CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

bosch is OEM. you get what you pay for. If you buy cheap injectors and plan to keep the car for a few years, expect to be swapping out failed injectors under warranty every few years. If you want to do the job once and never touch it again, get bosch. Even Deatcheworks injectors fail. PO of my car had a set of 6, then 2 or 3 failed, he replaced those and then something else happened and he said f'it and bought a used set of Bosch injectors from me. Still running on all 6.

Note the picture says "OE-compatible" ie same function/fitment but a different brand... it does not say "OEM brand part". There is a difference.

cadet

Thanks Wookiee. Good to know.
Cadet

mrmonster

ive had a 93 maxima for about 4 months now and the motor has a really bad knocking going on. so I figure its time to put a new one in it. What motors would fit in it. looking for a swap with not to much work a lil more power then the v6 doch motor in it and I have no ideal what motors to look for. can anyone help me out?

Max_Guy_Ga

Help! I have a 92 Maxima GXE that I saved from the junk yard, I have fixed several things. I am stumped on this one, after the car warms up it slips out of overdrive. I have already changed the fluid a couple of times. Could this be related to the Throttle Position Sensor? I havea feeling it's not a tranny change problem though. Any suggestions?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

There's nothing you can swap right in. These cars aren't Civics

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

could be a speed sensor problem or the like, but i would say its probably the trans itself. GXE auto trans were actually designed for 4 cylinder engines, but they used them with VG30E. VG30E make alot of torque so the transmissions on GXE failed early, i would bet at least 3 quarters of GXE are at junkyards because the tranny went

it could be something else but GXE trans are known to fail

Insane Psychologist

I am in Central Texas (Lampasas). I just purchased a 1990 Maxima - Manual Transmission. Looked it over on the lot, drove it around the block, and no oil leaks and full oil reservoir. Drove it home and 'almost' all the oil had drained out.

The car, in my perspective, is in 'poor' condition. Trunk has a lot of rust. seats dry rotted from sitting for 3 years. This engine problem. Paint fading off over top exposures. The carpet was recoverable.

I have BIG plans for this car. This is my 1st project car in over 20 years. I used to fix up VW's to be Baja Bugs, High Boys, and California cruisers. Also worked on old 60's Porche's. And I did many other VW's. I still think they are cool but, I am trying something new here. I do have some mechanic skills.

I am a DIY kind of person... on a shoe string budget.

I lifted it up on jack stands. Cleaned the entire the engine. Changed out the oil and oil filter. (Yes the oil not the transmission ... that was a hilarious turn of events posting). I was extra careful not to disturb any of the connections and wires. I used 'gunk engine cleaner' to get all the oil and crud off.

My intent was to try to observe the oil leak while the engine was running. There are no oil leaks while it is standing after I put in 3.8 quarts of oil and changed out the filter... and air filter.

Some key observations:
- I noticed sludge around the oil spout and inside the oil spout cap. I hope coolant is not leaking into the engine. I hope this is just coked up oil. In the old days we would run 5w-30 through an engine to get all that crud out, is this still a good practice?

- There were no observable leaks else where. No oil on the alternator or anything in that area. The oil was mainly over the front passenger side suspension on the bottom. Passenger side bottom back.

- What I really need is a really good manual on the car. Chilton or Haynes any good? Free manual download link???

- Odd white inline device was not connected (hose split on one end) PN?: 19864-111 is on the part. Anyone???

- An electronic connector was also loose in the area of the part above. Grey plastic. 4 wires, 2 connect to a sensor box on the engine the other two wrap around to a mystery location. PN: 7134-2605-40

- Strange: 3 'house like' plugs connected to alternator, starter and mystery location resting on 'support bar' (center) that goes underneath oil pan. Any ideas?

- After changing the oil, the car will not start. All I get is the start up dash lights.

- All I was given was the 'valet' key, so I do not know if there is remote entry option. The car does have Automatic windows and door locks. And the white back grounds on the dash.

- After market stereo - with a lot of speaker wires... may have had an amp and cross-over - back speakers were un-plugged for some reason...

- A REALLY crappy muffler replacement was done, some of the ugliest pimple welding I have ever seen... and I think it was done by Midas (receipts in car)?

- Again, the car drove 27 miles home on the highway and appeared to over heat when I drove over 60. This could have been the oil leaking or the coolant leaking into the engine (I don't know at the moment... but hope not). However the coolant levels are good.

- All in all, this car needs some work. I would like to get it driving around town as soon as possible, but need help with getting it to start.

- Is there an after market trunk bottom that will hold a full size tire?

I tried the turn the key 2 seconds, I tried resetting all the fuses. (Amazingly, all the fuses I could find have tested good.) [AND locking the doors ] Did this model come with 'clicker alarm' type key? The security light flashes when ever I open the doors and turns off when I close the door.

I just don't know enough about the Maxima to get me quickly to 15 posts to ask my questions independently. Maybe this post will get me there.

If I could get past the starting problem I would be able to move forward on the oil leak problem... and on to the other problems.

Thank in advance for replies.

Cheers!

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to the org, Insane Psychologist,

First and most important, link to the Factory Service Manual (FSM). Although it's for the 94, most of the information still applies to the earlier models.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1994/

For the unknown parts, can you provide pictures of them? Maybe if you look at the FSM you can pinpoint the mysterious connectors.

These cars don't have a remote entry system. On the GXE models, they do have a keyless entry system with a keypad on the front doors. But on the SE models, the one you have, do not have that option.

For the oil issue, check for black/blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe as that may be a sign of oil leaking into the combustion changer. Does the coolant look clean? Also, look under the timing belt cover to see if it's leaking the from camshaft or crankshaft seals.

What some have done to attempt to clean the sludge in the engine is to add Seafoam into the engine, drive it for a couple hundred miles, and change the oil. You can try that to see if that can clean up some of it.

Insane Psychologist

HelloJib -

Thatlink is great. I will be a busydownloader tonight.

Cheers,
IP

Insane Psychologist

Theno start problem. Appears to have resolvedit's self. I am thinking that it must besomething with the clutch sensor or some part of that. Because, I was getting a little pissed off atthe car and punched to the clutched to the floor a couple times and it started again. OR maybe it realized I was going to take acutting torch to it if it did not start. [grin]

Insane Psychologist

After getting this 1990 Maxima to start, I was able to observe where the oil wascoming from.
The oil problem is coming from the half moon area on the oil pan. I watched it literally spray out from thisarea.

I thought it would be a simpleremove the pan, replace the seals job... Oh was I wrong. That oil pan is tucked in there good behindeverything.

Is there supposed to be a wire connected with silicon to the bottom of the oil pan?

I have read the few articles that exist on removing this pan. I would certainly appreciate a link or any other suggestions.

I have not changed out the Radiator fluid, yet, but it looks dark. There is some smoke when the engine first starts. But it is not 'bluish' a bit of black when reved' to 4 on the RPM and when it revs down the smoke becomes grey. Then the exhaust goes clear.

I have never flushed a radiator before... I can read up on this and search the web. If their are any unique requirements to a 3rd Gen Maxima SE thanks in advance for your tips.

Cheers!
IP

Insane Psychologist

Movie of exhaust

I asked my wife to rev to 4 ... she thought I said FLOOR... LOL... but you get a good look at what is coming out the tail pipe. You should get a chuckle on me.



P.S. Can anyone I.D. where those shields on the ground go? ( I will create another post with a better picture)

[And look at that nice rusty donut off to the right, it was rusted to trunk, took a crow bar to pry it off. And my nice worn out rubber spoiler that is falling off... a lot of work!]

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

^^boo!! Can't view on mobile.

Hate that.

Insane Psychologist

Sorry - Just don't have those skills. I will check to see if YouTube has a setting that will make it viewable by phone.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Maybe it was the upload deal you mentioned. It works now.

Edit: Man..thanks for the laugh.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

STOP STOP STOP STOP STOP STOP

rev it again and see if that white exhaust smells sweet, if it is, the headgasket probably went. is the coolant dark like oil got into it? if it looks like theres oil in the coolant, its for sure headgasket

Insane Psychologist

Here is a picture into the radiator well. This car had been sitting with out being started since Nov 2009.

I am going to drain the radiator fluid. Any suggestions after all the fluid is drained?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

The black Mickey Mouse ears is your drain.

Insane Psychologist

Here are some mysteries that maybe you guys can help out with:

Insane Psychologist

Not sweet smelling. I posted a picture of the radiator fluid well. I am going to drain and put new stuff in. I don't think it is broken or leaking. ... at least not in the radiator (hopefully not in the engine).

I have changed the oil and oil filter already. And put in a new Air Filter.

Insane Psychologist

This is an oddity to me as well - three plugs: One goes starter, one goes to the alternator, the third disappears into a bundle.

Insane Psychologist

The auto window and lock controller has come loose. I figured out the plastic push pins on the bottom, but, I can not figure out the tip portion where those two plastic covers are. Do those 'pop' out as well. Are those plastic push pins re-useable, or once you pull them out, do you need new ones when you put it back together.

Insane Psychologist

This is where the oil is spraying out of ... only while running. Does not leak while engine is off...

Insane Psychologist

I think this is my 15th post!

Is this a good place to put the jack stands? If there is a better place please let me know. I have four currently holding the car up along this ridge. (And for safety, I made four wood stands out of 8x8's that are also helping keep me alive.)

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

- what colour is that coolant? looks orange, 3rd gens need green coolant. unless that was once green and theres a tittyload of oil in the coolant or something

-yes thats the rad drain, remove the rad cap, twist out the drain ****, when its drained twist the plug back in. you can remove the heater core hoses from the firewall and blast water into the heater core to flush it as well if you want

-fill the system with new coolant, leave the rad cap off, run the car with the heater full blast. air will burp from the rad filler neck, keep adding coolant as it burps, when the thermostat opens it should be all burped and full of coolant. rad cap can go on then

-yes, that looks like a oxygen sensor

-those shields arent necessary, but if they can be placed on you can do so

-white thing looks like a check valve, if its always been there leave it

-if that connector has always been unplugged and the car runs fine, leave it

-looks like a crank seal leak? if its leaking from there, oil pan has to be removed and seal replaced. ive done a few of those on FWD cars and it can be a bish

-might be burning oil then with that smoke, could just be crap burning off the valves from sitting for a while. if the smoke persists after daily driving the car for a few weeks i would look into it more

-yes the jacks are okay on the edges of the car if they are secure

Insane Psychologist

Chrome 91,

Thanks for that awesome reply.

I have been analyzing and researching the oil pan...

- did you need to hook the engine up to a picker?
- support under the transmission? Those two brackets that are connected to the transmission look like they are mounting brackets.???
- The center cross bar - did you have to lift the engine to remove?
- The exhaustion mounts - do they require a gasket kit? Did you remove the exhaust? Did you have to remove the stabilizer bar to remove the exhaust.

I am beginning to lean towards a head gasket problem. But, want to replace the radiator fluid and run some flushing agent since it sat for so long. Then run a Block Test on it.

I need to find the thermostat as well. I would like to remove it, give it a bath, and clean any sludge it might have in it from sitting for almost 4 years with out being driven.

Again thanks for the reply.

Do you think I should start new threads with my progress reports or should I keep posting on to this one?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Make a thread titled "STOP STOP STOP"
and turn it into your restore/maintenance thread.

Insane Psychologist

Thanks again for your suggestions.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Your too nice.

I'm just having fun.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

-i havent done one on a 3rd gen, last FWD one i did was on a Ford Taurus. was able to get the oil pan out without removing or loosening the subframe but it was a bish to wiggle the pan out. if you have to remove the subframe to remove the oil pan on 3rd gens (again havent owned one in a few years so i dont know if you do), you can secure the engine with a engine brace across both fenders. probably a royal pain to do unless you have a hoist

-VG30E dont blow headgaskets often, but it can happen. fix everything else and see how it runs for a while before worrying more about a blown headgasket. if it still blows white smoke and the coolant looks like theres oil in it in a few weeks, then you should dig deeper

-dont bother with the old thermostat, theyre like 10 bucks new with a gasket. i think the thermostat is on the upper rad hose on 3rd gens, follow the rad hose to the engine. where the rad hose ends at the engine, there should be 2 bolts holding the thermostat housing down. remove them, and the housing will open. thermostat will be inside, remove the old thermostat, clean the area with a razor blade VERY well or else it will leak, then put the new thermostat in the same way. little hole with a pin on the thermostat MUST face upwards, put a new gasket on and bolt the housing back together. best to do this when the coolants already drained so you dont have to bleed the system again

leogex01

I'm a bit confused about the brake light/battery light combo. I just bought a 94 SE 5 spd. The brake light was on and the guy I bought it off said it's been for a while, he figured it was a wonky fluid level sensor and I agreed, no big deal at the time.

I get it home and drive it for a couple of days and notice that the brake light would go out while hitting the throttle, I figure a pesky short, once again no big deal.

A couple of hours ago I cleaned the throttle body, started it up and now the batt. light comes on. After some searching I find it's a sign of a bad alternator. I go outside to do the shadetree alt test and pop the negative cable off, it still runs, but I noticed a fluffy white/blue powder around the post, because this time I'm paying attention. As far as I know that means an overcharging alt. But when I hit the gas the light either dims or goes out and only comes to full brightness at a stop.
My question is; what does the brake light by itself mean and am I looking at the possibility of a battery exploding while I drive up to get it tested?

leogex01

This morning I went and bought a multimeter, the battery reads at about 12.40 +/- .05 with the car not running. With the car running the multimeter reads at 14.25 +/- .05 with a low of 14.11 which seems low but it's above 14.
I cleaned the the terminals, posts, and and the couple contacts I could get to. I'm starting to think that the battery might have a dead cell, but it's the voltage that trips the lights, isn't it? I'm thinking of replacing the battery, I've never heard of Rural King, but it's 2 years old in Oct.
I forgot to mention that the ABS light was on along with the brake light, but that has went out since yesterday, no idea why.

I went back out after reading a few more threads and turned everything on, brights, radio, defrost, a/c - even though I'm not sure that works, and the reading jumped down to 14.13, and stabilized around 14.19. I'm seriously thinking it's the battery, but that dimly batt light is making me nervous.

Any hints, clues, critiques, am I missing something obvious in all of this??

leogex01

Went to Advanced auto. The battery tested fine,alternator tested fine 14.10 no load, 14.09 with load. The starter voltage dropped to 9 and the test recommends to check for loose, worn, or corroded wiring in the starter circuit. I need a new starter anyway, shouldn't be difficult to throw a new starter cable on and replace the terminal contacts.

NAPA has new starters, anyone know anything about them? I don't really want to go autozone or advanced for for anything besides bulbs or wipers.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

-blue fluff is just acid corrosion, some brands (i know Canadian Tire and Interstate batteries especially) are notorious for it. just clean the fluff off with a water hose

-if your alternator is charging at 14.1V, its okay

-is the fluid level low in your brake master cylinder reservoir? when you punch the throttle, the front end can be tipping back enough that the fluid in the reservoir registers fine at the sensor, but when you slow down the fluid levels out and reads low. make sure the fluid level is not low

-Napa new starters are okay, but i would be weary of reman starters or alternators from them. we use them at work, and especially the rebuilt alternators seem to go bad again within 6-8 months

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Yea some items you can go reman on but I would never do a starter or alt

leogex01

The brake fluid level is fine, maybe the sensor is wonky? It doesn't go off all the time when hitting the throttle, then sometimes it just goes off when to barely touch the gas, very weird. I haven't thrown on the new starter yet, but I did clean off the positive connector to the starter solenoid, it wasn't too bad.
I have to drive out to Iowa next month, a 600 mile trip, the light being on is a slight concern.

leogex01

I took the car into the shop today to get the wheelbearing replaced and have them diagnose the charging system. The diodes are bad on the alty. It'll be off to Napa again for the part plus belt.

Ray229Harris

Hey you guys! Just got my 92 nissan maxima yesterday and i've already began working on the physical things like

1.a messed up third break light that was covered with red tape &
2.a seat belt that wouldn't click in on the drivers side.
I have two questions.



1.Sometimes when driving the car won't go faster than 35mph. I think it might be cause the gearshift slips from drive to 2nd gear. What do you all think?



2.I called the nissan dealership about my seatbelt being broken and they said the car had a LIFETIME WARRANTY on seatbelts. Any other things covered by a lifetime warranty on this car?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

what happens when it wont go faster than 35? just keeps revving or what? and yes, in the US 3rd gens have a lifetime seatbelt warranty. dont think anything else does

Max2107

Thought I was in 5th gen thread.

I apologize.