xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for viewing... long story
reply as needed ill be watching it

Ive asked this before kinda or i tild you guys about it didnt ask to do anything to do to it...

anyways

ok my car started to turn into a lemon car lol thats not so bad anymore when i take the time to fix the little things... but this problem happened maybe couple months after i bought it

my clutch,

heading to my car after work... i try to depress it it FALLS staright to the ground and stays. first thing that came to my mind was i had no fluid because this was when my ABS actuator was leaking and it was probably letting air get its way in hydrolics (spelling) next day i bled the clutch got home nothing is wrong. morning comes and it falls again but comes back up, i had to pump it to get enough pressure to depress the clutch from the pressure plate. my step-dad has a friend that is a mechanic who fixed my ABS problem and replaced my master cylinder along with my slave. fixing it he noticed that my slave hydrolic fluid was discolored...

after fixing them my brakes worked again (finally) but i still had my damn problem with the clutch!!! i was mad but happy with my brakes lol. after a while i got tired of my clutch again he fixed it AGAIN... 1 year warrenty didnt fix it again either... another guy looked at it and said it was the pushrod )i think?...) that was leaking and he'll get it fixed... this time it worked... maybe NOT even 2 weeks it went back to me pumping it again... AGAIN!!!!

there is no loss of hydrolic fluid... the slave cylinder fluid is black again but some how there is air getting into my clutch hydrolic lines!!! and it makes me so mad because i have to pump it almost EVERYTIME i shift

im thinking it might be the pushrod coming out too far and letting air in or idk im at a loss i want to fix it myself this time now i might bring it back to them there just buttheads at a little mechanic shop and i came back on the forums to ask if any of you guys had any help or the same annoying problem...

please and REALLY thanks for readying this horribly long story

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

1.Stop letting these people work on your car,they have no idea what they are doing
2.Get a friend to help you and do this..

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

thats the thing i do this NUMEROUS times... by myself once with my stepdad once with my boss once and my little brother once... it all goes back to letting air into the hydrolic system

do you have any PDF's about the hydrolic lines of the car? i could study those and maybe look at them in daylight

or.. is there a way to shorten my pushrod?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I would not try to shorten the pushrod...This is most likely not the problem..You may have got the wrong slave cylinder...

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

wrong slave... hmmmm pretty easy to change out correct? i have the haynes manual 1993-1999

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

i want to know how is the hydrolic fluid getting dirty?...

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Uber easy to change...

Remove hydraulic line,then the 2 mounting bolts.....Put new slave on and bleed the new slave from above instructions..

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

i can just goto autozone and get a slave?... put it on and bleed it... DONE ya?

or is there a specific slave ill have to get like at the nissan dealership...

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Autozone= lower quality,but warranty..It helps to have the original factory part with you at the store so you can visually match them up...

dealer= Many$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ but higher quality,but probably will not warranty the part unless they install it[not sure about the warranty thing]

I would go to napa for the part..

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

ok... ill see what i can do...
OK OK OK sweet thats probably the problem not the plastic piece sweet

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

YESS!!! i see!!! all they changed were the clutch master cylender and the Master Brake Cylinder... OHH!! mann that workshop is retarded! lol you guys are FREAKIN SMART! i had parts that were mixed with names.. sorry... i dont know cars that much

Alex_V

Ive read you should really try to change the master and slave cyl's at once. Id imagine its something to do with getting dirt in the seal, wear in general, and metal getting in the fluid, with completely new fluid. That Im sure would take care of the problem.

~Alex

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

well i bled it and that should get rid of the dirt and clean it all out... then it got dirty again

DaWifey's90

iTrader: (3)

my clutch fluid is the same way...brand new master and clutch cylinders and hose and fluid....a month later the fluid is gray....could just be normal effects of heat...but then again, the fluid in the brake lines don't look like that....hmmm

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

yeah but do you lose pressure?

DaWifey's90

iTrader: (3)

negative...

the clutch hydraulic system is sadly the best operation system on my car right now

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

lol the best operating system on my car is probably... my e-brake? lol everything has some little problem to it... i mean everything

fugi43

iTrader: (3)

Damn, how do you get your scans so clean? Do you have a copy of the fsm on cd? Its a PITA for me to scan that 10 lb hard copy. I'll send ya some $$$ for a burn. Fauk them copyrite laws.

Thanks,

Matt

Kirkula

I have the SAME problem as marhsall...but I've noticed that I only lose pressure when the clutch pedal is all the way up...if I let it come up all the way a few times, I can let it sit overnight without having to worry about losing fluid and/or getting air in the system...but now I'm totally F-ed...no pressure even with a million pumps...and I deliver pizza...and it's my only car...and I work 7 days a week....my life sux, don't it? oh...and those bastards fixed it a million times for me too...haha...*sigh*

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

The hydraulic mechanism for the clutch is simple. If there is any problem with it 99% of the time it will be either the master cylinder, the slave, or the line...All relatively cheap, easy to change parts.

Phoenix

Fugi43, try these:

Chiltons 85-92 Maxima: http://aarc.epnet.com/application/8261/8261.htm

Chiltons 93-98 Maxima: http://aarc.epnet.com/application/8961/8961.htm

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

it is widely availible in .pdf form too

White90

I've got the same problem. I've wondered if it could be the soft line between the master and slave that is expanding when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Kirkula

well I finally got my lazy butt under the car to see what the problem was...slave cylinder was definately leakin. replaced the part and bled out the system...and all is well

89blackse

iTrader: (2)

I hope this isn't too far off topic, but when my car is started up for the first time (doesn't matter what time of day or cold/hot) its near impossible to get the thing into reverse with out a single pump from the clutch. The other gears are fine, it’s only reverse and it only takes one full pump on the clutch pedal.
Is this related to this thread or is this just a known Maxima quirk?

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

i havent looked at my car for a while since in NY right now with my GF's family when i get back to FL ill take another lok at it deff gonna look at that soft line from the slave to the master since both my master and slave cylinders are under 6 months of age

sweet thanks

mike jones

One other point,

I hope this is on the same topic but I was wondering if the slave cylinder is to blame for a popping noise that is heard when you press down on the clutch. The pedal pops about 1/3 the way down when it is depressed. It seems to come from the pushrod or behind the engine firewall. Is the clutch pedal directly attached to the slave cylinder? Does it make sense to change the slave cylinder in order to get rid of the poping noise?

I guess i should try to bleed the system first. Is the bleeder screw accessible from the top (under the hood) or underneath the car?

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

ok

the clutch pedal is attached to the MASTER cylinder which is the on top next to the BIG cylinder which is the brake master cylinder. The slave cyl is located on the tranny and it is visible when you open the hood and you will see a bleeder valve which IS accessible from the top and bottom... but mainly top.

it would be a good idea to bleed it.

there is another bleeder valve, its on a black box which has some winding hard line connecting to the clutch master cyl

sorry for no pics my max isnt with me right now

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

There might be something broken on the clutch pedal mechanism,get a helper to push the clutch in while you are under the dash with a flashlight,looking for a biding/broken springs/other broken parts..

Also,it may be a bad throw out bearing causing the noise,you would be surprised how sounds travel though the car to make it sound like the noise is right beside you,when in actuallity the problem is 5 feet away from where you think it is..

mike jones

Wow thanks guys.

BTW, Happy 2007 for all of you.

I have looked under the dash for obvious noises like moving/broken springs on the clutch pedal. Everything looks fine. I hear the popping noise when the car is running or not, and only at a medium speed of depressing the clutch.

What that means is when I press down slowly, no noise. Fast depressing, no noise, but regular speed as in driving and changing gears, I hear the pop. Just one pop.

What do you guys recommend that I should do? I want to bleed the clutch and I have the haynes manual, but I prefer word of mouth. What is the best way to do this and should I bleed the clutch from the slave cylinder screw or the other screw you explained on the black box?

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

slave to black box the slave again

its what i did

GET ALL THE AIR OUT!

mike jones

Hey that sounds great. i will do this in the next day or so and let you guys know how it went. I may have more questions for you cool guys, so keep it tuned and I'll get back to you all.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Honestly,i do not think bleeding the clutch is going to solve your problem,i say this because the only thing bleeding the lines would help is if their is air present in the the lines,this condition will not cause the "clunk" issue you are experiencing,and as you have stated,the clutch pedal is not broken,so i would suspect the throwout bearing/shift fork/or maybe even a bad master cylinder as the culprit of the noise...

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

i agree with you mygreenmax, im just answering his Q's



ummmm one silly question

do you have aftermarket pedals?

if so re-tighten the screws

does it to me

mike jones

I don't have aftermarket pedals. LOL but good question.

I will try the bleeding procedure. I haven't tried yet due to New Years and all.

I will let you guys know how it goes and the outcome.

morides4chefs

It's the master/slave cylinder.just did mine.

maximagician

[QUOTE=mike jones]Wow thanks guys.
I have looked under the dash for obvious noises like moving/broken springs on the clutch pedal. Everything looks fine.
What that means is when I press down slowly, no noise. Fast depressing, no noise, but regular speed as in driving and changing gears, I hear the pop. Just one pop.

is there little plastic bushings everywhere the pedal pivots\swings? yours might have broken and fallen off and got vacuumed up?

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

I had that pop in my ve. Fluid was also slightly leaking from the slave and there was a lot of resistance in the pedal. If I would have kept the car I would have replaced the: input shaft bearing, flywheel (danza or resurface), throwout bearing and release fork (mad chatter), and basically the entire clutch hydro system in order to get it up to normal operation. That's how many transmission issues it had. I think the click comes from the master cylinder. you can feel it in your foot right?