Cant seem to find where the get a shifter bushing. Not trying to pay dealership price (unless its inexpensive to begin with), and I cant find it on courtesyparts. Any help/suggestions?

 

dude the shifter bushing is like $3-$5 at the dealership, its not gonna get any cheaper

 

Any word on my above issue guys?

Thanks
-Chris

 

Local dealer quoted $480 for just the one cam gear/vtc assembly... anyone know where I can get them cheaper or is it even the problem?

Any info would be great.

Thanks
-Chris

 

Ive done a bit more looking around and from what Ive seen, my vtc has completely failed and lost its cap... So... anyone know where I can get these things for a good price? Anyone have any laying around that are in good shape?

Thanks
-Chris

 

Reading is apparently my friend...

The douche at the stealership told me they no longer offered a rebuild kit for the vtc gears... looking around a bit, I was able to find the part number and get them ordered from courtesy nissan...

Hopefully I can get everything fixed and the car back up and running soon.

Thanks
-Chris

 

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

You should get an FSM. Those 12345 blinks are the mode selectors. 3 blinka is diagnostic mode when it hits there you have to turn the screw then you will get error codes.

 

My 1992 Maxima GXE will not go into reverse or neutral. It is an automatic transmission.

It has 245,xxx miles on it, but I'm not sure how much the motor has on it (my step dad put a used engine in before he gave it to me) But it does not use any oil or any other fluids, and It seems like a good engine, especially since it's been sitting for 2 years.

I think I might need to get a used transmission and put it in until I can save up for a new one, but with over 200K miles on it is it worth it? Could it give me much more life if I change the transmission? Also what could be the problem? The one area that I know absolutely nothing about is the transmission, haha.

It went out when my idiot 'friend' tried to do burn outs in a FRONT WHEEL DRIVE by going on a hill and putting it into neutral, revving the engine, and shoving up into drive. Now I am pretty sure this caused it, but what exactly could it have done to my transmission?

 

my 92 maxima has a hesitation when accelerating from 700 to 1100 rpms it almost stalls then its perfectly fine after.it doesnt really have a bad idle its only when i give it little gas it has new plugs and wires i put sefoam in the gas tank and through the brake booster hose but still have a problem.new fuel filter also any ideas?

 

thats called neutral dropping/neutral bombing. its HORRIBLY TERRIBLE on the tranny, sounds like he screwed up alot of stuff. i dont think theres any way around a rebuild

you should be able to get a good used one though to replace it

dont let anyone or yourself ever do neutral bombs or go from drive to reverse or reverse to drive while moving, i think the stats from tranny shops were 90% of problems they saw were preventable if people wouldnt shift while moving

 

Yeah, I didn't know anything about cars then, and I still knew it wasn't good! lol. Ok, I know where I can get a used transmission for a good price, but is it worth it since the car has over 200K miles on it? Also I know nothing of putting in transmissions. I'm more of an engine person. How difficult is it?

Thanks for the answer (=

 

Hello I have a 2000 nissan maxima and 3 days ago the passenger side cv axle and control arm came off while driving in mid-turn.I had this same problem on driver side about 6 months ago. full coverage fixed it and got warrenty for it. Should the shop cover this free of charge?

 

its really up to you but to me it would be worth it. if you can remove an engine yourself im sure you could replace the trans yourself, or find someone on here who could help you or someone local who could help you

Greeny is from Tennessee, maybe if you ask him nicely he could help you because hes done it before

 

you want the 5th gen section this is the 3rd gen section

 

my 92 maxima has a hesitation when accelerating from 700 to 1100 rpms it almost stalls then its perfectly fine after.it doesnt really have a bad idle its only when i give it little gas it has new plugs and wires i put sefoam in the gas tank and through the brake booster hose but still have a problem.new fuel filter also any ideas?

 

Yeah I think Im going to fix it. I'm just going to put a used transmission in it so I can have a running car and then save up for a new one.

I'm just having trouble finding out if it's a DOHC or not. My vin number says it is one, but some mechanic guy said that if my engine says Twin Cam on it it's not. Which doens't make much sense because it seems like it owuld be the other way around.

Where in TN? lol I may have to ask. I'm new to the car world (=

 

That mechanic guy is a f***ing idiot then. If the valve cover says 24 valve, Twin Cam, then you have the VE30DE. And yes, it's DOHC. And yes, there is a huge difference between the SOHC and DOHC automatic transmissions, so be careful.

 

Thats what I thought lol. It makes more sense that way. And he tried to tell me that I could use a DOHC with a SOHC motor without a problem. this is why I double check things, thanks (=

Also how do I tell if I have a locking or non locking differential?

*edit*

thats what the guy with the transmission asked me, but I just saw that the Maximas didn't have a locking differential, that it had either an open or limited slip. How do I tell?

 

lol what in the hell mechanic is this? on V6 twin cam=DOHC=24v. single cam=SOHC=12v. VE are twin cam and VG are single cam. thats literally scary that he doesnt know that

you can use a VE 5spd on a VG with a few mods, but a VE automatic on a VG requires some wiring sorting that few have done

IIRC RE4F04V is the auto VE VLSD trans code, some people say all VE in North America are VLSD and Japan got VE that could have no VLSD but some say it was optional in the US/Canada as well

 

I have a 1993 SE. The key broke inside the ignition and it is in the lock position. The key release button is pushed and was stuck in that position too. I'm planning to remove the lock cylinder and change it if there's no hope in recovering the other half without damaging the original cylinder. Is this possible?

 

I know. He was one of the part dealers at the junkyard i'm getting my transmission from. He said he deals with Nissans almost exclusively...I guess not lol. I think he only works part time there, and I guess thats why.

Well, now we just have to get the transmission out of the other car, and it's going to be hard. We got everything out of the way except the motor mount. The bolt on it can take 300+ pounds of pressure, and there are no powertools allowed. fun lol.

 

I do believe a locksmith can do that.

 

have you tried needlenose pliers and pulling it yet or is it a really small piece inside? but yeah probably try a locksmith

 

I tried even using a dissecting tweezer because it's around 2cm deep but no luck. I'm thinking of calling one too but how much is the average cost of this matter?

 

This is my first car so I have these set of questions to be familiar with cars.

1. My friend gave me a 93 SE and I'm just wondering. Do 93 SE's have a remote to arm/disarm the car? Because I asked the her (which was the 2nd owner of the car) and she said that she doesn't know. So, is there a remote for this year and trim?

2. If you replace the ignition lock cylinder and get a new set of keys, will you still be able to open the doors, trunk, and the glovebox with the new key?

3. I checked the power windows but the windows don't move. I can hear a vibration when pushing the buttons. I think I tried all the buttons (even from the driver's side) but same outcome. Any possible causes?

4. 93 SE hoods are equipped with air struts, right? When I open the hood, it won't hold itself up. What is wrong with the struts if they wont hold? Will strut screw clamps work?

5. I can see a set of numbers on the front left side of the dashboard. What do these numbers mean?

6. How can you open the trunk without a key if the button in the driver's door for the trunk doesn't work?

 

Nope

Usually when ordering a new lock cylinder, the key will be etched to work with that cylinder lock only. What you can try is to get a locksmith to swap the pin tumblers from the old lock cylinder to the new one.

If all of the windows don't move even when trying to use the window switches on all 4 doors, then the main window switch on the driver door may be bad. Replace that first.

Just like any gas strut, they go bad over time and no longer hold. Any auto parts store can order them for you.

On the gauge cluster? That would be the odometer and trip meter. On top of the dashboard on the left corner? That would be the VIN. Am I missing somewhere else?

You will need to remove the rear seats to gain access to the trunk area. Then move the lever on the hinge to manually open it.
About the button. Do you hear anything moving when you press the button?

 

I guess it's the VIN (the one at the top of the dash).

Yes. It's some kind of a "chug" sound when I push the trunk button by the driver's door.

 

Is it alright to use a 94 service manual for a 93? Anyway, what were the changes between these two years?

 

Might I suggest employing the search function of this website as many of these questions have been answered a gazillion times.

 

I think my 93 SE AT has a very complicated ignition cylinder problem. Well, here are the factors:
1. Broken key, no spare and I cannot see the other key's half inside.
2. Keyhole in lock position.
3. Steering lock engaged and the steering wheel is locked.
4. Steering wheel in 10 o'clock position.

Anyone has a DIY instructions to remove the cylinder before calling a mechanic/locksmith to do this?

 

Anyone?

 

I have a 93 SE and my left fog light lens was destroyed and I want it replaced. I tried autoshops for this fog light but they don't come up with any. Is there any or a compatible one?

 

check the 3rd gen classifieds here there should be some floating around, also check local junkyards. worst case Ebay

 

other than the VG going from square tooth to round tooth on the timing belt most stuff is the same. the biggest changes were 90 to 91 (rear disc brake caliper/brackets changed and some electrical units and wiring behind the dash was modified), 91 to 92 (VG lost manual by becoming GXE-only, SE gained the VE motor with 2 new LSD transmissions)

 

34552xa for the one on the shifter itself, 34407x for the one on the tranny-side of the cable.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1677_1696.html

 

Thanks for this Anyway, how can I remove the seatbelt retractor by the center? Or is there a retractor in there?

 

Can someone PM me information about where to obtain VTC rebuild or complete replacements? I am in need to do so.

 

you mean where the rolls of seat-belt are? they are under the center console for the shoulder portion, and they are in the b-pillars for the lap portion.

 

My question is, has anyone ever tried to fit nissan Cefiro or Laurel parts onto their 3rd Gen max? Ive been lookin for a carbon hood for this for years, just recently found a realy sick one, but its for the nissan laurel, found another beast for the nissan cefiro(that one is the most promising) but the hoods and basic body shape look identical. just let me know if anyone has tried part swapping with these?