BOSE system amp bypass?
BOSE system amp bypass?
is there any easy way to bypass the wiring of the stock amp when installing an aftermarket head unit with the stock speakers? i dont want to rewire the speakers completely if i can just bypass them.
the stock bose speakers are 1ohm.
check to see if your HU is 1 ohm stable, if it then you just use the speaker input wires that go into the amp. If not, then drop some money and buy some speakers.
check to see if your HU is 1 ohm stable, if it then you just use the speaker input wires that go into the amp. If not, then drop some money and buy some speakers.
yes, welcome to maxima.org, please read the stickies and there are many useful sites with how-tos that will tell you how to do things like that
(my site has the bypass and I think Matt has the text version somewhere on his)
(my site has the bypass and I think Matt has the text version somewhere on his)
Unplug the harness to rear amp (M152), which is beside the left rear speaker in the trunk. Then look at the diagram, use some wire to short connect IN and OUT for each rear speaker. U need to make total of 4 connections (LH+ LH- RH+ and RH-) and that's it. I did it on my nonbose system, it works great. Not sure about the bose one.
BTW, if you do not bypass the amp, you will have a very loud rear speaker and almost hear nothing from the front. I have been thinking about replacing the front ones since I thought they are bad, untill I figure this out......
BTW, if you do not bypass the amp, you will have a very loud rear speaker and almost hear nothing from the front. I have been thinking about replacing the front ones since I thought they are bad, untill I figure this out......
Originally Posted by zhusst
Unplug the harness to rear amp (M152), which is beside the left rear speaker in the trunk. Then look at the diagram, use some wire to short connect IN and OUT for each rear speaker. U need to make total of 4 connections (LH+ LH- RH+ and RH-) and that's it. I did it on my nonbose system, it works great. Not sure about the bose one.
BTW, if you do not bypass the amp, you will have a very loud rear speaker and almost hear nothing from the front. I have been thinking about replacing the front ones since I thought they are bad, untill I figure this out......
BTW, if you do not bypass the amp, you will have a very loud rear speaker and almost hear nothing from the front. I have been thinking about replacing the front ones since I thought they are bad, untill I figure this out......
As internetautomar said if the head unit is compatible with the speakers ohm wise, then go ahead and bypass, if not then just buy new speakers. You can get some decent sounding speakers for very cheap on e-bay. I got some boss (not bose) 6x9" for only 20.00 shipped. They kick a$$. Although, I must say that I was under the influence that the bose speakers are all 2ohms, not 1ohm. If your bypassing the amps, then your gonna have to do it at each speaker. Each speaker has it's own amp. There are four wires connected to each speaker amp. big red=+power, big black=-power, the other two wires are the actual positive and negatives that hook up the the head unit. you just need to take the smaller wires and connect them to the positive and negative posts respectivley on the speakers and that is all.
The best thing to do though is to just buy new speakers.
The best thing to do though is to just buy new speakers.
You can also get the impedance (ohm) modulator for about $20 on ebay.
But either way you do it I highly doubt your headunit will be setup for 1ohm. Most automotive applications are 8ohm, some high-end are 4.
Usually the headunit is designed for 8 assuming if you're running a high end 4ohm system, you've got an amp capable of reducing that impedence.
redSeraph
'92 SE
226k mi and going strong!
But either way you do it I highly doubt your headunit will be setup for 1ohm. Most automotive applications are 8ohm, some high-end are 4.
Usually the headunit is designed for 8 assuming if you're running a high end 4ohm system, you've got an amp capable of reducing that impedence.
redSeraph
'92 SE
226k mi and going strong!
Wait... Is the deck you're replacing a BOSE CD player or a BOSE Tape deck?
I have a bose tape deck and to avoid doing everything you're doing, I'm trying to find someone like you who has a spare Bose CD player I can swap with my tape deck.
I have a bose tape deck and to avoid doing everything you're doing, I'm trying to find someone like you who has a spare Bose CD player I can swap with my tape deck.
Originally Posted by redSeraph
Wait... Is the deck you're replacing a BOSE CD player or a BOSE Tape deck?
I have a bose tape deck and to avoid doing everything you're doing, I'm trying to find someone like you who has a spare Bose CD player I can swap with my tape deck.
I have a bose tape deck and to avoid doing everything you're doing, I'm trying to find someone like you who has a spare Bose CD player I can swap with my tape deck.
I have a 91 GXE with a BOSE tape deck in it. I've been wanting to get a CD player installed, but after looking around a bit, I guess I found out that the wiring and stuff may cause a problem....
So, what this is saying is that its possible to buy a BOSE Cd player from somewhere and just swap the 2 out? And that would bypass all of the wiring mess?
And if this is an easy possible way of doing it....where would you go to find a BOSE CD Deck anyway?
the 4th Gen Maximas had an optional CD/tape combo. You can find them on ebay for around $20-30.
I think the 3rd gens had the same kinda option but the deck's not as nice as the 4th gens. I found one for $5 on ebay.
You lose your cup holders either way
I think the 3rd gens had the same kinda option but the deck's not as nice as the 4th gens. I found one for $5 on ebay.
You lose your cup holders either way
I know this tread is kind of old, but anyways. I have a 2 year old Kenwood deck that I used to have in my other car. It's a pretty nice deck, but not the top of the line, or anything. I was just able to put it in and use it with the original speakers and amps. It took half an hour or so to figure out all the wiring, but it works great! Sounds real good, both front and rear speakers. No need to unplug the amps. There were I think 3 extra wires that I just left hanging on the car side, and I extra wire that I had to hook up to ACC, so there are 2 ACC wires going to 1 ACC wire on the deck side. Plus Chilton stereo diagram is very clear and easy to understand. I used it and it helped out a lot to figure all these weird Bose crap out.
my '89 SE was broken into when it was previously owned by the other owner and they destroyed all the wiring harnesses on the stock bose audio. after i bought my '89 i decided to wire the Bose system back into it. i installed a new antenna wire since it got damaged and new Bose H/U harness as well since it got cut and there was no harness visible. i also got ahold of the rear brackets for the the Bose 6x9's and their harnesses. apperantly the stock Bose H/U turns on and off but no sound. i figured since i bought the car the previous owner gave me the rear speakers which r Kenwood 6x9's. my question is since i have those Kenwood rear speakers am i able to make the Bose system work with aftermarket speakers or do i have to find stock Bose 6x9's again???
I have a question about the audio system in my 89 maxima I have bose speakers. I am starting to hear a high pitched wining noise in my rear left speaker. I actually heard it in both of my front speakers but got rid of the noise by bypassing the amp and running a new set of wires straight to my head unit. I was wondering, is this a problem with the amps in the speakers or is it a problem with the wiring. I am just wondering if anyone else has had these problems because I do not want to spend the time running all new wires just to start her up and hear that annoying high pitched whining noise.
Sorry for bumping this old thread but this place won't let me start a new one since I don't have enough posts
Sorry for bumping this old thread but this place won't let me start a new one since I don't have enough posts
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