My max is jacked up after getting engine cleaned :(
03-29-2004, 10:55 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 35
My max is jacked up after getting engine cleaned :(
Took my '89 Max to the local car wash / detailer to get the interior shampooed and I had them clean the engine. The car was running like a top when I brought it in. I get it back, and now it runs like total crap. I took it right back, and they said sometimes water get's in the distributor and other areas. They said to give it 1 to 2 days to dry, and everything should dry out and be fine. Well it's been over 2 days, and it is still running like crap. Here are the symptoms. btw, this is an automatic VG. When driving, the thing seems to shift gears, or try to shift gears, so it may be in second, then it will downshift (even though I am still accelerating), and jerks the car as it slows down. The other problem I was having is that I would be driving, and the RPM's would go from 2k to 3k, then back to 2k real quick, then ramp back up to 3k, and repeat several times in a row (all the while jerking my back and forth). I can't figure out if this is an engine or tranny issue. If the engine is being strange, then the transmission probably doesn't know how to handle it. Alternatly, if the transmission is being strange, it may take the engine on it's wild ride.
So my main suspect is that they knocked something loose when they cleaned the engine. I took it back right away, but they don't seem to know much. It is possible though, that something just happened to go bad durring the 90 minutes they had it.
Is there some sort of vacuum hose that controls the tranny? I found one hose that wasn't attached to anything, so that was my prime suspect. The only problem is that I can't see anything that it would connect to. The guys at the car wash said it was some sort of bleeder hose or some crap like that. I will take a picture and attach it to see if you guys know where it should go. It has a metal hose at the end of the tube, and it bends at an angle.
I am going to get the transmission fluid replaced first thing in the morning, just to rule that out. I tried to check the fluid level, and it was hard to tell what level it was at. The dipstick definitly had transmission fluid on it, there just wasn't a clear line of what level it was at, like the line engine oil usually leaves.
Any other ideas or trouble shooting advice would be GREATLY appreciated. I am trying to work with the carwash to get it resolved, but it will probably be easier to take care of it myself.
Thanks!!!!
So my main suspect is that they knocked something loose when they cleaned the engine. I took it back right away, but they don't seem to know much. It is possible though, that something just happened to go bad durring the 90 minutes they had it.
Is there some sort of vacuum hose that controls the tranny? I found one hose that wasn't attached to anything, so that was my prime suspect. The only problem is that I can't see anything that it would connect to. The guys at the car wash said it was some sort of bleeder hose or some crap like that. I will take a picture and attach it to see if you guys know where it should go. It has a metal hose at the end of the tube, and it bends at an angle.
I am going to get the transmission fluid replaced first thing in the morning, just to rule that out. I tried to check the fluid level, and it was hard to tell what level it was at. The dipstick definitly had transmission fluid on it, there just wasn't a clear line of what level it was at, like the line engine oil usually leaves.
Any other ideas or trouble shooting advice would be GREATLY appreciated. I am trying to work with the carwash to get it resolved, but it will probably be easier to take care of it myself.
Thanks!!!!
03-29-2004, 11:25 PM
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 189
Man, sometimes these guys at detail shops really get me...they spray water all over an engine, which is inherently devistanting to anything electrical, then your engine doesn't run right after, so they're like "it'll be fine in a couple days" which doesn't really solve your problem right now, does it? Not to mention the fact they maybe should have been more careful when dumping water all over the engine in the first place.
It sounds most likely to me, that what the detailer said is correct, and there's just water in the ignition system someplace, which is causing problems. What you could try, is unhook all your plug wires, from the spark plugs, and the distributor, and dry the contacts. If there's moisture in the ends of the wires, or inside where the plugs are mounted, with the plug wires attached, the moisture might be trapped, and hasn't dried in the last two days. There could be water in the distributor too, which means it should be taken appart and dried. I'm not familiar with the ignition system on the VG engine, as I'm new to Maximas, and mine is a VE with DIS. You can spray electrical contacts with electrical contact spray, or if you don't have any of that, you can use WD40. You're probably thinking "are you nuts, spray WD40 on something electrical, but WD40 is a great moisture deterent for electrical contacts...in fact, a bit of useless information, the guy who invented WD40 was trying to come up with something that would prevent water from getting into electrical contacts, or likewise remove water already saturated into electrical contacts, and what he came up with was the 40th formula, appropriate called Water Deterrent 40. Just make sure to wipe any sprayed areas clean after, as you don't want dirt to build up on contacts. Anyhow...try doing the same with some of the obvious sensors such as the MAF and the like. A bad contact there could definitely cause some funky stuff to happen. If you've got a lot of patience, you can always get a hair dryer, and run it for a few minutes near everything that looks electrical, in hopes of drying phantom moisture. Just make sure to hold the hair dryer in a manor that gives good airflow into the back, and enough room to exit...if it gets too hot it'll shut off. Once i melted a hair dryer from having improper airflow, it was pretty funny. I hope that helps.
As for checking the transmission fluid level, that's definitely a bit more tricky than engine oil, as the fluid is red and harder to see. Make sure the engine is warm, and idling, with the transmission in Park, then check the fluid level. If you can't see a level line on the dipstick after repeated checkings, then the fluid level is most likely low. The classic symptom of low level on transmission fluid is when the car is stopped, when you accellerate off the line, the engine will rev in what feels like neutral momentarily, then the transmission will engage first gear, so you will feel it, and it's quite rough.
It sounds most likely to me, that what the detailer said is correct, and there's just water in the ignition system someplace, which is causing problems. What you could try, is unhook all your plug wires, from the spark plugs, and the distributor, and dry the contacts. If there's moisture in the ends of the wires, or inside where the plugs are mounted, with the plug wires attached, the moisture might be trapped, and hasn't dried in the last two days. There could be water in the distributor too, which means it should be taken appart and dried. I'm not familiar with the ignition system on the VG engine, as I'm new to Maximas, and mine is a VE with DIS. You can spray electrical contacts with electrical contact spray, or if you don't have any of that, you can use WD40. You're probably thinking "are you nuts, spray WD40 on something electrical, but WD40 is a great moisture deterent for electrical contacts...in fact, a bit of useless information, the guy who invented WD40 was trying to come up with something that would prevent water from getting into electrical contacts, or likewise remove water already saturated into electrical contacts, and what he came up with was the 40th formula, appropriate called Water Deterrent 40. Just make sure to wipe any sprayed areas clean after, as you don't want dirt to build up on contacts. Anyhow...try doing the same with some of the obvious sensors such as the MAF and the like. A bad contact there could definitely cause some funky stuff to happen. If you've got a lot of patience, you can always get a hair dryer, and run it for a few minutes near everything that looks electrical, in hopes of drying phantom moisture. Just make sure to hold the hair dryer in a manor that gives good airflow into the back, and enough room to exit...if it gets too hot it'll shut off. Once i melted a hair dryer from having improper airflow, it was pretty funny. I hope that helps.
As for checking the transmission fluid level, that's definitely a bit more tricky than engine oil, as the fluid is red and harder to see. Make sure the engine is warm, and idling, with the transmission in Park, then check the fluid level. If you can't see a level line on the dipstick after repeated checkings, then the fluid level is most likely low. The classic symptom of low level on transmission fluid is when the car is stopped, when you accellerate off the line, the engine will rev in what feels like neutral momentarily, then the transmission will engage first gear, so you will feel it, and it's quite rough.
03-29-2004, 11:25 PM
#3
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Posts: 35
The plot thickens
I just went and took her for a spin, so I could get a better description of the problem. Now she is running like a champ. 
That would be great if it stays like this, but I am not counting on it. The last time I drove it before this was about 8 hours ago, in the late afternoon. The only thing I can think of is that it is much cooler now. I guess I will have to see how it does tomorrow morning. Perhaps it really did just need more time to dry out.
That would be great if it stays like this, but I am not counting on it. The last time I drove it before this was about 8 hours ago, in the late afternoon. The only thing I can think of is that it is much cooler now. I guess I will have to see how it does tomorrow morning. Perhaps it really did just need more time to dry out.
03-29-2004, 11:35 PM
#4
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Thanks for the input Creedence85. You are right about the detailers. Right away (after I mention the problem) they claim that the guys cleaning the engines aren't responsible for knowing about engines. They say they have problems all the time when cleaning older car engines. Why didn't they tell me this before I got it??? That is the last time I will do that. Anyway, I will see how it goes tomorrow. If it is crapping out again, I will try taking things apart and drying them.
03-30-2004, 07:28 AM
#6
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sounds like it would have been more of a tranny problem then engine...I was gonna suggest checking to see if all your sensors were plugged in. I have a somewhat similar issue w/ mine. Turns out my Inhibitor switch harness was unplugged. Well good luck
03-30-2004, 08:11 AM
#8
hmm... I soaked my whole engine with the garden hose and never had a problem. It started right back up and ran like it always does, even while it was still wet.
Perhaps they got some water in the intake/air filter? Just a guess. I made sure to cover up my air intake before spraying any water in the engine compartment.
Perhaps they got some water in the intake/air filter? Just a guess. I made sure to cover up my air intake before spraying any water in the engine compartment.
03-30-2004, 08:38 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by VGman
Sounds like your MAF to me man. I had the same problem, I washed my engine then the car started doing what your car is doing. Took me a while but i found it it was the MAF.
Miguel
Miguel
Did you have to replace the MAF, or did it just dry out?
03-30-2004, 12:14 PM
#14
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I drove it home for lunch, and it is getting worse again. May have something to do with the heat. What it is doing now is downshifter waaaay earlier than it should, when I am coasting (i.e. foot off the gas). So I will be going 40, then I take my foot off the gas, and coast for a few seconds, then waaaaahhhhh, it downshifts, and my RPM's jump up because of this. Then after it slows down a bit more, waaahhhhh same thing, it downshifts again. So basically it seems to be downshifting too early. What controls which gear it is in?
Here is a pic of the hose that goes nowhere. Does anyone know what this is?
You can see the end of the host near the upper right of the white oil filter. It is a rubber hose, and it has a metal U shaped end. The hose comes out of the black box on the middle of the right side (what is it?). Should this hose be connected to anything? Thanks again.
Here is a pic of the hose that goes nowhere. Does anyone know what this is?
You can see the end of the host near the upper right of the white oil filter. It is a rubber hose, and it has a metal U shaped end. The hose comes out of the black box on the middle of the right side (what is it?). Should this hose be connected to anything? Thanks again.
03-30-2004, 03:44 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 727
that hose is supposed to be like that. Dont worry about it. The 2 harnesses to the right should be your inhibitor switch harness and nuetral safety switch harness. Atleast thats how it is in a VE tranny...should be the same for VG's I would think, but dont quote me. Good luck. BTW, if you need a new/used MAF, I have one from my parts car. Car ran great b4 it was all disassembled. $40+shipping.
03-30-2004, 05:41 PM
#18
i have done my own car and my moms 99 cougar and we havent had any problems and we have cleaned them 4-5 times. maybe water got into you intake some how and messed up you MAF sensor
EDIT: also i noticed that some places leave the the engines running maybe thats what they did
EDIT: also i noticed that some places leave the the engines running maybe thats what they did
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