indd

I have a 1994 GXE Max that's having some potentially biggish problems. Currently trying to decide whether to keep it or trash it.

Part of me wants to spend a wad of cash to fix the hell out of it so I'll have a badass car for the next 5-10 years even if it means losing money in the long run. The other side is saying well, maybe I should suck it up and start making payments on a newish car .

I'm going to have a trusted mechanic look at the car in very fine detail. What general problems can I be expecting other than engine and transmission (both of which I'm having problems with)? What other systems cost a lot to fix that will show up in older cars?

Pervis Anathema

iTrader: (8)

If you drop a mint into this car trying to fix the hell out of it, you will still have mid 16 second car with a weak tranmission, crappy fuel injectors, and did I mention a mid 16 second car?

subs1000w

i would see what the problem is first it might just need a simple tuneup but if its somthing major and you have to pay 60 to 80$ /hour labor id just get a new car because your max will be a big money pit

indd

Well, here's my naive and most-likely-flawed thinking. I can drop $10k into a 2000-ish car, but I'd have to make payments which totally sucks. I was wondering if it's possible to drop a couple grand, and get some more life outta it. I know of the exhaust manifold problem, which just started up for me a few weeks ago. I also have some tranny problems, which was already rebuilt (poorly) once even though I had a cooler put on there. I'd look towards getting a newer car if I were in better $$ shape.

I'm not really into performance; just want a car that drives well, and my max has done me fine for the past 4 years.

indd

Took me max for a spin today, and although the check engine light is on I can still get up to 70-80 no problems. After first gear it works pretty damn well, with the exception of the the "ticking" (exhaust manifold?). I'm hoping it's a very simple problem. Hopefully my mechanic will say something good this week; thanks for the advice all.

thedelman

You can pump about 4 thousand into it and just about have everything that's really important rebuilt or redone. It will then get you where you need to go and even if you had to charge it, your payments will be less time and less money than the $10k 2000ish; which, by the way, will also need some maintenance soon because it is about 5 yrs old.

On the other hand, you will have pumped an additional 4k into the GXE and, like previously stated, have a "mid 16 second" car. But, perhaps that's ok!
I didn't mention it will likely be insured for less than 4k unless you up the premium. I plan to keep my 10 year old GXE. 188K, somewhat weak tranny, but otherwise, gets me where I need to go.

bmw88rider

iTrader: (1)

Kinda to follow this up, I recently pulled my 94 SE out of retirement as a second car. It's cheap to insure since I have it paid off. I only pay an additional 240 a year for the insurance. Sure I spent a little bit of money fixing the small stuff. (About a Grand) But I'm sure now it will go for a long time with little problems. Shoot the thing only has 99K miles on it and now it's running better than ever.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

it all depends on what's wrong with it. most stuff that breaks on these cars is just normal maintenance on any car with 100,000+ miles on it.
CV joints, suspension bushings, brakes, possible transmission rebuild, etc etc. exhaust manifold studs are a strange one (when you look at all the cars on the market anyway), but they're not really a major repair- just a minor one that takes a lot of labor. one of the drawbacks to cramming a V6 into a FWD car. just not much room to work on it. (be glad you don't own a TTZ!)..

it's of course up to you on it, but I'd see what the bill of health is on it before you put it out to pasture. If you were closer to Houston, I'd offer to do the work for you and I'm generall about half what the mechanic will charge.

chrgdRapa

if you love the car enough, stick with it. by what you explained, im having the same problems. im taking it to a mechanic of mine though cause im in college and broke as hell, and my job only covers couple bills. I love mine for the looks and for the fact that it has a lot of potential.

sure, i see these other guys happy with their newer cars, Supra mark IIIs, which are even older, GSRs, bimmers, crappy eclipses, in fact, i only have real respect for 300zx. but if you think of it, you can spend just as much money on those cars and have maxima drive on the same level.

Older cars have cheaper insurance, cheaper replacement parts, and if something happens, God forbid, you kill your maxima in an accident, youll know that you didnt have to make $300 payments on it, and it wouldnt be a brand new car so you wouldnt feel so bad about it. the entire rear of my car was once taken off by a 13 yr old dude who couldnt find his brake pedal or at least thats what he said. but to rebuild the rear cost less that it would on a 2000+ car.

yet another option remains. since you considered getting a 2000+ from a dealer, means you got some money for down payment. you can take those couple grand and go to an auction, and browse for something you think would work better for you. you can easily find a 2000+ car, that has been reposessed of drug seisure for a couple grand. just a suggestion, but it is totally up to you.

indd

After driving it I'm hopeful. Here's the laundry list of things I want to fix if I do keep:

-temp gauge not working
-broken antenna
-driver rear window regulator
-leaky fuel rail
-check engine light (!!)
-new rotors for brakes
-new rotor/cap/wires/plugs

Unfortunately I did have the tranny rebuilt once already, but had a transmission cooler put on it. For some reason I don't think the problem is with the tranny though; it seems to do more with the strange engine problem, which just popped up recently. I think overall that it's still in very good shape - still drives like I got it 4 years ago except now it's somewhat sickly. Hoping it's something small like the EGR or similar.

Also I thought about putting on this Ecotek mod I read on pete's maxima site that supposedly gives like 8+MPG for both highway/city driving. =D
http://www.newshampark.org.uk/bignis...les/ecotek.htm

Anyway, thanks to all. Next time I'm in houston I'll have you fix the max Matt

I'll post back what's wrong when I gets it back..

goon9

iTrader: (13)

I think the only think original on my max is the sub frame, windows(maybe), and engine. But I'm at 5grand in repairs/ upgrades. Probubly take me another 4grand to get it to where I can say it's DONE.

indd

Heh. I may just go that route; it's a nice driving car (at least to me) when it's running well.

Checked the CEL error code, and apparently something is wrong with my EGR (code 32). Doesn't sound too bad, and would explain why it's running so horribly right now.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

the most expensive repair listed on above is your brakes. the rest of it is all fairly cheap to do.
the EGR can sometimes be tricky, but I've found many times the solenoid is bad on it, or the EGR diaphragm is gone (which means you replace the whole EGR from a junkyard)..

-temp gauge, $20
-broken antenna, $25
-driver rear window regulator, $60
-leaky fuel rail, $40
-check engine light (!!), EGR.....
-new rotors for brakes, $120 per axle.
-new rotor/cap/wires/plugs, about $150.

ballpark of $465 in parts.

Phil93MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

To me, it just sounds like an unfortunate problem ur car is suffering just because it is naturally getting older. As long as you've done the proper maintenance and tune-ups on it, what ur running into as far as engine problem is probably something smaller than you think and wouldn't mean junking your car at all. I would spend the money on the items you wanted to fix in the first place and replacing that EGR out and that would save you a LOT more than going the route of junking a reliable car that you've gotten years of good driving out of to this point and coughing up the 10 gs for a new car. I'm willing to bet that all ur looking at for ur car running sluggish is the EGR.

As far as the tranny is concerned, rebuild or new is not gonna be as much as the $10,000 you'll end up spending on a new car

I say, Let the car live!

Shugarhi

iTrader: (1)

just fixed my CV joints at 96,000miles... $400 right there for the front two

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

CV joints are about $150 if you DIY, including 4 qts of new redline (about $40) for the manny tranny guys.

kcidmil

DAMN that was a lot of money, $400. I just got my car back from the shop thursday. And was $420 for clutch and both axles replaced. Rear main, and tranny lube. Of course, I'm good friends with the owner, so I was only charged $250 for labor.

and the axles where only $112 for the pair

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

that's about right.. they didn't have to do any additional labor to replace the axles, so all you paid was parts for them. (they have to remove them to get the tranny out anyway)

alpicone

The axles are relatively easy to replace yourself if you have basic skills. In a place like Autozone, they sell both for $150 for New axles and $120 for remanufactured. Plus they come with a lifetime warranty.

If your tranny needs to have the fliud replaced anyway you can do it now, cause the fliud will come out when you remove the axles, or you can just catch it in a clean container and put it back.

kcidmil

Nissan wanted $500 in labor alone to do what I had done. They wouldn't drop the labor charge off for the axles. That's why I only go there to get my oil changed. And I do that only because I'm to lazy to change my own. That and after working on vehicles all week, I really don't want to come home and work on mine.

thumpyls

maybe someone can post an egr replacement link to help him and others.what are the signs of a bad egr valve? cleaning procedures?

indd

Well, here's the verdict from my mechanic.

-timing belt
-h2o pump
-spark plugs
-spark plug wires
-distributor cap
-rotor button
-PCV valve
-egr valve
-fuel filter
-2xfront brake rotors
-machine 2x rear drum brakes
-brake pads all around
-oil change
-replace leaking oil sending unit (get a Nissan unit)
-4x struts = probably KYB = $65 or so
-recommends 1" lowering springs = no labor as he will be in the vicinity
-recommends new wheels

Total of all this work? $700 of labor

Obviously parts are not included, but it sounded pretty good to me. He said maybe another $100 if the transmission ECU is indeed out. Worst case is $700 for a complete rebuild.

Unfortunately I think I'm going to zap this price up with a lot of the other "little things" that are wrong with the car, but I'm pretty happy with this price overall.

Anyone have any objections? Otherwise forever hold your peace!!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Sounds like maintenance was largely neglected, But other than that you did OK

CamryKilla

doesn't sound too overly bad...just stick with cuz you'll pay much less gettin the max fixed than getting a newer car.

bkea

That doesn't sound bad at all for labor. You pay $350 around here for a timing belt alone.

ronal404

I bought my 1989 SE new before my son was born, selling my Porsche because my pregnant wife had a hard time getting in and out of the car. We brought our new son home from the hospital in that car, joking that we would give him the car when he satrts to drive. My son turns 16 in November and he will get this car.

Now, considering that I take real good care of my cars since he was born the SE has not required any major work but I do replace things when they malfunction due to age, such as water pump ( best changed when doing the timing belt), alternator, power steering pump, and 2 fuel injector. Tranny is fine, exhaust and brakes are replace when needed. The only major expense I am looking at is new struts but even my mechanic says they are still good.

This car is reliable!

thumpyls

yeah keep ur car for budget reasons..i second on the fact that thats prev. main. rather than motor work.

Coochie Coach

In my view, the decision to fix or scrap depends on a couple of things.

1) Can you go out and buy another one like it that's in better shape for less than what you'd put in it? A lot of times you can find older Maximas in great shape for not much money. Often the previous owners did the maintenance already, so a lot of the parts you'll need to buy may already be on them.

I recently bought a cherry '93 SE with 170k miles for $2500. It's in showroom condition. I've been driving it for a month, and all it needs is new struts.


2) What is the general condition of the body, trim and upholstery? Mechanical parts can be swapped out relatively easily, but if the headliners are ripped, the seats are torn and sagging, the carpets are shot, the window seals are sun-rotted or the body is rusted, then all you're ever going to have is an old car, even if it's in good mechanical condition.

If the body is in good condition, then it's usually worthwhile to do mechanical repairs if you intend to keep and drive a car for a long time. Sure, you're paying for repairs, but you aren't paying interest and depreciation on a new car.

Coochie Coach

I would add that I personally wouldn't put more money into a GXE model, but that's just me. Gotta have the sport model with a 5 speed.