*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 80
From: Spokane WA
So I did a tranny swap on my 1990,SE automatic. Now when I turn the key to acc (just before start position) I can hear what sounds like a pump running in the tranny. Also I see the Power indacator lamp blink 16 times. I can unplug the 8 prong connector from the tranny to the wire harnes and the pump sound stops. Is this gonna be a problem? The car runs out ok but I have felt it slip at high RPM's a few times.
BTW I tried the tranny self check and it didnt work.
BTW I tried the tranny self check and it didnt work.
window regulators are fairly easy to replace, ad can be found on ebay for $20-40. so if you are willing to do the work yourself, it won't be too expensive, even if all four are bad. however, a shop could easily charge you an hour for each window, and $120 for each regulator, causing the $$$$ to go up. (it takes nowhere near an hour for each window, but a crooked shop would easily charge that much, and labor is expensive, already)
heres where u can get regulators for cheap
http://www.am-autoparts.com/ $30-$40 depending on front or rear
mufflers are cheap but check your flex section and exhaust manifold studs as well
if its just the actual muffler, it wont be much to fix. if its really bad, you can get a new muffler for around $40 and just get the old one cut off and the new one clamped or preferably welded on. if it just has some holes in it, you can buy a patch kit at automotive stores
When I say tune/trick-out (was trying to put in Layman's Terms)
I mean modify in ways that will increase performance or the aesthetics of the car.
Since my 89' Nissan Maxima has an automatic transmission and the SOHC engine, I would like some suggestions on exactly what performance options I have. Please state any cheap ways to gain an extra 10hp or expensive ways to gain even more.
I mean modify in ways that will increase performance or the aesthetics of the car.
Since my 89' Nissan Maxima has an automatic transmission and the SOHC engine, I would like some suggestions on exactly what performance options I have. Please state any cheap ways to gain an extra 10hp or expensive ways to gain even more.
performance camshafts
turbo
those are the three best mods for real horsepower but they are expensive and complcated
what u want to ask is whats the best way to mod the car with a certain amount of cash and it could help telliin us whats already been replaced and what might break soon....
but yeah ask this guy if he thinks fixing up a 3rd gen is a "dumb question" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eXL6hqQO1Q
there is no such thing as a "best place." if there is, nobody has told me, otherwise I would have one. 
your best bet would be to scour your local newspapers, as well as craigslist.
edit: wait... are you talking about a 92-94 SE, or a VE engine?
if its the engine, you are better off rebuilding. there is nearly no such thing as a "low milage," 15 year old engine. if it is low mileage, I would be more worried than if it had, say, 200k on the clock...
your best bet would be to scour your local newspapers, as well as craigslist.
edit: wait... are you talking about a 92-94 SE, or a VE engine?
if its the engine, you are better off rebuilding. there is nearly no such thing as a "low milage," 15 year old engine. if it is low mileage, I would be more worried than if it had, say, 200k on the clock...
Last edited by BenStoked; Apr 5, 2009 at 09:52 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 513
From: Charleston, SC
Thinking about the things to come and... just wanted numbers on what its going to take to rebuild the engine in my 92 GXE? I already spent a goodbit to keep it going about $600 as of right now. Also im think im gonna go this week to get the fenders off another max how to take them off?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 333
From: Austin, TX
Thinking about the things to come and... just wanted numbers on what its going to take to rebuild the engine in my 92 GXE? I already spent a goodbit to keep it going about $600 as of right now. Also im think im gonna go this week to get the fenders off another max how to take them off?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5
From: El Dorado, KS
I already have the '94 SE and the VE in it evidently threw a rod...haven't looked yet. Picked the car up today for $400 bucks.
I just figured i'd get another engine for it because I imagined it'd probably be the cheaper route.
I just figured i'd get another engine for it because I imagined it'd probably be the cheaper route.
I believe your local junk yard would be the best bet on this.
you should be able to get one (if you can find one) for less than $200, and get that rebuilt.
edit: nice find!
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
From: Seattle
suspention
Hi I want to add larger sway bars to my 89 and I was look at just ordering something off of eBay. But before I go and do that I wanted to know if anyone has any input on the subject. So just let me know what worked for you or what didn't, thanks for the help.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 333
From: Austin, TX
Z32 MAF
My mass airflow sensor on my 92 VE just went out. Again. I thought I had saw a thread somewhere on this forum (I already did a search) that you could put a Z32 MAF on a VE. If I'am wrong please correct me, but if this is true could you please point me in the right direction.
Thanks
Thanks
My mass airflow sensor on my 92 VE just went out. Again. I thought I had saw a thread somewhere on this forum (I already did a search) that you could put a Z32 MAF on a VE. If I'am wrong please correct me, but if this is true could you please point me in the right direction.
Thanks
Thanks
I have a good used ve maf for sale if you want it..
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
From: Mira mesa
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 9
From: NW Georgia
About how much would a 5-speed swap cost?
I appreciate all the input, I had a brother that was into cars alot more than me and would help be unfortunately he is no longer "with us". Im also thinking of maybe having this as a secind car and setting it up in a rally config
I appreciate all the input, I had a brother that was into cars alot more than me and would help be unfortunately he is no longer "with us". Im also thinking of maybe having this as a secind car and setting it up in a rally config
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 513
From: Charleston, SC
Ive seen many different springs some are 1.2, 1.5, 2, and I think 2.5" drops my stock springs already have the tires about to touch the body so i know 2.5 would kill it 2 would set me at good point but with the system and people getting in the back from time to time i know 2" would rub like crazy so my question is is 1.5 the way to go with this?
Ive seen many different springs some are 1.2, 1.5, 2, and I think 2.5" drops my stock springs already have the tires about to touch the body so i know 2.5 would kill it 2 would set me at good point but with the system and people getting in the back from time to time i know 2" would rub like crazy so my question is is 1.5 the way to go with this?
our Macpherson suspensions can't compress more than a few inches before the camber starts becoming positive.... which really hurts the car's ability to corner. because our cars are so old, nobody makes redesigned front control arms w/ extended balljoints (relocated mounting spot for the parallel links in the rear), so there is currently no way to fix this problem unless you are an expert at automotive suspension systems, and can fabricate custom $tuff
therefore, the only reason to go lower than 1.5" is if you are clinically insane, that is, you wake up in the morning and think you are an onion.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 513
From: Charleston, SC
there are no 2.5" that i've heard of but don't go past 1.5 at the most if you value a) your car's ride b) your car's ability to go around a corner without losing control and c) your ability to use a set of tires for more than a few thousand miles
our Macpherson suspensions can't compress more than a few inches before the camber starts becoming positive.... which really hurts the car's ability to corner. because our cars are so old, nobody makes redesigned front control arms w/ extended balljoints (relocated mounting spot for the parallel links in the rear), so there is currently no way to fix this problem unless you are an expert at automotive suspension systems, and can fabricate custom $tuff
therefore, the only reason to go lower than 1.5" is if you are clinically insane, that is, you wake up in the morning and think you are an onion.
our Macpherson suspensions can't compress more than a few inches before the camber starts becoming positive.... which really hurts the car's ability to corner. because our cars are so old, nobody makes redesigned front control arms w/ extended balljoints (relocated mounting spot for the parallel links in the rear), so there is currently no way to fix this problem unless you are an expert at automotive suspension systems, and can fabricate custom $tuff
therefore, the only reason to go lower than 1.5" is if you are clinically insane, that is, you wake up in the morning and think you are an onion.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 9
From: NW Georgia
but yeah ask this guy if he thinks fixing up a 3rd gen is a "dumb question" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eXL6hqQO1Q
Another thing, the VG30E engine, I was thinking it was a SOHC, as far as I can tell (correct me please if Im wrong) it is not a OHC engine at all. Please some info.
Last edited by TLM4590; Apr 7, 2009 at 11:21 AM.
VE30DE (92-94 SE only) is 24v DOHC with a timing chain
we don't use no stinkin' pushrods here
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 9
From: NW Georgia
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 80
From: Spokane WA
Jumping in to get dirty
on my car it took me 12 days working a few hours a day. that was in feb of 08. 2 weeks ago on nc90gxe's car, working about 4-5 hrs a day, it took me 4 days. part of that was the fact that we didn't get a flywheel until the 3rd day.. we could have finished in 3 if not for that.
mine cost $350 for a fully functional driveable parts car, $30 for fluid, $20 for axle seals, and $10 for a hole saw for the clutch master cylinder. car was driveable at this point. drove it daily just like this for 3 months, but the pressure in my clutch line kept building and building until the pedal was uber-stiff and the clutch would slip. i have no idea what actually caused this.
afterward i had to buy a new clutch master cylinder due to a leak ($40) a new clutch kit $175, a new flywheel $60, a new clutch line $20, a new fork boot $5, a new reverse/neutral position sensor $25, and a slave cylinder rebuilt kit $10. much of this was preemptive repair, because i just wanted to have new parts. I didn't have a job when i first did the swap, so i installed the 'afterward' stuff 3 months later after i got a job. of course, the clutch slippage issue was resolved after all the clutch-related parts i replaced.
if you have to source stuff individually, you can probably get all the parts/tranny you need at a junkyard for $300ish. save the receipt in case you have a bad bearing in the tranny or leaky hydraylics, etc. i can provide a detailed list with some pics if you need it. there's a few parsts you wouldn't think to grab that you actually do need. you do not NEED a manual ECU, but it does help with idle return and such. i am still using an automatic ECU.
fwiw the most challenging task i'd ever done on a car prior to doing my 5spd swap was putting new brake pads on my friend's car. i jumped in, got my hands dirty, learned what not to do next time, and had fun.
mine cost $350 for a fully functional driveable parts car, $30 for fluid, $20 for axle seals, and $10 for a hole saw for the clutch master cylinder. car was driveable at this point. drove it daily just like this for 3 months, but the pressure in my clutch line kept building and building until the pedal was uber-stiff and the clutch would slip. i have no idea what actually caused this.
afterward i had to buy a new clutch master cylinder due to a leak ($40) a new clutch kit $175, a new flywheel $60, a new clutch line $20, a new fork boot $5, a new reverse/neutral position sensor $25, and a slave cylinder rebuilt kit $10. much of this was preemptive repair, because i just wanted to have new parts. I didn't have a job when i first did the swap, so i installed the 'afterward' stuff 3 months later after i got a job. of course, the clutch slippage issue was resolved after all the clutch-related parts i replaced.
if you have to source stuff individually, you can probably get all the parts/tranny you need at a junkyard for $300ish. save the receipt in case you have a bad bearing in the tranny or leaky hydraylics, etc. i can provide a detailed list with some pics if you need it. there's a few parsts you wouldn't think to grab that you actually do need. you do not NEED a manual ECU, but it does help with idle return and such. i am still using an automatic ECU.
fwiw the most challenging task i'd ever done on a car prior to doing my 5spd swap was putting new brake pads on my friend's car. i jumped in, got my hands dirty, learned what not to do next time, and had fun.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
Noob here, and im having a problem with my 93 SE
It has 189000 on the ticker, less than 200 miles ago i put in a new air filter, changed the oil, new oil filter, and put in new spark plugs (BOSCH 4 PRONG PLATINUMS, which i read are apparently no good) Ran great until the check engine light came on a couple days ago. It feels like it is misfiring, rough idle and hesitates when accelerating.
A little background on the car, has had a lifter tick since i got it at 154000, use to do it only when cold and totally go away when warm, lately it has been more subtle, but all the time.
I pulled a code 51 off the computer (injectors) Before i start demolishing the car and checking everything, is there any places i should start first?
I had thought the lifter had finally seized and was holding a valve open or closed and misfiring, but i get no misfire codes from the ECU.
any suggestions would be great
thanks
gaven
San Francisco California
It has 189000 on the ticker, less than 200 miles ago i put in a new air filter, changed the oil, new oil filter, and put in new spark plugs (BOSCH 4 PRONG PLATINUMS, which i read are apparently no good) Ran great until the check engine light came on a couple days ago. It feels like it is misfiring, rough idle and hesitates when accelerating.
A little background on the car, has had a lifter tick since i got it at 154000, use to do it only when cold and totally go away when warm, lately it has been more subtle, but all the time.
I pulled a code 51 off the computer (injectors) Before i start demolishing the car and checking everything, is there any places i should start first?
I had thought the lifter had finally seized and was holding a valve open or closed and misfiring, but i get no misfire codes from the ECU.
any suggestions would be great
thanks
gaven
San Francisco California
Noob here, and im having a problem with my 93 SE
It has 189000 on the ticker, less than 200 miles ago i put in a new air filter, changed the oil, new oil filter, and put in new spark plugs (BOSCH 4 PRONG PLATINUMS, which i read are apparently no good) Ran great until the check engine light came on a couple days ago. It feels like it is misfiring, rough idle and hesitates when accelerating.
A little background on the car, has had a lifter tick since i got it at 154000, use to do it only when cold and totally go away when warm, lately it has been more subtle, but all the time.
I pulled a code 51 off the computer (injectors) Before i start demolishing the car and checking everything, is there any places i should start first?
I had thought the lifter had finally seized and was holding a valve open or closed and misfiring, but i get no misfire codes from the ECU.
any suggestions would be great
thanks
gaven
San Francisco California
It has 189000 on the ticker, less than 200 miles ago i put in a new air filter, changed the oil, new oil filter, and put in new spark plugs (BOSCH 4 PRONG PLATINUMS, which i read are apparently no good) Ran great until the check engine light came on a couple days ago. It feels like it is misfiring, rough idle and hesitates when accelerating.
A little background on the car, has had a lifter tick since i got it at 154000, use to do it only when cold and totally go away when warm, lately it has been more subtle, but all the time.
I pulled a code 51 off the computer (injectors) Before i start demolishing the car and checking everything, is there any places i should start first?
I had thought the lifter had finally seized and was holding a valve open or closed and misfiring, but i get no misfire codes from the ECU.
any suggestions would be great
thanks
gaven
San Francisco California
2. It's not a lifter ticking, called VTC clack, read up about this in the general maintenance sticky.
3. Code 51 means you have a bad injector, you can find out which one it is by unplugging the ignition coils one at a time, while the engine is running... listening to the engine, you will notice a drop in idle/rougher running while each coil is unplugged, the one that doesn't change the idle/sound of the engine will be the cylinder with the bad injector...
Be sure you plug each coil back in before unplugging the next coil in your test..
So Im thinking of doing a 5-speed swap on my 90 SE. I have a 5-speed tranny and clutch kit already and I found a donor car at the JY but Im not sure what all I need to pull. Would you be willing to send me that list and pictures to give me the confidence to pull this project off?
- 5spd tranny
- 5 upper trans bolts (all14mm-head)
- 4 M10-1.5x57mm
- 1 M10-1.5x62mm (in front by starter)
- 5 upper trans bolts (all14mm-head)
- 7 lower trans bolts
- 2 12mm-head bolts towards front of the car
- 2 M8-1.25x25mm
- 5 14mm-head bolts on underside and rear trans
- 4 M10-1.5x30mm
- 1 M10-1.5x57mm
- 2 12mm-head bolts towards front of the car
- flywheel (6 14-mm head bolts)
- clutch/pressure plate (6 or 9 12mm-head bolts w/ washers. If you only find 6, buy 3 more)*
- throwout bearing aka TOB*
- 2 plates between engine and trans (one full ring, one half ring)
- engine-to-trans gussets (reuse the 4 gusset-to-block bolts from a/t setup)
- front trans mount (3 short bolts and 1 long bolt to trans body, 1 long bolt w/ nut to bracket all 14-mm head iirc)
- front trans mount bracket (attaches to frame. 3 short 14mm-head bolts)
- rear trans mount (1 long 14mm-head bolt w/ nut to bracket & 2 more 14mm-head nuts to tranny ‘handle’. Bracket on frame is the same m/t or a/t)
- slave cylinder (2 14mm-headed bolts)
- clutch hose (rubber) and clutch hose (metal pre-bent). Ignore the thing with the large coil of hose.. it’s a hassle to bleed, and not needed.
- Clutch master cylinder
- Clutch pedal assembly (2 12mm-head nuts on studs, 1 12mm-headed bolt for bracket, and the welded spacer piece on the inside of the firewall)
- The 2 little harnesses for the clutch switches (cruise control and start switch)
- Shifter assembly (2 rods, base, return spring, stick, ****, boot) ditch the old studs and just attach it to the body with 4 nuts and 4 bolts that you will buy yourself. This might take 2 people to do.
- Support rod plate (is attached to the tranny during installation using 2 out of the 7 “lower trans bolts” listed above)
- VE 5spd axles
- and either VE 5spd hubs OR to swap outer CV joints from the VG axles onto the VE axle shafts.
*items recommended to be purchased new
Last edited by CapedCadaver; Apr 10, 2009 at 02:42 PM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
greeny
thanks for the info
new plugs is going to be my first step and see what happens.
If nothing changes then ill move onto testing the injectors.
Ive heard of vtc, and grounding them to get them to stop, but mine sounds nothing like this...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KfbhYqYY38 Its much more subtle
thanks for the info
new plugs is going to be my first step and see what happens.
If nothing changes then ill move onto testing the injectors.
Ive heard of vtc, and grounding them to get them to stop, but mine sounds nothing like this...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KfbhYqYY38 Its much more subtle
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 5
From: El Dorado, KS
Friend recommended tigerjapanese.com for me to order my engine from. He's bought there before so I checked it out. They have a (JDM) VE i'm looking for, and I could have it for $709 shipped to my door.
I just wanted to find out if this seemed like a good deal. Opinions please?
I just wanted to find out if this seemed like a good deal. Opinions please?
Friend recommended tigerjapanese.com for me to order my engine from. He's bought there before so I checked it out. They have a (JDM) VE i'm looking for, and I could have it for $709 shipped to my door.
I just wanted to find out if this seemed like a good deal. Opinions please?
I just wanted to find out if this seemed like a good deal. Opinions please?
not calling jdm a crock of crap, but rather, i find it suspicious that these engines are still available, after all this time....
not to mention, mechanically, there is absolutely NO difference between JDM and USDM engines for our cars.