Power
wire 3 = Second Starter Wire
wire 4 = Accessory Power
wire 5 = Constant Power
You can use wire 5 to power your main unit.
Wire the ignition wire and acc to corresponding wires on remote starter.
Nissan uses 2 starter wires which must both be powered to start the car.
You will need a relay to power the 2 starter wires.
Look further down for a little bit about relays and numbering of pins.
Pin 85: Ground
Pin 86: Second Ignition from remote starter (make sure it is set to ignition and not accessory - there is a jumper that controls this.)
Pin 30: connect to one Nissan starter wire; also connect this wire to the
starter wire from the remote start unit
Pin 87: connect to the other Nissan starter wire
_____________________________
Parking Lights: Connect to Red/Yellow (red with yellow stripe) at ANY switch that lights up.
I connected mine to the defog switch wires because it's the closest; there is a small hole that you can feed the wire through up to that switch.
_____________________________
Horn: Connect to Yellow/Green at stock alarm harness (under dash to the left of steering column)
_____________________________
Black/Ground: Put under any large screw on a metal surface.
_____________________________
Brake Switch: This one is a pain. You have to connect to the Red/White wire in the brake switch harness; there are 2 wires (red/white and red/yellow) so it's a little hard to distinguish and even harder to get to but its doable.
Looking up at the steering column there is a blue harness and white one; you want the white one on the right side.
_____________________________
Disarm: Connect to light green/black wire at stock alarm (Metal box to the left of the steering column)
Arm: Connect to light green/white wire at stock alarm. Note: There is also a solid light green wire so dont get them mixed up.
_____________________________
Lock: grey/red at door lock timer (grey plastic box just to the right of
steering column)
Unlock: light blue at door lock timer
_____________________________
Trunk Pop: Solid brown wire: This wire can be found in the drivers kick
panel but for me it was easier to trace it back where there were fewer wires
under the rear seats.
Also, you'll need a relay to convert the - trigger to a + signal. Wire pins 85 and 30 to a constant +12V source, pin 86 to the - trigger, pin 87 to the + trunk wire in the car
[Personal Note] An SPST Relay with 4 pins will work for this. Original writeup calls for SPDT.
_____________________________
For clutch bypass and neutral sensing:
You'll need 2 SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) relays for this. They will
have 5 pins. Most Bosch style relays use a similar convention with these
numbers - 85,86,87,87A, 30. If not, just match up the pins to the numbers I
used.
[Personal Note] I couldn't get ahold of SPDT relays, so I got DPDT which have 8 pins instead.
This info here will be helpful in this case:
85: Coil 1
86: Coil 2
30: Common
87: Normally Open Contact
87a: Normally Closed Contact
____
Luckily the car has a stock neutral sensor built into the tranny and we can
find that wire at the ECU. For the VE, it's a solid brown wire on the top row
about 7 wires in from the right side (if you are looking straight at the ecu
from the drivers side of the car). It should read about 4-5V in any gear and
ground when in N.
[Personal Note] This will only read 4-5V if the ignition is on. I was worried for a while that the neutral switch was bad.
Here's how to wire the clutch/neutral interlock:
Relay 1:
85: neutral wire from ECU
30: ground
87: no connection
87A: wire to remote start - hood trigger wire
86: wire to pin 87 of relay 2
Relay 2:
85: +12V constant
30: +12V constant (you can just connect it to the same wire as 85)
87: connect to pin 86 of relay 1
86: to the - ign output from remote start unit (anti-grind output)
87A: no connection
Also splice a long wire into the wire you used to connect the relays (pins
86 and 87A). Run this to the wire at the clutch switch. There are two clutch
switches, one for cruise control and one for starting. The one for starting
is the lower switch, right up against the firewall.
There are two wires here, you will have to cut the black covering from around it a little but be careful not to cut the two wires inside. Now connect your new wire to the light green/white wire in the clutch switch. Make sure this wire will not get tangled up when the clutch moves.
_________________________
Antenna: I think the A pillar is as good of a place as any so I usually put it there. To remove, you have to pull straight out at the top part (there are a
few clips in there that you need to pull out. Try to feel where the resistance is and pull in that area). Once the clips are out, you then pull up and out to get the last clip off.
Mount the antenna using the included double sided tape. You want it somewhere that it wont cause any bulges in the A pillar or interfere with anything (obviously). Now drop its connector and wiring down the hole by the windshield, feed most of it through and hopefully you'll be able to find it from under the dash (may take a few tries).
Then just plug the antenna into the side of the brain.
_________________________
Mount LED somewhere and plug it in.
Mount valet switch somewhere and plug it in.
-----------------------------
Make sure you wire any additional wires in.
Solder and tape all joints securely. You can cut the extra wire off, but leave slack so the unit can be moved, or the wires can be serviced.
Thanks again to Craig B, master of wiring.
The only thing I changed was the second relay on the Ignition 2 wire. The RS900 has a second circuit for it and it was rated @ 30A so I just used it.
Shawn: Did the RSTB's come yet?
_____________________________
Ignition Wiring: The wire colors change a couple places so I'm going to use the relative locations in the harness. If you look just under the steering
column, there is a large connector with 5 thick wires going through it that
is clipped to the underside of the column. Unplug the connector and look at
the wires; you'll notice one unused spot.
1 2 3
X 4 5
Where X is the blank spot
wire 1 = Starter wire
wire 2 = Ignition Power
wire 3 = Second Starter Wire
wire 4 = Accessory Power
wire 5 = Constant Power
You can use wire 5 to power your main unit.
Wire the ignition wire and acc to corresponding wires on remote starter.
Nissan uses 2 starter wires which must both be powered to start the car.
You will need a relay to power the 2 starter wires.
Look further down for a little bit about relays and numbering of pins.
Pin 85: Ground
Pin 86: Second Ignition from remote starter (make sure it is set to ignition and not accessory - there is a jumper that controls this.)
Pin 30: connect to one Nissan starter wire; also connect this wire to the
starter wire from the remote start unit
Pin 87: connect to the other Nissan starter wire
_____________________________
Parking Lights: Connect to Red/Yellow (red with yellow stripe) at ANY switch that lights up.
I connected mine to the defog switch wires because it's the closest; there is a small hole that you can feed the wire through up to that switch.
_____________________________
Horn: Connect to Yellow/Green at stock alarm harness (under dash to the left of steering column)
_____________________________
Black/Ground: Put under any large screw on a metal surface.
_____________________________
Brake Switch: This one is a pain. You have to connect to the Red/White wire in the brake switch harness; there are 2 wires (red/white and red/yellow) so it's a little hard to distinguish and even harder to get to but its doable.
Looking up at the steering column there is a blue harness and white one; you want the white one on the right side.
_____________________________
Disarm: Connect to light green/black wire at stock alarm (Metal box to the left of the steering column)
Arm: Connect to light green/white wire at stock alarm. Note: There is also a solid light green wire so dont get them mixed up.
_____________________________
Lock: grey/red at door lock timer (grey plastic box just to the right of
steering column)
Unlock: light blue at door lock timer
_____________________________
Trunk Pop: Solid brown wire: This wire can be found in the drivers kick
panel but for me it was easier to trace it back where there were fewer wires
under the rear seats.
Also, you'll need a relay to convert the - trigger to a + signal. Wire pins 85 and 30 to a constant +12V source, pin 86 to the - trigger, pin 87 to the + trunk wire in the car
[Personal Note] An SPST Relay with 4 pins will work for this. Original writeup calls for SPDT.
_____________________________
For clutch bypass and neutral sensing:
You'll need 2 SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) relays for this. They will
have 5 pins. Most Bosch style relays use a similar convention with these
numbers - 85,86,87,87A, 30. If not, just match up the pins to the numbers I
used.
[Personal Note] I couldn't get ahold of SPDT relays, so I got DPDT which have 8 pins instead.
This info here will be helpful in this case:
85: Coil 1
86: Coil 2
30: Common
87: Normally Open Contact
87a: Normally Closed Contact
____
Luckily the car has a stock neutral sensor built into the tranny and we can
find that wire at the ECU. For the VE, it's a solid brown wire on the top row
about 7 wires in from the right side (if you are looking straight at the ecu
from the drivers side of the car). It should read about 4-5V in any gear and
ground when in N.
[Personal Note] This will only read 4-5V if the ignition is on. I was worried for a while that the neutral switch was bad.
Here's how to wire the clutch/neutral interlock:
Relay 1:
85: neutral wire from ECU
30: ground
87: no connection
87A: wire to remote start - hood trigger wire
86: wire to pin 87 of relay 2
Relay 2:
85: +12V constant
30: +12V constant (you can just connect it to the same wire as 85)
87: connect to pin 86 of relay 1
86: to the - ign output from remote start unit (anti-grind output)
87A: no connection
Also splice a long wire into the wire you used to connect the relays (pins
86 and 87A). Run this to the wire at the clutch switch. There are two clutch
switches, one for cruise control and one for starting. The one for starting
is the lower switch, right up against the firewall.
There are two wires here, you will have to cut the black covering from around it a little but be careful not to cut the two wires inside. Now connect your new wire to the light green/white wire in the clutch switch. Make sure this wire will not get tangled up when the clutch moves.
_________________________
Antenna: I think the A pillar is as good of a place as any so I usually put it there. To remove, you have to pull straight out at the top part (there are a
few clips in there that you need to pull out. Try to feel where the resistance is and pull in that area). Once the clips are out, you then pull up and out to get the last clip off.
Mount the antenna using the included double sided tape. You want it somewhere that it wont cause any bulges in the A pillar or interfere with anything (obviously). Now drop its connector and wiring down the hole by the windshield, feed most of it through and hopefully you'll be able to find it from under the dash (may take a few tries).
Then just plug the antenna into the side of the brain.
_________________________
Mount LED somewhere and plug it in.
Mount valet switch somewhere and plug it in.
-----------------------------
Make sure you wire any additional wires in.
Solder and tape all joints securely. You can cut the extra wire off, but leave slack so the unit can be moved, or the wires can be serviced.
Thanks again to Craig B, master of wiring.
02-04-2004, 02:32 PM
#9
Donating Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 797
Also, for people like me who are visually inclined, I drew up this little diagram. It shows how the interlock works.
My interpetation:
The +12V is applied to one side of relay 2's coil and the common pin of the contacts.
When the Anti-Grind wire is grounded, it creates a circuit through the coil of relay 2, switching +12V to relay 1 and the clutch bypass wire.
If the neutral safety switch is grounded, it allows completion of this circuit, applies the +12 to the clutch bypass, and also lifts the Hood Safety switch from ground, allowing the remote starter to activate.
whew. couldn't have figured that out without drawing it.
My interpetation:
The +12V is applied to one side of relay 2's coil and the common pin of the contacts.
When the Anti-Grind wire is grounded, it creates a circuit through the coil of relay 2, switching +12V to relay 1 and the clutch bypass wire.
If the neutral safety switch is grounded, it allows completion of this circuit, applies the +12 to the clutch bypass, and also lifts the Hood Safety switch from ground, allowing the remote starter to activate.
whew. couldn't have figured that out without drawing it.
02-04-2004, 05:49 PM
#11
yeah, I dont mind you posting it. I was going to put it on my website, but I didn't want to be responsible for people trying it and really messing up their cars. But maybe I'll just put it up and add a warning.
yup, you explained the relays pretty well for the clutch/neutral stuff. It's a fail-safe system to so if either relay dies, it still wont start.
yes, SPST is fine for the trunk relay, I just had it listed that way since you'll need 2 SPDT for the clutch stuff anyway
awsm66 brought up a good point too - The reason I didn't use the second ignition wire from the crimestopper and instead used a relay on the starter wire is that starter is only on for a second and IGN is on for a long time. The starter circuitry is designed to only be on for a couple seconds at a time while the Ignition stuff (aka ON) is meant to be on most of the times. ACC is similar but turns off when you start the car so it wont have too much load on the battery then. With your extra ignition wire, the second Nissan starter wire is always on when the car is ON. I dont know exactly where this goes to but I dont think I'd want to keep it energized the whole time.
if there are any more questions about the writeup or wiring for one of these, let me know
good job Spipedong, glad it's working
yup, you explained the relays pretty well for the clutch/neutral stuff. It's a fail-safe system to so if either relay dies, it still wont start.
yes, SPST is fine for the trunk relay, I just had it listed that way since you'll need 2 SPDT for the clutch stuff anyway
awsm66 brought up a good point too - The reason I didn't use the second ignition wire from the crimestopper and instead used a relay on the starter wire is that starter is only on for a second and IGN is on for a long time. The starter circuitry is designed to only be on for a couple seconds at a time while the Ignition stuff (aka ON) is meant to be on most of the times. ACC is similar but turns off when you start the car so it wont have too much load on the battery then. With your extra ignition wire, the second Nissan starter wire is always on when the car is ON. I dont know exactly where this goes to but I dont think I'd want to keep it energized the whole time.
if there are any more questions about the writeup or wiring for one of these, let me know
good job Spipedong, glad it's working
02-04-2004, 05:49 PM
#12
Originally Posted by MrGone
hey Keelan, you can figure out why my security light never stops blinking and why my alarm doesn't seem to work.
I dont want to
I dont want to
02-04-2004, 05:58 PM
#13
Originally Posted by «§»Craig B«§»
I bet your hood or trunk open sensor isn't working right
Anyway to check them pretty quickly?
The hood sensor has the rubber boot/cover thing cracked on it (seems like every 3rd gen but my old back one does).
Thanks Craig!
02-04-2004, 08:08 PM
#15
yeah, I've noticed that about the boots on the hood sensor too - every car has that torn, but I finally found a good one at the junkyard on the car where I got my ACC parts actually
you should be able to unplug both sensors to test them. They just give ground to the alarm if the sensor if fully open (hood/trunk is opened). If they're closed they dont give any signal so it'd be the same thing if you unplugged them.
If you take the insulation off the trunk lid, you'll see a harness just above the latch (not the harness by the keyhole), unplug that to test it
I think your security light is blinking because it thinks a zone is open (door, trunk, hood). I dont think it's your doors because then the dome light would be on too.
let me know if this works or not - could be some other problem too
you should be able to unplug both sensors to test them. They just give ground to the alarm if the sensor if fully open (hood/trunk is opened). If they're closed they dont give any signal so it'd be the same thing if you unplugged them.
If you take the insulation off the trunk lid, you'll see a harness just above the latch (not the harness by the keyhole), unplug that to test it
I think your security light is blinking because it thinks a zone is open (door, trunk, hood). I dont think it's your doors because then the dome light would be on too.
let me know if this works or not - could be some other problem too
02-04-2004, 08:10 PM
#16
Originally Posted by gowirelessnj
i just bypassed the clutch switch it was easier - and since i NEVER EVER NOT EVEN ONCE leave my car in gear i dont have to worry about it walking away...
I'd do it correctly for piece of mind.
02-04-2004, 09:02 PM
#18
Sweet! I'll give that a shot tommarrow Craig, and good thinking about the dome light... I was trying to figure out why it wouldn't be the doors myself. 
I agree with Keelan/Craig about the wiring, you don't really need to idiot proof your car from yourself (although sometimes it helps, lol), but its other people you need to worry about.
I agree with Keelan/Craig about the wiring, you don't really need to idiot proof your car from yourself (although sometimes it helps, lol), but its other people you need to worry about.
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