what noise is this? VIDEO enclosed
#41
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Ive never heard the studd noise before, but I have heard the VTC noise before, and I have heard some really bad VTC's...Im willing to bet the missnig studd is the cause...If I were you I would pull the engine, replace all the studds so you won't have to worry about it again, but since its in the front(the studd is missing in the front correct???) you could just replace it being its alot easier to get to than the rear. You should see some gains in power unless there is no leak, which sounds kinda hard to believe missing 1 studd.
I got a question for you. How long has that studd been missing? How long have you been hearing the sound? Are you sure your VTC are even bad? would if you have just been hearing the studd poblem the whole time? That noise from a studd would come at cold start...
I got a question for you. How long has that studd been missing? How long have you been hearing the sound? Are you sure your VTC are even bad? would if you have just been hearing the studd poblem the whole time? That noise from a studd would come at cold start...
#42
Originally Posted by blacks92seAuto
That noise from a studd would come at cold start...
OR
VTCs dont have enough oil at start up if they've been sitting for a while and they tick until they get enough oil pressure
not saying it's not the stud, just something else to think about
#43
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Originally Posted by «§»Craig B«§»
noise at a cold start could come from bad studs and then the engine heats up and manifold expands a little and no more leak
OR
VTCs dont have enough oil at start up if they've been sitting for a while and they tick until they get enough oil pressure
not saying it's not the stud, just something else to think about
OR
VTCs dont have enough oil at start up if they've been sitting for a while and they tick until they get enough oil pressure
not saying it's not the stud, just something else to think about
I know he said it goes away after like 20secs, I forget if he said it comes back at idle and coming to a stop after car is warm....
#44
no the noise doesn't come back after idle. but ifi turn off the car for around 20 minutes or so and start up the car. the sound comes right back. what's the easiest way to replace the stud? it seems a lil hard having the engine be in the V position and the exhaust ports are angled down. of course taking the engine off would be the easiest.. but i dont' have access to an engine hoist. i plan on taking off the radiator. and a/c condensor and all that stuff to get to it. what do you think? and also. when i disconnect the vtc seleniods when the car is warmed up, there is no increase in noise. in addition.. VTC's being grounded, cold starts are still noisy.
BTW craig. i've been lookin at those pictures of your engine swap for the past 3 days and i really wish i had the experience like you. oh yea great car!
Blacks93SeAuto: i'm not sure how long i've been missing that exhaust stud. i couldn't see it because its being covered by the A/C compressor
P.S. what's the correct procedure to remove a broken stud?
BTW craig. i've been lookin at those pictures of your engine swap for the past 3 days and i really wish i had the experience like you. oh yea great car!
Blacks93SeAuto: i'm not sure how long i've been missing that exhaust stud. i couldn't see it because its being covered by the A/C compressor
P.S. what's the correct procedure to remove a broken stud?
#45
another video of it after the car warming upwarmed up engine
#46
That was the first engine I'd ever removed (done trannies several times). It's really not that hard if you have some decent tools and a good crane (cost $150 at Harbor Freight I think).
Matt93SE lives in Houston too. He knows what he's doing and could probably help you out for a pretty reasonable price. Or maybe he could just help you diagnose it in person so you know what you'll need to do.
as for removing a stud, it's pretty simple in concept but harder to do when the engine is in the car because you dont have a lot of room to work
generally people use EZ-OUTs or similar screw extractors
take off exhuast manifold, remove all intact studs (replace them before they break too), drill holes in broken ones (very important to get a straight hole in the middle of the stud, dont wanna make it crooked), use EZ-OUT to pull out the stud, put new ones in
Matt93SE lives in Houston too. He knows what he's doing and could probably help you out for a pretty reasonable price. Or maybe he could just help you diagnose it in person so you know what you'll need to do.
as for removing a stud, it's pretty simple in concept but harder to do when the engine is in the car because you dont have a lot of room to work
generally people use EZ-OUTs or similar screw extractors
take off exhuast manifold, remove all intact studs (replace them before they break too), drill holes in broken ones (very important to get a straight hole in the middle of the stud, dont wanna make it crooked), use EZ-OUT to pull out the stud, put new ones in
#47
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kinda hard to tell, you can hear the VTC when the camera gets close. that other sound tho....Im guessing its an exhaust leak...but it would be alot easier to tell in person. And even tho you ground your VTC, it doesn't mean they won't tick, if they are really bad they will tick all the time, even if the car is warmed and they are grounded.....
#49
just took off my fans/ radiator and manifold. and i saw the broken stud. the gasket was completely melted onto the block and the exhaust manifold. i'm really hoping this is the only problem that's causing the sound. unfortunately i'll have to take off the bumper, re-bar,A/C condensor, the compressor which also means that i'll have to take off the alternator because the stud is right next to the A/C compressor and there's not much room to play. any suggestions? wish me luck. thanks
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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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10-02-2015 08:56 AM