Changing CV joint. HELP
#1
Changing CV joint. HELP
Ok, so I am removing the bolt which holds on the hub assembly(36mm), and I am having a heck of a time. Is this a standard bolt or is it reversed thread? I have used a breaker bar for a normal directional bolt and can't seem to get it to budge. I have my wife stepping on the breaks so the axle doesn't move. Please advise.
#2
Originally Posted by avusblue92se
Ok, so I am removing the bolt which holds on the hub assembly(36mm), and I am having a heck of a time. Is this a standard bolt or is it reversed thread? I have used a breaker bar for a normal directional bolt and can't seem to get it to budge. I have my wife stepping on the breaks so the axle doesn't move. Please advise.
You should be going counter clock wise to loosen the nut....Go find a strong piece of pipe to put over the end of the breaker bar to make it longer ....This will increase your torque on the nut.....And some pb plaster won't hurt ...
#3
Originally Posted by avusblue92se
... I have my wife stepping on the breaks...
- use pneumatic bolt opener
- use six feet steel tube extension, neighbors wife hammering on the nut while u dangle in air...
- propane torch/ electric welder to heat expand one side of the nut
- break the nut by grinding /cutting it, buy new
#4
Originally Posted by Wiking
- spray liberally CRC, let it seep in
- use pneumatic bolt opener
- use six feet steel tube extension, neighbors wife hammering on the nut while u dangle in air...
- propane torch/ electric welder to heat expand one side of the nut
- break the nut by grinding /cutting it, buy new
- use pneumatic bolt opener
- use six feet steel tube extension, neighbors wife hammering on the nut while u dangle in air...
- propane torch/ electric welder to heat expand one side of the nut
- break the nut by grinding /cutting it, buy new
#7
Originally Posted by avusblue92se
I put a long pipe on the end of my breaker bar and am turning counter clock wise. I am turning the hubs. Car is in 1st gear. What is going wrong?
Put the wheel/tire back on the car,and drop it down to the ground....then turn the nut......with the car in gear and the e brake on...
#8
Wife was not pressing on the brakes hard enough. Now any suggestions on how to separte the hub from the spindle? I have been hitting it with a peice of wood an a hammer and it doesn't seem to be budging. Thanks for all of the help.
#9
Put a screwdriver into the slots of the rotor, where the caliper sits. So that when you turn it the screwdriver pushes against the caliper and stops the hub from turning. Make sure it's a decent size screwdriver and make sure the screwdriver is pushed as far as possible into the middle of the rotor. Some calipers have a hole in the top of them where you can get to the rotor, I usually out it in there, so there's less movement.
Some might say this is Hillbilly, but it has always worked for me and never had any problems with it.
Some might say this is Hillbilly, but it has always worked for me and never had any problems with it.
#10
Thanks. I got the nut off, the wife was not pressing on the brakes hard enough. Now I am trying to get the hub off of the spindle assembly. I am pounding on it with a hammer and a piece of wood to no avail. Any advise? Thanks.
#12
Hub off the spindal? Which bolts have you undone or what are you planning on doing?
Once you have your outer axle nut off you can just unbolt the three bolts holding the lower control arm to the knuckle and pull the whole knuckle, strut assy outa the way to slide the Axle out
Once you have your outer axle nut off you can just unbolt the three bolts holding the lower control arm to the knuckle and pull the whole knuckle, strut assy outa the way to slide the Axle out
#14
I am just following the chiltons directions. It states to "separate the halfshaft from teh steering knuckle by tapping it with a block of wood and a mallet". It shows a picture with the hub and brake sheild off of the strut assembly.
#18
Originally Posted by 4dscPat
When I did it, I left the car on the ground and had a friend step on the brakes, put PB blaster on the nut, and used a 3 foot cheater pipe. Came right off.
Post #7 pat.....: j/K
#19
Now I am trying to separate the cv joint from the support bracket, and pull it from the tranny. I am going to spray on some wd40; do you think that will loosen it up? I can not get it to move at all. This has been a stressful fix so far.
#20
Originally Posted by avusblue92se
Now I am trying to separate the cv joint from the support bracket, and pull it from the tranny. I am going to spray on some wd40; do you think that will loosen it up? I can not get it to move at all. This has been a stressful fix so far.
#22
When I fisrt did mine they were really hard to seperate right there too, I just pryed it out with 2 Prybars, one on each side and pry back and forth alternating from side to side.
Also putting a prybar to one of the mounting ears and hitting it with a hammer to turn it should loosen it so that you can get them apart
Also putting a prybar to one of the mounting ears and hitting it with a hammer to turn it should loosen it so that you can get them apart
#23
dropping a crow-bar down from the top (behind the back of the engine) and hammering the support bearing bracket (outside portion of the cv shaft) so it will spin was my only solution to breaking the rust.
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