How bad is my tranny ??
#1
How bad is my tranny ??
There's no doubt that my trannys got some problems... I'm just trying to get a feel for how bad they are, and how much longer my car has.
There are 2 main symptoms:
1)
It doesn't seem to slip while in a gear, but when it is shifting, particularly from 1st to 2nd, it can go reeeeaaaaaallllly slooooooowww.. especially if I'm on an incline, and I have the gas stomped, sometimes by the time it locks into 2nd it is almost at the end of the gear already.
2) While driving up slight incline on freeway, it sometimes finds a place where it seems like it's not really sure whether to be in 3rd or 4th, and when it does go to kick down, it shudders pretty bad...
How much longer until this thing blows up ?? And are there any cheaper fixes than a rebuild/replace ?? how can a check to see if one of these fixes might be applicable ??
There are 2 main symptoms:
1)
It doesn't seem to slip while in a gear, but when it is shifting, particularly from 1st to 2nd, it can go reeeeaaaaaallllly slooooooowww.. especially if I'm on an incline, and I have the gas stomped, sometimes by the time it locks into 2nd it is almost at the end of the gear already.
2) While driving up slight incline on freeway, it sometimes finds a place where it seems like it's not really sure whether to be in 3rd or 4th, and when it does go to kick down, it shudders pretty bad...
How much longer until this thing blows up ?? And are there any cheaper fixes than a rebuild/replace ?? how can a check to see if one of these fixes might be applicable ??
#2
Well an auto rebuild is going to cost $1500 or something. If it needs one, it needs one. I guess it could be a shift solenoid or something. Try the stickies for auto info and the autozone online repair link.
I'd probably do a 5-sp swap. About the same cost but much funner
I'd probably do a 5-sp swap. About the same cost but much funner
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,610
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Well an auto rebuild is going to cost $1500 or something. If it needs one, it needs one. I guess it could be a shift solenoid or something. Try the stickies for auto info and the autozone online repair link.
I'd probably do a 5-sp swap. About the same cost but much funner
I'd probably do a 5-sp swap. About the same cost but much funner
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,610
Originally Posted by vansskaterfreek
if the tranny goes, how much work will the car need for an auto to a stick???? alot of work involved????
5-speed tranny
clutch plate and pressure plate
clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder
clutch lines and slave cylinder
tranny brackets
tranny front mount closest to the radiator support
shifter and shift linkages
shifter trim piece to replace auto shifter trim piece (interior)
tranny shield thats between motor and tranny
a whole day to do the swap along with a buddy and some cold drinks and food.
VE tranny '92 - '94 SE's:
all of the above and:
axles and hubs
now i might have left a few things out cuz i did mine a long time ago and can't remember the rest if i had left any out.
also it seems like a lot of work but its not.
#6
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
VG tranny '89 - '91 SE's:
5-speed tranny
clutch plate and pressure plate
clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder
clutch lines and slave cylinder
tranny brackets
tranny front mount closest to the radiator support
shifter and shift linkages
shifter trim piece to replace auto shifter trim piece (interior)
tranny shield thats between motor and tranny
a whole day to do the swap along with a buddy and some cold drinks and food.
VE tranny '92 - '94 SE's:
all of the above and:
axles and hubs
now i might have left a few things out cuz i did mine a long time ago and can't remember the rest if i had left any out.
also it seems like a lot of work but its not.
5-speed tranny
clutch plate and pressure plate
clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder
clutch lines and slave cylinder
tranny brackets
tranny front mount closest to the radiator support
shifter and shift linkages
shifter trim piece to replace auto shifter trim piece (interior)
tranny shield thats between motor and tranny
a whole day to do the swap along with a buddy and some cold drinks and food.
VE tranny '92 - '94 SE's:
all of the above and:
axles and hubs
now i might have left a few things out cuz i did mine a long time ago and can't remember the rest if i had left any out.
also it seems like a lot of work but its not.
#7
and how much would all of that cost? cause i have an auto, which blew just four hours ago
im sure it isnt too much work, but is there a guide? how much would it cost of a mechanic did it? are there any known problems for doing a 5spd swap after original auto goes to ****
im sure it isnt too much work, but is there a guide? how much would it cost of a mechanic did it? are there any known problems for doing a 5spd swap after original auto goes to ****
#9
Originally Posted by 92SE_Dave
There's no doubt that my trannys got some problems... ....1. it can go reeeeaaaaaallllly slooooooowww.. .... 2. it's not really sure whether to be in 3rd or 4th, and when it does go to kick down, it shudders pretty bad...
How much longer until this thing blows up ?? And are there any cheaper fixes than a rebuild/replace ?? how can a check to see if one of these fixes might be applicable ??
How much longer until this thing blows up ?? And are there any cheaper fixes than a rebuild/replace ?? how can a check to see if one of these fixes might be applicable ??
Dont change it yet, I think your tranny is still good. THERE IS REAL cheap FIX, and that is no gimmick. Just DIY, very easy, does not cost anything but work. AFTER that, =if no hlp, listen to autotranny haters info. Well, only if u like maNual...
Just DIY clean all connectors, make sure TCU really gets all voltage =14V during drive. For this, What is needed, basic electrical tune-up.... clic on for details and read:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/10
Somehow ?! the forum hates this message [=autotranny is! excellent]. The box is best technically & for the user I have ever had, like MAXIMA... =only after tuneup. On capacity, its possibly on the lower edge, as some say it was already used on 120hp engines. I suggest add on cooler for hard drive.
I am 90% sure your problems are in the past if u read carefully through. I was there, no problems anymore. NOW Absolut working gearbox, works like a thought.
Surely one Possibility is, that box is ruined already. But the next autotranny will be also, if these basics are not fixed. Is the tranny oil red still?
Still another question is TPS. Autotranny uses it to calculate user input and to decide gear change. Its resistor film is most probably soot filled; clean or replace.
clic on http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6
This is VG RE4F02
Solenoid connector
Measured
pins
w-w....................2.5KOhm(1.2K) Tranny Fluid temp - Cold (Warm)
5-gnd..................10-20Ohm Torque converter solenoid
1-gnd..................2.5-5Ohm Line pressure solenoid
6-gnd..................20-40Ohm Shift A pressure solenoid
7-gnd..................20-40Ohm Shift B pressure solenois
8-gnd..................20-40Ohm Timing solenoid
Revolution Sensor
1-2..................500-650Ohm
2-3..................No connection
1-3..................No connection
#10
Originally Posted by Wiking
Dont change it yet, I think your tranny is still good. THERE IS REAL cheap FIX, and that is no gimmick. Just DIY, very easy, does not cost anything but work. AFTER that, =if no hlp, listen to autotranny haters info. Well, only if u like maNual...
Just DIY clean all connectors, make sure TCU really gets all voltage =14V during drive. For this, What is needed, basic electrical tune-up.... clic on for details and read:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/10
Somehow ?! the forum hates this message [=autotranny is! excellent]. The box is best technically & for the user I have ever had, like MAXIMA... =only after tuneup. On capacity, its possibly on the lower edge, as some say it was already used on 120hp engines. I suggest add on cooler for hard drive.
I am 90% sure your problems are in the past if u read carefully through. I was there, no problems anymore. NOW Absolut working gearbox, works like a thought.
Surely one Possibility is, that box is ruined already. But the next autotranny will be also, if these basics are not fixed. Is the tranny oil red still?
Still another question is TPS. Autotranny uses it to calculate user input and to decide gear change. Its resistor film is most probably soot filled; clean or replace.
clic on http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6
This is VG RE4F02
Solenoid connector
Measured
pins
w-w....................2.5KOhm(1.2K) Tranny Fluid temp - Cold (Warm)
5-gnd..................10-20Ohm Torque converter solenoid
1-gnd..................2.5-5Ohm Line pressure solenoid
6-gnd..................20-40Ohm Shift A pressure solenoid
7-gnd..................20-40Ohm Shift B pressure solenois
8-gnd..................20-40Ohm Timing solenoid
Revolution Sensor
1-2..................500-650Ohm
2-3..................No connection
1-3..................No connection
Just DIY clean all connectors, make sure TCU really gets all voltage =14V during drive. For this, What is needed, basic electrical tune-up.... clic on for details and read:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/14
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/10
Somehow ?! the forum hates this message [=autotranny is! excellent]. The box is best technically & for the user I have ever had, like MAXIMA... =only after tuneup. On capacity, its possibly on the lower edge, as some say it was already used on 120hp engines. I suggest add on cooler for hard drive.
I am 90% sure your problems are in the past if u read carefully through. I was there, no problems anymore. NOW Absolut working gearbox, works like a thought.
Surely one Possibility is, that box is ruined already. But the next autotranny will be also, if these basics are not fixed. Is the tranny oil red still?
Still another question is TPS. Autotranny uses it to calculate user input and to decide gear change. Its resistor film is most probably soot filled; clean or replace.
clic on http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/6
This is VG RE4F02
Solenoid connector
Measured
pins
w-w....................2.5KOhm(1.2K) Tranny Fluid temp - Cold (Warm)
5-gnd..................10-20Ohm Torque converter solenoid
1-gnd..................2.5-5Ohm Line pressure solenoid
6-gnd..................20-40Ohm Shift A pressure solenoid
7-gnd..................20-40Ohm Shift B pressure solenois
8-gnd..................20-40Ohm Timing solenoid
Revolution Sensor
1-2..................500-650Ohm
2-3..................No connection
1-3..................No connection
One thing I noticed very recently is a long rubber tube coming up from the tranny, right up to beside the throttle body, where it does a U... then .. to NOWHERE!?! It just ends, open tube!! I think this may be causing some problems... do you know what this is or what it connects to ?? I've taken a very good look with the filter box out and haven't found where it might connect to, but I know it must be there for a reason, and definately IS tranny related since it goes right to it!!
I will take a good look and locate any other connectors I haven't cleaned yet.. probably try the self diag when i have a chance too. It seems you think the problem is probably an electrical one, and I wouldn't doubt it... Do you think a grounding kit is likely possible solution for this particular problem ??
#12
Originally Posted by 92SE_Dave
One thing I noticed very recently is a long rubber tube coming up from the tranny, right up to beside the throttle body, where it does a U... then .. to NOWHERE!?! It just ends, open tube!!
#13
Originally Posted by 92SE_Dave
Thanks alot for the help, that is some great info. I have already used electrical cleaner on the ECU/TCU and most of the more readily accessible connectors in the engine bay.... Do you think a grounding kit is likely possible solution for this particular problem ??
Questions, give just numbers on 1-3, please:
- Voltage at battery; idling?
- Voltage at TCU; idling?
- Coilpack etc. ohms measured at tranny connector?
- Oil color, qty?
- All ground wiring connectors cleaned?
I dont think a kit would hlp, but then, dont trust me. At least it will not hurt! Few ground wires are imperative in older vehicles... DIY.
#14
Originally Posted by Wiking
Cleanup job: not very informative story if u tell this now... Is your story after/before cleanup?
Questions, give just numbers on 1-3, please:
- Voltage at battery; idling?
- Voltage at TCU; idling?
- Coilpack etc. ohms measured at tranny connector?
- Oil color, qty?
- All ground wiring connectors cleaned?
I dont think a kit would hlp, but then, dont trust me. At least it will not hurt! Few ground wires are imperative in older vehicles... DIY.
Questions, give just numbers on 1-3, please:
- Voltage at battery; idling?
- Voltage at TCU; idling?
- Coilpack etc. ohms measured at tranny connector?
- Oil color, qty?
- All ground wiring connectors cleaned?
I dont think a kit would hlp, but then, dont trust me. At least it will not hurt! Few ground wires are imperative in older vehicles... DIY.
2) Which pins, how do I measure this voltage.. link to info ?
3) I could not locate connectors the same as what you showed there. There were 2 connectors close just above the tranny, one with the same pin configuration as the one on the right side of picture, its ohms on male side did not measure at all when compared to ground, this should be done off.. correct??, or in 'run' position.. or started ?? I did it off completely... The other connector beside it had two pins only, measuring 3.2 ohms on male (tranny side), and 78 ohms on female side. Please let me know proper ignition position for this test.. could my pin config be slightly differnt because I have VE and not VG like you ??
4) Oil was a pale brownish, level was ok.
5) All ground wires I have come across so far are ok (though I haven't been to every single one).
Feedback ??
#15
Originally Posted by 92SE_Dave
...Feedback ??
1 ok
2 scroll up/read -or- clic: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
3 VE has different tranny = different connectors, diff pins... TCU connectror pins the 'same' ...scrollup &see
4 change, should be red. Color tells of slipping.
5 Needs only one...
6 Feedback: read your PM
#16
My 5 speed swap cost about 400$ including crap I broke and had to replace, a few day's lunches for the two buddies who helped me, gas to go to the junkiyard and back way too many times, the few tools I had to buy (25 fscking bucks for an axle nut socket, **** you CarQuest). It took me probably 5 semi leisurely days to do it. Much of that time was spent looking for a gas station that wouldnt card my friend for cigarettes (all under 18 at the time) and wandering through the junkyard going "Woah whats that sweet car doing here?!".
#17
Originally Posted by Wiking
1 ok
2 scroll up/read -or- clic: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
3 VE has different tranny = different connectors, diff pins... TCU connectror pins the 'same' ...scrollup &see
4 change, should be red. Color tells of slipping.
5 Needs only one...
6 Feedback: read your PM
2 scroll up/read -or- clic: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1
3 VE has different tranny = different connectors, diff pins... TCU connectror pins the 'same' ...scrollup &see
4 change, should be red. Color tells of slipping.
5 Needs only one...
6 Feedback: read your PM
So if I change the oil... it will go brownish again ?? Or will help to slip less ?
Thanks for the ideas. I may look into the replacement valve if all of the other checks seem to be ok.
Tranny is still ok for daily driving.. just kinda have to let off the gas a bit to let the thing shift.
#18
Originally Posted by 92SE_Dave
Color tells of slipping ... So if I change the oil... it will go brownish again ?? Or will help to slip less ? ...
2. Brown oil has lost its lubricating capability, in any case, change.
3. Few months ago smbdy bragged here of trannyoil additive: then I called it snake oil, but in this case, why not try it? Says it takes slip away. (I would not use it on working tranny). ..hlp somebody: was ? it lucas brand or smtg.
#19
Originally Posted by 92SE_Dave
There's no doubt that my trannys got some problems... I'm just trying to get a feel for how bad they are, and how much longer my car has.
There are 2 main symptoms:
1)
It doesn't seem to slip while in a gear, but when it is shifting, particularly from 1st to 2nd, it can go reeeeaaaaaallllly slooooooowww.. especially if I'm on an incline, and I have the gas stomped, sometimes by the time it locks into 2nd it is almost at the end of the gear already.
2) While driving up slight incline on freeway, it sometimes finds a place where it seems like it's not really sure whether to be in 3rd or 4th, and when it does go to kick down, it shudders pretty bad...
How much longer until this thing blows up ?? And are there any cheaper fixes than a rebuild/replace ?? how can a check to see if one of these fixes might be applicable ??
There are 2 main symptoms:
1)
It doesn't seem to slip while in a gear, but when it is shifting, particularly from 1st to 2nd, it can go reeeeaaaaaallllly slooooooowww.. especially if I'm on an incline, and I have the gas stomped, sometimes by the time it locks into 2nd it is almost at the end of the gear already.
2) While driving up slight incline on freeway, it sometimes finds a place where it seems like it's not really sure whether to be in 3rd or 4th, and when it does go to kick down, it shudders pretty bad...
How much longer until this thing blows up ?? And are there any cheaper fixes than a rebuild/replace ?? how can a check to see if one of these fixes might be applicable ??
I had some similar simptons (tranny acting funny when moving up an incline), when the only problem was broken nylon bushing on the shift linkage. So don't rush to crazy conclusions, it may be something very simple. There should be a nylon bushing at both ends of the shift cable, one where the cable meets the tranny and the other is above the catalytic converter's heat shield.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fx4five
1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
8
10-18-2015 06:57 PM
RealityCheck
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
10-02-2015 06:34 PM
fx4five
1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
0
10-01-2015 04:58 AM
Andy29
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
8
09-29-2015 05:32 AM