should I listen to the dealer
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
My Max is seriously sick and the dealer says that it is the MAFS. Because of the price of this thing I'm a little hesitant to go for that. I did the ECU diagnotic and got no codes. When I unplug the MAFS the car will stall out so I'm not convinced that this is the problem. I want to do all the "little things" to see if I can't find the problem myself. I'm talking about checking or cleaning sensors, wires, hoses, etc...but I'm not sure of the best order to do this in. I mean, I don't want to go out and buy a new O2 sensor or ignition wires if that is not the problem. Does the FSM walk you through all of this stuff or maybe even the hayes manuals? I'm willing to spend the money and time to get her back into tip top shape but I don't want to go to the dealer and say "do whatever it takes to fix it, just don't stick it in too hard." Any advice would be mucho appreciated.
#2
Originally posted by deharm72
My Max is seriously sick and the dealer says that it is the MAFS. Because of the price of this thing I'm a little hesitant to go for that. I did the ECU diagnotic and got no codes. When I unplug the MAFS the car will stall out so I'm not convinced that this is the problem. I want to do all the "little things" to see if I can't find the problem myself. I'm talking about checking or cleaning sensors, wires, hoses, etc...but I'm not sure of the best order to do this in. I mean, I don't want to go out and buy a new O2 sensor or ignition wires if that is not the problem. Does the FSM walk you through all of this stuff or maybe even the hayes manuals? I'm willing to spend the money and time to get her back into tip top shape but I don't want to go to the dealer and say "do whatever it takes to fix it, just don't stick it in too hard." Any advice would be mucho appreciated.
My Max is seriously sick and the dealer says that it is the MAFS. Because of the price of this thing I'm a little hesitant to go for that. I did the ECU diagnotic and got no codes. When I unplug the MAFS the car will stall out so I'm not convinced that this is the problem. I want to do all the "little things" to see if I can't find the problem myself. I'm talking about checking or cleaning sensors, wires, hoses, etc...but I'm not sure of the best order to do this in. I mean, I don't want to go out and buy a new O2 sensor or ignition wires if that is not the problem. Does the FSM walk you through all of this stuff or maybe even the hayes manuals? I'm willing to spend the money and time to get her back into tip top shape but I don't want to go to the dealer and say "do whatever it takes to fix it, just don't stick it in too hard." Any advice would be mucho appreciated.
#6
Originally posted by C-Dawg
Where can you get one of these things and is it better than a Haynes or a Chilton's manual?
Where can you get one of these things and is it better than a Haynes or a Chilton's manual?
The Factory Service Manual is definately better than a Haynes or Chilton. Most of the diagrams you seen in those other manuals are taken from the FSM.
A new one costs $77 plus shipping from Nissan.
I have a used 1989 Factory Service Manual in excellent condition for sale.
#7
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that's the one
I emailed you (superdesi) already about that. Let me know. I'm seriously interested. BTW, I asked a professor of mine about the type of MAFS we have in our max. It's called a hot-wire anemometer. He said that nothing should go wrong with such a sensor unless the wire is actually broken or the smallest bit of dust or grease will throw it way out of whack. He suggested trying to clean it. I saw on another thread that water can "drown" the MAFS, but he says not true. I would believe what he tells me...he is a research mechanical engineer for a major firm.
Hey flyry110, thanks for offering but I live in AL. An online parts store told me that any 89-90 MAFS would work so I bought a used one off Ebay from a 94 SE only to find out that the VG and VE engines don't share the same part. So, if anybody needs one for a VE, let me know. The seller said it is good but I would not know. I suspect that the MAFS is not my problem anyway; the engine vibrates pretty bad like it is out of balance or something. The MAFS would not cause that to happen would it?
Hey flyry110, thanks for offering but I live in AL. An online parts store told me that any 89-90 MAFS would work so I bought a used one off Ebay from a 94 SE only to find out that the VG and VE engines don't share the same part. So, if anybody needs one for a VE, let me know. The seller said it is good but I would not know. I suspect that the MAFS is not my problem anyway; the engine vibrates pretty bad like it is out of balance or something. The MAFS would not cause that to happen would it?
#8
Re: that's the one
Originally posted by deharm72
I emailed you (superdesi) already about that. Let me know. I'm seriously interested. BTW, I asked a professor of mine about the type of MAFS we have in our max. It's called a hot-wire anemometer. He said that nothing should go wrong with such a sensor unless the wire is actually broken or the smallest bit of dust or grease will throw it way out of whack. He suggested trying to clean it. I saw on another thread that water can "drown" the MAFS, but he says not true. I would believe what he tells me...he is a research mechanical engineer for a major firm.
Hey flyry110, thanks for offering but I live in AL. An online parts store told me that any 89-90 MAFS would work so I bought a used one off Ebay from a 94 SE only to find out that the VG and VE engines don't share the same part. So, if anybody needs one for a VE, let me know. The seller said it is good but I would not know. I suspect that the MAFS is not my problem anyway; the engine vibrates pretty bad like it is out of balance or something. The MAFS would not cause that to happen would it?
I emailed you (superdesi) already about that. Let me know. I'm seriously interested. BTW, I asked a professor of mine about the type of MAFS we have in our max. It's called a hot-wire anemometer. He said that nothing should go wrong with such a sensor unless the wire is actually broken or the smallest bit of dust or grease will throw it way out of whack. He suggested trying to clean it. I saw on another thread that water can "drown" the MAFS, but he says not true. I would believe what he tells me...he is a research mechanical engineer for a major firm.
Hey flyry110, thanks for offering but I live in AL. An online parts store told me that any 89-90 MAFS would work so I bought a used one off Ebay from a 94 SE only to find out that the VG and VE engines don't share the same part. So, if anybody needs one for a VE, let me know. The seller said it is good but I would not know. I suspect that the MAFS is not my problem anyway; the engine vibrates pretty bad like it is out of balance or something. The MAFS would not cause that to happen would it?
Have you tried pulling codes from the ECM? Because if the MAFs is not reporting accurate air flow to the ECM, it can definately give you a bad idle.
#9
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Posts: n/a
Re: Re: that's the one
Originally posted by superdesi
I have heard of MAFs failing prematurely. The tiniest of dust particle can clog it, despite the mesh screen, which is there not as a filter, but to "straighten" the air flow.
Have you tried pulling codes from the ECM? Because if the MAFs is not reporting accurate air flow to the ECM, it can definately give you a bad idle.
I have heard of MAFs failing prematurely. The tiniest of dust particle can clog it, despite the mesh screen, which is there not as a filter, but to "straighten" the air flow.
Have you tried pulling codes from the ECM? Because if the MAFs is not reporting accurate air flow to the ECM, it can definately give you a bad idle.
I haven't checked my home email yet, but in case you did not get my last reply, I'm really interested in your 89 FSM.
Matt
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