geoff.doctor

Well I just bought my 7th maxima in less than a year. Its a 92 SE Auto. Baby Blue, all options, excellent condition leather interior. Thought I had it for $600, it belonged to a woman who's husband got alziemers and could not drive anymore. Then her son said $800 was the cheapest he would go.

Body is spotless, one crack by the fuel door (in bondo). This car has been serviced by a nissan dealer it's whole life, all 260K miles!

So of course I have a question or two;

It has some bondo, you cannot tell by looking at it. It is only by the fuel door and some on the panels under the door. Never owned a car with bondo on it before, but then again never owned a virtually rust free max before either! Should I worry about rust coming back?

Strut tower does have some surface rust near the bottom by the airbox. My 93 VE auto was parted out because strut tower rusted and broke free from the rest of car. Is it worth having this rewelded or should I just scrape off the rust and paint? (its just on the surface on the inside of engine compartment, but I would like to keep it from spreading)

Car does have 260K miles. NO VTC ISSUES!!!! I plan on using toyota filter, is there anything else to do to make sure the engine keeps going strong?

Thats all folks!

kcidmil

I would recommend having the spots with Bondo worked on. It doesn't seal out moisture very well, and can sometimes cause it to be even worse.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

1. take a magnet to the car and see the difference in resistance to coming away from the car at different points, the harder it is to pull away the less filler there is
2. strut tower - use a product like POR-15 or Extends to neutralize the rust that's there and then paint it

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

If the bondo has cracked, it might have been put on too thick. I'd open the trunk and peel back the liner and see what's going on back there. Or get under it and see if you can see any damage under

valz23

iTrader: (1)

Hey! It's me , Val. I used to buy cars on insurance auto auctions, fix hem & resell them. The main thing, just look at the way the car looks itself. Look everywhere, underneath the rug in the trunk, in the wheel well, everywhere! If it looks straight & dry, most likly it willlast as long as a car that never been demaged. I bought a Chrisler Conmquest once ('89 back in '93) couldn't even tell with a magnet that it was wrecked in the rear driver's quater, untill somebody hit me in the same spot. Look the small things, like paint on the robber trim around the windows, or unsightly stuffinside the trunk, or unrneath the hood, always check under the carpet rugs. But even a wrecked car don't mean it won't last, just as long as it's been fixed right. Althrough, I'd reather buy the one without the damage. For exemple: I got a '91 eagle Talon (back in '94, or '95) for $1200 wrecked in the front and the rear quater. My friend owns a shop, so he did all the work for $1300 (he was a very good friend); with all the parts, and a paint job, the car cost me about $4500. The wholeswale backthen was over $12000. In the glovebox, when Iought were recipts for over $4500. It had the wholw engine reworked, and a new turbo. The first time I ran the quater mile, with no expirience, I did 13.5 second run. I never took it back, and I'm sure that now I could do it a full second faster. Too bad I ran this car into some brand new Ford Windstar that was stoped at a red light. I was going aroung 45. I had a bruse on my neck, from the seat belt, for over a month. A junk yard gave me $350 for my butifull car. I vried for months. Still do!

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

geoff.doctor

Its snowing now, I'll get some pics when it stops later today. Inside of trunk is rust free, just a little bit right above the bumper when you open the trunk. Yes, I do believe the bondo was put on too thick. It looks like the previous owner wanted to take car of the rust by the fuel door, and the shop that worked on it put way to much on. Can I just add some more and said it out and paint, or would it be better to break a lot off and fix it with less.

Also, no rust under the back seat either!

The one area that is worring me is that strut tower. Simply because my last car had one rusted out completly (was not even connected to the car anymore). I will upload some pics, it looks like it is mainly surface stuff, and still feels solid under the wheel well. Has anyone re-welded one of these before? Or from looking at pics when they are uploaded, let me know if its even something to worry about.