did you put in 9004 or 9007 bulbs?

 

9007

 

you wired it wrong

 

are you still running normal 9004s? Or did you convert to 9007s? Also what happens when you flash the highs with the headlights off?

edit: too slow. but yea that sounds like what happened. the highbeam and ground position are reversed between the 9004 and 9007

what is the history of your headlights? did you just take 9004s out and put 9007s in? Or did you already have 9007s before?

 

ok im sure this is probably asked somewhere else, but i must have missed it.

I have a 91 is it possable to get a 6MT? or only 5MT for this gen?

 

only 5spd. if you want a 6spd you'll have to be pretty good at fabrication, in order to make an adapter of some sort to get the VQ's 6spd to fit onto the VG/VE blocks, THEN you'll have to make custom tranny mounts, rig up a cable-shifter (85-01 use a rod shifter, 5spd), and figure out what axles and stuff to use. It can be done... with enough money. Just hasn't been done yet.

You can also do even more work and put in a whole VQ motor (aluminum, rather than the iron VG/VE), then the tranny will bolt onto it, but getting the motor in, and working is another can of worms entirely...

(if you don't know.. VG30E is the SOHC engine, 89-91 all, 92-94 GXE. VE30DE is the DOHC motor, 92-94 SE. VQ30DE is the 1995-1999 motor, VQ30DEK is the 00-01 motor and the VQ35DE is 2002-present. Any VQ will bolt up to the 6spd but it was only offered with the VQ35DE from 2002-2006)

 

I love the punishment and am disturbed enough to try this! If i do i will publish the results in the future.

 

I live just south of Asheville NC. Yep - the hub was toast - they guys at the machine shop said I probably drove 1k too many miles on it. Well, I only started hearing it recently, certainly not 1k miles worth!

Anyway - I got it back on the road this weekend, with a hub from a yard up in NY, and both new bearings, ball joints and tie rod ends. Drives like a new car now. thanks to everyone who replied.

 

just took out the stock 9004s and put 9007s in. I still cant really see much better, but its an upgrade...

 

ah, see, you are supposed to rewire the headlight harness to make the 9007's work.
http://forums.maxima.org/6077919-post321.html
take a look at this post, it shows that the pinout is different for each type of bulb.

 

Or he could read the instructions in this thread--> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...rade-pics.html

 

I have a 92 Nissan Maxima that my Uncle gave me because he hates me for some reason. The hood is faded, dents on every panel, YES, every panel, the drive side window is help up with tape, but the rest of the three windows work fine when I try to use them. It doesnt make a noise, could it be the motor only, or both the motor and regulator? Second, the speedo doesnt work, I dont really care about the miles, but the speed I do because I live in an area where there is a lot of cops. I dont know if it is the sensor, or a cable.

 

it's a sensor. If cruise control does work, then the problem is the cluster. If cruise control does NOT work, then it's more likely to be the sensor (unless something else is wrong with the cruise control haha). Is this a/t or m/t? If it's a/t, does the tranny shift properly or does it seem like it's stuck in one gear all the time?

 

I tried to use the CC, but I'm not sure if it works because I cant see the speed. The CC light comes on, if that matters. Its A/T, its shifts normal, rpms are usually around 2-3K, then it shifts. The senor is located in the engine bay, correct? Can you post a picture of where exactly in the engine

 

here it is :
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u..._1246_edit.jpg
found here: http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...or-repair.html

 

well, if you can get on the highway, or an area that has a constant speed, if the car doesnt slow down with cc on, the speed sensor is fine.

as to the window, if its being held up by tape () then the regulator is definitely shot.
if you dont hear any noises, either, the motor may be dead as well (or it was unhooked, maybe?)

 

I'll try that next Tuesday when coming back from school. If the CC works, what is wrong then?

All the other windows work, but I cant use the main switch thing on the driver side to get them down, the driver window one is very loose, it never makes a peep. How much would both motor and regulator cost?

Yeah, I know the tape thing is funny, I tried to zip tie it, but I dont know where to put the zip ties....

 

like i said in my first post up there, if CC works, then the cluster is the problem. cuz the ECU (engine control unit) and TCU (transmission control unit) and cruise control controller know how fast the car is, but the speedo just isn't showing it. So the odometer doesn't turn over either? Oh and just so you know, ANY speedometer (89-94 SE or GXE) will work properly for you. Is yours SE (white speedo, black letters) or GXE (black speedo, white letters)?

 

Black with white letters. So if the CC works, something is unplugged or something?? Odometer doesnt turn over.

 

I have all 4 good window regulators for sale if you want them..

Maxima part out thread--> http://forums.maxima.org/1st-3rd-gen...-part-out.html

 

i think it's just coincidence that the odometer doesn't work either. maybe a cracked gear or something. i had that on my first one, speedo broke, then odometer broke a month later.

but you can use any cluster you want, just keep in mind that the white 145mph unit will show a higher redline on the tachometer (different motor on the 92-94SE models from what you and me have). Post back when you have a new cluster if you need any more info about putting it in. I'd suggest getting one from a junkyard, preferrably low miles.

 

wow. well nobody told me to do that. lmao and its funny cuz now my clock works too. It hasnt worked since ive got this car... (november 29th)

 

Who "told" you to just plug them in??

 

Well i asked for a recommended ligth bulb to use, i hear 9007 is good. So i get it, and plug it in. They never told me that there were steps in order to properly use the bulb.

 

Getting a low Idle at start up on really cold days. is this an issue with im IACV or is it just because it is 20 degrees out side?

normaly idles at 1500 for a few minutes then drops to 900 but it been getting up to 1100 or 1000 then dropping to 900.

 

lol. my idle (after the initial 1500 for a few seconds) drops to 600-750, so an idle of 1000-1100 should be fine. unless its causing problems driving.

 

hi my name is alex and im about to buy an 89 maxima and would like to five speed and turbo swap? any help?

 

buy it first, make sure it runs correctly.
the trans swap is pretty cut-and-dry, and there are a couple of auto to manual swap threads, which should have enough info to get you started.

no one has made a "how to install a turbo install" thread afaik, but there are a few on here who have done it. most common (or easiest) is using z31 turbo exhaust manifolds, while others have gone all out and made custom headers to get the job done.

 

I just bought my first 3rd Gen a few days ago, a 1989 SE. I have a few questions. First, my clutch engages very high. Is there a way to adjust engagement point? I don't think the clutch is bad (guy supposedly just put in a new one). Also, I have to rev relatively high when starting from first gear. Any simple fixes for that?

While driving I can hear a tin-like rattle coming from the engine area.

As I gain speed, the car starts vibrating, getting worse at higher speeds. Could this be bad wheel bearings?

 

do you like the current height of the pedal? If you do, then adjust the switch at the bottom of the clutch pedal (the one that is depressed to allow you to start the car) so that you can't push the pedal so far down in the first place. that will cause the dead zone at the bottom of the pedal to shrink, while still catching as close to the top as it does already. So the pedal's movement will almost entirely be controlling clutch engagement.

 

the rattle can be a number of things unfortunately. hard to narrow it down but what jumps to mine for my experience of a tin rattle sound is a loose exhaust heat shield. when the car is cold crawl underneath and grap the exhaust and give a good shake. that will help rule it out.

now for the vibrating i would think you have a unbalanced wheel and possible a bad alignment. wheel bearings will make ticking or whining sound. best way to diagnose a wheel bearing is to get someone to walk along side the car by each wheel and listen for any sound such as i mentioned.

if you can ask the gentleman you got the car from when he last changed the timing belt and water pump.

congrats on getting a 3rd gen i hope this is helpful info

 

hey org.
Since I crashed my 96 Grand Am in November of last year, I've been the proud owner of a Dark blue 93 Maxima, which I couldn't be happier about.
Anyways, last Thursday my idler pulley basically exploded and threw out all the bearings, while a friend was borrowing my car. My team of untrained Maxima mechanics and myself replaced it and the timing belt and have restored it to it's former glory.
Since I wasn't driving at the time it happened, does anyone know what could have caused this to happen, other than natural wear and tear?

 

here is something that may get you started pertaining to Tranny swap.

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...peed-swap.html

There is a wealth of detailed info on here for about anything.Just got to utilize the search function.Its your friend.

 

Yeah, the pulley bearings are starting to fail more frequently these days..Just be sure the belt is not too tight.

 

things continue to slowly get worst i think, hopefully its somehing minor. in any case my tranny is now slipping when i floor it.. it will redline at 6k for a few secs then will try to shift but only drops to 5.5k rpm .... only happens when i floor it , it seems in 1-2nd gear... i always drive w/ OD on and tranny mode 'power'
only recent thing done was some seafoam trans tune was added to help a minor slip but this seems alot worst now, did not drain/fill after the additive but had a tranny flush 10k miles ago

any ideas wat this could be?

i also did a a self diagnostic and no codes came back, 10 quick flashes.

 

it could just be a worn-out tranny. tranny FLUSH can sometimes make the gunk that was 'holding things together' go away, at which point the tranny will start to slip and fail a few thousand miles later. if the tranny was poorly maintained, a drain/fill will usually keep it alive longer than an actual flush will. If it's slipping at WOT, then it seems that maybe your tranny just can't take the beating anymore.

 

Sorry to inform you, but you most likely have a worn out transmission. you can have it rebuilt, or buy a re manufactured transmission. you might get lucky and find a good used trans, but not likely.

 

if all goes right we might have one available from Sam that has 60k on it, with a full fluid exchange every 3rd engine-oil change. Doesn't get much better-maintained than that.

MaxZap where do you live?

 

Wait...I might want it

 

money's money. and it talks.