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Any ideas about wheel noise on freeway?

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Old 03-01-2008, 05:35 PM
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Any ideas about wheel noise on freeway?

When I am on the freeway- my right front wheel started getting very loud, like a loud humming. I had it checked at Big-O tires, and they said the tire was fine, so it must be something else. It seems to be getting louder even at lower speeds now. The tire usually would have seperated by now if that was thr problem + it's only about a year old and has like 70% of the tread left.

I have time to look at it today- but what should I look for? I recently(within the last 2yrs) had an alignment- which caused everything else to need to be replaced- the axles, the steering column, CV boots.

What should I check?
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Old 03-01-2008, 05:55 PM
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wheel bearing...
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
wheel bearing...

+1

or someone put a long heavy duty twist tie on your axle.
I know someone who did that to someone and they ended up going to the mechanic 3x, $900 later. shop never noticed the zip tie or said anything
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:54 AM
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DOUBLE POST! PLEASE USE OTHER THREAD!


Sorry, but there is an other thread by the same person, same title, that has more answers. please use it.

this will get deleted soon enough...
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by benstoked
DOUBLE POST! PLEASE USE OTHER THREAD!


Sorry, but there is an other thread by the same person, same title, that has more answers. please use it.

this will get deleted soon enough...
merging is a more likely/logical idea
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:07 PM
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$500 for the Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly for the front right- rip off?

I went to the dealership to get the seatbelt replaced and had them look at the wheel at the same time. They said it is the wheel bearing/ Hub assemble - is $500 way to much to do it, or is that reasonable? I finished spending $1600 on the axles/rack and pinon about a year ago.....

And I wasn't trying to double post, but the other thread migrated more towards just the seat belt ( which did help quite a bit)
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:28 PM
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yeah, I had just woke up(or rather gotten up since i didnt get any sleep), and had seen 2 threads with the same name, by you... still. I was pissed and took it out on the thread. I was out of line. I am indeed sorry.

as to your last question, $500 seems out of line to me. then again, I refuse to let somebody else work on my car when i can do it.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...4-p-48564.html
$50 + diy = $50... if you have the tools to do it.
Whats the going labor rate, $100/hr? this shouldnt be more than a 2hr job for a qualified shop, right?
(remember, I work on my own cars, and take my own time, goof off, sleep off hang overs, etc...)
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:34 PM
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To do the front wheel bearings, you are going to need access to a shop press, it takes a few tons of force to remove them from the spindle/hub assembly.

Also, there is a good chance you will have to replace the spindle, they tend to get damaged when the wheel bearings go bad.

As far as price goes, $500 is a little high for one earing job, but if you cant do it yourself, then you are at the mercy of the shop.
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:11 PM
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Thanks for the link- I was trying to find the part, but autozone and a general google search didn't work.

Yeah, I prefer to work on my car myself when I can- still learning though. The autozone repair manual had only showed several "special tools" and said to compress it to 5 tons - didn't look like something I could do without access to a shop.
At that price it does seem outrageous- do you know if they sell a whole assembly I could fit on there instead of having to take it apart? (I don't know if it is even possible)

Thanks for the help guys it'll take them a couple days to get the parts and to give back the car (for seatbelt and bearing assembly)
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by doomtoo
Thanks for the link- I was trying to find the part, but autozone and a general google search didn't work.

Yeah, I prefer to work on my car myself when I can- still learning though. The autozone repair manual had only showed several "special tools" and said to compress it to 5 tons - didn't look like something I could do without access to a shop.
At that price it does seem outrageous- do you know if they sell a whole assembly I could fit on there instead of having to take it apart? (I don't know if it is even possible)

Thanks for the help guys it'll take them a couple days to get the parts and to give back the car (for seatbelt and bearing assembly)

When my wheel bearing failed, i found some low mileage used spindle/hub assemblies at my local junkyard for $25 per side. It is much easier to replace the entire unit, as you do not need to press out/in the bearings.
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
When my wheel bearing failed, i found some low mileage used spindle/hub assemblies at my local junkyard for $25 per side. It is much easier to replace the entire unit, as you do not need to press out/in the bearings.
hard part there is finding low milage units...(especially for a VE-5!!)
on the jy units. 8(?) bolts/nuts off, quick tap on the axle, slide new back on...
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by benstoked
hard part there is finding low milage units...(especially for a VE-5!!)
on the jy units. 8(?) bolts/nuts off, quick tap on the axle, slide new back on...
Any ve will do, it doesn't have to be a manual.
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Any ve will do, it doesn't have to be a manual.
mkay, I thought the ve-5 =/= ve-auto or vg
so its vg or ve hubs, correct? (info will be retained for later... mods...)
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by benstoked
mkay, I thought the ve-5 =/= ve-auto or vg
so its vg or ve hubs, correct? (info will be retained for later... mods...)

The vg hub/spindle is different from the ve, thats it..
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Also, there is a good chance you will have to replace the spindle, they tend to get damaged when the wheel bearings go bad.
Can someone please explain this to me. I have seen Matt post about that and don't understand why the hub goes bad. The only thing I can figure is if the inner race were to jam and the hub would rotate around it and wear down the diameter of the hub.
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Old 03-06-2008, 02:40 PM
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came out to $615 for one side!!!!!
Darn dealerships... 1 credit card deeper in the hole....

I called them up after realizing that I might be able to get the whole thing at a junk yard, but it was too late :/ They said the hub /central peice was ground down, and the parts they charged was $184 for hub assembly, and $82 for bearing.. labor was 282 - came out to $550 - then it says I had to pay $40 for shop charge for repair order...!!!!!!
Insane- That little bearing assembly cost me more than a 32" LCD tv would cost- more than a brand new computer.. just insane....

Thanks for the help - I guess I won't be taking my car to the dealership anymore unless for only warrenty work
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:15 PM
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why didn't you take it to an independent shop? You do realize the dealership (although should be reliable for parts and labor) would be the MOST expensive option for having a non-warranty repair?
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:32 AM
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I know- but assuming it took 3hrs, that should only be $60 more- and on the way to the dealership my wheel started making snapping/popping sounds, so I figured I wouldn't risk it (and from what I read on the internet, bad bearings can cause a wheel to just fall off eventually).

And last time I decided to get an alignment becuase my tires were wearing uneven, my normal place "fixed it", and I ended up having to replace to whole steering system- which even now doesn't feel as well as before I took it there (the tires and the steering wheels stopped responding together the way they are supposed to)
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Old 03-07-2008, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by doomtoo
I know- but assuming it took 3hrs, that should only be $60 more- and on the way to the dealership my wheel started making snapping/popping sounds, so I figured I wouldn't risk it (and from what I read on the internet, bad bearings can cause a wheel to just fall off eventually).

And last time I decided to get an alignment becuase my tires were wearing uneven, my normal place "fixed it", and I ended up having to replace to whole steering system- which even now doesn't feel as well as before I took it there (the tires and the steering wheels stopped responding together the way they are supposed to)
yeah i've seen it happen, but not on a normal car. Though an extremely extremely rare failure on a NASCAR car, I have seen a few times where the wheel bearing went bad, the hub began to glow red-hot and the wheel was wobbling around and if they driver didn't stop, it came off, and if they did, the metal cooled down and fused together, locking the hub permanently.
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Old 03-07-2008, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by doomtoo
came out to $615 for one side!!!!!
Darn dealerships... 1 credit card deeper in the hole....

HAHAHAHAH< you got owned.
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Old 03-07-2008, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
yeah i've seen it happen, but not on a normal car. Though an extremely extremely rare failure on a NASCAR car, I have seen a few times where the wheel bearing went bad, the hub began to glow red-hot and the wheel was wobbling around and if they driver didn't stop, it came off, and if they did, the metal cooled down and fused together, locking the hub permanently.
one of my sisters was driving my dads 1998 ford E-150, w/350k miles. bearings did this at 75mph. lost the driver's front wheel, nearly wrecked the van(almost rolled it)...
so, yes it can happen. (then again, this van was over-used and over-abused... 1/2 ton used as a 1 ton...)
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:01 PM
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damn 615 bucks...I spent 30 on a bearing, 7 on inner seal, 7 on outer seal, and 35 to get old pressed out and new pressed in

30+35+14= 536 less than yours... oh well too late glad its all good now
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