*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 34
the car has bright headlights and dim corners from the factory... that's just the way the car looks. and like i said already, bright corners are as bright as highbeams almost, and can blind oncoming traffic... hence why i suggested to wire them to come on bright with the highbeams.... not all the time. because at no point in your existance as a human being on earth should you EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER put looks ahead of safety. so i pray to god that you are being smart and doing a proper HID-spec projector retro and not just tossing HID bulbs into stock headlights. because with all the glare that causes, it inevitably will end up blinding someone at just the wrong point a curve and sending them into a tree or ditch or something when they can't see the road ahead of them.
on that topic, 5900k is gayer than Richard Simmons. 4300 is pure white, and if you peer in closely at your computer monitor, you'll notice that there's nothing brighter than white... so stick with that.
on that topic, 5900k is gayer than Richard Simmons. 4300 is pure white, and if you peer in closely at your computer monitor, you'll notice that there's nothing brighter than white... so stick with that.
Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 192
From: Dinuba california
Went to Autozone on thursday, gave them the part number you gave me (V512016) had to order it. It came in yesterday.... wrong part. The wheel hub only had 4 wheel studs...
Autozone called the manufacturer, they said they dont make the 5 wheel stud model anymore, where can I get one?
Autozone called the manufacturer, they said they dont make the 5 wheel stud model anymore, where can I get one?
you can get one off of ebay, and if its not the same size you can always return it if the seller if kind enough to take back his products
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4
From: Queens, NY
fuel filter
How do you know if a fuel filter is bad? I have a 92 GXE and it seems to be missing at idle and hesitates when accelerating. I had the Run-rite fuel system cleaning at STS and still having the same problem. My mechanic says I need to have the fuel injector changed. What are your opinions? Thanks!
Last edited by peterliu; Sep 16, 2009 at 02:42 PM.
How do you know if a fuel filter is bad? I have a 92 GXE and it seems to be missing at idle and hesitates when accelerating. I had the Run-rite fuel system cleaning at STS and still having the same problem. My mechanic says I need to have the fuel injector changed. What are your opinions? Thanks!
anyways if you DO need a new injector, spend the $115 that a NEW Bosch injector costs, because remans (aka cleaned up reboxed USED injectors) and Pythons (new, but cheap crap) have a very high out-of-the-box failure rate, and an even higher fails-way-earlier-than-it-should rate. that's because of the manner in which our injectors fail.. the wire inside gets corroded and eventually breaks... they don't often get clogged. Especially if you are going to have a mechanic do the work, you don't want to have to pay him labor again to pull it apart and replace a reman/Python again in a month or three when it inevitably fails.
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 20
From: DuBois, PA
Hi everyone, i'm back after about a couple of months and have gotten some work done on my '93 maxima se auto. So far i've gotten:
-new platinum spark plugs
-new fuel filter
-new air filter
-a used MAF
-fixed my exhaust leak by getting a warpspeed y-pipe
-cleaned up EVERY connector and ground wires in the engine bay with electrical contact cleaner.
Now i've clocked up around 6000 miles since i bought this car back in May '09 and it still hits this mysteriously rev limiter at around 3000-4000rpm...or so i think because the tach doesn't work!(it happens at about 25mph in 1st gear). And the moment this fake rev limiter would appear my car would slowly start to die as this limiter keeps on falling until its barely above idle and then the car dies and wont start even though the starter is turning the motor over.
So i went through the forum and decided to check my coil packs and sure enough they were cracked beyond belief. so i sealed them up with hi-temp red RTV silicone sealant and the car was running fine until it started doing the same shananigans again!!
Now i also read that the fake rev limiter can come on when the ECU goes into fail-safe because of the MAF. So i checked the ECU for codes and it showed code#55(suprise suprise!). Then I got a used replacement MAF and it still acts up like it always does. But this time after checking the ECU again i get a #34 knock sensor code. Now i dont think that a knock sensor can cause a car to just die but i might be wrong.... Another thing is that throughout the whole 6000miles i've driven the max it has NEVER has the check engine light gone off! And if all of this wasn't weird enough.... the fake rev limiter keeps on shifting around! which further shows that its not the ECU going into fail safe. i'm not precisely sure at what the rpm range is but in 1st gear it can be anywhere from 15mph to 30mph. Once in overdrive the car wouldn't go over 55mph on the highway! all these symptoms just dont add up!
Then I further read through the forums and someone had a similar problem and that it could be a bad ECCS relay. so i take it out and the brown relay next to it(the one for the anti teft/ignition) and the car can still start and runs wonderful!! WTF? i mean is this car possessed or something? how can the car run without the ECU? Needless to say its VERY frustrating. Any suggestions as to what it could be?
-new platinum spark plugs
-new fuel filter
-new air filter
-a used MAF
-fixed my exhaust leak by getting a warpspeed y-pipe
-cleaned up EVERY connector and ground wires in the engine bay with electrical contact cleaner.
Now i've clocked up around 6000 miles since i bought this car back in May '09 and it still hits this mysteriously rev limiter at around 3000-4000rpm...or so i think because the tach doesn't work!(it happens at about 25mph in 1st gear). And the moment this fake rev limiter would appear my car would slowly start to die as this limiter keeps on falling until its barely above idle and then the car dies and wont start even though the starter is turning the motor over.
So i went through the forum and decided to check my coil packs and sure enough they were cracked beyond belief. so i sealed them up with hi-temp red RTV silicone sealant and the car was running fine until it started doing the same shananigans again!!
Now i also read that the fake rev limiter can come on when the ECU goes into fail-safe because of the MAF. So i checked the ECU for codes and it showed code#55(suprise suprise!). Then I got a used replacement MAF and it still acts up like it always does. But this time after checking the ECU again i get a #34 knock sensor code. Now i dont think that a knock sensor can cause a car to just die but i might be wrong.... Another thing is that throughout the whole 6000miles i've driven the max it has NEVER has the check engine light gone off! And if all of this wasn't weird enough.... the fake rev limiter keeps on shifting around! which further shows that its not the ECU going into fail safe. i'm not precisely sure at what the rpm range is but in 1st gear it can be anywhere from 15mph to 30mph. Once in overdrive the car wouldn't go over 55mph on the highway! all these symptoms just dont add up!
Then I further read through the forums and someone had a similar problem and that it could be a bad ECCS relay. so i take it out and the brown relay next to it(the one for the anti teft/ignition) and the car can still start and runs wonderful!! WTF? i mean is this car possessed or something? how can the car run without the ECU? Needless to say its VERY frustrating. Any suggestions as to what it could be?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9
From: Kent WA
Hey i just recently bought my 93SE 5spd. She's wonderful everything i thought it'd be coming from my 90 gxe auto. It's got a few issues though right VTC makes alot of noise, not sure how to gauge that but bad is bad either way I assume. also knock sensor is bad and these both worry me alot. the knock sensor is hopped so the motor doesn't drag ***, but that's no fix. Other then car is clean needs alot of cosmetic work though.
It has a really nice radio in it i gave him 200$ for the radio worth way more then that, I know more about the radio then the car! so much different from my 90 or so it seems anyways. but i paid 1500$ for the car hope that's a good deal, I just know these are getting harder and harder to find and i didn't want this one to pass me buy, i'm a huge 3rd gen lover, 1st and now 2nd car i've ever owned for more then a week, my ironc was in another state, it don't count.
so my big question is, within some sort of reason, what is the best tune up this baby can get. i used to use the best bosch on my VG and such I can get from nappa but i hear that's not the way to go, i alos used K&N oil filters and Royal Purple oil...motor never gave me trouble in the two years i owned the 90 and I drove it like i stole it, more or less, atleast until injectors started to go, then I parted ways with her due to moving.
i would have put this in it's own thread as i'll have hella question as i liek to do all the work myself. I fixed every problem i could afford on my 90 including replacing the tranny, and that was hard work there. i'd appreciate it if i can start my own thread!
It has a really nice radio in it i gave him 200$ for the radio worth way more then that, I know more about the radio then the car! so much different from my 90 or so it seems anyways. but i paid 1500$ for the car hope that's a good deal, I just know these are getting harder and harder to find and i didn't want this one to pass me buy, i'm a huge 3rd gen lover, 1st and now 2nd car i've ever owned for more then a week, my ironc was in another state, it don't count.
so my big question is, within some sort of reason, what is the best tune up this baby can get. i used to use the best bosch on my VG and such I can get from nappa but i hear that's not the way to go, i alos used K&N oil filters and Royal Purple oil...motor never gave me trouble in the two years i owned the 90 and I drove it like i stole it, more or less, atleast until injectors started to go, then I parted ways with her due to moving.
i would have put this in it's own thread as i'll have hella question as i liek to do all the work myself. I fixed every problem i could afford on my 90 including replacing the tranny, and that was hard work there. i'd appreciate it if i can start my own thread!
If you don't have a moonroof then you get the joys of using a hose to try to find the leak point
when my 3rd gen had rust (before i took it off and fixed it) there was rust where the top of the windshield hits the roof, whenever it rained water would leak through and drip on the inside on my drivers seat and floor
do you have a sunroof? then check the drains at each corner. If you don't know how then search sunroof in this section. (technically it's a moonroof but that is another story).
If you don't have a moonroof then you get the joys of using a hose to try to find the leak point
If you don't have a moonroof then you get the joys of using a hose to try to find the leak point
i wudv never thought it cudv came from there cuz my seats dont get wet. ill check it this week, thanks
i dont have rust spots on the windshield it might be from the sunroof like homeboi said.
another problem the previous owner put tints on it like 10 yrs ago lol their old and peeling off, how do i remove them. especially the back windshield cuz that one is completely off but now its blurry and i cant see crap out of it
what can i use to remove all that crap with out damaging the thermal strips?
what can i use to remove all that crap with out damaging the thermal strips?
a couple things to check tho are the condition of your a/t fluid, and also checking for corrosion on all of the eletrrical connectors under the hood, cuz a poor connection can cause unexpected symptoms, sometimes in seemingly unrelated systems
Last edited by CapedCadaver; Sep 18, 2009 at 05:33 AM.
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 121
hello i was told to post these questions in the 3rd gen area...
1) what are the largest sizes of the factory sway bars (the one I have in the rear is about 14mm)
2) sizes of the front and rear speakers?
3) do the grilles interchange (anyone wanna trade a chome one for a factory white/pearl one)
4)do they make polyurethane front n rear bar bushings in the aftermarket?
5)what aftermarket manuals have the most detail? (hayne or chiltons?)
6) i read in one of the threads "not" to have your injectors flused due to the design,but what about addtives you put in the tank?
7) how do you feel about "top end" cleaning?
8) are the mufflers interchangable SE vs GXE (let alone the se louder/freer flowing)
I have a 1993 GXE 132K btw.
thanks for your time.
Ernesto
1) what are the largest sizes of the factory sway bars (the one I have in the rear is about 14mm)
2) sizes of the front and rear speakers?
3) do the grilles interchange (anyone wanna trade a chome one for a factory white/pearl one)
4)do they make polyurethane front n rear bar bushings in the aftermarket?
5)what aftermarket manuals have the most detail? (hayne or chiltons?)
6) i read in one of the threads "not" to have your injectors flused due to the design,but what about addtives you put in the tank?
7) how do you feel about "top end" cleaning?
8) are the mufflers interchangable SE vs GXE (let alone the se louder/freer flowing)
I have a 1993 GXE 132K btw.
thanks for your time.
Ernesto
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 96
hesitation before kicking down? or hesitation before making any power once it's already kicked down? videos are almost ALWAYS better than verbal descriptions, so if you have a camera that can take videos (and maybe a passenger with a steady hand) that will give us a better idea what the problem might be.
I'll get a vid up in next couple of days to show what I mean.
hello i was told to post these questions in the 3rd gen area...
1) what are the largest sizes of the factory sway bars (the one I have in the rear is about 14mm)
2) sizes of the front and rear speakers?
3) do the grilles interchange (anyone wanna trade a chome one for a factory white/pearl one)
4)do they make polyurethane front n rear bar bushings in the aftermarket?
5)what aftermarket manuals have the most detail? (hayne or chiltons?)
6) i read in one of the threads "not" to have your injectors flused due to the design,but what about addtives you put in the tank?
7) how do you feel about "top end" cleaning?
8) are the mufflers interchangable SE vs GXE (let alone the se louder/freer flowing)
I have a 1993 GXE 132K btw.
thanks for your time.
Ernesto
1) what are the largest sizes of the factory sway bars (the one I have in the rear is about 14mm)
2) sizes of the front and rear speakers?
3) do the grilles interchange (anyone wanna trade a chome one for a factory white/pearl one)
4)do they make polyurethane front n rear bar bushings in the aftermarket?
5)what aftermarket manuals have the most detail? (hayne or chiltons?)
6) i read in one of the threads "not" to have your injectors flused due to the design,but what about addtives you put in the tank?
7) how do you feel about "top end" cleaning?
8) are the mufflers interchangable SE vs GXE (let alone the se louder/freer flowing)
I have a 1993 GXE 132K btw.
thanks for your time.
Ernesto
Why dont you try searching for the answer to your questions first.I guarantee they are here already...over and over and over again...
hello i was told to post these questions in the 3rd gen area...
1) what are the largest sizes of the factory sway bars (the one I have in the rear is about 14mm)
2) sizes of the front and rear speakers?
non bose is 4x6 front and 6.25 rear
3) do the grilles interchange (anyone wanna trade a chome one for a factory white/pearl one)
yea
4)do they make polyurethane front n rear bar bushings in the aftermarket?
i think some people use mustang swaybar bushings (foxbody?) that match the appropriate diameter of the bar
5)what aftermarket manuals have the most detail? (hayne or chiltons?)
http://boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/1994/
6) i read in one of the threads "not" to have your injectors flused due to the design,but what about addtives you put in the tank?
try bg44k
7) how do you feel about "top end" cleaning?
8) are the mufflers interchangable SE vs GXE (let alone the se louder/freer flowing)
i think the dual tips are purely cosmetic, but you can interchange them if you want
I have a 1993 GXE 132K btw.
thanks for your time.
Ernesto
1) what are the largest sizes of the factory sway bars (the one I have in the rear is about 14mm)
2) sizes of the front and rear speakers?
non bose is 4x6 front and 6.25 rear
3) do the grilles interchange (anyone wanna trade a chome one for a factory white/pearl one)
yea
4)do they make polyurethane front n rear bar bushings in the aftermarket?
i think some people use mustang swaybar bushings (foxbody?) that match the appropriate diameter of the bar
5)what aftermarket manuals have the most detail? (hayne or chiltons?)
http://boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/1994/
6) i read in one of the threads "not" to have your injectors flused due to the design,but what about addtives you put in the tank?
try bg44k
7) how do you feel about "top end" cleaning?
8) are the mufflers interchangable SE vs GXE (let alone the se louder/freer flowing)
i think the dual tips are purely cosmetic, but you can interchange them if you want
I have a 1993 GXE 132K btw.
thanks for your time.
Ernesto
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
Im not a new member but i am new to a maxima. my girlfriends has a 91' and she wants to make some more performace out of it. i was thinking of doing headers and exhaust but i though i should check with any one on here first about what to start with. Maybe intake first? Or do you guys have some ignition tricks up your sleeves? any help is appricated
Im not a new member but i am new to a maxima. my girlfriends has a 91' and she wants to make some more performace out of it. i was thinking of doing headers and exhaust but i though i should check with any one on here first about what to start with. Maybe intake first? Or do you guys have some ignition tricks up your sleeves? any help is appricated
Y-pipe first is most people's opinion
UDP is another good mod if you can find one.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3
From: the D
i need more!!!!!!!!!! i got plug wires, spark plugs, filter and i need more hp what should i do i cant find any parts online i dont care if my car looks goos i just need it faster ... i got a upper and lower intake manifold and im gunna port and polish them ... but i need more what should i do ..no motor swaps want to keep the same motor ... all i see people have is wires and filters
a little insight ???
Ok , so me and my wife are obviously new to the site and had a couple questions for some maxima ownwers. We are looking to buy a maxima and there are two different ones we are looking at. One is a 96 5-spd ( but it has cooling problems). The other is a 92 that looks fairly good being a 92. the 96 is only a thousand dollars and the 92 is like 1500. To make a long story short are the performance part for the 92 going to be harder to find since its older ? I really just want some honest solutions. Like for example if the 92 has some kind of underlieing problems v/s the 96. which is more likely to be quicker and cheaper to fix up , etc...
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
im looking for a new splash guard for the front passenger that covers the belts n such, are the VG n VEs the same? i cant seem to find it on courtesyparts.com, alittle help would be great thanks!
Ok , so me and my wife are obviously new to the site and had a couple questions for some maxima ownwers. We are looking to buy a maxima and there are two different ones we are looking at. One is a 96 5-spd ( but it has cooling problems). The other is a 92 that looks fairly good being a 92. the 96 is only a thousand dollars and the 92 is like 1500. To make a long story short are the performance part for the 92 going to be harder to find since its older ? I really just want some honest solutions. Like for example if the 92 has some kind of underlieing problems v/s the 96. which is more likely to be quicker and cheaper to fix up , etc...
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
but fwiw the 3rd gen community is leaps and bounds better than the 4g community (buncha
over there 
)
Last edited by CapedCadaver; Sep 20, 2009 at 12:55 PM.
the 95-99 has a substantially larger performance part selection than the 89-94 does. if the 92 is a DOHC esp a 5spd (black trim, silver valve covers w/ 24valve sticker, white gauges) then it's a better overall buy than the 96 in terms of handling and build quality, tho the 96 might be a little quicker since the VQ30DE does have a bit more torque than the VE30DE. However if the 92 is a SOHC (chrome trim, red valve covers, black gauges) then the 96 is probably a better buy (better performance, more aftermarket support, and the SOHC's automatic tranny is unreliable), as long as the cooling problem is just the thermostat or something.
but fwiw the 3rd gen community is leaps and bounds better than the 4g community (buncha over there )
but fwiw the 3rd gen community is leaps and bounds better than the 4g community (buncha
over there )Man , i greatly appreciate the advice. Im still tring to get the guy with the 92 to send some pictures (craigslist). The 96's cooling problem is the plastic is cracked at the top of the radiator. I have actually found another 3rd gen for 1200. its red (crimson blaze). It also seem to be in pretty good shape. I've searched for 3rd gen photos on here but cant find that many. Any suggestions ?
Thanks again..
Man , i greatly appreciate the advice. Im still tring to get the guy with the 92 to send some pictures (craigslist). The 96's cooling problem is the plastic is cracked at the top of the radiator. I have actually found another 3rd gen for 1200. its red (crimson blaze). It also seem to be in pretty good shape. I've searched for 3rd gen photos on here but cant find that many. Any suggestions ?
Thanks again..
Thanks again..
no comments are allowed in that thread... ONLY pics. most of those cars are modified, but some are still stock.
i seen a pic of a 3rd gen maxima with these tubes running behind the bumper where the fogs go like in this (not a 3rd gen, just using pic as an example)
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/2...projectors.jpg
can someone plz help me out cuz i want this same set up.
any threads on it and how to do it.
thanks
*fixed link
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/2...projectors.jpg
can someone plz help me out cuz i want this same set up.
any threads on it and how to do it.
thanks
*fixed link
Last edited by nyc_ink; Sep 21, 2009 at 10:38 AM.
i seen a pic of a 3rd gen maxima with these tubes running behind the bumper where the fogs go like in this (not a 3rd gen, just using pic as an example)
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/2...projectors.jpg
can someone plz help me out cuz i want this same set up.
any threads on it and how to do it.
thanks
*fixed link
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/2...projectors.jpg
can someone plz help me out cuz i want this same set up.
any threads on it and how to do it.
thanks
*fixed link
that's intercooler piping...... why on God's earth would you want to put that on a non-turbocharged car????? and if you had to ask, then it's apparent that you know nothing at all about forced induction.... so grab a book or twenty about turbocharging and tuning and engine thermodynamics, spend a year researching it, then see if it's something you want to do.
nevermind i just thought it was a different type of cold air intake lol
thanks bro