Agh! Its running like it has a loose wire or something! Idling rough, chugging along, and has some plap-plap noises out the tailpipe.

The car has a fairly new NAPA Echelin cap and rotor (both looked okay from underneath I guess...Some white on the metal bits.) and newer NGK copper plugs and NGK wires. I have no idea why its running this way! Help :| It seemed pretty good yesterday...idle was just slightly rough.

I need to get this car to run right *SOON*

 

I'll bet it's an injector.
start by isolating which cylinder is having the problem.
then check it's wire, and plug.
Clean the terminals on the injectors.

 

Did you make sure all of your wires are correct? Are your plugs properly gap? Did you check your timing? Try resetting the ecu by taking the battery terminals off for about an hour.

 

I figured it out using the time-honored pull the wire test.

Pulling the wire off of cylinder #3 makes no difference on how the car runs. I bet the wire is bad. Damn...my first bad set of NGKs

To me this just seems like a bad wire (this has happened to me before twice on different cars, actually) or is it something more sinister? I'm going to check the plug on that cylinder right now.

 

...yess, and the other end of the injector wire(s) also = ECU connector.

Check all sensor outputs.

Only copper conducts electricity: make uself real wires instead of those NGK soothoses.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1


.

 

Measure the resistance, but I'm still betting on injectors.

 

How exactly do I test resistance? I don't think I'm equipped to do that.

The plug looked normal, not burned. Had a slight yellowish-white stuff on it, but so did the plug on cylinder 1, which I pulled out to check.

 

as said, you need a new injector.
Been there, done that.
good luck.

 

Great :\

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention:
It ran funny when I put these new NGK wires on when I got them at xmas time. It started to run just like this. But then I got all the connections nice and tight and stuff, and it ran good...until today. It was wires 1 and 3 that seemed to cause the problem before...thats probably it today. I can't believe I forgot about that until just now.

 

Okay...its probably the injector >:|

I just swapped the wires for 1 and 3 (on the cap and engine, of course) The wires are all good...

IS my engine likely a blue or black mark injector?

 

Did you replace the Plug wires by yourself? did you check the gap on the spark plugs?

if not, make sure you pluged the wires in the correct order other wise you would have a ruff ride.

internetautomar just jumped to the injectors because he has replaced so many on his car. ( I think 5 or so) but that could also be your prob. and they are prety expensive...

so if you think your cap/rotor maybe damged I would suggest replacing it, cap $25 & rotor $5, injector are more expensive and I heard its better to get new than remanufactured/refurbished. ask internetautomar he should sell them.

So check for spark: While engine runing remove a spark plug wire if car runs worse, then that spark plug is working if wire is removed and there is no change in the engines behaviour than you cylinder is down. SO if your cylinder is down could be injector/spark, but you would know what cylinder is the one with the prob. hopes this helps I tend to give info that is not understandable.

 

check the resistance on the injector. Buy a multimeter~~$20-30. Touch each of the injector connectors with the two pins from the multimeter. It shouild be between 10-14 ohms.

 

I did all of this already, check my prior posts.

At this point it has to be the injector I think. No vacuum leaks found, no problems with the ignition parts, and its just #3. I cleaned off the connectors for the injector, and double-checked all of the ignition stuff. Its running a bit better, but still clearly far from right. There's also a lot of plapping and a lot of condensation or water splattering from the tailpipe. I'm going to call around about injector installs now, since I really don't want to do it. I'll probably just end up ordering the injector from a guy in Cali who does new Bosches for $90 shipped, and then probably just have my cousin's repair garage install it.

 

Plug that spark plug and inspect.

 

Plug it? Do you mean pull it?

Already did...read above.

 

Pull the sparkplug

 

I had a bad injector and it was barely noticable-a little vibration and a little lack of power. Although it's a possibility, I would check the darn wires first...Just put back the old ones and see how it works....

 

I tried switiching wires around...all of them worked fine...no matter which one you put on three, it won't change the way the engine runs when you pull it off. And they worked fine on 1.

I can get an injector for 87 bucks shipped and have it installed for about 70. I'll probably just do that.

 

damn...that's dirt cheap for labor...I am just wandering if you'll need new intake gaskets cause this alone is $60-80...Anyways, excellent price...

 

PulsarDriver "I did all of this already, check my prior posts"


when I started typing there was only one reply on your thread
(internetautomar), but since im at work it takes me forever to reply, other people posted what I was typing. I was supposed to be the 3rd reply but im too slow.

Edit: read the new post and yea sounds like its an injector (#3). ill be faster next time

 

Happens to the best of us

I'm ordering the injector now.

I plan to order plenum gaskets too...is there anything else I need?

 

try adjusting your fuel on the IAC, the same thing happened to my car last week, i replaced every ignition compenent and it still ran rough. I adjusted the fuel and now it runs like a top. BTW its under the little black plug on top of the IAC. It may work or it may not but if it does then it saved you $157

 

What am I looking at for Gaskets and stuff? I plan to have my plenum gaskets replaced...anything else I should get?

 

Hi,

don't forgot to order those o-ring seal for the injector to,

 

Check What else?

Should I replace my upper and lower injector holders?

 

I ordered:
1 Bosch injector
o-rings
plenum gaskets
injector holders.

 

never heard of those holders Make sure you have some nice screw drivers because you might have problems unscrewing the plate that holds the injector in place...since you are there already, why don't you change the rubber hoses as well. It will take you extra 15min but why not...When you're unscrewing/screwing the upper/lower intake make sure you do it in the correct order...hmm,can't think of anything else. It takes some time the first time you do it but it's not a big deal...

 

http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...lacement.shtml

 

Holders are also referred to as "insulators" I'm not sure I've ever seena car that didn't have some sort of one, but maybe I don't need it *shrug* They weren't exactly expensive. They're usually part of a seal kit.

 

as mentioned by maximapitko, be very careful on those screws. they are soft and tight.
I used a small locking plier instead of a screw driver, worked well.

 

I'm letting someone else install the stuff Let them deal with it.

 

Ding dong, I coulda saved you shipping.
I have a warehouse in madison.

 

well i guess your not gonna try my idea, jus trying to save you money but seems as if you already ordered your stuff

good luck, i hope it works out for you

 

You could've got me a new Bosch injector for $87 shipped?

 

.

 

Ask nice and I'll throw in some o'rings

 

How about some french fries too??

 

if you supersize the order I will

 

Yay! New injector is in! It didn't run right after I got it back, but thats because the tech hadn't got one of my ignition wires on right. It runs good now, feels smooth from the driver's seat, save for some little idle jiggles.

With the hood open, I can see that he engine isn't running *really* smoothly, and I think the problem might be vac lines. I found one that was clearly fuxx0red and replaced it, which made an improvement. I've uncovered more that could stand replacing, but I have a question.



That arrow is pointed to a black metal canister. The only things attached to it are 2 vacuum lines. One goes to straight to the plenum, but the other has some sort of little round thing along the route of the line. So it goes Canister-->line-->round thing with nipple on each side--->line-->plenum.

What is that little round thing? Some kind of filter? I think if I'm going to replace those lines, replacing that thing probably isnt' a bad idea, eh? But first, what the hell is it?

 

what's the long black thing snaking around your engine?
oh yeah, it's a VG's intake hose