I have a 92 with a VE engine. Several months ago the car wouldn't start. The engine would turn would not fire. I replace the camshaft sensor with a old one I had. Pulled the plug to see if the plug was firing and it started right up. Thinking problem solved. Many weeks later same thing. So I pulled the plug again, Plug was firing but wet. So I held the throttle down it fired up. I then bought a new CPS. Installed it and it fired right up. I then tried different cranking scenarios and it didn't fire up. I had to pull the plug to get it to fire. This time the plug was dry. I pulled the fuel hose and pump is working. I think it's strange that I had to pull a plug each time to get it started. Normally it fires as soon as the starter hits the flywheel. I've drove it for a week it ran fine. But I am afraid of getting stranded.
Has anyone had this problem?

odd thing happening with my 89, When i am getting out of the cars and hit the lock switch inside the car. it locks but when the door closes it unlocks. any idea why this might happen? it does it 85% of the time, the rest of the time it usually locks right or will lock and leave the lock like partly sticking up.

hold the door handle up when you close the door.

i have an o4 se maxima and i was wondering if doing the cat back exhaust is gonna do anything for me or if its pretty much the same exhaust as the stock one on it. and is a cheap cold air intake gonna be just as good?

im new to all this but im very interested in modding my car but i want to do it on a budget i have a 04 se looking for good places to get cheap parts and ideas on what exactly i should put in it

this is the 3rd gen section, youre gonna want to go 3 up to the 6th gen section

so i just bench tested my fuel injectors and the results left me with a bunch of questions. 15ohms, 13.3ohms, 44.6ohms, 12.2ohms, 23.3ohms, 12.3ohms. first i had to clean the connectors of a greenish corrosion. i am guessing water moisture got in some time and was left. i am wondering if rebuilding the injectors is even worth it. from my ohm readings do you think the coils are gone? high resistance is because of the corrosion right? anyway, a previous post i had mentioned my electrical problem. could this have fried the wires and jacked up the injectors?

Be sure all the corrosion is cleaned off, ohm them again...

If you still have any reading over 14, then replace the injector/s

you cannot rebuild these injectors, replacement is the only option...

well, i recleaned the connectors and got the same readings....time for new ones... ebay has a bunch of remaned injectors and i am going to trust your advice.

yep you cannot rebuild these injectors, the reman ones will last only month if even before they crap out, just get the correct injectors brand new to prevent major headaches. if money is tight you can try junkyard injectors and hope they work but its best to get new

anyone ever changed out the high pressure hose on the power steering? Can seem to figure out how to get the hose loose at the bottom. There is almost no room for the wrench to turn and too small to get a socket on it.
nvm I got it loose. just had to chop up the wrench i was using.

can you tell me which fuses to check?

i have a 1990 maxima that i love. i really want to turbo the VG30E engine. i see turbo kits on ebay but i am not sure if this would be the way to go. Does anybody know anything about if they would work or just a waste of time

I know there are a ton of threads on this, but since I am new, I have tried some of the recommendations. I just bought a 96 I30. It only has 89K on it. It runs like a champ, but has a couple of issues. It starts fine most of the time, but sometimes I have to push the gas pedal and then it will fire up. I tried the additional grounds, cleaned the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, and replaced the knock sensor. It seems it must be fuel related since pushing the accelerator gets it to go. Sometimes the idle goes up and down for a few seconds or more after it starts. My question is this, what should I try next? Fuel filter, pump, pressure regulator?? Since replacing he knock sensor, I have received the P0136 code once. I also read that could be low fuel pressure. Could it be related??
The only other problem is when the car is cold, automatic tranny the shift from 1st to 2nd is very hard. Smooths out when warmed up.

Any ideas?

dont go with those kits, theyre garbage. theyre made in China out of the shi11iest parts imaginable and you still need custom bending and such. nobody made kits for the VG30E, the best and easiest way would be to get VG30ET parts from a Z31 300zx turbo, you need the exhaust manifold, oil lines, turbo, piping, etc. along with a bit of custom fabrication.

^guy one up, this is the 3rd gen section, try the I30/I35 section

Obviously I am new here and got this in the third Gen category, sorry....

Noob question:

I've used this site to get this far... Thanks for the help so far.

I believe the starter is bad. When I turn the key, the starter does nothing. I've charged the battery overnight. I have checked the ECU codes; got a 55 so - normal. While the key is in the start position, I can feel a small vibration on the fuel rail that I can only assume is fuel. There is 12VDC on the big wire on the starter all the time. and on the small wire there is 12VDC only when the key is in the start position. The car has been running on 5/6 cylinders due to #1 fuel injector going bad - for about 8 months. So, it has been kind of hard to start thus taxing the starter quite a bit. Any other ideas? TIA

1991 Maxima SE V6

I replaced my battery and starter due to the car not starting or only starting once you let it sit for a while. After replacing these parts the car started up fine for the entire week. I went to get start up the car this morning to go to work and theres nothing... any ideas on what could be wrong with it now? The lights turn on and everything so I know the battery isn't faulty. I don't really hear any noise coming form the starter, so maybe the starter went bad. It shouldn't have, its an Ultima starter with a lifetime warranty. I cant seem to get through 1 tank of gas without something going wrong with the car...

check your alternator, IMO thats what would be best to start with

check your alternator as well lol

When I bought my starter and battery at schucks, I had them test the alternator and it tested normal. Can the alternator test normal and become a turd 1 week later?

parts are good, until they break, then they're bad............

yes, it happens........

yep, mine went last year. it was fine, then one morning suddenly it acted up (radio turned itself on, heater turned itself off, wipers would go really slow suddenly, weird noises), parked for a few hours and it wouldnt start after. the day before, absolutely no signs

Well I havent had any issues with the heater or radio. The lights on my automatic shifter burnt out though. Since I have a new battery and starter, maybe I'll just install a new alternator and hope that it works. Ive never removed an alternator, but I handled the starter just fine. I'll take it out this weekend and have it tested again at Schucks.

So how can I test the alternator without being able to start the engine?

sorry that i cant remember

one other thing you could do is get a junkyard alternator and hope it fixes the problem, if it does you can either keep the junkyard alternator, or most JY will let you return any parts within 14-30 days for credit so you could take it back and get other stuff you need and get a better alternator from somewhere else. thats actually what i did with my cousin, the alty went on his Jimmy so i picked him up, went to the JY and got a alty and it lasted until he sold the Jimmy

recharge the battery, then start the car..stick a voltage meter on the battery terminals, it should be around the 13.5 to 14 volt mark.....Or you can remove the alternator from the car, take it up to your local auto parts store for testing...

After charging the battery I did have proper voltage on the battery. Still no dice. How would the alternator prevent it from starting even if the battery is fully charged?

Ok, sorry, i didn't back read your story..Chrome91 got you going on the wrong track(for future reference, dont follow his advice), it's not your alternator if it wont turn over even with a charged battery...Try tapping the starter with a hammer/ratchet or something like that, then try to start it..If it starts, then you need a new starter....if still no go, remove the starter, then take it to your local auto parts store for further testing...

Here's my question to the noobs with starting problems. Is there spark is there fuel and does the vehicle turn over but wont fire? I work at an auto parts store and yes some parts you buy can go bad even if they are remanufactured.

Here's my question to the noobs with starting problems. Is there spark is there fuel and does the vehicle turn over but wont fire? I work at an auto parts store and yes some parts you buy can go bad even if they are remanufactured.

Update: I tried to jump the car with my gf's car, and no luck. The lights turn on with full brightness and all the lights work in the car except the AT shifter light. I'm beginning to think that the re-manufactured starter I bought is the problem. If it were the alternator my headlights would be dim or not work right? I cant get the car to start period and the only click I hear is the ignition, the starter isn't clicking at all.

And its not a fuel issue... the car doesnt even try to turn. Plus I have new injectors and a new fuel filter. I'll probably end up replacing every part on the car week by week at this rate.

Your first problem is if i remember right you bought the starter off of schucks am i right? I don't like them personally as the alternator and motor mount i bought from them that is supposedly limited life time warrantied doesn't show up in there computers. Oh well i work at autozone and we got there price on the alternator beat and they don't lose any of my warranties. Take your starter off go to were you bought it have it tested and if it fails get it replaced.

Don't have schucks down in Oklahoma city but do have O'rieles which bought out schucks. Used to live in Tacoma wa.can't stand the morons in schucks auto parts stores. Most of them don't know the difference between vg and ve alternators. Had one trying to sell me a vg alternator to save me money. Stupid moron lol

Check your coil packs...

Yeah I've had some issues with them too. The first time I purchased the starter from Shucks/O'Reily, they sold me the wrong starter. I pulled the old out out of the car and realized they looked nothing alike. On Saturday I'm going to pull this starter out and have it tested. I thought it was a safe bet buying one with a lifetime warranty. Guess I was wrong

Schucks price on there parts sometimes are way over priced. I spent 250 on the 95amp alternator from them and autozone has it for $185 + tax.

I took the starter out today and took it back to Schucks to have it tested. The guy at the counter made sure to remind me that if it passes the test he cant take it back. Lucky for me it failed all 3 tests and they gave me another one to try. I got it hooked up and the car starts again. Hopefully this starter will last more than a week this time. The car is acting kind of funny though. When I put it into reverse the car died on me. Seems to be due to the MAF connection being slightly loose. The metal clip part got all screwed up when I disconnected the MAF connection.

Just hit a junk yard an any 3rd gen to grab the clip off the maf for the maf to not lose connection to the connector.

I still have the clip, its just bent in a way that it won't go on the way its supposed to. I'll try playing with it this weekend to see if I can fix it. The good news is the car is running great. I drove the car in stop and go traffic for about 50 miles this morning with no flaws.