PulsarDriver

And I need to do it this weekend! But, my brake experience is limited to front-wheel pad replacements on minivans :|

Anyone have any helpful hints and such for getting the rotors and rear pads off? I have a FSM, which looks like it'll be helpful. I saw a brake pad thing in the stickies, but he only does his front pads and no rotors.

Scope

iTrader: (5)

If you know one you basically know them all. It gets tricky with ABS. You have the FSM so everything will be explained on what to do. Have fun.

garbury

iTrader: (4)

Rotors and pads are VERY easy. Just take off the wheel, take off the two bolts holding on the caliper (the 17mm ones I believe), hang the caliper on the spring to keep it out of the way, and pull the rotors and replace. You may have to remove those 14mm bolts on the caliper that hold the bracket which holds the pads, so just do that too. Shouldn't take long at all, the biggest pain is jacking the car up and the 5 lugs.

Note your torque specs in the FSM.

VEvolution

What pads/rotors you thinking about getting/or already got?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Howdy stranger

it's the same procedure in the rear as the front.
the only difference being how the piston is retracted, the rear you screw in rather than just press in

kcidmil

speaking of which since you're still on here internetautomar. What do you think would go well with a set of Brembo slots? It's time to change my pads out, and I'm wanting something better than I have now. (which just about anything would be better)

The set I have now makes it sounds like a dumptruck when I brake. So really horrible sounds won't bother me. I just want something that doesn't wear away fast, and has good stopping power.

warrior90t

iTrader: (1)

Pep Boys sells adapters for screwing the pistons in. They attach to a 3/8 drive rachet (like a socket) and are much easier to use than (the Haynes recomended) needle-nose pliers.

kcidmil

ha ha... yeah go out and buy something like that. Easiest way... use a C-clamp without anything in the middle. When you turn the clamp, it turns the piston at the same time. That's how I've always done my rear calipers.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

what pad are you running now?
any pad you use will wear fast because of the slots.

aminus21

iTrader: (14)

kcidmil..... Akebono Pro-Act Ceramics...

kcidmil

Well actually these have done pretty well... I think they were the Napa mid-grades. Can't remember for sure because it was so long ago.

PulsarDriver

stranger!? is that all I get for buying a full tune-up from you?

anyway, this looks pretty straightforward. I've got my left front all disassembled. the hardest part was breaking those torque member bolts loose >:| I also had to use a hammer and a block of wood to get my caliper to swing up so I could take my pads out. the shims were so rusted they just fell apart and fell out

I can't wait to get this thing's brakes properly done. I'm just getting regular ol' Raybestos stuff for brakes. Nothing fancy shmancy. In august I'm bringing a Datsun 210 wagon home from CA, which will become my fun toy/hotrod project, so the Maxima is going to be my reliable daily driver without a bunch of go fast/stop faster bits

PulsarDriver

its technically done, and went smoothly enough!

tommorrow I'm going to have to disassemble the left front and remove the torque member. I made a point to check and re-lube every single slide pin on the calipers...except for the left front, apparently. That side got way too hot on the test drive and when I checked it, sure enough, the bottom pin was totally seized. Dammit.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

1 word : sarcasm
loaded calipers are a g-d send

VEvolution

What if that piston gets stuck on the rear calipers and you can't turn it inwards? Are there any special tools to use to make it turn, or should I just go for a new caliper?

Geerhed

iTrader: (1)

If you can't turn the piston -- either with needlenose or with a caliper tool (the one that's keyed for the caliper-- available at NAPA or the like) it's probably frozen.
Should move easily. Replace it.

PulsarDriver

Both of mine turned with a needlenose, but not *that* easily :| I hope they'll be okay.

As for my front caliper bracket, turns out theres either a piece of metal or a damaged screw jammed/threaded way down in where it sholdn't be and it jammed the whole business up.

hartley

If I stick with stock rotors which pads will give me the best stopping power and fade resistance? Also if I want to change out rotors what is the best rotor/pad combo that is not horribly expensive? I'm confussed about all this mettalic-semi-ceramic stuff.

VEvolution

I hear the Brembo blank rotors and Metal Master Pads are the best combo you can get without going crazy. I went for it a few weeks ago. Got a good deal on it from www.internetautomart.com Havn't installed the rear brakes yet because of caliper issues, but as for the front alone, stopping power has improved alot.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

are you refering to OE (nissan) rotors or just stock replacements?
the brembos that most of us are refering to are stock replacement rotors, that are of better quality than most replacement rotors.

Ceramics are supposed to be quiet, low dust and have good stopping power,
Personally I put a set of raybestos on my van and was less than thrilled with them.
I'd stick with semi-mets myself

hartley

I have decided that I would like to have drilled and slotted rotors on the next brake job so now what combo should I choose. Don't want the fade or warping problems still.

VEvolution

Yeah, but if thats what your going for, be ready to spend some seriose cash, something you originally said you weren't looking for. Those things cost money. Plus if your gonna use them for the street, it will just be a waste of money. You won't get better stopping power just by having them cross drilled and slotted.

hartley

Scrap that idea. It would just be for street and highway driving but I would like more stopping power for the occasional slam on the brakes that is sometimes needed. What would you recommend?

Maxima Man

So what is the best set of pads for a 89 se

VEvolution

Just what I recommended in my previose post. Brembo blank rotors and Metal Master pads from www.internetautomart.com This is the best thing you can get as far as stopping power goes without going BBK from what everyone around here says. I recently got a set, and Im happy. Quiet, powerful performance.

hartley

Thanks

kcidmil

Uhhh Hmmmm... Take a look at my Sig pic... those babies will bring you to a stop much faster than stock. Those are the stock size Brembo slots.

And they just saved my *** this weekend!!!!!!! I could have took out a horse trailer if wasn't for those babies. As far as price goes... $292 shipped for all 4.

Now with anything there is a downside. With the wrong brake pads, your car will sound like a dumptruck. But I've learned to downshift for braking more than using my actual brakes.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

no sig on that post

VEvolution

Well then.. So probably every person that I asked about slotted/cross drilled rotors if it be automotive teacher, guy from Tire Rack(don't know if thats a good source), or even a knowledgeable org member or 2, told me they aren't for stopping power. Just for cooling, keeping the surface clean, and to look "cool".

Unless you go BBK, you won't experience a seriose difference is the general idea I thought that was floating around here.

As for price, that $292 shipped is only for the rotors though. A set of 4 Brembo blanks + Axxis MM pads came out to about $285 without shipping. Now you need pads, which = more cash. I believe that unless you live on a race track where you constantly need to mash your brakes, slotted/cross drilled is a waste.

Please correct me if Im wrong?

kcidmil

You have part of right... but the cooling effect, and cleaning action enable for better brake performance. : Might want to fill that in to those mechanics teachers.

And do this while you're at it... ask them if they know everything about cars. A good teacher will admit they don't know everything. I gained most of my knowledge from a teacher who helped write those auto mechanics books.

If you ever get a chance to look at one of the newer ones. Skim through the beginning and look for the Mr. Frazier from Henry Co. High School, TN. And he admits he doesn't know everything about cars.

Who all besides Matt has actually used Brembo slots? Kind of a one sided opinion if the person is saying a BBK is the only way to feel a difference... when they never felt the use of regular sized slot rotors. That's like saying a CAI for our cars suck when I've only used a HAI.

VEvolution

Well, depends on how you look at it. Cooling effect and cleaning effect help if your racing. Now, if your slamming the brakes once in a blue moon for what ever reason, I don't see how a nice set of performance pads mated with good quality blank rotors won't do the same job as slots on the spot, as long as you havn't been driving with your foot on the brake pedal. If you have, then slots may be right for you.

I don't know man.. Im not saying your completely wrong, because I havn't experienced slots, but Im just going by the info I hear the majority of the time.