The stock exhaust system is 2.25...

 

so if the cherry is 2.25" i shouldnt need a adapter right?

 

correct, if the exhaust shop you are taking it to is properly equipped, they should have a pipe flaring machine, so it really wouldn't matter if it needed an adapter anyway..

 

yeah, theyre properly equipped and they do a good job for cheap. when i bought my max i needed new struts and a few other things to pass inspection and they did it for a good price. when i wrecked my max's brakes (hit a fresh asphalt speed bump covering temporary piping last summer and scraped, my brakes made a crazy squeal always) they fixed them good

 

i have a question about the rpms of the vg. would it be safe if i bumped up the rev limiter on the motor at all? i aske my friend and he said that it might not be a good idea but he wasnt sure either.

 

Go ahead, bump away.. but do you even know what has to take place for you to "bump" the rev limiter??

 

ok, so i found this 4th gen i plan on taking the leather interior from and swapping into my 92 max, now there is also a full working engine and this JY is dirt cheap, they charge what they would make in weight as there a scrap metal company, i mean im paying 75 bux for all the seats and there MINT, now i believe the injectors are the same for VQ as for the VE, am i right? i figured i might as well take those as well for a bit extra cash, no problem with having a spare set of injectors right..

thanks

 

im thinking of the lazy way for now haha, with the apexi rsm. what would be a good level to set it at? i dont wanna set it too high

 

Yup, the injectors(not the injector rails) are the same...

Just a fyi, the 4th gen seats are not a direct swap, you will have to modify the seats rails to fit the 3rd gen body..

 

uh, as i have said on the prelude forums, "I am not a Honda guy," so I don't know what that is. I had to google it.
as far as i can tell, that is only a monitor tool. even if you can modify some code on some computers, I sincerely doubt our computers would even remotely be able to be modified by that thing.
you do realize there is a reason JWT charges so much to flash an ecu, right? more than one of those things cost, by far.

 

yea im no honda guy either, i just wanted to see how it would work. im throwing it in too, so i can correct the readings cause of the different size wheels.

if it doesent work, oh well ill look for a ecu upgrade or something


oh and on the website it gives you the pic of the ecu to the vg motor so it should be able to wire up. if it goes bad, ill just take it off. not bad for 5 bucks from a friend

 

well, considering the engine makes less HP at 6000 than it does at 5000......... i don't know why you want to bump it past the stock 6250 anyways.

when you say "goes bad"... you realize that "going bad" would mean over-revving the capabilities of the stock valve springs, floating your valves, and destroying your engine, all while going slower than you would if you shifted at 5900 every time (except maybe 1->2... so you can shift-in a bit higher in 2nd, you can hold it until 6100ish)

 

He want's to hear the mAd! ScReAmInG! SoUnd of rods flying out the oil pan..

 

damn i sooo forgot about that one, idk what i was thinking. well it could maybe come in handy later if i think of doing some engine work. thanks alot guys, man i feel like a dumba** for not thinking about it though

 

no sense modding ahead of your mods... if you know what i mean. Unless you are gonna go ahead and upgrade the valve springs now, don't raise the rev limit. Yea there are ways to get it to make power up to 6500rpm or higher.. mainly forced induction.. but if you have a raised rev limit "just in case i ever do make power up there" at some point, you're gonna accidentally overrev it (missed shift, in a hurry and don't shift soon enough, etc), and then your engine is still gonna be toast, even if it wasn't on purpose.

And if you have an automatic tranny.. then you're OK because the TCU won't let you rev past 5800 anyhow , well, unless you found a way to reprogram/replace it, like Suprastick or something.

 

would it be hard to mod the seat rails? if not, i know what my summer project is. or were there even 3rd gen leather seats (noob question). if there were i can just grab some from a parts car

 

I don't know the exact details on how it's done, there is a thread buried somewhere in the forum with some instructions, but i don't exactly remember how in depth the member went into it..

Lol, yes there are many 3rd gens with leather seats.. I just sold a nice black set a few weeks ago..

 

i had a feeling there were 3rd gens with leather seats. a cloth to leather seat swap wont need any rail mods, right? i kinda want leather seats now, when i first bought the max i didnt want leather but now i do

 

yea i know what you mean, i just have my *act before i think* moments. i would like to boost it, but i would also go all motor with a vq swap.

i have the 5 speed btw

 

no mods needed, but i have heard that some people that go leather end up wishing they had their cloth back.

 

shouldnt need any modifications (unless you have power seats, and the donors dont)
I have mixed feelings about my leather. the stiching has come undone in a few spots, its SOOO hot and sticky on hot days....
yeah, I would keep them, if I can fix em.

 

yeah, the stickiness is horrible, nothing is worse than being in a car with leather seats on a cookin day for more than half a hour, and when you move your arm you can hear the skin peel from the leather

 

Sup guys... yep its me back again I just spent about $600 getting new parts and getting the installed... the only other problem that im having is the same sound from when I push the gas hard to get up and go when in a rush but its this sound that come from where Im not sure... but im guessing it the Trans you hear this grinding sound and u can feel it a little under ur feet...also I think its about time to get a new fuel injector(s) when the car is running it has a real bad vibration to it and when im at lights and sitting there its shakes if i pop the hood and pull on that middle injector it doesnt shake...whats the deal with that?

1. Trans prob?
2. Injector prob?

also...does anybody know where i can buy a trunk like this? or i cant and if i was to fiberglass it how hard would it be?

 

Hi, I'm a newbie.

My 1990 maxima SE's struts in the rear are very stiff again. Car lived in FL for 10 years (cooking in the garage every summer). I've replaced alot of rubber.

And, I've had the rear struts done twice (just stock). At Midas. Is there a problem with these? I can't seem to find an answer.

OR is it the monkeys at Midas? And their crappy parts?

 

stiff? typically bad shocks/struts go soft, not hard.
if they are bad, its probably because midas uses cheap parts, yes.
my recommendation: Tokicos, or kyb. you can buy the inserts online (such as http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...ff99106f255ecb), then, see if they will install them for you.

 

how far apart were they done?

 

Does anyone know if the vg30de heads will fit on the vg30e block. I know that the bore is the same, but im not sure if the bolt pattern is the same or about the oil galleys and coolant paths will all match up. Any help would be great.

 

no, not even close. two completely different blocks.

 

even if they would, the heads are too large to fit and still close the hood... firewall clearance might be an issue too, and you'd need totally custom exhaust... IF they would fit... which as Ben said, i don't think they do.

 

thats where tint and air conditioning help, i already have leather seats in my 92 max but i want the 4th gen heated leather seats and there more comfy for me but im a bigger guy so im sure its diff for others, lots of people say the 3rd gen seats are better, as for the mods, i know the front bolts match up for the seats and the back rails need some modding like greeny said, it shouldnt be to hard at all, i may be wrong but why not swap the rails with the seats out of the 4th gen? anyone have any thoughts on this? i found some old threads but they all modded them and all the pics were long gone, also i originally got the idea from this guy with a 3rd gen with heated leather seats from a 4th gen on car domain, looked very nice and im in manitoba canada, we get -40's for atleast a month here off and on in the winter, so i gots to have heated seats..

 

Ok guys so i am dropped currently on tokico blues and B&G springs and im not really liking the ride at all, to bouncy for me and also i drive in the winter so the tokico's are hard, now i need to fix this, my options are of course switching out my tokico's for koni's or my B&G's for eibach's, which route should i take, id like to keep the drop but if it will help going to eibachs which im sure it will because its less straining on the tokico's than i will, are the koni's adjustable? cus i would like the idea of softening the ride up in the winter and what not, let me know what you all think, i know i spoke with greeny before because he had the same setup but i cant stand it anymore, i gotta change out something to fix this ****

 

from what I hear, simply switching to eibachs will make a world of difference.
shouldn't need to change strut, as well.

 

well im hoping its either one or the other, i dont want to switch out both, if i can just switch to the eibachs that would be nice, save me the money from switching to koni's but will the eibachs fix this bouncy unpredictable crap handling? i mean when i take turns its great unless its ****ty road, granted the roads are really bad here, just normal driving tho sucks the most

 

should; eibachs are a progressive spring, while the B&Gs are a (I believe) linear spring. they will be less "bouncy" and more sporty.

 

ya im hoping to fix this by swapping out one or the other, the car bounces all over the road, makes me regret this mod but when i take corners i know why i did it, i just need to get rid of all the bouncing, you think the eibachs will do this?

 

sorry about the double post, my work laptop is crap, well they say the B&G's are progressive as well and than i heard just the rears are and the fronts are linear which i can now believe as the front bounces around

 

It's the springs, not the struts, just replace the springs..

No, they are not..

 

whats the differences between the two?

 

pretty much the same differences between a chevy and ford small block V8s
bolt patterns would not match. lubrication/coolant passages won't match, etc., etc.

 

Is there a certain length or size resonator that i need to look at for my VE 93 maxima? Thinking of getting magnaflow.

Here - http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/u...sp?shape=Round