Whats your max weigh?
#81
Originally Posted by Pearl93VE
VG:
Timing Belt + Water Pump every 70k miles = $700
VE:
VTC rebuild/ tensioners every 150k miles = $900
for one the vtc usually start to tick well before 150k ussually around 100k
you can get the belt and pump for the vg for under $50 at a parts store and right around 120 for oem and its so much easier replace those than rebiulding/replacing the vtcs not to mention the vtc can start ticking again after a rebiuld in my opinion there not worth the 10hp they give but i have nothing against a timing chain its just the vtcs that are frustrating
VG:
Timing Belt + Water Pump every 70k miles = $700
VE:
VTC rebuild/ tensioners every 150k miles = $900
for one the vtc usually start to tick well before 150k ussually around 100k
you can get the belt and pump for the vg for under $50 at a parts store and right around 120 for oem and its so much easier replace those than rebiulding/replacing the vtcs not to mention the vtc can start ticking again after a rebiuld in my opinion there not worth the 10hp they give but i have nothing against a timing chain its just the vtcs that are frustrating
#82
i dont mind a ticking hear and there. as long as its not knocking.
Originally Posted by Pearl93VE
VG:
Timing Belt + Water Pump every 70k miles = $700
VE:
VTC rebuild/ tensioners every 150k miles = $900
for one the vtc usually start to tick well before 150k ussually around 100k
you can get the belt and pump for the vg for under $50 at a parts store and right around 120 for oem and its so much easier replace those than rebiulding/replacing the vtcs not to mention the vtc can start ticking again after a rebiuld in my opinion there not worth the 10hp they give but i have nothing against a timing chain its just the vtcs that are frustrating
VG:
Timing Belt + Water Pump every 70k miles = $700
VE:
VTC rebuild/ tensioners every 150k miles = $900
for one the vtc usually start to tick well before 150k ussually around 100k
you can get the belt and pump for the vg for under $50 at a parts store and right around 120 for oem and its so much easier replace those than rebiulding/replacing the vtcs not to mention the vtc can start ticking again after a rebiuld in my opinion there not worth the 10hp they give but i have nothing against a timing chain its just the vtcs that are frustrating
#83
I dont know dude, I asked around at least 5-6 shops prior to doing my t-belt and the highest I got was $600... I just decided to go to the "family mechanic" of ours.
Labor rate must be ridiculous where you guys live... if it were dealer then I'd understand but just a regular mom and pop shop charging $700...
Who knows, I guess I did get a deal. My gfs entire job including all the stuff I listed for my car costed around $130 except hers included cam and crank seals as well, got that price through my old job which had a VIP account with Advance. Her father and I tackled the job this past fall in my garage.
130 bucks....DIY
Do it yourself VTC?...lets see how much that costs
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#84
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-248407.html
= $32.36 X 2 + your time to remove/rebuild/reinstall..
= $32.36 X 2 + your time to remove/rebuild/reinstall..
![arrow](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/arrow.gif)
#85
My cousin just got the GXE done. T-belt, Water Pump, Gaskets, antifreeze, main seal for $800 at the dealer, 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty. All the mom and pops stuff wanted near or just lower with no warranty.
The lowest I got quoted for replacing my cv axles was $500 around here. My VE JUST started clacking (pretty quietly) and I'm at 150,xxx miles.
The lowest I got quoted for replacing my cv axles was $500 around here. My VE JUST started clacking (pretty quietly) and I'm at 150,xxx miles.
#86
#87
No, I did not ground, but I plan on getting them rebuilt, my engine still pulls hard and the car is in pretty damn good condition, I'll just buy rebuilt assemblies hopefully through classifieds and try to get a dealer to install without warranty.
Right now I am using a V8 Toyota Filter, but since I've started using yota filters instead of my napa gold I've been acquiring more clack, could just be time, could be the filters... don't know.
My next choice is Mobil 1.
Right now I am using a V8 Toyota Filter, but since I've started using yota filters instead of my napa gold I've been acquiring more clack, could just be time, could be the filters... don't know.
My next choice is Mobil 1.
#88
No, I did not ground, but I plan on getting them rebuilt, my engine still pulls hard and the car is in pretty damn good condition, I'll just buy rebuilt assemblies hopefully through classifieds and try to get a dealer to install without warranty.
Right now I am using a V8 Toyota Filter, but since I've started using yota filters instead of my napa gold I've been acquiring more clack, could just be time, could be the filters... don't know.
My next choice is Mobil 1.
Right now I am using a V8 Toyota Filter, but since I've started using yota filters instead of my napa gold I've been acquiring more clack, could just be time, could be the filters... don't know.
My next choice is Mobil 1.
+1 definitely use the mobil1 filter..
#89
I thought about putting a shutoff switch where the A/T power/comfort switch is once I have a 5-spd which should be a few weeks. Any real noticeable power decrease? I'm thinking once I have a VIM I won't miss them as much... but they really do only rarely clack, maybe 2 minutes after startup, then she purrs.
#90
I thought about putting a shutoff switch where the A/T power/comfort switch is once I have a 5-spd which should be a few weeks. Any real noticeable power decrease? I'm thinking once I have a VIM I won't miss them as much... but they really do only rarely clack, maybe 2 minutes after startup, then she purrs.
The clack is what destroys the end cap on the vtc assembly if not remedied by grounding or replacement of the weakened springs. Ground them until you replace.
#91
Right after I bought my car I had the TB replaced for $365. I have since replaced it again when I did my water pump as preventative maintenance (also did tensioner and cam seals. I don't think all of those parts even added up to $100.
#92
i was using the yota v8 filter without any problem, the second i threw the mobil 1 on, it ticked the whole time and clacked close to oil change time. had the v8 filter back on and all was good again.
No, I did not ground, but I plan on getting them rebuilt, my engine still pulls hard and the car is in pretty damn good condition, I'll just buy rebuilt assemblies hopefully through classifieds and try to get a dealer to install without warranty.
Right now I am using a V8 Toyota Filter, but since I've started using yota filters instead of my napa gold I've been acquiring more clack, could just be time, could be the filters... don't know.
My next choice is Mobil 1.
Right now I am using a V8 Toyota Filter, but since I've started using yota filters instead of my napa gold I've been acquiring more clack, could just be time, could be the filters... don't know.
My next choice is Mobil 1.
#93
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-248407.html
= $32.36 X 2 + your time to remove/rebuild/reinstall..
![arrow](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/arrow.gif)
= $32.36 X 2 + your time to remove/rebuild/reinstall..
![arrow](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/arrow.gif)
Wow..so cheap! If the VTC repair only costs $32.36 X 2, why do so many damn people complain about it and not just get it overwith? Avoid VGs cuz of slowness and gay tbelts but also avoid doing someting that costs less than a damn alternator?
#94
Having done it twice myself going only by the guides written by other org members, I will say that it can be frustrating... especially the rear one.
If I had to do it again, I would probably undo the engine mounts, remove the pass-side axle, and lift up the VTC side of the engine a bit in order to have better access to the area, then bring it down to get easy access to the lower chain tensioner.
#95
Well that certainly brings up the price a little more than expected. Oh well, regardless of what engine you have, just expect to spend money on maintenance. I'll just leave it at that.
#96
It can be done way cheaper if you cut some corners: skip oil until the next normal oil change, skip tensioners until they wear down a lot more, top off coolant lost from removing the top radiator hose instead of flushing, use RTV instead of new gaskets at the plenum and valve covers.
Everyone knows that cutting corners usually isnt a good idea when working on cars, but if you're comfortable with it as an owner and dont skip anything super critical then I dont suppose its a big deal.
#99
haha yeah i know what you mean there. Now i have to spend another weekend in the spring to redo half my transmission setup because i didn't have any money for... anything i needed. So far i've spent money on oil seals, tranny jack, gas for the stupid oldsmobile, and 27 and 36mm sockets.
#100
ok ok...i havnt been on to read the post in a while and i seem to be flamed a couple times back there about my post on the VE...now like i said i wasnt trying to be a **** or anything i was stating the obvious..the Vg was the first mass produced V6 engine from japan and nissan even states that there V6 engines of today are all based off of the VG..and the only common problem with them are the manifold bolts, another thing that i have checked up on is that for some reason(i cant seem to figure why)but they make many performance parts for the VG ,cams, valves, rods, pistons, etc. etc.etc...but barely **** for the VE...now im not downing the VE and im not saying if you like the VE your wrong...Im just saying that the VG are alot less problematic then the VE..that is all im saying...
#101
ok ok...i havnt been on to read the post in a while and i seem to be flamed a couple times back there about my post on the VE...now like i said i wasnt trying to be a **** or anything i was stating the obvious..the Vg was the first mass produced V6 engine from japan and nissan even states that there V6 engines of today are all based off of the VG..and the only common problem with them are the manifold bolts, another thing that i have checked up on is that for some reason(i cant seem to figure why)but they make many performance parts for the VG ,cams, valves, rods, pistons, etc. etc.etc...but barely **** for the VE...now im not downing the VE and im not saying if you like the VE your wrong...Im just saying that the VG are alot less problematic then the VE..that is all im saying...
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Edit: And exclusive
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#102
Originally Posted by Pearl93VE
VG:
Timing Belt + Water Pump every 70k miles = $700
VE:
VTC rebuild/ tensioners every 150k miles = $900
for one the vtc usually start to tick well before 150k ussually around 100k
you can get the belt and pump for the vg for under $50 at a parts store and right around 120 for oem and its so much easier replace those than rebiulding/replacing the vtcs not to mention the vtc can start ticking again after a rebiuld in my opinion there not worth the 10hp they give but i have nothing against a timing chain its just the vtcs that are frustrating
VG:
Timing Belt + Water Pump every 70k miles = $700
VE:
VTC rebuild/ tensioners every 150k miles = $900
for one the vtc usually start to tick well before 150k ussually around 100k
you can get the belt and pump for the vg for under $50 at a parts store and right around 120 for oem and its so much easier replace those than rebiulding/replacing the vtcs not to mention the vtc can start ticking again after a rebiuld in my opinion there not worth the 10hp they give but i have nothing against a timing chain its just the vtcs that are frustrating
Not Replacing the timing belt on the VG in time = BANG!! CRASH!!! Bent stuff!
#103
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