Hi guys,
Just had a few questions regarding the J30 maxima twin electric radiatior fans. I am planning on installing this setup in my Z32

1- are these puller fans or pusher fans?

2- what temp do the fans turn on at (low speed) and at what temp does the high speed start? I am assuming both fans run at the same time or does low speed refer to one fan and high speed refer to both fans running?

3- I searched and found this extract from a post regarding wiring, just wondering if anyone can confirm this for me and tell me the colours of the wires A,B,C,D?

4- long shot but does anyone know the CFM rating for these fans?


sorry for the newb questions, any help is greatly appreciated

 

What are the pieces that came with it? If it came with a long pipe, your probably gonna have to create a hole to make it fit properly, and to be a TRUE CAI

here is Jeff92se's write up:
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...cai-today.html

since he is the rightful owner of the VE CAI idea


To Jeff and the other OG's:
I swear, I had no idea about the CAI at the time when we thought it up. I was a newbie and didnt know how to use the search. Now that I looked back on those newbie threads I had posted. WOW, glad you guys didnt ban me

 

1. Puller.
the rest I have no clue

 

I live in Oakland, CA and my '91 Nissan Maxima was stolen recently. It has since been returned but without the spare. Other than offering my right arm for a new one from Nissan, is there a resource out there for these funky little spares or are junk yards my only option?

 

the 3rd gen classified section might have some cars being parted out in your area. i suspect that more than one gen has that size spare tho.

 

Just hit up a junk yard for a spare..

 

that's what I did, $10, looked brand new (still has the nipples on the tread)

 

Alright, I have a ninety-three Maxi and ive been trying to fix this problem for a little while now. My front-right signal light is not coming on. when I signal, the light on the dash flickers faster than it should. I do hear ticking so Im guessing theres something working and the rear-right signal light does come on. but my signal lights on the left side (both front and rear) work fine. What is the problem?


Also my power locks aren't working. I checked the manual about the clicking noise that shows that the power locks are receiving an electrical signal but the power locks arent working. The locks wont lock or unlock when I use the power locks. (its a pain to reach over all the time to unlock a door especially when I got off a car with working power locks ~lazy much~)

could anyone help or tell me where or what to look for?

 

i can think of 3 companies that made CAI's specifically for our cars in addition to the ones that can be found on ebay.

 

remove the stock air box. you may have to modify the tube that feeds the airbox, or take it out. put the velocity stack in the filter and put the hose clamp around it. you may want to clean out your MAF before the next step. attach the back of the stillen intake to the MAF with the bolts. you can attach the bracket to one of the holes that held the stock air box. i have the JWT one so it may be slightly different.

 

are you sure your bulb works?

check your door lock timer.

 

on some cars, when a signal bulb goes out the light on that side flashes faster than normal to indicate a bulb is out.
turn on your hazards and walk around the car to see which bulb is out.
Replace the bulb and you are good to go.

 

thanks. yeah i figured they should be puller fans but wasn't 100% sure.
anyone else know what temps the fans on at? do they turn on when the engine is cold or only when it reaches a certain temp?
I did some searching and i found a few references to 212F which i'm guessing is the high speed fan? i am thinking low speed would come on below the thermostat opening temp so around 60C?

 

the fans will turn on at whatever temp the ECU tells them to.
unless you are using all the electronics from the 3rd gen it's going to rely on the ECU you are using unless you wire it up differently.
on my last "jury" rigged fan setup we had it kicking on around 200f, because no one had the adjustable switch on the shelf.

 

I have a 1994 GXE with 174xxx miles. The CEL came on last week. The car idles poorly and runs rough now. Following the stickies, I pulled a 51 code off the ECU. Could not find that code on the autozone web site.

Did I mess up getting the trouble code or can someone tell me if it is a valid code?

Thanks.

 

http://pages.cthome.net/bbachinsky/nissan_ecm_codes.htm

on the vin plate what is your HLJ30_AE_? is it HLJ30_AEV? If it's V, you have cali-spec, which is where a 51 would come into play.

 

thanks a lot my signal lights work now and I jus need to fix the power locks.

 

Mine is HLJ30DAEUB96.

Thanks

 

then according to the FSM you are a non-california spec, and according to that website, 51 is for california only. nonetheless, perhaps it's still indicating whatever a 51 means. Does the car run fine despite the code?

 

Runs rough, rough idle. Started it up, had a rough idle, 30 seconds later CEL came on. Feels like it might die at idle, but hasn't yet.

51 on a cali only is "fuel injector circuit open". Sounds like maybe injector or wiring problem?

 

sounds like one or the other. do you know how to test the resistance of the injectors?

 

No, but I'm willing to learn.

 

i'm most probably going to use some relays and thermatic switches to trigger them at set temperatures. 200F is quite high, I am leaning more towards triggering the low speed at 60C and high speed at around 95-100C

 

Assuming you replaced the bulb, Disconnect the light and take a volt meter to the connector behind the light on the cars harness and turn on the signals. if you are recieving voltage the wiring is ok, if not check the manual for the grounds and look to see if the connector is broken in anyway. next switch the volt meter to Ohms and check the connector to the light. this will tell you if there is an open loop, check the wires and the socket for anything odd or broken.

check the manual for all gound connects associated with the power locks. i would start with them.

 

Hi everyone. I have an engine problem on my 93 SE 5 speed. My wife drove the Max about 75 miles from the house and in died on her. I went and changed the Air Bypass hose on the intake manifold and it ran a little better. But when I started down the road, it ran smooth, but lacked power. Other symptoms include:

1: wouldn't idle. when I got near home, if I let off of the go pedal, it would go dead.

2: ran great in the upper rpm range (3000 plus) but weak in the lower.

3: No check engine light.

It felt like it bucked and choked and wouldn't go.

I'm going to check the plugs, change the fuel filter, and go through the diagnostic procedures according the the Factory Service Manual.

I'm thinking throttle position sensor, fuel pump, or ecu. PLEASE, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Scott.

 

Alright here comes yet ANOTHER question I'm sure has been answered a multitude of times...

I have a 1992 GXE (just hit 200K a'thank you lol) and I just bought a parts car (1993 GXE).

My question is this...did they have different springs from 1992 to 1993 in the GXE models? I know the SE's have different springs but I was wondering about the GXEs.

The reason I ask is that when I jack my '92 up to do an oil change or what ever the rear squats like a sorority girl pissing in her front yard. However when I jacked up the '93's front to tear **** off...no squatting at all!!

Now I recently (about 10 months ago) had my shocks in the rear replaced...I was away at school and had a mechanic do it (never again btw) but he never said anything about my springs being bad...could this just be the problem?? Or is there a difference??

Thanks alot guys!!

 

Sounds like you might have a bad mass air flow sensor, try unplugging the wire harness going to the sensor(located on the intake right before the throttle body), if the car will idle with it unplugged, then replace the maf.

 

does anyone have or had any problems with the original stock fog lights with 100 watt bulbs inside? i know some of you people did put something greater then 55w but i wanna know if there are any melting or other things like that thank you

 

alright. I was pretty much done with my maxi, cept for a bent control arm but now I have a bigger problem with my transmission. this isnt the first time ive had this problem. My 93 GXE maxima (auto) wont go pass 2nd gear. I was at a stop light earlier today and started goin and next thing I kno I hear a big thump and my engine jus starts revving. after that I cant go faster than 35 mph. It has happened before and I got it all fixed up by some professional transmission place. I still got a warranty so they're gonna fix it up agian. but im afraid it'll happen again!

Im now debating on sellin my maxi after I get it fixed but I really dont want to because of all the work ive been doin on it. tell ya the truth it looks great and ran great. Jus.... scared of the transmission

Im jus wondering if it'll happen again since I need a car to go off to college. and I really dont want to risk my car jumping off the gear when im far from home.

any advice or anything to say to keep my tranny from messing up??

It wont go pass 2nd gear!!!

 

the only way to fix a problem that major is to get that shop to repair it under warranty.... transmissions don't just THUMP and keep on working... they don't take a lickin' and keep on tickin' like Timex watch, sadly.

i had a total tranny failure in february. I was coming up this ramp [link] and just as the ramp started to straighten out and flow into traffic, i picked up the throttle to get up to speed, it went straight to redline and that was that. Done. So you're gonna need to get yours fixed before that happens. At least yours gave you warning... mine gave me NONE.

 

Thanks, I'll try that. This morning as a matter of fact.

 

Just tried it. That wasn't it Thanks for your help!!! It did eliminate that possibility

 

Hey guys whats up, Im deciding to upgrade the suspension on my 3rd gen, but I dont know which way to go, and i was wondering what you guys think....should i go with coilovers (either d2 or ksport) or a combination of lowering springs with tokicos?

 

id reccomend either going with eibach springs and tokico blues or a setup from KONI

 

thanks

 

94 Maxima

Hey all, got another question. I just did a whole bunch of work on the front of my engine which included replacing my water pump and thermostat. When I drove the car to my parent's place, the opening on the radiator that that the upper thermostat hose fits onto broke for some reason, all my coolant spilled out, etc. I'm not so concerned with that--I was able to refill it with coolant. What I'm wondering is what kind of pressure would cause that opening to break? It cracked about 3/4 of an inch off of the opening. Would it have broken because of high pressure in the system due to improper installation of the water pump/thermostat? Or maybe I hit it with something on accident, or tightened the house too strongly, or something. Do I have to worry about my water pump/thermostat or is there something else I can check as well?

Also, is there any way to simply replace the top of the radiator without replacing the whole radiator? I'd hate to spend $100 because the dang opening is broken. Thanks for any help!

 

I think it's just bad luck this time. I got a new rad from IdiotZone for $50, and even if it is possible or cheaper to fix just the top, I'd rather leave radiator assembly to a radiator assembly factory.

 

Maybe the Idle Air Control Value needs cleaning. have a look on the forum on how to clean it if you don't know how.

 

somewhere in your fuel, injectors probably.

 

Agh; Autozone quoted me $150 for a new radiator for my 94 Max. How did you get $50? Blech. Rockauato is $85, and radiator.com is $75 with a promo code. Then there's shipping. I tell you what, if it's not one thing it's another. Thanks for your help!