*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
#6202
Still no sparky...
[quote=BenStoked;7919800]only thing regarding pressure would be the pressure regulator, it's manual not electric. you might wanna make sure the rotor is spinning (take the cap off, have somebody watch it while cranking)
Ok, I've replaced the ignition coil and ignition transformer. Rotor turns when key is turned, I have primary voltage to the rotor but no secondary (for spark). I have voltage coming into the ignition coil and the ignition transformer. I checked for secondary spark (ignition) according to the book (lt. green wire connected to light tester connected to + battery terminal + key turn = no intermittent light). My only option now is the ignition resister/condenser which I have power to and 2.2k Ohms Resistance. No way to check the capacitor side of it, do these normally go bad? Is there any other reason why PCM wouldn't be sending a spark to the plugs? Can the PCM itself be bad?
Ok, I've replaced the ignition coil and ignition transformer. Rotor turns when key is turned, I have primary voltage to the rotor but no secondary (for spark). I have voltage coming into the ignition coil and the ignition transformer. I checked for secondary spark (ignition) according to the book (lt. green wire connected to light tester connected to + battery terminal + key turn = no intermittent light). My only option now is the ignition resister/condenser which I have power to and 2.2k Ohms Resistance. No way to check the capacitor side of it, do these normally go bad? Is there any other reason why PCM wouldn't be sending a spark to the plugs? Can the PCM itself be bad?
Last edited by birddog002; 02-26-2011 at 08:52 PM.
#6203
[quote=birddog002;7949248]
u might have a broken timing belt.
only thing regarding pressure would be the pressure regulator, it's manual not electric. you might wanna make sure the rotor is spinning (take the cap off, have somebody watch it while cranking)
Ok, I've replaced the ignition coil and ignition transformer. Rotor turns when key is turned, I have primary voltage to the rotor but no secondary (for spark). I have voltage coming into the ignition coil and the ignition transformer. I checked for secondary spark (ignition) according to the book (lt. green wire connected to light tester connected to + battery terminal + key turn = no intermittent light). My only option now is the ignition resister/condenser which I have power to and 2.2k Ohms Resistance. No way to check the capacitor side of it, do these normally go bad? Is there any other reason why PCM wouldn't be sending a spark to the plugs? Can the PCM itself be bad?
Ok, I've replaced the ignition coil and ignition transformer. Rotor turns when key is turned, I have primary voltage to the rotor but no secondary (for spark). I have voltage coming into the ignition coil and the ignition transformer. I checked for secondary spark (ignition) according to the book (lt. green wire connected to light tester connected to + battery terminal + key turn = no intermittent light). My only option now is the ignition resister/condenser which I have power to and 2.2k Ohms Resistance. No way to check the capacitor side of it, do these normally go bad? Is there any other reason why PCM wouldn't be sending a spark to the plugs? Can the PCM itself be bad?
#6204
Ok, I've replaced the ignition coil and ignition transformer. Rotor turns when key is turned, I have primary voltage to the rotor but no secondary (for spark). I have voltage coming into the ignition coil and the ignition transformer. I checked for secondary spark (ignition) according to the book (lt. green wire connected to light tester connected to + battery terminal + key turn = no intermittent light). My only option now is the ignition resister/condenser which I have power to and 2.2k Ohms Resistance. No way to check the capacitor side of it, do these normally go bad? Is there any other reason why PCM wouldn't be sending a spark to the plugs? Can the PCM itself be bad?
#6206
Hey guys, I'm not really familiar with Nissan. I'm working on a customer's car. It's a '92 Maxima with a 24 valve 3.0 and a 5 speed manual. When the guy brought the car to me, it had a blown up engine and it didn't run, I'm not sure if there were any problems beforehand, I just put an engine in it and I'm having problems with it.
Here's what I've done, I've replaced the knock sensor, the coil packs, O2 sensors, fuel injectors, new spark plugs, fuel filter, new vacuum lines. I looked on here how to get codes, and I turned the little thing on the computer and got a code for a shorted MAF sensor. So I unplugged it and it runs better. I replaced the sensor and I've disconnected the battery to reset everything. It still runs the same. All ground wires are hooked up. I've double checked all connections. It runs exactly the same. It dumps fuel into all of the cylinders to the point of flooding the engine and fouling the plugs. It still runs better with the MAF sensor unplugged, but what are the chances of a new MAF sensor is also defective? Anyway, I'm looking for some input because right now I am at a loss. I'll try a new MAF sensor since it's guaranteed for life. But I doubt that will be the fix. Thanks in advance for input!
~Lincolnmania
Here's what I've done, I've replaced the knock sensor, the coil packs, O2 sensors, fuel injectors, new spark plugs, fuel filter, new vacuum lines. I looked on here how to get codes, and I turned the little thing on the computer and got a code for a shorted MAF sensor. So I unplugged it and it runs better. I replaced the sensor and I've disconnected the battery to reset everything. It still runs the same. All ground wires are hooked up. I've double checked all connections. It runs exactly the same. It dumps fuel into all of the cylinders to the point of flooding the engine and fouling the plugs. It still runs better with the MAF sensor unplugged, but what are the chances of a new MAF sensor is also defective? Anyway, I'm looking for some input because right now I am at a loss. I'll try a new MAF sensor since it's guaranteed for life. But I doubt that will be the fix. Thanks in advance for input!
~Lincolnmania
#6207
if you are concerned about rubbing something, you are dropping way too far to be driving it, anyway, esp. on stock wheels.
#6210
Lmfao your speedometer will be off and you could risk damaging suspension. If you want smaller side walls get a size or two bigger rim so that tire wall reduces.
#6212
Easy? not really
worthwhile? not at all
3rd gen has much better seats than the 4th gen and they mount differently as well.
#6214
so if i was going from a tan fabric interior from the 3rd gen to the black leather 4th gen interior... it would be worse? or should i just get a custom leather kit on the interior?
#6215
#6218
#6219
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Houston (The land of opportunity, Texas
Posts: 7
I would check the motor mounts. Bad mounts could cause movement of the engine/Trans assy to make the shifting rod going into the trans out of range to engage the gear.
I had a similar problen with a 86 Honda Prelude and 5th gear. I will assure you that a motor mount is a lot cheaper than a trans tear down. have someone watch the engine for movement while slightly reving the engine in gear with the brakes on.
Don't try to break anything, just enough to see if the engine is moving up/down. You could do it alone by jacking the engine at the front/back and sides to check for abnormal motion.
Good Luck.
I had a similar problen with a 86 Honda Prelude and 5th gear. I will assure you that a motor mount is a lot cheaper than a trans tear down. have someone watch the engine for movement while slightly reving the engine in gear with the brakes on.
Don't try to break anything, just enough to see if the engine is moving up/down. You could do it alone by jacking the engine at the front/back and sides to check for abnormal motion.
Good Luck.
#6220
I have a 91 maxima se vg30e 5 speed. I have had to change a couple injectors in the last year. They have gone out 1 by 1 and are really easy to point out which is bad. I have even replaced 1 with a sentra injector out of ga16de enignes. Has worked perfectly for months. SO i fix my car 90% of the time. THis time i am LOST!!! and need help.
BEfore it happened. I was really low on gas and filled up at some BP/amaco i never fill up at. Drove to my buddies house 4 miles down the road. CAr is perfect as usual. Hung out for about 2-3 hrs. I go to leave. Crank the car.. IT cranked WIld rought idle up and down and as low as 300 rpms and up to about 650. ALmost shutting off as it struggle to hold idle.. and sometimes drops really low slmost stalls then bounces back...
SYMTOMS::
GArbage idle almost dies. really low.. and sometimes fixes itself and idles like it should. But at this point its 95% of the time the idle is crap. Freereving under 3000 it doesnt clear up and wont rev... but most of the time when you can work the pedal to make it above 3000 it will clear up and rev and sound normal.. but as soon as you let it idle it goes bak to its crap.
Acceleration. Well.. The thing wont go.. TO get home i had to Work the pedal to get aleast 5,000 rpms and dump/ride the clutch agressively to keep rpms up and the car stumbles hard and falls on its face.. takes several tries. but it almost seems like it runs ok when your ******* it out.. half the time.. But mainly, Not matter how much gas you give it it just keep sputtering and wont accelerate.
BY the way .. in high rpms.. 4,000 to 6,000 when it does clear it pulls hard like the normal FULL POWER is there.
MY guess is AFM or maybe the FPR. I am pretty positive it is not injectors. BEcause if it was.. ALl 6 cylinders wouldnt be firing erratically and then clear up with hight revs...
Also note. That the car will rarely run normal for about 5 minutes then goes back to being impossible to drive.In those 5 minutes; I mean the idle is good, low throttle accel is perfect.. It is just a normal car.. I dont get it..
What i have done. USed some seafoam in the tank bacause i was under the impression that i got some bad gas-damn gas station with wattered down gas. I also drove the car around best i could and wated the gas i had and put a fresh 6 gallons in there.. and the problem persist.
BEfore it happened. I was really low on gas and filled up at some BP/amaco i never fill up at. Drove to my buddies house 4 miles down the road. CAr is perfect as usual. Hung out for about 2-3 hrs. I go to leave. Crank the car.. IT cranked WIld rought idle up and down and as low as 300 rpms and up to about 650. ALmost shutting off as it struggle to hold idle.. and sometimes drops really low slmost stalls then bounces back...
SYMTOMS::
GArbage idle almost dies. really low.. and sometimes fixes itself and idles like it should. But at this point its 95% of the time the idle is crap. Freereving under 3000 it doesnt clear up and wont rev... but most of the time when you can work the pedal to make it above 3000 it will clear up and rev and sound normal.. but as soon as you let it idle it goes bak to its crap.
Acceleration. Well.. The thing wont go.. TO get home i had to Work the pedal to get aleast 5,000 rpms and dump/ride the clutch agressively to keep rpms up and the car stumbles hard and falls on its face.. takes several tries. but it almost seems like it runs ok when your ******* it out.. half the time.. But mainly, Not matter how much gas you give it it just keep sputtering and wont accelerate.
BY the way .. in high rpms.. 4,000 to 6,000 when it does clear it pulls hard like the normal FULL POWER is there.
MY guess is AFM or maybe the FPR. I am pretty positive it is not injectors. BEcause if it was.. ALl 6 cylinders wouldnt be firing erratically and then clear up with hight revs...
Also note. That the car will rarely run normal for about 5 minutes then goes back to being impossible to drive.In those 5 minutes; I mean the idle is good, low throttle accel is perfect.. It is just a normal car.. I dont get it..
What i have done. USed some seafoam in the tank bacause i was under the impression that i got some bad gas-damn gas station with wattered down gas. I also drove the car around best i could and wated the gas i had and put a fresh 6 gallons in there.. and the problem persist.
Last edited by junito1; 03-04-2011 at 04:54 AM.
#6221
Hey Guys I'm new to the forum. I've used the search tool, and I think I'm ready to ask my question. *sigh*
I have a 1994 Maxima GXE . Long story short my car is at the mechanics. He said i need a new struts since mine no longer are in service, Springs are also shot (looks like the car is lowered). I'm looking everywhere for a used pair of struts. (I'm a college kid, I'm broke as it is) The mechanic told me my car was SOHC with ABS and I'm browsing through ebay and i ran across this posting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...item3a6060c10d
since this is w/o abs should i buy them and are DOHC and SOHC struts compatible with each other?
I have a 1994 Maxima GXE . Long story short my car is at the mechanics. He said i need a new struts since mine no longer are in service, Springs are also shot (looks like the car is lowered). I'm looking everywhere for a used pair of struts. (I'm a college kid, I'm broke as it is) The mechanic told me my car was SOHC with ABS and I'm browsing through ebay and i ran across this posting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...item3a6060c10d
since this is w/o abs should i buy them and are DOHC and SOHC struts compatible with each other?
#6223
Hey Guys I'm new to the forum. I've used the search tool, and I think I'm ready to ask my question. *sigh*
I have a 1994 Maxima GXE . Long story short my car is at the mechanics. He said i need a new struts since mine no longer are in service, Springs are also shot (looks like the car is lowered). I'm looking everywhere for a used pair of struts. (I'm a college kid, I'm broke as it is) The mechanic told me my car was SOHC with ABS and I'm browsing through ebay and i ran across this posting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...item3a6060c10d
since this is w/o abs should i buy them and are DOHC and SOHC struts compatible with each other?
I have a 1994 Maxima GXE . Long story short my car is at the mechanics. He said i need a new struts since mine no longer are in service, Springs are also shot (looks like the car is lowered). I'm looking everywhere for a used pair of struts. (I'm a college kid, I'm broke as it is) The mechanic told me my car was SOHC with ABS and I'm browsing through ebay and i ran across this posting http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...item3a6060c10d
since this is w/o abs should i buy them and are DOHC and SOHC struts compatible with each other?
the proper answer is: don't buy used struts. It's a mistake I paid for until I bought some real struts. used parts are a stop-gap until you can afford the proper parts.
#6224
Like I said I'm a college kid, Lowering springs would cost me $120 then $120 for the actual struts then 80 for mounts. $40 for Dust boots. That $360 then 222 for labor (60 for the tow, 162 for them to install) $582.00. Not to say that i recently paid 330 For a drive shaft put in not to long ago.
I understand used parts aren't that great but couldn't i use "these" used springs if i do upgrade the struts in the future? CourtesyParts wants $120 a pop for 1. http://www.courtesyparts.com/54010ma-spring-front-maxima-j30-1989-07/1989-sohc-m/t-1991-sohc-m/t-1990-sohcse-m/t-redx1-yellowx2-p-48595.html
I just don't know what to do
I understand used parts aren't that great but couldn't i use "these" used springs if i do upgrade the struts in the future? CourtesyParts wants $120 a pop for 1. http://www.courtesyparts.com/54010ma-spring-front-maxima-j30-1989-07/1989-sohc-m/t-1991-sohc-m/t-1990-sohcse-m/t-redx1-yellowx2-p-48595.html
I just don't know what to do
#6225
I agree dont buy used shocks. NEw shocks last about 30-40,000 miles.
SO take a guess at how many the used ones your buying have. can you say wasted money? Might as well ride with blown shocks like me=P
OH. and the problem to my Huge sputtering issues was the MAF.
SO take a guess at how many the used ones your buying have. can you say wasted money? Might as well ride with blown shocks like me=P
OH. and the problem to my Huge sputtering issues was the MAF.
#6226
Like I said I'm a college kid, Lowering springs would cost me $120 then $120 for the actual struts then 80 for mounts. $40 for Dust boots. That $360 then 222 for labor (60 for the tow, 162 for them to install) $582.00. Not to say that i recently paid 330 For a drive shaft put in not to long ago.
I understand used parts aren't that great but couldn't i use "these" used springs if i do upgrade the struts in the future? CourtesyParts wants $120 a pop for 1. http://www.courtesyparts.com/54010ma-spring-front-maxima-j30-1989-07/1989-sohc-m/t-1991-sohc-m/t-1990-sohcse-m/t-redx1-yellowx2-p-48595.html
I just don't know what to do
I understand used parts aren't that great but couldn't i use "these" used springs if i do upgrade the struts in the future? CourtesyParts wants $120 a pop for 1. http://www.courtesyparts.com/54010ma-spring-front-maxima-j30-1989-07/1989-sohc-m/t-1991-sohc-m/t-1990-sohcse-m/t-redx1-yellowx2-p-48595.html
I just don't know what to do
KYB shocks (the only shocks worth buying, anymore) are only $220 shipped on fleabay, right now. $100 may be alot atm, but it's cheaper than doing it again in 6 months.
If you could do the work yourself, I may be saying something different (likely, I wouldn't, but it's possible). you are suggesting you can't, and are willing to pay someone else lots of money (more than the parts) to fix it.
#6227
The Car has 144,xxx miles on it. It's my first car. I just needed it to get me from point A to point B. It's like all I've been doing to this car is fixing it. Hopefully after a month I'll have some money left over from work to buy new struts, and coils. Thanks for your input i appreciate it.
#6228
The Car has 144,xxx miles on it. It's my first car. I just needed it to get me from point A to point B. It's like all I've been doing to this car is fixing it. Hopefully after a month I'll have some money left over from work to buy new struts, and coils. Thanks for your input i appreciate it.
but yeah just get some KYB GR2, you can snag a set for a decent price on Ebay
#6229
i have an exhaust leak from my header. looks like one of the bolt fell out. so i took off the header and theres two broken studs on the same manifold port. now i have to drill and extract the stud. but theres not enough room. is there another solution?
#6230
Unfortunately, it is as you see it. a pita.
also, broken studs are usually from bad motor mounts, may want to check those if you haven't already.
#6231
having idle problem with my 92 maxima
I have a 92 maxima that is having trouble keeping a steady idle in reverse an drive. I jus gave it a minor tune up (oil, filter, spark plugs, trans fluid) two of the spark plugs had little oil in it (3 & 5 to be exact) noticed it coming from valve cover, so i fixed it. Now everytime when I put the car in reverse or drive the rpms drop really low an sometimes dies out.. sounds like a stick shift when come to a stop an dies out.. wats funny is it idles fine in park or neutral. Someone told me that 1 or 2 of my cylinders are misfiring... wat u think??
#6232
I have a 92 maxima that is having trouble keeping a steady idle in reverse an drive. I jus gave it a minor tune up (oil, filter, spark plugs, trans fluid) two of the spark plugs had little oil in it (3 & 5 to be exact) noticed it coming from valve cover, so i fixed it. Now everytime when I put the car in reverse or drive the rpms drop really low an sometimes dies out.. sounds like a stick shift when come to a stop an dies out.. wats funny is it idles fine in park or neutral. Someone told me that 1 or 2 of my cylinders are misfiring... wat u think??
B. Recheck all the work you did
C. Go and read the hundreds of posts throughout the forum about injector issues.
#6233
I have what is one of the weirdest problems, a stuck door. I know exactly what the problem is. There's a little c shaped deal that hooks onto the frame, this is what keeps the door shut(not locked unlocked). Pulling the handle releases it, however my problem is that mines lost a little spring or something and it's now stuck in the close position. I managed to remove the panel with minimal damage and I've tried to get to it, the other problem is that it seems to be housed in it's own little container. No getting to it from inside the door. It's a mechanical part it's not the locking mechanism or linkages those seem fine. The only way to get to it would be from where the door meets the frame, friggin impossible.
Quick recap there's a hook bolted to the frame and if you look at your door there's this little C shaped deal that hooks on to it. When closed it turns into an upside down U. Seems it's spring loaded so when you pull the handle it releases it back to C position. Since the spring seems gone, when you open my door by latch nothing happens. This is not a lock door problem but a closed door that wont open. Is there a tool that may work in turning this little hook back to open position?
Note: When the problem first started the door would not stay closed I was gonna rope it shut till I figured out how to fix the problem, but when using the locking mechanism it somehow inadvertently switched the hook to the closed position. While messing with the working door I confirmed that it is indeed a spring that's missing. Pulling on the hatch releases the deal that holds it shut and lets it revert back to C or open position.
Quick recap there's a hook bolted to the frame and if you look at your door there's this little C shaped deal that hooks on to it. When closed it turns into an upside down U. Seems it's spring loaded so when you pull the handle it releases it back to C position. Since the spring seems gone, when you open my door by latch nothing happens. This is not a lock door problem but a closed door that wont open. Is there a tool that may work in turning this little hook back to open position?
Note: When the problem first started the door would not stay closed I was gonna rope it shut till I figured out how to fix the problem, but when using the locking mechanism it somehow inadvertently switched the hook to the closed position. While messing with the working door I confirmed that it is indeed a spring that's missing. Pulling on the hatch releases the deal that holds it shut and lets it revert back to C or open position.
#6234
im about to swap my engine in my 93 maxima se with another stock one cause my other engine blew but i want to do more to it like a different exhaust and headers i couldnt find that many parts for this cars year to fix up the engine i was wondering if anyone knew of aftermarket parts to put on my car and i know they there is aftermarket suspension for my car but i was wondering which would be the best one to get
#6235
you can get full exhaust piping now, talk to Cmax. we all had a group deal and got full exhausts and IIRC a site now sells the piping we got, i THINK so not 100%. otherwise start with a Ypipe.
for suspension if you want a mild drop go with Eibach springs, if you want to go lower go with Ksport GT or Intrax
for suspension if you want a mild drop go with Eibach springs, if you want to go lower go with Ksport GT or Intrax
#6240