*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
#1801
Spankin new here need help with 92 VE ignition problem..
Well as the title says I am a newbie, I have been having some trouble with my car for a while now. I have just had the engine replaced after the previous on had a freak oil leak and locked up on me. But, now I am having problems with my ignition system. At first when I had just picked my car up it idled a little rough and did not accelerate so well (couldn't floor it, had no effect really). So, I returned it to the dealer and they temporarily fixed it, everything was great for like 2 wks. Then I was out for a little drive on my lunch and it just started acting up again, so I took it back to the dealer. This time they said it was an ignition coil that was bad and they charged me $140 to replace one coil (I was upset about this b/c later I found one online for $40). But as soon as I cranked the car it was exactly the same so I decided to try and do some work myself because after the engine im a little broke. Well the coil they replaced was on my #3 cylinder which I checked and was fine, but 5 was'nt firing so i switched some of the coil packs around to see if it was the coil but that cylinder still wasn't firing. Then eventually #3 and #5 both stopped firing. And it progressively got worse now the car cranks fine but stalls out immediately. My ECU is now showing a code 21 (2 long 1 short if im right), my hanes manul reads:
Cause: The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running. This repair must be performed by a dealer service department.
FAT CHANCE! I've done some other web searching and found I may have to replace the wiring harness or PTU. Does anyone know anything regarding my situation? I really need this car working asap, I have no idea how to test to see which one is malfunctioning. I am no mechanic anything I know about auto's has been learned in the last few months with this car so PLEASE HELP! Also I am sorry for the long post just tried to include as much info as possible about what has been done, thank you.
Cause: The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running. This repair must be performed by a dealer service department.
FAT CHANCE! I've done some other web searching and found I may have to replace the wiring harness or PTU. Does anyone know anything regarding my situation? I really need this car working asap, I have no idea how to test to see which one is malfunctioning. I am no mechanic anything I know about auto's has been learned in the last few months with this car so PLEASE HELP! Also I am sorry for the long post just tried to include as much info as possible about what has been done, thank you.
#1803
Hello. I own a 93 GXE max and i'm having electrical problems. My cigarette ligter, radio, electronic entry keypad, and clock are all out. The seatbelt only retracts in ACC and the airbag light is on. I removed the lower steering wheel panel, checked the fuses, but found nothing wrong. Perhaps I'm not checking good enough. Any help is appreciated. thanks.
#1804
I drive a '94 gxe also...garage kepted ...no rust that i know of. However i commute daily at freeway speeds 75 plus. And once in a while i will hear something like knock (like a rock) hitting the bottom of the chasis.....now ya got me wondering if this could be a worn bushing somewhere???
85k on the speedo...
85k on the speedo...
#1805
#1806
#1807
Yes i have changed the spark plugs already spankin' new...anyoneknow where i can get instructions on how to remove the rear manifold to check those injectors? Or is it really that complicated, total n00b here who doesn't want to kill his car :S ty
#1808
i thought that code's description would indicate the CAS??? or is that another different code? like, that the ECU is not reading any RPM or reading what position in the firing cycle the cams are at.... thus not attempting to fire injectors or spark or something like that.
#1809
put the new timing belt and tensioner in.
tried to start it before putting everything back on.
and it started right up. put cover, belts, etc back on.
now its running sluggish and doesnt respond quickly to the gas pedal.
it will rev when its in P. but when i put it in D it doesnt want to move or respond at all.
changed out the tps and nothing.
checked all the vaccumm lines and everything seems dandy.
any ideas? im broke so a new engine is outta the question.
my 240 was much easier to work on. lol.
tried to start it before putting everything back on.
and it started right up. put cover, belts, etc back on.
now its running sluggish and doesnt respond quickly to the gas pedal.
it will rev when its in P. but when i put it in D it doesnt want to move or respond at all.
changed out the tps and nothing.
checked all the vaccumm lines and everything seems dandy.
any ideas? im broke so a new engine is outta the question.
my 240 was much easier to work on. lol.
#1810
put the new timing belt and tensioner in.
tried to start it before putting everything back on.
and it started right up. put cover, belts, etc back on.
now its running sluggish and doesnt respond quickly to the gas pedal.
it will rev when its in P. but when i put it in D it doesnt want to move or respond at all.
changed out the tps and nothing.
checked all the vaccumm lines and everything seems dandy.
any ideas? im broke so a new engine is outta the question.
my 240 was much easier to work on. lol.
tried to start it before putting everything back on.
and it started right up. put cover, belts, etc back on.
now its running sluggish and doesnt respond quickly to the gas pedal.
it will rev when its in P. but when i put it in D it doesnt want to move or respond at all.
changed out the tps and nothing.
checked all the vaccumm lines and everything seems dandy.
any ideas? im broke so a new engine is outta the question.
my 240 was much easier to work on. lol.
also, go through, and check to see if any wires were disconnected(or damaged) in the process.
#1811
Also on the VE engine i found a wire that was completely severed that connects to the block near the EGC valve is that for the vacuum or what? Either way i spliced that and no it will crank and idle but only around 300-400 rpm's and Cyl 3&5 still no combustion.
#1812
my tranny has been acting a little weird the past 2 days. the other day it didnt want to shift out of gear like there was no 1 and 2nd gear then that very night and the following day it was ok. so i planned on replacing the tranny filter but cant seem to find the pan or plug for it on this nissan. anyone know the location of this pan?
#1813
my tranny has been acting a little weird the past 2 days. the other day it didnt want to shift out of gear like there was no 1 and 2nd gear then that very night and the following day it was ok. so i planned on replacing the tranny filter but cant seem to find the pan or plug for it on this nissan. anyone know the location of this pan?
it's just drain and fill.
#1814
Popcorn
Alright, got a new battery, car worked fine for two or three days and now, all the electrical system turned off (deck, headlights, backligthing for gauges) but my battery light did not come on or any other light except the airbag. When i give it some gas the engine makes popping sounds, goes about 30 feet and then the car dies completely. Taking it in to the dealer or a shop today, jsut curious what you guys think it is.
Thanks
Thanks
#1815
hello i try to bypass the front speaker bose with only using the 2 small wires which are green and a black one, i can only hear a small amount of sound coming from until i turn then up very loud. i have an aftermarket h/u and i dont want to change out the rear bose cause its has some nice bass and its still working, so the question is why is it so low in sound what am i doing wrong i tried all the combinations too
#1816
hello i try to bypass the front speaker bose with only using the 2 small wires which are green and a black one, i can only hear a small amount of sound coming from until i turn then up very loud. i have an aftermarket h/u and i dont want to change out the rear bose cause its has some nice bass and its still working, so the question is why is it so low in sound what am i doing wrong i tried all the combinations too
when the amps are used they are amplifying what is basically a line-level signal.
Swap out the front bose speakers for some regular speakers, it's the best thing to do with an aftermarket H/U
#1818
#1819
im not too sure of my h/u setup cause i got it done at bestbuy and the previous owner had another h/u in it which broke n i had to get it done, the bestbuy guy said it was a mess and he re organized the wires, i saw its now nice n neat, its my font speakers i have very low sound on it and when i plug it in it make a pop first and then i turn up the volume n i can hear its on. i pluged wires directly to the h/u and same results. i really want all my speakers to work i dont want to feel like i have a deaf right ear lmao thanks alot im a real noob in stero systems
#1821
your pop is because their is probably an aftermarket amp wired into your system somewhere and it lacks a soft turn on feature.
the sound is low because the system is mismatched. Replace all the speakers with aftermarket and bypass all the amps and you will get good sound.
the sound is low because the system is mismatched. Replace all the speakers with aftermarket and bypass all the amps and you will get good sound.
#1822
your pop is because their is probably an aftermarket amp wired into your system somewhere and it lacks a soft turn on feature.
the sound is low because the system is mismatched. Replace all the speakers with aftermarket and bypass all the amps and you will get good sound.
the sound is low because the system is mismatched. Replace all the speakers with aftermarket and bypass all the amps and you will get good sound.
#1823
#1825
Hi everyone. I have an engine problem on my 93 SE 5 speed. My wife drove the Max about 75 miles from the house and in died on her. I went and changed the Air Bypass hose on the intake manifold and it ran a little better. But when I started down the road, it ran smooth, but lacked power. Other symptoms include:
1: wouldn't idle. when I got near home, if I let off of the go pedal, it would go dead.
2: ran great in the upper rpm range (3000 plus) but weak in the lower.
3: No check engine light.
It felt like it bucked and choked and wouldn't go.
I'm going to check the plugs, change the fuel filter, and go through the diagnostic procedures according the the Factory Service Manual.
I'm thinking throttle position sensor, fuel pump, or ecu. PLEASE, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott.
1: wouldn't idle. when I got near home, if I let off of the go pedal, it would go dead.
2: ran great in the upper rpm range (3000 plus) but weak in the lower.
3: No check engine light.
It felt like it bucked and choked and wouldn't go.
I'm going to check the plugs, change the fuel filter, and go through the diagnostic procedures according the the Factory Service Manual.
I'm thinking throttle position sensor, fuel pump, or ecu. PLEASE, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott.
#1826
I've played around with different H/Us with the same speakers and the H/U makes all the difference in the thump.
#1827
#1829
#1830
#1835
Quick question regarding rear 6 x9 speakers on 90 max se
hello,
i recently purchased blaupunkt speakers for the rear and a sony 420ip deck. i decided to pass on replacing the front speakers because im on a budget for this car.
anyways, i bought my stuff from crutchfield and they told me that i might not be able to replace the factory speaker covers for the rear speakers..
i was wondering if there is any way i can do that because i really like the blaupunkt speaker covers and it will really stand out.
any help is appreciated. thanks.
- kobedaman24
i recently purchased blaupunkt speakers for the rear and a sony 420ip deck. i decided to pass on replacing the front speakers because im on a budget for this car.
anyways, i bought my stuff from crutchfield and they told me that i might not be able to replace the factory speaker covers for the rear speakers..
i was wondering if there is any way i can do that because i really like the blaupunkt speaker covers and it will really stand out.
any help is appreciated. thanks.
- kobedaman24
#1836
hello,
i recently purchased blaupunkt speakers for the rear and a sony 420ip deck. i decided to pass on replacing the front speakers because im on a budget for this car.
anyways, i bought my stuff from crutchfield and they told me that i might not be able to replace the factory speaker covers for the rear speakers..
i was wondering if there is any way i can do that because i really like the blaupunkt speaker covers and it will really stand out.
any help is appreciated. thanks.
- kobmedaman24
i recently purchased blaupunkt speakers for the rear and a sony 420ip deck. i decided to pass on replacing the front speakers because im on a budget for this car.
anyways, i bought my stuff from crutchfield and they told me that i might not be able to replace the factory speaker covers for the rear speakers..
i was wondering if there is any way i can do that because i really like the blaupunkt speaker covers and it will really stand out.
any help is appreciated. thanks.
- kobmedaman24
the speaker grilles are attached to the rear deck cover. you could remove them, but I cannot be sure the blaupunkt covers will fit as replacements. you could go to the hardware store and buy some 1/8th plywood, swing by a car audio shop pick up some box carpet, and make a new deck cover to fit in place on the deck, with the speaker covers.
#1837
The Bose Speaker/Amp setup that came in the 3rd gen Max was one of the worst setups I've heard to date for a stock stereo. Even my 88 Camaro with stock speakers and H/U sounds better. I'm with Brian on this one. A Bose Amp bypass is an improvement.
#1838
my meaning was that bypassing the amp to go to the bose speaker is not a good idea. if it is bypassed to aftermarket speakers, the everything is okay.