doodoodoo

iTrader: (1)

94 Maxima 165000 miles
I found last weekends that my Maxima swirled to the left (I not sure that it really went left or not, but at least my body can feel this action) when I was accelerating very fast (espically uphill). It was found that the left CV boot was broken and maybe out of grease. Is this prolem that caused the swirling? What else could cause this? I got a quote for replacing the CV boot, it is $140, I guess replacing driving axle will double the price. The mechanic will check out what is the problem later today.
The transimisson was rebuilt on 135000 miles, and back of driver's side was hit by a bus, so I don't want to put any unreasonable amount of money on this car.
I want to replace the CV boot and driving axle if it is not too difficult and if they are causing the problem. When I replaced the timing belt by myself, I found a link to how to replace CV and axle, but now I cann't find it. Anybody has this link or an instruction?

Thanks,

LMaRiE91MaXiMa

I think thats a pretty good price for that job. I paid $185.00 to replace my driver side...and now I'm about to again to replace the passenger. Too bad I dunno how to fix anything on my car myself!

Wiking

Check out bottom of page here:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1

I think there is a nissan TSB for this issue.

Most probably lower ball joints shot, aroun? 20$ plus ½hr work...

doodoodoo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for your quick reply.
The mechanic just called me. He said he could not experience the problem I had, but he found one engine mount is bad, and this could cause the problem. He quoted me $180 for replacing the mount.

Wiking

Its possible. Anyways bad mount has to be replaced. Check out that mount price first. Generally max ½-1 hour job, dunno this one...

Internetautomator?

markmaxima

fix the axle asap

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

i like to call it torque steer

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Quick rundown. The CV in CV shaft stands for constant velocity. It allows the transfer of power through a shaft while retaining the ability of the wheel to steer and react geometrically with the suspension. I have noted with worn cv shafts that there can be some serious "torque steer" feel. As the lubrication(thick axle grease) is lost from the shaft, it begins to bind with friction. If the shaft binds at certain angles, it can have the same effect as torque steer. Power is being transferred unequally to both wheels. Since you know the cv shaft is a problem, replace that first.

BTW. They are not hard to change. With a little mechanical ability and a few tools you can save yourself a little moolah. I was lazy and had a shop do mine. Both sides replaced for about $150 total with a lifetime warranty. How about them apples?
'

kcidmil

I notice the same thing... but not much. My Max tends to burn even and will float downhill. I need some stickier tires... ever since I put that clutch in, it tends to break loose when I take off.

No way I'd pay that much. New axels cost around $70 ea at Carquest. I got mine for $52, with no charge for labor on install. But that was because I was having my new clutch installed. And you have to pull the axels anyway to do that.

doodoodoo

iTrader: (1)

I have the left outer CV boot and the right front engine mount replaced. $60 and $80 for labor. Now, the acceleration is more smooth than before, however, I still experienced a little left jerk. I am not sure at what condition this took place, but all happened at low speed going uphill and when tranny changed from 1st to 2nd gear when I pushed the gas hard. I rarely push gas that hard. I think the driving axles were rebuilt when the tranny was rebuilt. I was charged $70 each by the tranny store for that. I only tested drive for 15 miles, I'll see what is going on with my car.
BTY, the tradeing value of my car drops to only $1000. How much can I sell it?

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

if he paid 150 for install, im assuming that included the axles....and as you say axles are 70 each, it cost him bout 10 bucks labor with a lifetime warranty....id take that anyday.

how is 10 bucks too much??

EDIT: i misread........the CV boot for 140 is bad.....just replace the whole darn axle.

Ninty-two-se

My maxima pulls slightly left when I let go of the wheel, the car also jerks left, and sometimes right when I lay on the throttle... seems unstable when passing someone but is fine when just driving normal(so nobody around here gets to see what the 4dsc can do). When I got new snow tires the guys at sears told me that my control arm bushings are shot. So I'm getting new ones installed on the 30th(not at sears) and Ill tell you if that fixes my problem... I would do them my self but school takes alot of time and the Rx-7 and 280zxt are filling up my work space... So Imma have to let someone else do it... which sucks because he won't modify and install the 4th gen poly bushings!

irwinwd

I'm in the middle of trying to install new cv boots on the left side and a remanufactured shaft on the right. Every nut and bolt on my 92 Max SE feels like it hasn't been loosened in 13 years! It took me 2 1/2 hours just to coax the nuts off the hubs with the help of fire, lube, a 15" breaker bar with a 2' pipe attached and all 200+ pounds of me jumping up and down on the pipe. I was a little worried either the car, the tools, or me were going to get seriously damaged. A couple days and I'm not sure how many hours into it , I have the left side out, all the bolts out of the right side, and I can't get that half of the axle to budge. I'd say if you can get the job done for $300 including parts, get it in writing and drop it off.

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

its too bad you didnt know about liquid wrench before you started that job. or even air tools would have been great for you.......

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Impact gun
Lift
starting it and asking one of the mechs for help and then he finishes it : priceless

LMaRiE91MaXiMa

Just an UNeducated suggestion...

do you guys think maybe he could use an ol fashioned alignment? I know that when you're in dyer need of an alignment, your car will swerve to one side of the the road (could be either right or left)...

but then again...i'm no mechanic.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

i was about to say alignment also.

LMaRiE91MaXiMa

cool...I actually suggested something worthwhile!

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

There is a first for everything

maxima92se

iTrader: (7)

I took my car for an alignment. Soon after taking the car for a test drive, if i floor the gas (pedal to the metal ) the car pulls to the right like a M/F so i did the right thing and took the car back to complain. The guy told me it was because the motor mounts were bad. This week i will be doing the mounts on Thursday and i will take back to alignment to see it makes a difference. I will let you know what i find out. And as to which mount was bad i really dont know. So i am changing all four just to be sure.

Wiking

a lignment is all ways worth while...

TOO often after smbdy had access to u car, alignment is a must. DIY:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/18

LMaRiE91MaXiMa

LOL ...yep there is! WoOhOo Go Me, Go Me!!!

Ok...back to the subject at hand....

doodoodoo

iTrader: (1)

After the left CV boot and right front engine mount were replaced, there is still a little bit of such feeling. Now it was found the left lower control arm bushing is totally bad, replacing the arm costs $98 for labor. I am thinking about replacing the bushing myself, but I have to wait a couple of month. This is not a big deal because I can drive my Nissan Quest, which has >22 mpg, better than my maxima.

karzrfun

I had the same problem and I replaced the lower control arm and that solved the problem for me. Should work for you too.


Good Luck

blacks92seAuto

wow I paid about the same for a remanufactured axle put in on mine...and I paid $80 for a boot to be put on my right axle

kcidmil

$185?????? Wow... they really are everyone. I paid $52 ea for both my axles. And was charged $210 labor for replacement of the clutch, rear main seal, and axles.

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

ummmm torque steer............. nohhhh you dont realy see that till like 190whp

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

That's a joke, right?

kcidmil

.... My 03 P5 has does it.

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Yesterday I changed out my passenger axle, (my drivers was new) and put in som ES bushings. That took care of my torque steer.

lalo

Lift the car up from the front end, with both front tires in the air. see if they have any play (left/right)

Also check if the have play in/out.

There are two Bushings in the rack and pinion that if are worn make your car feel like you have torque steer. I would notice it alot more in the rain and after replacing control arm bushings and ball joint realize this.

to check, have the car lifted as stated above and have some one move tires in/out and left/right. you should see the rack and pinion move! Just a bit but depending on the wear (look thrue driver side down to rack and pinion bushing that is visible). the bushing keeps your rack and pinion in place so if they are bad you car will steer left or right depeding on what side you rack and pinion is leaning towards.

im no expert though...

doodoodoo

iTrader: (1)

Is it easy to replace the bushings? As I mentioned easily, I am thinking to replace the bushing directly without removing the arm from the car. I guess it will be esay to remove it in my case because it appears that only the metal O-ring left and the rubber part has gone. I don't know whether it is easy to insert the bushing.

tripleGmax

iTrader: (8)

i think you just push that fawker in there......

lalo

WELL THE NEW CONTROL ARMS AND BALL JOINTS WENT IN TODAY, AND I REALIZED THE RACK AND PINION BUSHING WAS THE PROB TODAY, SO ME AND YOU ARE ON THE SAME BOAT.



IT DONT LOOK TO HARD THOUGH...

Venumb

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=393442 <<<< Here's my recent experience (symptoms simular to yours) swapping out a half-shaft. Dunno if that is the root of your problem but from what you've mentioned, it sure sounds like a bad half-shaft. Some very good info in this link if plan on swappin out the half-shaft yourself.

doodoodoo

iTrader: (1)

According to my searching, people have to take the bushings and arm to a shop who is will to do this using a press. Some people also mentioned cooling the bushing in order to insert the bushings. I don't have the details, I hope people have experience can help us.

lalo

Im going to bUy the bushing today, both of them combined should be under $20 at autozone.

If you look at the pick closely they kind of look like the swaybar bushings, so even if they are a circle they should be cut horisontaly on one side so you can opened them and place them around the rack and pinion. Hope that makes sense??

Ill buy them today (24hr Autozonoe/O'rielly) and if they bend easily we should be able to rap them around the rack and pinion by just removing the 5 bolts. I tried searching (google, yahoo,askjeeves, even MSN ) but other rack and pinion systems were differect and I could not find intallation instructions for our cars or at least something simalr to our racks.

Wont be able to post a response till tomorow when im at work though, my laptops has been at the repair shop for 2 months... I know, I know

CyMax

iTrader: (5)

I have to agree on the on the torque steer. The first 4 years I had my Probe GT ( 140 or so whp ) it had TERRIBLE torque steer at both 1-2 after a few mods 2-3. Heck, even my fiances old ford escort ( downhill, with a tailwind and a few bottle rockets strapped to the bumper) would experience this condition.