White93SE

today I replaced timing belt, waterpump, all the rad hoses, and the thermostat and the car still overheats. any idea why it's doing that?

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

Ok their is not much left, beside the fans????

Are they coming on at the right time or are they coming on at all?

once the car gets warmed up the the low speed fan should come on.

Ok did you try flushing the radiator, and did you flush engine too?

Let me know and I will try to help you out?

Nismo87SE

Try bleeding the coolant system via the air valve on the back of the intake plenum.

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

oh yeah try to check the tempure senser,and the gauge senser too Your gauge could be messing up and the car may not be over heating.
But be careful with that, dont run it hot.Is it boiling over?

White93SE

I was under the imperssion the cooling system bled itself through the coolant overflow bottle?

Where's the air valve on the intake plenum? pic?

alpicone

Its on the top right hand side of the intake. If you are looking at the engine from the front you will see on the back of the intake by the right side a hose coming into the intake. That hose connects to the PCV valve. Right in front of it is the bleeder valve.

Open it up and start the car. Wait till the coolant starts coming out of it. At first it will come in spurts and buble a little. Wait till only coolant and no air starts coming out and then close the valve.

White93SE

sorry the pics may suck, took em at night:

alpicone

edit. pic didnt show

White93SE

got the pic, thanks. i took off the screw but nothing is bubblin?

alpicone

The car should be running. It might takea few minutes for all the air to get out. make sureyou have coolant in the overflow tank so it can pull it in.

White93SE

hmm, had it on for quite a while...very odd.

any otherp ossible causes for the rising temp?

ForceFed

Could be a cracked block or heads. If your car overheated a few good times, there is a good chance that the block is cracked internaly. Are you loosing coolant? Check your oil and see if it looks milky, if so you have coolant in your oil. Of course this is worse case.

White93SE

Coolant doesn't seem to be leaking. I filled it all up today, I'll check tomm and see if anything leaks overnight. Oil looks fine, nothing on the oil cap or dipstick. I don't think any coolant leaked, hopefully the head gasket is OK.

nubiannupe

iTrader: (9)

Except for silverlinekenne, I didn't hear anyone mention anything about the radiator? Maybe it's having 'issues' of it's own...

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

I know the radiator was my problem. Especially if your radiator was replaced in the pass for what ever reason. Mine was replaced after a fender bender, the body shop installed a aftermarket single core radiator. All 3rd gen came with double core OEM radiator that measures 15/16" thick. The aftermarket radiator that was instslled in mine measured 5/8" thick. For years I never had any problem with the cooling system, until a few months ago. Like everyone I check and or replace everything, coolant system flush, thermostat, both high and low speed fans work and still running hot at times. Went to bone yard, grab a OEM radiator and all is well.

MIKE

DigitalDashMax

Your heater core could also be a problem. If your heater core is blocked or has colapsed internally due to age it can impede the flow of coolant throughout the system.

DARHAW-MAX

You may have removed the wrong screw. See highlighted area of image.



This is the coolant bleeder screw that you will need to remove when flushing your coolant.

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

Good point! If you have a fsm it will tell you how to check for block passages

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

Blockage in the heater core should not effect the engine cooling system. Some folks with busted heater cores will temporarily block the coolant flow to the heater core so not to have coolant all over the interior. A block heater core will give you crappy heat in the winter, that's about it.

MIKE

White93SE

My car is on the OEM radiator still, it seems okay when I'm driving which leads me to believe it MAY be a radiator problem. I just sold the car and am trying to make it run for the people who bought it, not necessary but just out of kindness (already did tbelt, wpump, rad hose).

How likely is it that the heater core may be causing problems? Sometimes the heat doesnt' work, is why I ask.

DigitalDashMax

Not really what those people may have done is bypassed the heater core. (by connecting the "in" hose to the "out" hose) so that the coolant doesn't even run through it. If coolant is running through it and there's a block it can screw with the flow of coolant.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

All the coolant flow does not go through the heater core, only a small percentage. If I had to take a guess I would say 10-15% off the coolant passes through the heater core, the other 85-90% passes through the radiator/engine, etc.

The flow of water is just like the flow of electricity, both will take the path of least resistance. If your spark plug wires are shorted out, the spark will short to the block instead of going to the tip of the spark plugs. If your heater core is block, that 10-15% of coolant flow that would normally go through the core will not flow through the radiator/engine.

It's a lot easier for the water to resist a block core and take the path of least resistance, which is the radiator/engine.

Out of curiousity I'm going to try something, I have one of those radiator hose clamp pliers and I will clamp one of my heater core hose (either inlet or outlet) secure the pliers under the hood, drive around for a few days and see what happens.

Another thing to consider for a overheating problem that can't be solved, is to check and see if you have a blown head gasket.

MIKE

White93SE

It may be the rad, didn't think the heater core would cause problems (since you can bypass it anyhow). I'm hopeing it isn't a blown HG. I don't see any milkly colored fluids in the oil cap or when I pull the dipstick. No clouds of white smoke either...