Battery light comes on - Alternator?

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08-18-2010, 12:44 AM

#41

Hectic

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gerg

Wow, def. seems like Friday the 13th for a few of us. My problem follows suite with several posts here. Same brake/charge syst. lights, My charge while running has not dropped below 12v. Even drove 30 mi. (no lights or accessories) and after a full charge (12.9-13V) still maintained 12.2v. BUT NOW...

After swapping to my BMW battery (620c.c Amps, so a bit less that my 770 amp Maxima. Battery), the idle is DANGEROUSLY LOW (like 300rpm). I put the orig. battery back and now it is the same horrible idle. This is on a full 13v charge. AND... my check engine light now blinks 1 long, 2 short, 3 short, 4 short, 5 short, then repeats. This is the FIRST time in 230K miles I've ever had a check engine light. Any insight? Going to find that 'all wired up' post now...

12v is low, but a fully charged battery should be capable of keeping the engine running well for awhile. I suspect you have other issues after swapping batteries. I'd pull codes if you haven't disconnected the battery since the CEL was flickering (since they would be cleared), then tend to the alternator which is obviously not doing its job. If problems persist, look at what the ECU told you.

08-27-2010, 06:06 AM

#42

gerg

Junior Member

Join Date: Nov 2008

Posts: 84

Sorry Guys,

I forgot to post my findings. Problem solved (now just one stuck injector). But FYI, The alternator was bad. The super low idle after battery swap had nothing to do with swap, but happened because while running codes, I apparently left the **** turned to diagnostic mode. After some reading her on the forum, apparently this can reduce your idle. Once I turned the screw back to the left, I started the car... idle was back up, check engine light off.

Funny though, through all of this (including current inj. #3 woes), I pull a good clean 'code 55' ??