ive got a 92 maxima se..ive seen diff headlights in them before..is there headlights from other car that will also fit?

i have a 93 maxima, im wanting to know what kind of mods would b necessary to swap in a vq30de in there if any?

like mine? these are the crystal black Euro headlights, you can still find them. you can put them right into your current headlight housing, otherwise with some modding you can use a certain BMW headlight



93cherrybomb, Aaron has done a VQ35DE, but you have to swap engines, trans, do the wiring, etc. IMO its really not worth it, youre better off boosting your current engine for more power.

thx..do u know what make and yr of bmw it may be? anything helps..ill post pics of the ride tmorrow guys!!!

pretty sure E36
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/tko/bmw_conversion/

thx..much needed

ok, i have a 1990 maxima with a really rough idle. it has a hose put on that goes from the air intake to the motor and is all cremped up so i put a new one on that allowed airflow through. before i did this my car idled in neutral at 800rpms, after i did it my car idled in neutral at 1700rpms. what should i do? lower the idle and reset the tps?

Okay so I have spoken with a Nissan mechanic about my ve30de, and was told that the third gens have issues with the vtc solenoid becoming faulty. I have yet to rip the motor apart, and was wanting to know if I am hearing the proper sound displayed from a faulty vtc. Although I think it sounds as if one of the guides or tensioner have broken, and the timing chain is slapping the valve cover. Any help would be appreciate. The less money I spend the better, but I want the job done right, so I need some research firsthand. Thanks again.

Hello I am an owner of a 1990 Nissan MAxima. and have encountered a problem. I found out that I have a coolant smell coming from my air conditioning right at the base f my windshield. I couldn't find a leak but also noticed that m radiator fans were not running. However, when pushing the AC button, they work perfectly. The needle in my temp gauge tends to fluctuate between extremely hot and the middle. I have no idea what to replace or what to do. My first thought would be to check to see if my fluid levels are high enough... any suggestions?

what is the mileage interval for changing?

must have a hole in the heater core

valued around 400. the thing will get moving after 3500 rpm but its horrible below that. the chugging is insane. running it up to 6grand doesn't cause any smoke but still this thing is running on 4 cylinders in park or nutral or in drive /reverse. i have not torn into all the checks yet, i know what to do but i am worried about possible internal engine damage at this point

i have never had a motor feel this horrible on anything but still rev freely to high rpms.

bux in the bike so this is a 40 dollar car

need advice on where to find used everything. i need a few injectors i think and a few plug wires.

that wasn't taken care of very well

i have in stock tons of 235 75 15's but seems like they are too tall and may cause rubbing????? this needs 4 tires and i use junk tires so you know they are bad.

.

what intervals would you run the valves?

if so is this motor an interference motor meaning if it breaks will the valves hit the pistons?

mine is shot.....

woooooooooooooooooooah just use one post

-yes you have to do the timing belt, guessing youre from the US and i cant remember when to change the belt in miles

-yes, all VG30E are interference except for 1 version in Nissan Quest, if the belt snaps youre likely looking at a major rebuild or a new engine

-you can use any 1989-1994 seat, but if you have power seats and go to manual seats now you need the new brackets as well

-the chugging sounds like it could be a bad injector or two

-VG30E dont often get headgasket failure

-235/75/15 probably will rub, OEM is 205/65/15 IIRC

For the timing belt change interval, 60k miles for the square toothed belt, 100k miles for the round toothed belt.

Sounds like you may have a leak on the heater core, which is a bad thing cause the leak can damage the ECU that sits below the heater core. Check around the middle area around the foot pedal to see if the floor is wet.

Since the fans turn on when you turn on the AC, but they don't turn on when the engine gets hot, check the coolant temperature sensor. Follow the top radiator hose to the engine and you will see two sensors. The one facing to the firewall is the coolant temperature sensor. When mine was bad, it would not give the correct reading to turn on the fans when my car was overheating. Changed it and it's all good.

1991 3,0l Maxima. Electrical problem. Started one day with the egnition would no turn off when turning and removin the key. Several lights remained on in tha dash. Even after discon and reconecting the negative wire on the battery. That problem has now escalated to. The following fuses pop the instant i replace them. "Electron Bat 10A" "P.wind 30A" and to lamps in the dash are now permanently on while driving. The "door open light" and the indicator for charging is kinda 30% on.

Been in and around cars for 20 years. To me this indicates a massive short somewhere. But i cant find it. Any hint as to where to look would be nice. Also the "Electron Bat" fuse what does that feed exactly?

Just bought 91se w/auto. previously owned a 94 back in 94 but sold it 5yrs later. now I got one again and boy is it a mess. going to restore on a budget. need help with good source for parts. any one out there able to help?

question...

I bought a 94 maxima gxe recently, automatic, 175k. it has a rebuilt transmission with 44k on it. the car shifts hard into 2nd and a lil less harder in 3rd gear, but doesnt slip at all. when in overdrive, its much less of a hard shift. transmission fluid looks smooth and doesnt smell burnt. previous owner says its been doin it for some time now but who knows. ive had some people tell me to get it flushed or drained/filled, which might fix the problem. basically, im tryin to figure out what could be causing this and what i could do about it. would anybody here recommend a drain/refill of the trans fluid? or complete flush? or anything else i could do that could help? thank u in advanced.

Check the dropping resistor. It is a rectangle shaped part under the air filter box bolted onto the frame. Make sure the resistance between its terminals is between 11.2 and 12.8 ohms.

Hey quick question (maybe). I recently replaced my fuel injectors in my 89 Maxima and in doing so removed my distributor. I marked where it was before removing it but ever since putting it back on it has been really loud. Anyone have any idea what might be causing this? It still seems to run fine but its starting to annoy me...and I'm not the type to just turn the radio up.

The only thing that I can think of is that the ball bearing went out. Pull the distributor out and spin it by hand. If it's the ball bearing, you may hear like loose ***** rolling around and some small grinding. If so, you may need to replace the entire distributor.

My 93 maxima has started running rough at idle and when accelerating it gets slightly worse only over minimal acceleration though.
Checked the ECU and couldn't make sense of what I was getting (not the origianl ECU, original one got covered in coolant from heater core zzzz)
2 long, 3 short, 4 short, 5 short, 1 long and then repeating

Normally wouldn't need to pull the distributor for an injector swap. However, I pulled my distributor recently to change the rocker cover gaskets. Putting mine back required some effort to get the shaft back in. I had to be carfull not to put force on the rotor. Maybe you warped the rotor enough to make the noise.

Now that you mention it that is what I was doing when we removed the distributor (I had noticed a large amount of oil that had oozed out) so I figured they needed to be done, and did the injectors around the same time. Anyway sorry about the mix up but I'll take a better look at everything this weekend. The car has 247k on it so I half expect everything to start to fail or show signs of failing going forward.

my 89 max will only run on the head closest to the cab cyl 1 3 5 what would cause this i have spark on the other cyl yet they spark not on compression stroke

Hi, um I have a '93 maxima and I kinda need some help. My car has a problem when I start it it cranks and then dies, cranks and then dies. I have to keep giving it gas and holding down the brake to shift (its an automatic) and when im on the road driving its like it does not want to change gears or it revs up when it hits the time to change gears. I don't know what to do and im about ready to give up on my car but I love it so. (yeah I am a woman lol) I changed the spark plugs and wires myself and the rotary button under the distribution cap and those were not the problem. I have had someone tell me its the transmission but I don't think its that I think it has something to do with the fuel injectors not working right but im really not sure. Im hoping someone on here with alittle more sense about cars can please help a lady out. lol Thank you!

can someone tell me where the brake line booster is??

uh, between the master cylinder and the firewall? big, black, round thing?

Hello. I have an 89 maxima 3.0 and neither of the 2 cooling fans engage, even when I turn on the a/c. I replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor and swapped around the 3 cooling fan relays and a/c relay, as well as checked every known fuse on the car, but the only thing that makes the fans engage, on high, is when I unplug the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Then they run constant reguardless of temperature. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Hi so yesterday i seafoamed the car i did all the requirements and for some reason the car never put out white smoke while sefoaming the car can anybody tell me what i did wrong?
although i did feel a better throttle

where did you put the seaofam? in the gas, the oil, or the master cylinder vacuum?

Hey alls...

I just picked up a 93 se with the ve30de... car is loaded with power everything, 6 disc, moon roof.. interior is in great shape... paint is ok.. needs buffed out but looks decent... car has 139k on the clock... drove it home and paid $400 for it.

Here is the issue... Car has a slightly rough idle, LOUD (aka cant hardly handle having your head under the hood while the car idles) rattle at all rpms / temperatures/ etc.. coming from the rear cyl. head... almost sounds like rod knock however its too fast to be rod knock and it gets quieter as the rpms increase.... very loud at idle but not as bad when reving the car up.. doesnt ever quit completely however... also very low power while taking off... can here some puffing back through the intake so I know its valvetrain related and after some searching, I'm thinking its VCT failure...

So.. I pulled the intake and rear valve cover... turned the motor over and let it sputter and could hear the noise but couldnt see anything off... for giggles, I tapped on the end of the intake cam (the VCT) and the cam jumped... so is the VCT shot or was it just bound up or...?

On the underside of the valve cover, you can see wear marks from the VCT rubbing the cover as if the cam was walking and there is an odd looking washerish thing on the opposite end of the cam that Ive never seen before...

Here are a few pics...






If the VCT is the culprit... where is the cheapest place to buy the assemblies? I dont want to mess with rebuilding them since I dont have all the tools needed to do so at the moment...

Anyways, Thanks guys
-Chris