I resently bought a 1994 Gxe, and i was wondering if there was any problems with the gxe? im not sure if im mistaking but i thought i saw something on it saying that the gxe sucks? im not sure though, I have not even seen the car yet but once i have it in my possesion i'll have more information but any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

so you bought a car without seeing it? that's kinda : imo...
anyway, no, the gxe's arent trash, they are fine. you just need to watch the tranny and make sure its been properly maintained. the same is true with the 89-91 SE autos.
hope you enjoy your new car!

 

Sorry I couldn't quote you all in my post- Thanks for your input. I have decided not to pursue the car any further. Thanks again.

 

Just to close the loop, I ended up using the used hinges and they seem to work fine. As I said before, I went through several of the Maximas at the Pull-A-Part and fouind one that didn't seem to have any door drop and I took those hinges. Since someone yanked my front bumper cover off a few weeks ago and I hadn't installed the replacement yet, it looked like the easiest way to do the hinges was to take the fender off. I did run into some trouble. The bottom bolt that you have to open the door to get to broke off, and the bolt at the very bottom of the fender behind the front wheel broke as well. My plan was to install the hinges one at a time with the door closed and then it would line up perfectly. I tried that and the door still hit the latch a little low and then lifted up as it closed completly, So I took the hinge to body bolts a little loose and then jacked the back of the door up to the right height and then tightened the bolts again and now the door works like a charm. I had to drill and tap the holes where the bolts broke, but other than that the job was pretty easy.

 

well my uncle bought it for me and he's seen it but i paid 200 dollars for it, so for a car 200 dollars not bad and i trust my uncle. and since it was so cheap, i can put more money in to it.

 

WHERE THE HELL ARE 94 GXE'S BEING SOLD FOR 200 HEY **** THAT ILL BUY THAT CAR RIGHT NOW HOW MUCH YA WANT FOR IT

 

has anyone else noticed that it costs around $114 for spark plugs on the ve30de! wtf tis up with that. and thats for the OE replacement PFR5C-11 NGK's. insted of using the laser platinums can we use the iridium IX BKR5EIX-11 NGK's? because they are only $10.99 instead of $18.99 a piece for the laser platnums. are iridium plugs crappy like i have heard or are they about the same as the lasers? i need plugs bad so thats why im asking

 

Where the heck are you shopping?
inside the US the coppers are like $2 ea and the laser plats are all over the board on pricing.

 

ok I have a problem and dont know if this is the correct place to post this but here it goes: I got an 89 max and tranny was leaking fluid when I got it. well after putting it up on stands and getting under the car I noticed a hole in the bell housing. is there anyway to fix this without getting a new tranny? if not does anyone know where I can get a good transmission without selling my soul to afford it? if so send me an e-mail at port9productions@hotmail.com thanks and I am glad I found this site!

 

for a ve30de oem is platinum. and its $18.99 at schucks, napa, and autozone. i will only stick with oem or better because im picky like that. and yes coppers are $1.98 a piece for vg30e's

 

brian knows his stuff, so I recommend you don' dis' 'em. he may come across as a smartass, sometimes, but he is worth his weight in platinum plugs. perhaps a search of the forum may reveal a good alternative to the "expensive" plugs .

 

if i dissrespected him im sorry i didnt try to i was just saying that everywhere i have tryed its all $18.99 a piece and i wasnt sure if he knew i had a VE so thats y i said for the ve30de its $18.99 a piece and it is 1.98 for the vg plugs.



also has anyone used iridium plugs? because they are $7-$8 cheeper than the platinums

 

Order them online from www.ngk.com it's cheaper not direct only thru one reseller I bought mine through the dealership which cost me the same amount as the ngk site here is the exact page you'll need, just keep it simple. http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1211375

Edit: In response to the VG plugs only costing a $1.98 yeah you can run the coppers but I use the same
OEM NGK PFR5C-11 Double Platinum Plugs in my VG as I did my VE they burn hotter and I have an increase of atleast 15-20 hp using them, I recommend them to anyone running a VG or a VE.

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...Number=PFR5C11
thats how much it would cost me per plug here at schucks but i think im going to go with the iridium IX plugs because iridium is 6 times stronger and 8 times harder than platinum but is more conductive then platinum plugs. also its cheaper because iridium is less expencive to make into plugs than platinum for some reason. and they would only cost me $10.99 a piece. but a quick question... has anyone bought from ngk.com? and if so are they any good?

 

Actually OE is a Laser Platinum, not just a plain old Platinum.
I sell them on my website for $10 a pop so $19 seems outrageous to me for the same plug. http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...c11-p-367.html
you can run a copper in the VE as well, with the only apparent ill effect being more frequent plug changes.

 

Yeah I do come across as a wise guy sometimes. it's just my sarcastic nature. I'm actually a decent standup guy as those who have met me know.
I do like the line " he is worth his weight in platinum plugs" shame it won't fit under my screen name

 

I think we'd get along pretty damn well in the same room. and you have my permission to add it to your sig.(since maxus is over there's plenty of space)

 

I have access to a newly rebuilt vg30e the guy had it rebuilt it for his daughter and then someone t-boned her so the car is totalled he says he just put 3k into the motor and it has less than 10,000 miles on it hw wants to sell the whole car how much should i offe rhe is asking 1500 but i would have to drive a truck and a flatbed trailer about 500 miles round trip so im looking at some gas $ any suggs?

 

1500 for an engine(and parts off a busted *** parts car) aint worth 1500+gas+truck+trailer(and with the truck getting, what, 15mpg? thats an additional 133.33 or so in gas...)

edit: forgot to mention the full day of doing nothing else, but driving.

 

hmmmmm, 2500!!! ... Nah im just playin. Im Probably not gonna sell it for a while lol.
And being sold in des moines iowa! haha.


Does any1 know what engine it might have in it?

 

I just bought a oil catch can for the Maxima. Problem is I underestimated the ease of installation and there are no instructions and I didn't take the time to locate the PCV and etc.

From what I've read here it's to the drivers side of the brake booster but I don't like to go off of what I'm told until I can confirm that I'm doing it right. Edit: I read my manual, it's definately what I thought it was but wow doesn't look as sophisticated as I expected.

If anyone could also lay down what I need to do with this kit extra credit to you. Here is a picture of the kit I bought.



The thing that puzzles me the most about it is the thing over to the far right. One side is hollow and the other side is solid which means it can't be a female to female connector or anything.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

Definitely has the VG30E unless its been swapped (very unlikely).

 

Hi

I'm learning the ropes as far as mechanical concerns go here and I need some opinions. My 93 Maxima SE just had an injector die. According to the guide here http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=158298 this is a fairly intensive process.

I've done things like breaks, regular maintainance, electrical stuff, and other intro work. However, this would be my first real project. It involves taking off the whole intake plenum etc to get at the injectors. Is this something at my level?

Secondly, is it harmful to the car to run it without a cylinder firing? I heard it can cause the piston to 'flop' around and damage the walls.

 

it is something that can be done fairly easily at home. It's more time intensive if it's a rear cylinder than if it's a front cylinder.
running with a misfire will harm fuel economy and the longevity of the engine f done for a long time. to run a few weeks with a misfire won't really hurt anything on a VE in my experience (which is quite extensive 10 injectors to date)

 

I've been stalking the forums for a few weeks now. I've got a 91 Maxima VG30E. About 2 months ago, I noticed that the car would sound very bogged down until I drove it a few miles or rev'd the engine up a couple times. It went away and I thought nothing of it for a few weeks(thought it was bad gas, maybe). About 2 weeks ago, it started bogging down and didn't stop. Now, I've changed plugs, wires, checked the distributor cap, fixed a vacumm hose(which seemed to help things quite a bit), changed the oil, used a fuel system cleaner, and checked the injectors. After I changed that vacuum hose (the one running to the intake valves), it's back to sporadically bogging down.

I've narrowed the problem down to one cylinder not firing. The injector is not leaking gas (I checked that using advice found here). I haven't ohm'd out the injector yet because I haven't gotten my hands on an ohm meter yet. I disconnected it while it was running and couldn't tell a difference (still bogged down), so it must be that cylinder. I'm thinking that the injector is bad and not opening correctly. I won't know for sure until I ohm the injector. Does it sound like I'm on the right track and does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

 

As always i spend hours reading these forums and as of late i have been reading alot on turbo applications for our maximas which have brung up some thing i dont quite understand cuz all this info is just overwhelming at times and not everyone on the org is a expert (or they give false info)

1) was doing some searching and kept seeing one guy say that the 300zx engine was built for turbo and from other sources on the org that these engines can handle up to 600hp!!! (something our max cant handle)
~This is something that has confused me, isn't the "vg30et" in the 300zx the same exact engine in maxima?(vg30e) so why cant our max handle as much hp as it? (excluding weak tranny)

2) as far as boosting... seems that our tranny is the biggest problem, i know their are places like level10 that can bulletproof it and stuff but cost $$$ (hey if it works im in for it, i do love the max after all)
~the concern here is auto vs manual.... boosted auto = dead tranny. ok but what about boosted Vlsd? (wats its breaking point without rebuild) are both ok bulletproof in which case it doesnt matter as far lasting and handling the load of boost? (not in the aspect of personal driving preference auto vs. 5spd)

3) is all as simple as bulletproof your tranny and the sky is the limit?


looking for answers from the pros
help a confused newb understand better

 

15-20 hp gain from spark plugs? Wow...is that possible?

 

how do you push the rear caliper back?
do i need a special tool? (abs)

 

look at the caliper piston, you will see divots around the edge. take a pair of needle nosed pliers, and turn. I cannot remember if it is clockwise, or countercw, but it will be evident soon enough.

 

not unless his old ones were completely shot and he had other issues they were masking.

 

Update: I ohm'd the injector and got a reading of 21 ohms. Nissan's maximum range is 10-14 ohms. Sound like I've got a bad injector. I figure I might try to pull one from the local pull-a-part for practice and hopefully it will work. Is that a good idea or should I buy a new or refurbished one? Thanks for your input!

 

Its best to just buy new.

Used or rebuilt injectors typically last just a few months, if that.

 

thank you

 

thank you

 

I appreciate te help! Thanks!

 

Then again, at $70 a pop, you're going to spend $410 if you do all 6. Sending working, but old, injectors to a service like this one : http://www.witchhunter.com/ costs $18 per injector.

You probably get what you pay for, but 6 'refurbished' injectors for $108 + cost isn't so bad in comparison. No?

 

well, not exactly. if you are getting a pacemaker do you want a nice fresh unit, or one that was pulled out of a patient that just died, was cleaned up, and offered to you for a much lower price? you get what you pay for with new injectors, and you get LESS than you pay for with remans.

 

Thats a common argument, but sooner or later you'll end up paying that $108 + new injectors. Its not an issue of dirt or clogging. I know its expensive, it sucks big time, but it’s a maintenance cost.

Original injectors last 10-15 years and about 100K miles, there is no reason to expect anything less from a new replacement, but you'll get a year tops from a used or rebuilt, and you will end up doing more work and having more downtime.

A compromise is to buy a new one every time one fails (more work), or buy 3, replace the under-plenum ones, and keep your old 3 to replace the easy-to-reach ones as they fail eventually.

 

Well now I'm partially convinced. A different question: which ones are the easy to replace ones? I thought they all required plenum removal.

 

On the VE30DE engine (SE 92-94) there are 3 on the radiator side which can come out without pulling the plenum, but it can be tricky and some may prefer to get the entire fuel rail out in which case its a bit of a squeeze. The other 3 are under the plenum.

Someone else will post on the VG30E engine (all other 3rd gens), I have never worked on that one.