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90 max wont start

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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 08:42 AM
  #1  
CnR's 90 max's Avatar
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90 max wont start

Hey guys my max wont start. I tested the injectors they all read 11.9 ohms to 12.3 ohms except 1 that reads 13.4 ohms. I've replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires in the last 2 mths. I checked the ECU codes, I get a 55 code. The fuel pump is on, the battery is new, but the car will only crank but will not actually start. Anybody have any ideas, Ineed the help.
Old Jan 15, 2006 | 10:53 AM
  #2  
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check adjustable timing, rotate engine to TDC, make sure your rotor is pointed at # 1 cylinder.
Old Jan 15, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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whats the best way to get to TDC, and if rotor is not pointing at cylinder 1 what do i do then
Old Jan 15, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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'93 Maxima won't start either

I am having similar problems i had the dist cap and wires recently replaced, tune up done, new alternator, i was driving on the freeway and it just died its been 7 hrs and it still won't start it tries to turn over but it acts as if its not getting gas. I CHANGED the fuel filter and still no go.
Old Jan 15, 2006 | 02:09 PM
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Start with the basics.
1. Is fuel present in the combustion chamber
2. Is there an adequate spark
Remove a spark plug - the most convenient to get at.
A. Inspect the cylinder. Is it wet with fuel?
If yes: You've drowned the motor by repeatedly trying to start it. Remove all plugs and wait for the motor to dry out. Replace plugs if bad, use platinum.
If no: proceed to test spark.
2. With the plug attached to the coil, as it would be, (except the plug is out of the cylinder) lay the plug on the motor - across a metallic part, not plastic -and crank the motor. Did you see a healthy spark across the plug electrode?
If no: Carefully check again, and if still not, then it's an ignition electrical problem. If you do see a good spark, then:
Spray ether-based engine-start into each cylinder in turn, immediately before replacing each plug in turn. (Try not to breathe the stuff, it is dangerous..)
When all the plugs are in place, spray a little ether start into the intake. DON'T spray it into the MAF!
Then try again. Keep your foot off the gas pedal, just turn the key. Make sure the battery has been freshly charged before trying.
If it still won't start at all, then you will have to proceed to more fundamental matters...
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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TxMaxima93's Avatar
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still no start

If i disconnect the fuel filter and then turn the ignition it should pump gas through the line correct? If the fuel pump is working? If the timing belt goes what are some of the signs?
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 09:47 AM
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[QUOTE=clive]Start with the basics.
2. With the plug attached to the coil, as it would be, (except the plug is out of the cylinder) lay the plug on the motor - across a metallic part, not plastic -and crank the motor. Did you see a healthy spark across the plug electrode?

-----This actually doesnt say all that much about spark in the cumbustion chamber. The amount of pressure on the plug out of the cylinder is atmospheric (not that much)...the pressure inside the combustion chamber is much much higher. high enough that a plug can fire easily out of the chamber but not at all in the chamber if something in the secondary circuit is bad. so this wont really tell you all that much in reguards to if you have spark in the cylinder.

Originally Posted by TxMaxima93
If i disconnect the fuel filter and then turn the ignition it should pump gas through the line correct? If the fuel pump is working? If the timing belt goes what are some of the signs?
------it should pump gas through it but be careful cause the pump puts out quite a few psi and if there are hot parts under your hood then youll have a much bigger problem......
on the other hand a broken or stripped timing belt would make the engine sound as if it had no compression during cranking. It would just kind of wine in a sense. You could pull back the timing belt cover at the top of the engine and look to see if it moves when you crank the engine.....
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 10:26 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by CnR's 90 max
whats the best way to get to TDC, and if rotor is not pointing at cylinder 1 what do i do then
1)jack up right front tire
2)take off tire
3)remove dust shield in fender well
4)take a 27mm socket (I think, might be 24 but just find one that fits) and place it on your harmonic balancer pulley bolt.
5)turn your engine clockwise using a 1/4" rachet and "helper bar" until you, or to make it easier, a friend can see the yellow mark on the pulley line up with the timing mark (looking from the top of the engine bay).
6)take off the three bolts holding the cap on your rotor
check your timing: the rotor blade should be pointing somewhat towards the front right corner light. if you place the cap directly above the rotor, there will be a tick mark on the inside of the cap that connects to the outside #1 cylinder plug wire. if it is pointing a little off, proceed, but if it is 180 degrees off (directly opposite) then
a) your #1 cylinder is at Bottom Dead Center
b) your timing is off 180 degrees.
7) pull the rotor out.
8) adjust the rotating blade inside the rotor to match up with the #1 cylinder mark. you will never get it to sit inside DIRECTLY even with the #1 cylinder, but you will be either a little past it or a little before it. Its better to be a little before it, because if your past it, you can't adjust your timing.
9)reinstall rotor bolt
10)reinstall cap screws, and start up the car. if it doesn't run, keep trying to adjust the timing until it either starts or just pay a mechanic to do it.
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:04 PM
  #9  
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Drivin Maxima other than the timing belt would any of the sensors or electronic parts kill the engine in the middle of driving on the freeway and cause it not to start? I had that happen when the alternator went out the car just died and i ended up replacing 2 batteries and the alternator. Now the car acts as if it WANTS to crank all the electrical things ie. windows, lights, locks, radio they all work it just won't turn over like its not getting fuel.
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:09 PM
  #10  
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Fuse, Fusible link, bad connector
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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From: Huntingdon Valley, PA
Originally Posted by TxMaxima93
Drivin Maxima other than the timing belt would any of the sensors or electronic parts kill the engine in the middle of driving on the freeway and cause it not to start? I had that happen when the alternator went out the car just died and i ended up replacing 2 batteries and the alternator. Now the car acts as if it WANTS to crank all the electrical things ie. windows, lights, locks, radio they all work it just won't turn over like its not getting fuel.
Something like a cam sensor or crank sensor could have the ability i guess to just take a crap on you while driving......and that would lead to either a hard start, no start or really rough run.........

Also if i can remember right the VGs (i cant remember which engine you have) have a fuse for the ECCS which might do the same thing possiblycause that controls the coil in a sense?? i think....not sure though------dont flame too hard on that one guys

but either way..if it is actually cranking but not starting check all fuses and bust out the DVOM and test sensors...(ie. crank, cam, ect, and oil pressure sending unit cause some manufacturers run a seperate circuit through that for the fuel pump to that so that if the sender doesnt see oil pressure, it cuts the pump off to prevent engine damage)
Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:21 AM
  #12  
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Where are you at with the car?

Hey..

You should be able to hear the fuel pump run for about 3-6seconds after turning the key on or turning it over.
It's located under the rear seat cushon (take it out) there's a access panel under it where you can change the pump in about 15min.
You can take the fuel line off at the firewall and put it into a drain pan or bottle to check for volume or flow.
Could be fuel pump relay so before replaceing pump make sure there's a 12volt signal getting there when the key is turned on. 99%time it's pump.

To check timing belt for breakage, take off dist. cap and have a friend turn it over... rotor should turn.. if not belt's broke and possible valve to piston damage may have occured.
It's possible that it skipped a tooth on the belt and still moves the rotor so check the above statements for checking TDC on #1. (other post) by Yicco.

Let us know how it's going,
Scott~
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 03:34 AM
  #13  
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Immobilizer

I was checking through the forum in the detail section where this guy said he cleaned his engine and then the car wouldn't start again. Someone mentioned to him about a immobilizer what is it and would my '93 have one to keep my car from starting?
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 06:25 AM
  #14  
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Seems like you might not be getting spark. Check the ingition coil for any corrosion (it could even be a bad ignition coil), and check the wiring along the passenger side fender. There are some wires there associated with sending sparks in the engine. I suggest this because in 2000, animals built a nest in that area of my engine bay and chewed off wires that didn't allow me to start the car. Fixed the wire, and been good since. G'luck.
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 02:39 PM
  #15  
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I've got my max running, but it seems that i have a bit of a sputter when I give it gas when I'm driving..........
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 02:54 PM
  #16  
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From: Tunasea
Originally Posted by CnR's 90 max
I've got my max running, but it seems that i have a bit of a sputter when I give it gas when I'm driving..........
What did you replace to get it running???
Old Jan 23, 2006 | 02:08 PM
  #17  
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Well I got mine running again, the guys from tuneup masters didnt connect one of the wires all the way when they replaced my wires, distributor cap, and rotator. When i was on the freeway it came loose and that is why the car died, Thanks everyone for your help with my problem
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