a) i did help
b) i wouldn't trust the majority of 'experienced members' in here to tell you about forced induction anyhow... there's a select few that know what they are talking about (mainly b/c they have turbocharged their own maximas) but that topic is best let to independent research, or a forum specifically about forced induction. tho there is a turbo/supercharged section on this site, it's generally for build threads and post-installation troubleshooting, not for "what is a turbo and how does it work" type stuff. tho in their stickies they might have links to good info.

never said u didnt help, u did help out bro

hello fellas. my reverse lights dont come on when i put the car in reverse, also only the passenger side brake light comes on..... i replaced all the bulbs. think you know what the problem is... oh! i just replaced the tail light fuse also. i just want my lights to work, i heard the cops would pull you over if only one break light works

did you check the sockets and wiring and harness plug for the left side? does the left side turnsignal work in the rear? manual or automatic tranny?

on the left the regular light works. the signal light too..... only thing that dosent work is the reverse and break light. Oh and its a 1992 maxima GXE. automatic, sohc.

by regular you mean the rear parking lights, right? you probably know that there's 2 filaments inside the same bulb for the 2 1157 bulbs on each side, so yea, the sockets themselves must be getting power, at least on the park-light circuit.
but if you swap bulbs from the working-side to the non-working side the bright filaments suddenly stop working?

the reverse light problem could be an issue with the inhibitor switch, but i think there's a backup lamp fuse too isn't there?

This is more of an FYI than a question, but I can't post a thread.

FYI, since they discontinued the one specifically for the Maxima, the Dorman quickboot CV boot listed for a Stanza of the same year will work on a Maxima. The fit on the large diameter side is tight, you may need someone's assistance to pull it close while you put on the clamp, but it will work. Also, the clamps suck by the way, I used worm gear clamps I got at Advance Auto after the fact when it was apparant the ones it came with SUCKED (I got the boot kit at Auto Zone). I also used black RTV to seal up the joint to be safe, even though it bolts together.

It was a pain in the rear, but after all is said and done, it works gangbusters.

by regular i mean the lights that come on when i cut lights on with the dimmer switch. all the bulbs are new. im gonna go through my fuses and maybe thats the provlem

yea. so that's the 8W (per bulb) circuit for the red bulbs. brake pedal is a separate 27W (per bulb) circuit in those same bulbs. however there is only 1 fuse per system, therefore if any brakelights work at all, the fuse HAS to be intact.

I think I got overlooked XD

KS and vtc clack are common problems. ks takes a little bit of parts remobal to get to (uim and lim i think, plus everything that you have to remove to get them off). as for the VTC, first get the best oil and filter combo you can (see ve filter sticky thread) and then worry about maybe grounding the VTCs

as for tuneup, always use NGK o nissans. bosch has a tendency to suck for us as far as plugs go. of course bosch o2 sensors and injectors are OE.

ntk was oe for the 3rd gen oxygen sensor

Hi guys,
I have read and read on this subject and don't know where to go. I have a '93 maxima with a VG30E. It has had a fluctuating idle and an intermittent "blip" in the idle. Quite obvious when listening to the engine. I have done everything i can think of to try to fix the problem. I have changed plugs (NGK BKR6ES-11) and wires, cleaned throttle body, cleaned iacv, cleaned maf, replaced fuel filter, checked fuel pump, checked resistance of fuel injectors (all around 12-13) and cleaned corrosion off terminals, performed numerous idle relearns, replaced every vacuum hose i can find, tightened fule hoses, replaced air filter, replaced dist cap, checked timing, replaced earth wires to distributer and alternator, adjusted throttle cable and ascd cable. Car has never thrown any codes. Only things i can find that seemed maybe not quite right are:

• coil resistance is 1.8ohms (fsm says should be about 1) and

• when performing idle relearn and pushing the accelerator down to rev the engine up to 2000rpm, the revs seem to drop back back down suddenly a couple of times before i can get them to hold at 2000.

• when coasting at just over 1500rpms i get some slight "hunting" as the revs bounce up to 1800 and back down a few times.

I really want to get this car running smoothly as i have spent alot of time on it. The engine seems good, plenty ofpower and no oil leaks. It has done 240 000 kms.

Does anyone have any more suggestions to fix this problem? I really appreciate your help.

Cheers,

Mark77

My 1st max was a 91 5speed with bose (by the way, "clarion" is stamped on my 2003 maxima's bose system, I guess clarion makes the head unit for bose.

that is more or less what I was planning to do. What does grounding the VTC really do however? And yeah I was thinking iridium DX or is it IX, can't remember, or the E3's if they are really so good. I usually use royal purple but for money's sake was gonna do Pennzoil full syn because i hear good things for it's cleaning power. I used to use K&N oil filters on my VG, but seems VE likes the Mobile 1 better.

it disables the variable valve timing, but i forget which way it locks it (in terms of high-end power loss or low-end power loss). at any rate, the VTC solenoids allow/disallow the oil to flow through the VTC caps, and the oil (or lack thereof) changes the timing of the intake valves, which helps you get more power at both high and low RPM ranges (depending if it's on or off). i can't believe an actual VE owner hasn't stepped in yet to clear up my ambiguity haha.

I see, would this prolong the life of the VTC in terms of not exploding on me? I'm moving soon and cannot really afford to replace it right now, especially with all else being done to it right now. So it needs to wait for the drive to Cali from Washington

Hi - 1989 GXE here. I was doing the driver's side cv axle and noticed that when I pulled it out, it did not match the cv axle I had picked up at NAPA. Furthermore, the axle seal did not come close to being the right size (I know they're not supposed to fit easily but there was no way with this one!). Well, upon further inspection, I noticed that the two sides of the transaxle housing did not match up! (see pics!) Also, when I had gone to drain the tranny fluid, the plug was a 1/2 size rather than the 3/8 the Hayne's manual had stated. HELP! I'm totally baffled at this one. I searched for this one, but was unable to find anything even CLOSE to this!

I'm taking the bus to NAPA to see if they can match this cv axle with one in the back ... will be back later this afternoon. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Also, I would like to ask special permission from the moderators to repost this in the main 3rd Gen forum. Just because of it's completely bizzare nature and the fact that I would like to have as much exposure as possible as to increase my chances of finding somebody who has dealt with this before. Thanks a bundle!

i woudln't worry about the trans case too much. as for the axle what's actually different about it?

Hi guys I just found this website but it looks great, anyways I could use some help.

I have a 91 SE 5sp and unfortunately my driver's side window motor died while it was rolled down 100% of the way. Is there a guide or something anywhere on this sight that'll help me remove the door panel and get the window back up? thanks for any help, I looked around a little bit but couldn't find it if there is one.

bro i checked all of my fuses and they are all good..... do you think the fuses under the hood could have something to do with this. both break lights work now............. but no reverse ligts

its acutally quite easy. my 92 maxima had the same problem use this link to help you out

http://www.a1electric.com/maximareg.htm

Well, I wish I took a picture ... it has a gold ring where the part that sticks into the tranny meets the first "bulge" ... the guys at NAPA told me to try and punch that seal in and see if it works, because they are the same besides that gold ring.

But that leaves me with this question ... my old seal was falling apart and this new one seems to look different. Can anybody tell me which way it goes into the transaxle housing? Picture 1 or picture 2? You guys are awesome. Off to work, will check later!

Pic 1


Pic 2

.

Thanks dude! I am now "air" scratching records while making really cheesy sounds.

If you check a few posts up, you will see pics... my axle seal is significantly larger than the hole it must be pressed into. I went to advance to check if the seal I got from NAPA was wrong and theirs was even larger. Is it possible i have the wrong tranny on my car? Also, the old driveshaft had a gold ring at the end. Please help. I'm desperate. I have tried to force it in. Freeze it. Everything. The seal is bigger than the hole by quite a bit. Thanks!

do you have the part# for the seal you got? if you can take a pic of the tranny from above i can tell you in 2 seconds if it's the right one or not (assuming '89 a/t?)

yes 89 a/t ... part # from NAPA 15310 ... what should the pic be of exactly?

there are some pics of it about 9 posts up.

the top of the tranny. basically if the "pan" is on top it's probably the right tranny. i just couldn't positively identify what tranny it was based on the way the underside of it looked.

like this?

dunno what that top pic is of, but the bottom pic looks like the right tranny

ok thanks. i'm in over my head. either this seal won't fit or i'm an idiot. either way, i've got to call a mechanic. which, of course, totally negates all the effort i did to save the money in the first place. i love being a slave to money. it's great!

i'll look into the part number later on.. too bad i got rid of my dead a/t already cuz at least that way i could tell you what the diameter of the seal was. but see that sort of metal bushing/ring that is in the seal hole on the side of the trans? would the seal fit if that weren't there? it almost looks like it doesn't belong.

that's exactly what the guy at NAPA said! that's funny. well, when i went back there, they still had my old axle in the back and i pryed off that gold ring i talked about way earlier (didn't realize it could come off) and put it on the new axle. fits great. then i put the seal on the axle and clicked the whole thing in the tranny. no pushing in of the seal, but the seal "seats" perfectly on that metal bushing thing you were just talking about. i'm out of options, so i'm now putting it all back together and will fill it with tranny fluid. i'll keep u guys posted! who knows, stranger things have happened, right?

um... you're supposed to put the seal in the tranny, then the axle into the tranny.... you put the seal on the axle and pushed it all in together? or did i misread?

quick questions...
whats the name of those black plastic tubes that cover the wires in the engine bay?
where can i buy some?

you're right. there's a reason they call us newbies. but, as for your earlier post where you said that piece didn't look like it fit there ... you were right. i took a small flat head screwdriver and tapped and tapped and tapped and popped it out. see pics. it was the metal inside ring of the old seal. that's been my problem all along! i feel like a dumb (insert creative noun here). so i'm about to tap in the seal into a hole that it will fit into - finally. thank god!!!

so just one question remains ... do i put this gold ring that came off the old axle onto the new one, or do i skip that? see pic 1.
Pic 1

pic2 - that seal i popped out that's been causing all this trouble

you can if you want. i think it's just sort of a dust shield, to sort of guard the lip of the seal so dirt and sand can't get up there.

cool. i'll go ahead and do it. you're really cool dude. thanks so much for your help. when i get to 15 posts, i may post my axle seal experiences in the main board in case somebody else runs into the same problem. that way, they might be saved a bundle of time. that old seal really looked like part of the tranny ... it was a camoflauged seal.

ok, i'm off. thanks again for your newbie patience. each trial helps build knowledge. peace. chris

Hey, can anyone give me some tips on removing the windshield wiper arms? Paint is flaking off them and it's starting to look nasty, but I can't seem to figure out removing them.