*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
12-29-2007, 05:26 PM
#121
Originally Posted by ???????
hi...I'm sorry to post here...i had no other choice as i had no privileges to put up a new post..i really need some help and your valuable suggestion for my Maxima 94 GXE..it was running fine until last week and all of a sudden it stopped..i showed to mechanic and after two days it started..and now again it doesn't starts...no one is ready to fix it..i dont know what the problem is..the battery is brand new...could anyone please suggest me what to do....i was thinking of going to the showroom..but scared that they might charge me more...please help me..thanks
2. does it crank or "turn over" but not actually start?
there are many things it could be. I'm personally thinking the starter right now, but without more detailed info it's hard to tell you.
3. what is with all the double periods??
I also fixed your spelling as I am fairly fluent in ESL and Ghetto.
what do you mean by showroom... a new car?
there is a list of things that could cause a car not to start.
(hey mods: sticky idea!!! "MY CAR DOESN'T START" thread... diagnosis of typical non-startong problems...)
yeah, more info please!
12-30-2007, 01:52 PM
#122
So I keep finidng tiny bits of rust in locations i dont check often, like behind seats, and little dots. Very little all together, maybe 2 square inches if you add it all up. Does everyone have a little bit here and there? What can I do to make sure it doesn't spread. My car is 18 years old, meaning it has had quite a few winters so some rust is guarenteed. What the best thing to do about it
12-30-2007, 02:03 PM
#124
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: DFW
Posts: 29
Any suggestions on struts replacement for a daily driver. I just drive this thing and want a little smoother ride. The roads are rough here in Texas and I believe they are bad. 114000 miles on the car and I don't think they have been replaced.
12-30-2007, 03:17 PM
#125
So I keep finidng tiny bits of rust in locations i dont check often, like behind seats, and little dots. Very little all together, maybe 2 square inches if you add it all up. Does everyone have a little bit here and there? What can I do to make sure it doesn't spread. My car is 18 years old, meaning it has had quite a few winters so some rust is guarenteed. What the best thing to do about it
worked well on my old blazer
12-30-2007, 03:19 PM
#126
2 remove screw
3. pull until they pop out
there is a ball and socket joint on the lower part that holds it in besides the screw
on the other 2 you're on your own. I've never owned a
VG
12-30-2007, 03:45 PM
#127
--->
12-30-2007, 05:34 PM
#128
Like the car wont move at all, it almost feels like somethings binding, and with the clutch in or out it wont move. If I back out onto a hill and it does whatever the hell it does. It just sits there and wont move. It will also get stuck and I have to force it back into Neutral.
12-30-2007, 05:45 PM
#130
Like the car wont move at all, it almost feels like somethings binding, and with the clutch in or out it wont move. If I back out onto a hill and it does whatever the hell it does. It just sits there and wont move. It will also get stuck and I have to force it back into Neutral.
Do you hear a grinding/scrapping noise when the transmission is in neutral with the clutch pedal not pushed in?
12-30-2007, 05:47 PM
#131
KYB is the most economical of the good choices.
12-30-2007, 05:48 PM
#132
I have the same issue with my manual trans when it's cold outside,with a cold engine,the problem is most likely a bad input shaft bearing(inside the transmission).
Do you hear a grinding/scrapping noise when the transmission is in neutral with the clutch pedal not pushed in?
Do you hear a grinding/scrapping noise when the transmission is in neutral with the clutch pedal not pushed in?
but remember i am not a mechanic, just a wrench turner on my own cars.
12-30-2007, 05:55 PM
#135
I only asked him if he is hearing the grinding noise to confirm a bad input shaft bearing on his end.
12-30-2007, 07:51 PM
#136
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: DFW
Posts: 29
wheres the screw located? Just one screw for removal? not sure i've ever seen a ball and socket? Maybe your terminology is different than mine?
12-30-2007, 07:57 PM
#137
then look around for a screw. once you get that screw out and pull the light out you will realize what the ball and socket I am referring to is.
you can see where the screw goes in that pic.
Last edited by internetautomar; 12-30-2007 at 08:00 PM.
12-30-2007, 08:01 PM
#138
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: DFW
Posts: 29
Oh, ok I see the screw. I though thats what removed it. Now just tug or pry and it should come out? I don't have to remove the headlight at all? How difficult should it be to get the ball and socket to release?
12-31-2007, 10:49 AM
#140
after a large bill for other ailing parts, I decided to open my oil cap. No particular reason, just looked. I almost cried when I saw a mayonaise colored cream substance on the inside of my engine. The car hasn't had a good run in a few days due to brake repair, and sits a lot of the time. I regret to say it has hit high rpms with cold engine, but isn't really abused at all. It has made only extremely short runs with the brake problem which I have had for a few days. It has no other signs of head gasket failure. What would cause this? Is there anything else at all?
12-31-2007, 01:58 PM
#144
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: DFW
Posts: 29
well I got the crazy light out and busted the socket? Maybe I did it wrong? I believe the plastic was just brittle though.
Now is it worth it to replace the struts? Significant improvement in ride?
I need to figure out how to get my dash apart now. Fan switch is busted. I got the replacement, but don't want to go breaking stuff off on my dash. Where do I start to remove the switch on the a/c panel?
Now is it worth it to replace the struts? Significant improvement in ride?
I need to figure out how to get my dash apart now. Fan switch is busted. I got the replacement, but don't want to go breaking stuff off on my dash. Where do I start to remove the switch on the a/c panel?
12-31-2007, 02:00 PM
#145
well I got the crazy light out and busted the socket? Maybe I did it wrong? I believe the plastic was just brittle though.
Now is it worth it to replace the struts? Significant improvement in ride?
I need to figure out how to get my dash apart now. Fan switch is busted. I got the replacement, but don't want to go breaking stuff off on my dash. Where do I start to remove the switch on the a/c panel?
Now is it worth it to replace the struts? Significant improvement in ride?
I need to figure out how to get my dash apart now. Fan switch is busted. I got the replacement, but don't want to go breaking stuff off on my dash. Where do I start to remove the switch on the a/c panel?
this is the noobie under 15 post thread dude..congrats,you can now start your own thread,just add all your question/concerns into your thread..
12-31-2007, 05:27 PM
#146
I have the same issue with my manual trans when it's cold outside,with a cold engine,the problem is most likely a bad input shaft bearing(inside the transmission).
Do you hear a grinding/scrapping noise when the transmission is in neutral with the clutch pedal not pushed in?
Do you hear a grinding/scrapping noise when the transmission is in neutral with the clutch pedal not pushed in?
Yes. And that's usually when it does it. When it's cold. It does have kinda of a roar when the clutch is engaged in Neutral. ( I can only hear it at idle)
12-31-2007, 05:33 PM
#147
12-31-2007, 09:10 PM
#148
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Redding, California
Posts: 71
On that forward marker lamp, if you open your hood, and look just inside the left front corner, you will see a small somewhat triangular tab extending out from the back of the plastic marker housing. There is one small screw that holds the entire assembly in place. The trailing outer edge of the marker lamp has several tabs that locate into holes in the matching contours of the fender pocket where the lamp is positioned. After you remove that one screw, carefully rock the lamp assembly while pulling it towards the front of the car. It should loosen and break loose from the fender pocket. Be careful NOT to pull it out to the SIDE of the fender as it loosens up, or you will probably break off thetabs that help to position the tail end of the fixture. After it is completely loose, you will have to detach the plug that fits into the back of the fixture. There is usually a tab on the plug itself that must be pushed down to release it. The plug is mounted on a boss extending from the bottom, inside corner of the light's rear cover. The release mechanism is a tab you push down while pulling, however, the forward end of the "tab" has two small plastic hooks that peek out through holes in the female side of the plug. They may have to be pushed inward with a punch or similer pointy device to finally clear the outer plug housing. Installation is performed in thereverse order.
12-31-2007, 09:21 PM
#149
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Redding, California
Posts: 71
TO MyGreenMax94:
The face panel in 89 to 94 Maximas is virtually impossible to remove without breaking off the tabs that secure it near the top. There are several screws down near the ash tray and under the overhang. Remove these first of course. On the three tabs that secure the top edge, you might try an Xacto hobby knife in the center and two upper corner tabs. Most of the time, they break. The AC panel sits behind that, and will release with the removal of several screws at each end.
You may have to disconnect the inside/outside air flow switch cable under the dash to pull the assembly free.
The face panel in 89 to 94 Maximas is virtually impossible to remove without breaking off the tabs that secure it near the top. There are several screws down near the ash tray and under the overhang. Remove these first of course. On the three tabs that secure the top edge, you might try an Xacto hobby knife in the center and two upper corner tabs. Most of the time, they break. The AC panel sits behind that, and will release with the removal of several screws at each end.
You may have to disconnect the inside/outside air flow switch cable under the dash to pull the assembly free.
12-31-2007, 11:41 PM
#150
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: DFW
Posts: 29
TO MyGreenMax94:
The face panel in 89 to 94 Maximas is virtually impossible to remove without breaking off the tabs that secure it near the top. There are several screws down near the ash tray and under the overhang. Remove these first of course. On the three tabs that secure the top edge, you might try an Xacto hobby knife in the center and two upper corner tabs. Most of the time, they break. The AC panel sits behind that, and will release with the removal of several screws at each end.
You may have to disconnect the inside/outside air flow switch cable under the dash to pull the assembly free.
The face panel in 89 to 94 Maximas is virtually impossible to remove without breaking off the tabs that secure it near the top. There are several screws down near the ash tray and under the overhang. Remove these first of course. On the three tabs that secure the top edge, you might try an Xacto hobby knife in the center and two upper corner tabs. Most of the time, they break. The AC panel sits behind that, and will release with the removal of several screws at each end.
You may have to disconnect the inside/outside air flow switch cable under the dash to pull the assembly free.
I don't know if I pulled wrong, but I busted where the ball goes in the socket on my marker lamp. It went back though.
01-01-2008, 02:23 AM
#151
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Redding, California
Posts: 71
whattingh: Yeah, check the wiring to and or R&R the knock sensor. I have an 89 Maxima too. My girlfriend owns a 97 Nissan van with the same SOHC V-6. It was
acting just like what you are describing 'til I pulled the knock sensor and replaced it.
On your '89 SOHC, it should be on the backside of the block, up against the firewall
and above the power steering pump. (Really a pain in the A** to reach). The job
of replacing the one on the 97 van was far worse; it was under the intake manifold
under the windshield overhang! Good luck.
acting just like what you are describing 'til I pulled the knock sensor and replaced it.
On your '89 SOHC, it should be on the backside of the block, up against the firewall
and above the power steering pump. (Really a pain in the A** to reach). The job
of replacing the one on the 97 van was far worse; it was under the intake manifold
under the windshield overhang! Good luck.
01-01-2008, 02:56 AM
#152
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Redding, California
Posts: 71
truckinusa:
On the dask cover panel, you can sometimes use an industrial strength plastic glue;
Weld-On or similar to repair the tabs. There are different formulas for different plastics. And there are about as many kinds of automotive plastics as the kinds of fruit you'll find at the grocery store. PVC, Styrene, ABS, Plexi-- the list goes on and on. The trick is to figure out what kind of plastic you're trying to repair, because coughing up $20 a pop for these professional grade glues is a lot more expensive than buying a new panel at the dealer. The "tabs" near the top actually support a kind of metal clip.
The clip is anchored to the plastic tab, and the tab is what breaks. The clip is sort
of spring loaded, so when the panel is pushed into position the three clips across the top engage several little bosses in the structure of the dash, locking the panel into place. From the front you cannot see these clips while the panel is in position. I have a spare panel off my car and here are the measurements to try and free the clips using a thin blade to disengage them: From the left upper edge, the centerline of clip #1 is about one and one sixteenth inches. Clip#2 is slightly left of center at four and three quarters of an inch from the upper left corner of the panel. Clip #3 is centered at one and five sixteenths from the upper right corner of the panel. To try and disengage the clips, try using two thin-bladed instruments; one to pry the panel out with the other to probe and disengage the clips. It might work best starting at the upper right corner first. The clips in side view are sort of shaped like an "E". The center horizontal part has a loop that wraps around the plastic tab on the back of the panel. The upper horizontal has kind of a "~" shape, with the low spot permitting the capture of a boss in the dash. By inserting your blade at the measured interval listed above at a downward angle of about thirty degrees from horizontal, you should be able to depress this upper portion of the clip and release the upper right corner of the panel. Then repeat for the center clip and finally the upper left corner. Or you could just yank it out, break the tabs and buy a new one at the dealer. If you do that, save the metal clips! You'll need them.
On the dask cover panel, you can sometimes use an industrial strength plastic glue;
Weld-On or similar to repair the tabs. There are different formulas for different plastics. And there are about as many kinds of automotive plastics as the kinds of fruit you'll find at the grocery store. PVC, Styrene, ABS, Plexi-- the list goes on and on. The trick is to figure out what kind of plastic you're trying to repair, because coughing up $20 a pop for these professional grade glues is a lot more expensive than buying a new panel at the dealer. The "tabs" near the top actually support a kind of metal clip.
The clip is anchored to the plastic tab, and the tab is what breaks. The clip is sort
of spring loaded, so when the panel is pushed into position the three clips across the top engage several little bosses in the structure of the dash, locking the panel into place. From the front you cannot see these clips while the panel is in position. I have a spare panel off my car and here are the measurements to try and free the clips using a thin blade to disengage them: From the left upper edge, the centerline of clip #1 is about one and one sixteenth inches. Clip#2 is slightly left of center at four and three quarters of an inch from the upper left corner of the panel. Clip #3 is centered at one and five sixteenths from the upper right corner of the panel. To try and disengage the clips, try using two thin-bladed instruments; one to pry the panel out with the other to probe and disengage the clips. It might work best starting at the upper right corner first. The clips in side view are sort of shaped like an "E". The center horizontal part has a loop that wraps around the plastic tab on the back of the panel. The upper horizontal has kind of a "~" shape, with the low spot permitting the capture of a boss in the dash. By inserting your blade at the measured interval listed above at a downward angle of about thirty degrees from horizontal, you should be able to depress this upper portion of the clip and release the upper right corner of the panel. Then repeat for the center clip and finally the upper left corner. Or you could just yank it out, break the tabs and buy a new one at the dealer. If you do that, save the metal clips! You'll need them.
01-01-2008, 03:32 AM
#153
Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Redding, California
Posts: 71
Sludge Problem:
There was a question about "how to dissolve sludge" and what to use...
I saw a mechanic do this once, he mixed equal parts of kerosene and five weight synthetic oil and ran it though the engine, after completely draining it and replacing the filter. He ran the engine at about 2500 rpm for ten minutes. The engine showed marginal improvement after this solution was drained and new oil and a filter were installed. If you have the time and a place to safely work on the engine, it might be best to pull it, strip it down to the block and heads then disassemble the block, clean it and reassemble it. Or you could pull one cylinder head and check the amount of "lip" you find at the top of the cylinder bore. This is as good a measure of engine wear under duress as you'll find. Poor lubrication means increased wear on the bore by the piston rings. They will leave a small untouched part of the bore at the top end where the original diameter remains. If there is no lip, you may be in luck. At a minimum, I would pull the pistons with the block still in the car and clean out all the piston groves to improve compression. Take care not to damage the soft Aluminum surfaces of the groves.
I saw a mechanic do this once, he mixed equal parts of kerosene and five weight synthetic oil and ran it though the engine, after completely draining it and replacing the filter. He ran the engine at about 2500 rpm for ten minutes. The engine showed marginal improvement after this solution was drained and new oil and a filter were installed. If you have the time and a place to safely work on the engine, it might be best to pull it, strip it down to the block and heads then disassemble the block, clean it and reassemble it. Or you could pull one cylinder head and check the amount of "lip" you find at the top of the cylinder bore. This is as good a measure of engine wear under duress as you'll find. Poor lubrication means increased wear on the bore by the piston rings. They will leave a small untouched part of the bore at the top end where the original diameter remains. If there is no lip, you may be in luck. At a minimum, I would pull the pistons with the block still in the car and clean out all the piston groves to improve compression. Take care not to damage the soft Aluminum surfaces of the groves.
Hello all!
I recently purchased a 94 Maxima GXE at 170k, VG30E engine of course. Bought the car because I also own a 86 300zx with that engine, and know it's highly reliable. The car according to Carfax has only had two owners, and spent most of it's life in Florida.
In any case, the engine had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I had a friend who has tools (some idiot stole mine. GRRR) pop the covers off, where we found a CRAPLOAD of oil sludge everywhere. It looks like someone took hot roofing tar and splashed everything with a good 1/8+" layer of it. The friend says he used to work at a engine rebuilding shop, and this is one of the worst he's seen. He recommends selling the car immediately so I don't end up with a dead car and no money. I assume this was caused by one of two things: lack of sufficient oil changes, or overheating. I mentioned overheating because the car also has a brand new radiator the previous owner must have installed before selling it. Everything else about the car seems great, runs good, shifts fine, etc. Only problem I've had is a rough idle when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warmed up (temp sensor not kicking in cold enrich?) and a code for a bad O2 sensor.
Soooo, what's the popular opinion here? I hate to let the car go, I only paid $1500 for it, and my girlfriend who I bought it for loves it.
I recently purchased a 94 Maxima GXE at 170k, VG30E engine of course. Bought the car because I also own a 86 300zx with that engine, and know it's highly reliable. The car according to Carfax has only had two owners, and spent most of it's life in Florida.
In any case, the engine had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I had a friend who has tools (some idiot stole mine. GRRR) pop the covers off, where we found a CRAPLOAD of oil sludge everywhere. It looks like someone took hot roofing tar and splashed everything with a good 1/8+" layer of it. The friend says he used to work at a engine rebuilding shop, and this is one of the worst he's seen. He recommends selling the car immediately so I don't end up with a dead car and no money. I assume this was caused by one of two things: lack of sufficient oil changes, or overheating. I mentioned overheating because the car also has a brand new radiator the previous owner must have installed before selling it. Everything else about the car seems great, runs good, shifts fine, etc. Only problem I've had is a rough idle when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warmed up (temp sensor not kicking in cold enrich?) and a code for a bad O2 sensor.
Soooo, what's the popular opinion here? I hate to let the car go, I only paid $1500 for it, and my girlfriend who I bought it for loves it.
01-01-2008, 05:28 AM
#154
TO MyGreenMax94:
The face panel in 89 to 94 Maximas is virtually impossible to remove without breaking off the tabs that secure it near the top. There are several screws down near the ash tray and under the overhang. Remove these first of course. On the three tabs that secure the top edge, you might try an Xacto hobby knife in the center and two upper corner tabs. Most of the time, they break. The AC panel sits behind that, and will release with the removal of several screws at each end.
You may have to disconnect the inside/outside air flow switch cable under the dash to pull the assembly free.
The face panel in 89 to 94 Maximas is virtually impossible to remove without breaking off the tabs that secure it near the top. There are several screws down near the ash tray and under the overhang. Remove these first of course. On the three tabs that secure the top edge, you might try an Xacto hobby knife in the center and two upper corner tabs. Most of the time, they break. The AC panel sits behind that, and will release with the removal of several screws at each end.
You may have to disconnect the inside/outside air flow switch cable under the dash to pull the assembly free.
01-01-2008, 06:56 AM
#156
TO MyGreenMax94:
The face panel in 89 to 94 Maximas is virtually impossible to remove without breaking off the tabs that secure it near the top. There are several screws down near the ash tray and under the overhang. Remove these first of course. On the three tabs that secure the top edge, you might try an Xacto hobby knife in the center and two upper corner tabs. Most of the time, they break. The AC panel sits behind that, and will release with the removal of several screws at each end.
You may have to disconnect the inside/outside air flow switch cable under the dash to pull the assembly free.
The face panel in 89 to 94 Maximas is virtually impossible to remove without breaking off the tabs that secure it near the top. There are several screws down near the ash tray and under the overhang. Remove these first of course. On the three tabs that secure the top edge, you might try an Xacto hobby knife in the center and two upper corner tabs. Most of the time, they break. The AC panel sits behind that, and will release with the removal of several screws at each end.
You may have to disconnect the inside/outside air flow switch cable under the dash to pull the assembly free.
patience is a wonderful way to avoid breaking things.
01-01-2008, 07:15 AM
#157
01-01-2008, 07:46 AM
#158
now i need new screws.
01-01-2008, 11:12 AM
#159
Are all third gen trunks interchangable, I know the reflector plates are different, but I have an 89 se and am looking to buy a gxe trunk lid to simplify installing my new spoiler, unless there is a way to fill in all the holes from the factory one, and then screw through the fillings