red-line-racer

iTrader: (1)

i want to change my trans oil but i see no pan or filter?? and ne other steps i need to care when changeing it cuz im doin this my self thanks

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

The pan is on the top of the trans....It doesn't have a filter....it has a screen...It is very inaccessable though....A good fluid change will be ok...

red-line-racer

iTrader: (1)

and do i need to replace the screen or what?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I don't think it is accessable without taking the tranny apart...

red-line-racer

iTrader: (1)

so do i just change the transmission fluid thats it right???..or anything else!?!

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Yup....... thats all.....

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

I would recommend just draining the fluid and replacing it. Do not flush! I have heard many accounts of A/T's crapping out shortly after a flush.

CyMax

iTrader: (5)

If it craps out after a flush it was only a matter of time before it would anyway. If you are going to change ALL the fluid in the ATX it must be flushed. Remeber half (if not more) of it is in the TC. If your not going to get it flushed, drain the fluid fill the fluid, drive car for awhile, repeat this (4 or 5 times) till fluid looks like the new.

Wiking

VG A/T oil change; nicer to have 2ppl
...see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15

The almost 8 quart tranny oil may be changed in four steps, A B C D. Each step means taking out 2 quarts of used oil, inserting equal amount (2 quarts) new oil.

- Take out splash cover below engine, drivers side. Find canister big enough, Minimum 3 quarts. Find large hose, 1-3 feet to be fitted into tranny cooler outlet, canister.

A. Drain the tranny, one drain plug, drivers side. Little over 2 quarts flows out. That is about 1/4 of all u oil. Plug it. Add 2 quarts new oil via measurement stick tube...
Now u 'oil reservoir' is full new oil, but "the system" with 6 quarts contains still the used shmuck.

B. Open drivers side tranny cooler hose, radiator bottom. Find, install extra hose to rad, other end to a large enough container. Start engine, run about 15 sec while playing through gears ---> 2 quarts of OLD oil is pushed out by the incoming new oil. Don’t idle after the oil flow stops! Add 2 quarts new oil via measurement stick tube...

Halfway House: 4 quarts oil has been taken out, 4 quarts of new oil has been inserted.

C. Start engine, run again about 15 sec while playing through all gears ---> again 2 quarts of OLD oil will be pushed to u container. Add 2 quarts new oil via measurement stick tube.

D. Start engine, run about 15 sec while playing through gears and the last 2 quarts of old oil be pushed out... now new red oil will be seen flowing out. Your old oil has been pushed out, Tranny System has been filled with new. Add the last missing 2 quarts of new oil via measurement stick tube...


- Re-insert the cooler tube, tighten.
- Let idle for 5 minutes.
- Measure oil level. Add/Take out as necessary.
- Clean the mess, go to shower.
- Compare to FSM 'guide'. Go for a ride. Awesome!

Update NOTE!!! The .org fluid section writeup for 2quarts is no good for VG30E tranny RE4F02A. The qty should between 1 - 1,75quarts/Liters. See Updated Writeup: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24

Mizeree_X

iTrader: (9)

One thing to add that helps is to have 2 empty, clean, dry gallon milk / water jugs handy. Use one to measure how much tranny fluid you have removed, and the other to add the corresponding amount back in. The dipstick requires the car to be running, so this method is an easy way to ensure you haven't over- or underfilled the tranny.

CyMax

iTrader: (5)

Reputable shop- ATX flush 80-100$
Your time to do the same - 2- 3 hrs + materials.
My time > than 20 an hour, especially if the shop can do a better job than drain and fill.

vansskaterfreek

iTrader: (14)

if the fluid has never ben changed, leave it........do not drain and put new stuff in, it will most likely screw it up..... trust me, it just happened to me

Wiking

Pls explain. After ATF change?? (have u got airbubbles in u new fluid?)

"An overfilled transmission may blow fluid out the dipstick tube or the transmission vent. When the level is high enough to get whipped up by the geartrain assembly in the trans, air bubbles develop and upset the hydraulic pressures that are trying to keep the clutches and bands from slipping."
...clip from http://www.drwtransmission.com/info.htm

Best ? advice to keep car in tact: Dont ever start the engine, then the oilpump cannot suck the soot thats piling on the never serviced ATbox bottom.

Idee: How about oil changes along ATF manufacturer guidelines, all new every 30k? Noo soot buildown..

vansskaterfreek

iTrader: (14)

but if the fluid was never changed i heard it would be better to just keep the old stuff in since the seals are "adapted" to the gooky old fluid...i heard that if you put new fluid in there, the seals mess up and tranny starts to slip sooner or later.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Dude you what messed up your tranny....YOU...These transmissions were not designed to be floored at every greenlight and then redlined though every gear.....Especially one with 130,000 miles on it...Quit blaming it on the fluid change,It's always a good idea to change your fluids.....

vansskaterfreek

iTrader: (14)

i know that is why the tranny broke. what i meant was that i have heard that if you have old fluids in there that are 130,000 miles old, you will probably mess up your seals in your tranny. the seals get "adapted" to the old fluid that is what causes slipping i think. i know why my tranny broke, but right after i changed my fluid the dam thing started slipping...it was only like 4 days after...yes it could be a coincidence, but call a reliable tranny place and ask them. i called about 10 places and 8 of them told me i shouldnt have changed my fluids because of that problem

Wiking

What problem? Did yout tranny start leaking as 10 gurus suggested.

Seals:
- Seals keep oil in, 'nothin' to do with function.
- Surely old vaseline will not leak out - even if seals are worn beyond repair.
- Some AT fluids contain seal swelling components which are added to cause them to tighten around axles; ALSO from this viewpoint new oil is better with worn seals

Dino oil mfg's give 2-30k warranty for their oils. Now compare that to 130...

One reason for the tranny slip after change (did u or didnt you change??) is the possibly in sucked air: micro bubbles surface and then sit in the valves. It may take long time for enough microbubbles to gather into a spot where their volume starts to compromise valve function. Bubbles (hydrolocks) in any complicated fluid system may become pain to get out (A/T channel & valvesystem IS very much complex).
If bubbles in...
No hydraulics work if air in: keep engine idling 1/2 hour with 2nd gear on, 1st on, then at different angles. Bubbles are 'released' by steadily pumped warm oil; getting hydrolocks out might be pain. Engine idling oil is heated, steady flow should ease the air problem.

Another fear is the dirt which may start floatin, but that may happen anytime in a never serviced dirty tranny: properly done oil change has no difference in std flow.