Problems started last week
08-29-2005, 12:56 PM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
Problems started last week
Hey guys, my 93 GXE(83K only) started behave abnormally, need your opinions 
Idle speed dropped to around 500rpm, worse with ac on. It was very difficult to accelerate, espically from complete stop. When i cruise at 75, it had no difficulty to maintain the speed and everything is fine. But every time i tried to increase the speed, no matter on interstate(from 70 to 75) or local drive(from 20 to 30), a squealing sound came from under hood(slipping belt?) and a loud noise came from outside the car(bad muffler? at the same time? Am i so LUCKY?). Also, the car shakes a little bit more than it used to, but not much. BTW, looks like the gas milage is normal.
My question is what could possibly went wrong and cause this kind of problem? fule filter? bad sensor? muffler?
PLS tell what you are thinking about. Thanks for go through this looong write
Idle speed dropped to around 500rpm, worse with ac on. It was very difficult to accelerate, espically from complete stop. When i cruise at 75, it had no difficulty to maintain the speed and everything is fine. But every time i tried to increase the speed, no matter on interstate(from 70 to 75) or local drive(from 20 to 30), a squealing sound came from under hood(slipping belt?) and a loud noise came from outside the car(bad muffler? at the same time? Am i so LUCKY?). Also, the car shakes a little bit more than it used to, but not much. BTW, looks like the gas milage is normal.
My question is what could possibly went wrong and cause this kind of problem? fule filter? bad sensor? muffler?
PLS tell what you are thinking about. Thanks for go through this looong write
08-29-2005, 01:13 PM
#2
Have you popped the hood and looked around your engine bay for any noticable problems?
Did you get a engine light when these problems were occuring?[if so check ecu for codes] http://pages.cthome.net/bbachinsky/nissan_ecm_codes.htm
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f5017.jsp
Did you get a engine light when these problems were occuring?[if so check ecu for codes] http://pages.cthome.net/bbachinsky/nissan_ecm_codes.htm
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f5017.jsp
08-29-2005, 01:20 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
Yes, but everything looks fine
The check engine light did not come up so I did not have the code read. I will probably do it tomorrow
The check engine light did not come up so I did not have the code read. I will probably do it tomorrow
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Have you popped the hood and looked around your engine bay for any noticable problems?
Did you get a engine light when these problems were occuring?[if so check ecu for codes] http://pages.cthome.net/bbachinsky/nissan_ecm_codes.htm
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f5017.jsp
Did you get a engine light when these problems were occuring?[if so check ecu for codes] http://pages.cthome.net/bbachinsky/nissan_ecm_codes.htm
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f5017.jsp
08-29-2005, 02:48 PM
#4
Our check engine light doesn't like to come on even when there is a problem. I would bet your fuel injectors are bad. I am having the same symptoms you have. I replaced my fuel hoses last weekend and found that one of my injectors are no good.
08-29-2005, 06:20 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
So i should be able to identify the problem by reading the code if it is the bad injector?
Originally Posted by Will
Our check engine light doesn't like to come on even when there is a problem. I would bet your fuel injectors are bad. I am having the same symptoms you have. I replaced my fuel hoses last weekend and found that one of my injectors are no good.
08-29-2005, 06:56 PM
#7
A bad injector will give a trouble code, yes. Check around the site for the exact codes or check the web. I think bad injector is code 45 (injector leak) and 51 (injector circuit). There is a way to check the injectors with a multimeter -- 'Org user "Wiking" can tell you the exact resistance to look for on the injectors.
Simple thing, but have you checked your air intake system? I recently ingested a mouse nest into my air cleaner and it played Hell with my car. Luckily I checked the air cleaner first and found the offending mess.
Best of luck.
Simple thing, but have you checked your air intake system? I recently ingested a mouse nest into my air cleaner and it played Hell with my car. Luckily I checked the air cleaner first and found the offending mess.
Best of luck.
08-31-2005, 03:57 AM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by zhusst
...wait until katrina pass by
At leas now, ign, electronics has become main issue, read:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/14
09-06-2005, 08:02 AM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
well, I checked the resistance of 4 injectors(the other 2 is difficult to reach), only 1 is good, 2 have a high value of about 60 and one is 0 
also i read about the different color of the injectors from another thread. any way to identify without take everything apart?
also i read about the different color of the injectors from another thread. any way to identify without take everything apart?
09-08-2005, 07:23 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
Sent to a mechanic today, they confirmed that it is the fuel injector. 3 out of 6 are bad now, and they suggest to replace all 6, which will cost $900 
He told me when 3 went bad, the rest will die soon, so better get them done all together, is that right?
Trying to figure out if i can do it my myself. Good thing is I can work from the top and keep the car on the ground. But there are lots of stuff need to be moved and I have not done major work on engine.
So here is the questions:
I have regular tool set, any special tool i need to do this?
Is there big difference between nissan part and after market ones?
Where did you guys get those injectors from(any good supplier)? Is it possible to get if from junk yard? I remember people suggest to get the whole fuel rail instead of take the injector off, but could not find the thread.
I'm gonna file a bankruptcy this month, tuition due, insurance due, my max got me another trouble now
Please me!!
He told me when 3 went bad, the rest will die soon, so better get them done all together, is that right?
Trying to figure out if i can do it my myself. Good thing is I can work from the top and keep the car on the ground. But there are lots of stuff need to be moved and I have not done major work on engine.
So here is the questions:
I have regular tool set, any special tool i need to do this?
Is there big difference between nissan part and after market ones?
Where did you guys get those injectors from(any good supplier)? Is it possible to get if from junk yard? I remember people suggest to get the whole fuel rail instead of take the injector off, but could not find the thread.
I'm gonna file a bankruptcy this month, tuition due, insurance due, my max got me another trouble now
Please
me!!
09-08-2005, 07:41 AM
#17
As I predicted.....
It's very do-able if you are mechanically inclined. If you are a beginner, you will get frustrated and lose your confidence halfway into the job, since this involves removal of the intake plenum and all the hoses and lines attached to it. I had an injector problem last week like I said above, and there was no way in hell I was gonna buy them new, so I got lucky and found an entire rail at the wreckers, where the resistance all tested good, and my car runs like butter now. You should do the same given your money situaton (I too am poor)
If you can't find new, internetautomart is the bet place to buy. In a pinch, you can buy re-man units, but they suck, are not worth it, and there is no guarantee that the coil windings will be good down the road vs. a new unit.
When you do replace, buy the following:
a) New vacuum lines to replace all your old ones (5/32" SAE-approved tubing)
b) New Upper and Lower intake gaskets from Nissan
c) injector to manifold seals (6 from Nissan)
d) 5/16" rubber fuel lines to replace the ones on the rail
Good luck.
It's very do-able if you are mechanically inclined. If you are a beginner, you will get frustrated and lose your confidence halfway into the job, since this involves removal of the intake plenum and all the hoses and lines attached to it. I had an injector problem last week like I said above, and there was no way in hell I was gonna buy them new, so I got lucky and found an entire rail at the wreckers, where the resistance all tested good, and my car runs like butter now. You should do the same given your money situaton (I too am poor)
If you can't find new, internetautomart is the bet place to buy. In a pinch, you can buy re-man units, but they suck, are not worth it, and there is no guarantee that the coil windings will be good down the road vs. a new unit.
When you do replace, buy the following:
a) New vacuum lines to replace all your old ones (5/32" SAE-approved tubing)
b) New Upper and Lower intake gaskets from Nissan
c) injector to manifold seals (6 from Nissan)
d) 5/16" rubber fuel lines to replace the ones on the rail
Good luck.
Originally Posted by zhusst
Sent to a mechanic today, they confirmed that it is the fuel injector. 3 out of 6 are bad now, and they suggest to replace all 6, which will cost $900
He told me when 3 went bad, the rest will die soon, so better get them done all together, is that right?
Trying to figure out if i can do it my myself. Good thing is I can work from the top and keep the car on the ground. But there are lots of stuff need to be moved and I have not done major work on engine.
So here is the questions:
I have regular tool set, any special tool i need to do this?
Is there big difference between nissan part and after market ones?
Where did you guys get those injectors from(any good supplier)? Is it possible to get if from junk yard? I remember people suggest to get the whole fuel rail instead of take the injector off, but could not find the thread.
I'm gonna file a bankruptcy this month, tuition due, insurance due, my max got me another trouble now
Please me!!
He told me when 3 went bad, the rest will die soon, so better get them done all together, is that right?
Trying to figure out if i can do it my myself. Good thing is I can work from the top and keep the car on the ground. But there are lots of stuff need to be moved and I have not done major work on engine.
So here is the questions:
I have regular tool set, any special tool i need to do this?
Is there big difference between nissan part and after market ones?
Where did you guys get those injectors from(any good supplier)? Is it possible to get if from junk yard? I remember people suggest to get the whole fuel rail instead of take the injector off, but could not find the thread.
I'm gonna file a bankruptcy this month, tuition due, insurance due, my max got me another trouble now
Please
me!!
09-08-2005, 07:50 AM
#18
If you're really desperate, I still have 5 good injectors on my rail I can sell to you for cheap. All you would need to do is replace the one that is bad (I would indicate which one, and you could confirm with a multimeter). Let me know; I feel your pain.
09-08-2005, 08:41 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
Thanks Will, I will check my local junk yard first, hope i got same luck as yours.
Did you find the whole rail inside the engine and you have to get it out by yourself or was it ready to go?
about the parts from internetautomart, are they oem ones?
Did you find the whole rail inside the engine and you have to get it out by yourself or was it ready to go?
about the parts from internetautomart, are they oem ones?
09-08-2005, 08:56 AM
#20
I had to pull the rail out by myself. At the wreckers, it's easy because you can cut hoses and wires and be aggressive, whereas when you have to put stuff back, it takes much more care and time.
I'm not sure if internetautomart are OEM or not. I think they are, but regardless, their prices are good, and so are the people. I personally have never had any experience with them, but my Maxima friends have, and I have no problem giving them a good word.
I'm not sure if internetautomart are OEM or not. I think they are, but regardless, their prices are good, and so are the people. I personally have never had any experience with them, but my Maxima friends have, and I have no problem giving them a good word.
09-08-2005, 01:03 PM
#21
the injectors I sell are 100% new they are boxed in a bosch package who just happens to be the one you buy at the deaer.
If you need to buy multiple injectors let me know and I'll work out a package price.
Haven't had any complaints on my injector deals yet.
If you do go the used route, I suggest replacing any o'ring you can see.
Don't go reman though, they tend to be more problematic than used.
also make sure all of the injectors match in dot color.
If you need to buy multiple injectors let me know and I'll work out a package price.
Haven't had any complaints on my injector deals yet.
If you do go the used route, I suggest replacing any o'ring you can see.
Don't go reman though, they tend to be more problematic than used.
also make sure all of the injectors match in dot color.
09-09-2005, 10:45 AM
#23
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6
mechanic in atlanta area
I've been reading the org forums for a while now and am more of a passive user of the forums, but I need some help that I haven't been able to find in previous posts...
My 89 se started overheating last week and, after checking it out, I think my max may have a blown head gasket
. I was wondering if anyone else in the Atlanta area knew of a good mechanic who could check my car out and give a reasonable price on a repair.
Thanks, and sorry for jumping on someone else's thread but I haven't posted enough to be able to create my own.
My 89 se started overheating last week and, after checking it out, I think my max may have a blown head gasket
. I was wondering if anyone else in the Atlanta area knew of a good mechanic who could check my car out and give a reasonable price on a repair.Thanks, and sorry for jumping on someone else's thread but I haven't posted enough to be able to create my own.
09-09-2005, 11:42 AM
#24
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 49
How much did you pay for that complete rail? Did you get a price quote before or after you pull them out?
Thanks
Thanks
Originally Posted by Will
I had to pull the rail out by myself. At the wreckers, it's easy because you can cut hoses and wires and be aggressive, whereas when you have to put stuff back, it takes much more care and time.
I'm not sure if internetautomart are OEM or not. I think they are, but regardless, their prices are good, and so are the people. I personally have never had any experience with them, but my Maxima friends have, and I have no problem giving them a good word.
I'm not sure if internetautomart are OEM or not. I think they are, but regardless, their prices are good, and so are the people. I personally have never had any experience with them, but my Maxima friends have, and I have no problem giving them a good word.
09-09-2005, 11:58 AM
#25
Originally Posted by zhusst
How much did you pay for that complete rail? Did you get a price quote before or after you pull them out?
Thanks
Thanks
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