Suspicious wire...
08-05-2008 | 08:59 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
Suspicious wire...
i noticed something today that from one of my injectors there is a red wire which then connects to this purple wire going over my intake then is going through the wall inside my car and merges into those bunch of wires under the dash.... i have no idea on the earth wat the hell is that for....anyways i disconnected that wire from my fuel injectors and didnt see any difference...and i dont wanna open those all bunch of wires under my dash and find out where it goes and wat the hell it is doing in my car....heres the video i made of that...just want to get ur guys opnion that wat it could be, should i connect this bak or jus let it stay disconnected?.....sorry for the crappy video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6OJmCZf3go
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6OJmCZf3go
Last edited by burhan92SE; 08-05-2008 at 09:04 PM.
08-05-2008 | 11:45 PM
#4
Maybe they couldnt get or find a tach wire anyplace else.
Here's an excerpt from a thread on the12volt.com
"There seems to be a lot of confusion regarding where/how to find the so called tach wire. Here are a few comments:
The name of the game here is to get a signal that typically is an alternating frequency that is varying at a frequency that is representative of how many RPMs the engine is turning so that the RS can determine if the engine is running or not. In my opinion, this is the only way to go especially in cold weather for more reliable starts
The "old" style ignition system is pretty straight forward. A cam shaft inside the distributor opens an closes a set of contacts(points) which when closed, allow current to flow in the coil primary. The frequency of these "pulses of current" are directly proportional to how fast (RPMs) the engine is running. So merely running a wire to the "hot side" of the coil primary ( the other connection on the coil is typically tied to ground) and we have the "tach signal" for the RS system.Note that we need to run a wire through the firewall to tap this signal on the ignition coil.
The "new" style electronic ignition systems (aka "waste spark" systems )is whole different world. This system is computer controlled and basically uses three sensors ( 7 x Crankshaft position sensor, 24 x Crankshaft sensor and camshaft position sensor) to calculate engine rpm, when to fire the injector solenoids and how much to advance/retard spark among other things. So there really is no "tach wire" per se.
The three sensors typically are two "hall effect" and one "reluctance pickup" (the 7 X crank sensor which is the HEART of the system without which the engine will NOT start). So it probably is not a good idea to try to tap one of these signals to use as the tach signal. Probably the best way to "create" a tach wire is to pick off one of the fuel injector solenoid signals ( any one will do)right at the Power train control module ( aka "the computer"). This way there's no need to go through the firewall. However, you must be absolutely sure of the correct wire for as we know, a screwed up 'computer" replacement is huge bucks. Undoubtably, the best way to get it right is to have the actual service manual for the vehicle which will give the computer connector signals and pin outs. Basically, each injector solenoid has 2 wires. One wire is "common" ( the same color at each solenoid) and is tied to +12V through usually a 20 amp fuse labeled INJ/COIL in the fuse panel. Each individual other wire on each solenoid goes through the harness and back to the computer which switches (pulses) that wire to ground to activate the injector at a frequency proportional to engine RPM . So all you need to do is tie on to one of these wires ( identified by the service manual) and bingo, there's your "tach signal".
One other key point about computer controlled systems. If you disconnect power to the computer, it "forgets" stored emissions control data and the car ( in most Startes) will NOT pass inspection because the emissions tests will read "incomplete" until the car has been driven about a hundred miles under various speeds , engine start/stop, load conditions etc and the computer has a chance to compile a history of "good" ECM data. So to keep your customer happy, take a look at the inspection sticker. If the car is due for inspection ask your cusdtomer to get it inspected before you begin work. This prevents the situation where the guy comes back screaming at you that his car won't pass inspection since you worked on it.
Hope this long (too long) post helps someone."
Now go and find out what the hell is under your dash and report back.
Here's an excerpt from a thread on the12volt.com
"There seems to be a lot of confusion regarding where/how to find the so called tach wire. Here are a few comments:
The name of the game here is to get a signal that typically is an alternating frequency that is varying at a frequency that is representative of how many RPMs the engine is turning so that the RS can determine if the engine is running or not. In my opinion, this is the only way to go especially in cold weather for more reliable starts
The "old" style ignition system is pretty straight forward. A cam shaft inside the distributor opens an closes a set of contacts(points) which when closed, allow current to flow in the coil primary. The frequency of these "pulses of current" are directly proportional to how fast (RPMs) the engine is running. So merely running a wire to the "hot side" of the coil primary ( the other connection on the coil is typically tied to ground) and we have the "tach signal" for the RS system.Note that we need to run a wire through the firewall to tap this signal on the ignition coil.
The "new" style electronic ignition systems (aka "waste spark" systems )is whole different world. This system is computer controlled and basically uses three sensors ( 7 x Crankshaft position sensor, 24 x Crankshaft sensor and camshaft position sensor) to calculate engine rpm, when to fire the injector solenoids and how much to advance/retard spark among other things. So there really is no "tach wire" per se.
The three sensors typically are two "hall effect" and one "reluctance pickup" (the 7 X crank sensor which is the HEART of the system without which the engine will NOT start). So it probably is not a good idea to try to tap one of these signals to use as the tach signal. Probably the best way to "create" a tach wire is to pick off one of the fuel injector solenoid signals ( any one will do)right at the Power train control module ( aka "the computer"). This way there's no need to go through the firewall. However, you must be absolutely sure of the correct wire for as we know, a screwed up 'computer" replacement is huge bucks. Undoubtably, the best way to get it right is to have the actual service manual for the vehicle which will give the computer connector signals and pin outs. Basically, each injector solenoid has 2 wires. One wire is "common" ( the same color at each solenoid) and is tied to +12V through usually a 20 amp fuse labeled INJ/COIL in the fuse panel. Each individual other wire on each solenoid goes through the harness and back to the computer which switches (pulses) that wire to ground to activate the injector at a frequency proportional to engine RPM . So all you need to do is tie on to one of these wires ( identified by the service manual) and bingo, there's your "tach signal".
One other key point about computer controlled systems. If you disconnect power to the computer, it "forgets" stored emissions control data and the car ( in most Startes) will NOT pass inspection because the emissions tests will read "incomplete" until the car has been driven about a hundred miles under various speeds , engine start/stop, load conditions etc and the computer has a chance to compile a history of "good" ECM data. So to keep your customer happy, take a look at the inspection sticker. If the car is due for inspection ask your cusdtomer to get it inspected before you begin work. This prevents the situation where the guy comes back screaming at you that his car won't pass inspection since you worked on it.
Hope this long (too long) post helps someone."
Now go and find out what the hell is under your dash and report back.
08-06-2008 | 12:08 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
Maybe they couldnt get or find a tach wire anyplace else.
Here's an excerpt from a thread on the12volt.com
"There seems to be a lot of confusion regarding where/how to find the so called tach wire. Here are a few comments:
The name of the game here is to get a signal that typically is an alternating frequency that is varying at a frequency that is representative of how many RPMs the engine is turning so that the RS can determine if the engine is running or not. In my opinion, this is the only way to go especially in cold weather for more reliable starts
The "old" style ignition system is pretty straight forward. A cam shaft inside the distributor opens an closes a set of contacts(points) which when closed, allow current to flow in the coil primary. The frequency of these "pulses of current" are directly proportional to how fast (RPMs) the engine is running. So merely running a wire to the "hot side" of the coil primary ( the other connection on the coil is typically tied to ground) and we have the "tach signal" for the RS system.Note that we need to run a wire through the firewall to tap this signal on the ignition coil.
The "new" style electronic ignition systems (aka "waste spark" systems )is whole different world. This system is computer controlled and basically uses three sensors ( 7 x Crankshaft position sensor, 24 x Crankshaft sensor and camshaft position sensor) to calculate engine rpm, when to fire the injector solenoids and how much to advance/retard spark among other things. So there really is no "tach wire" per se.
The three sensors typically are two "hall effect" and one "reluctance pickup" (the 7 X crank sensor which is the HEART of the system without which the engine will NOT start). So it probably is not a good idea to try to tap one of these signals to use as the tach signal. Probably the best way to "create" a tach wire is to pick off one of the fuel injector solenoid signals ( any one will do)right at the Power train control module ( aka "the computer"). This way there's no need to go through the firewall. However, you must be absolutely sure of the correct wire for as we know, a screwed up 'computer" replacement is huge bucks. Undoubtably, the best way to get it right is to have the actual service manual for the vehicle which will give the computer connector signals and pin outs. Basically, each injector solenoid has 2 wires. One wire is "common" ( the same color at each solenoid) and is tied to +12V through usually a 20 amp fuse labeled INJ/COIL in the fuse panel. Each individual other wire on each solenoid goes through the harness and back to the computer which switches (pulses) that wire to ground to activate the injector at a frequency proportional to engine RPM . So all you need to do is tie on to one of these wires ( identified by the service manual) and bingo, there's your "tach signal".
One other key point about computer controlled systems. If you disconnect power to the computer, it "forgets" stored emissions control data and the car ( in most Startes) will NOT pass inspection because the emissions tests will read "incomplete" until the car has been driven about a hundred miles under various speeds , engine start/stop, load conditions etc and the computer has a chance to compile a history of "good" ECM data. So to keep your customer happy, take a look at the inspection sticker. If the car is due for inspection ask your cusdtomer to get it inspected before you begin work. This prevents the situation where the guy comes back screaming at you that his car won't pass inspection since you worked on it.
Hope this long (too long) post helps someone."
Now go and find out what the hell is under your dash and report back.
Here's an excerpt from a thread on the12volt.com
"There seems to be a lot of confusion regarding where/how to find the so called tach wire. Here are a few comments:
The name of the game here is to get a signal that typically is an alternating frequency that is varying at a frequency that is representative of how many RPMs the engine is turning so that the RS can determine if the engine is running or not. In my opinion, this is the only way to go especially in cold weather for more reliable starts
The "old" style ignition system is pretty straight forward. A cam shaft inside the distributor opens an closes a set of contacts(points) which when closed, allow current to flow in the coil primary. The frequency of these "pulses of current" are directly proportional to how fast (RPMs) the engine is running. So merely running a wire to the "hot side" of the coil primary ( the other connection on the coil is typically tied to ground) and we have the "tach signal" for the RS system.Note that we need to run a wire through the firewall to tap this signal on the ignition coil.
The "new" style electronic ignition systems (aka "waste spark" systems )is whole different world. This system is computer controlled and basically uses three sensors ( 7 x Crankshaft position sensor, 24 x Crankshaft sensor and camshaft position sensor) to calculate engine rpm, when to fire the injector solenoids and how much to advance/retard spark among other things. So there really is no "tach wire" per se.
The three sensors typically are two "hall effect" and one "reluctance pickup" (the 7 X crank sensor which is the HEART of the system without which the engine will NOT start). So it probably is not a good idea to try to tap one of these signals to use as the tach signal. Probably the best way to "create" a tach wire is to pick off one of the fuel injector solenoid signals ( any one will do)right at the Power train control module ( aka "the computer"). This way there's no need to go through the firewall. However, you must be absolutely sure of the correct wire for as we know, a screwed up 'computer" replacement is huge bucks. Undoubtably, the best way to get it right is to have the actual service manual for the vehicle which will give the computer connector signals and pin outs. Basically, each injector solenoid has 2 wires. One wire is "common" ( the same color at each solenoid) and is tied to +12V through usually a 20 amp fuse labeled INJ/COIL in the fuse panel. Each individual other wire on each solenoid goes through the harness and back to the computer which switches (pulses) that wire to ground to activate the injector at a frequency proportional to engine RPM . So all you need to do is tie on to one of these wires ( identified by the service manual) and bingo, there's your "tach signal".
One other key point about computer controlled systems. If you disconnect power to the computer, it "forgets" stored emissions control data and the car ( in most Startes) will NOT pass inspection because the emissions tests will read "incomplete" until the car has been driven about a hundred miles under various speeds , engine start/stop, load conditions etc and the computer has a chance to compile a history of "good" ECM data. So to keep your customer happy, take a look at the inspection sticker. If the car is due for inspection ask your cusdtomer to get it inspected before you begin work. This prevents the situation where the guy comes back screaming at you that his car won't pass inspection since you worked on it.
Hope this long (too long) post helps someone."
Now go and find out what the hell is under your dash and report back.
and wat is TACH wire
edit: my car doesnt have any distributor....its 92SE....since i disconnected the wire from injector my car is noticeably running better? not that better like better than before or its jus my MIND?
Last edited by burhan92SE; 08-06-2008 at 12:24 AM.
08-06-2008 | 06:31 AM
#7
from the looks of your underhood, you have a bunch of aftermarket electrical crapola installed in the car.
that wire as others have said is part of a remote start system, it is used to pick up a signal that the engine is running at sufficient speed.
I would gut that alarm system and all the other extraneous wiring and electronics unless you have the control for it.
that wire as others have said is part of a remote start system, it is used to pick up a signal that the engine is running at sufficient speed.
I would gut that alarm system and all the other extraneous wiring and electronics unless you have the control for it.
08-06-2008 | 07:38 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
from the looks of your underhood, you have a bunch of aftermarket electrical crapola installed in the car.
that wire as others have said is part of a remote start system, it is used to pick up a signal that the engine is running at sufficient speed.
I would gut that alarm system and all the other extraneous wiring and electronics unless you have the control for it.
that wire as others have said is part of a remote start system, it is used to pick up a signal that the engine is running at sufficient speed.
I would gut that alarm system and all the other extraneous wiring and electronics unless you have the control for it.
08-06-2008 | 08:12 PM
#9
ya i have the big black box under my dash...i think thats after market alarm...but i dont have any remote for it....plus it does work for example like if i rolled down my all windows and lock all the doors, take out the key from the car then pull any lock up by hand my car goes on alaram..i then have to put the car key in the driver side door to stop the alaram....
08-06-2008 | 08:15 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
08-06-2008 | 08:23 PM
#11
if you can find out the make and model of the alarm system, you can get key-fobs for it. you would have to do a little googling, and maybe ask a q or 2 in the audio forum, here, but they can be had.(assuming the alarm uses fobs, I don't think there are any worthwhile that don't)
08-06-2008 | 08:58 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
this is wat i just took out from under the dash behind the fuse box...and on the third pic in the white sticker on the bak of this S*** says this...
use only with automatic transmission
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| black scanning lines
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Product : NS-1003 000211044 FCC ID : NAH 800R
v.H6.1 - S5.0 Date: 2001-09-28 CANADA 2678 102 309A
this device complies with part 15 of FCC rules. Operation is subject to following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause harmful interference and (2) this device may accept any interference received. Including interference that may cause undesired operation
Complies with ISC: RSS-210.....
use only with automatic transmission
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| black scanning lines
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Product : NS-1003 000211044 FCC ID : NAH 800R
v.H6.1 - S5.0 Date: 2001-09-28 CANADA 2678 102 309A
this device complies with part 15 of FCC rules. Operation is subject to following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause harmful interference and (2) this device may accept any interference received. Including interference that may cause undesired operation
Complies with ISC: RSS-210.....
08-06-2008 | 09:01 PM
#14
generally unless you installed it, aftermarket oddness is gonna cause more trouble than it's worth. me and my friend are gonna have to figure out what's up with the wiring on the white 89 i'm fixing up for him... the PO did some WEEEEIRD stuff to it
08-06-2008 | 09:01 PM
#15
08-06-2008 | 09:04 PM
#16
08-06-2008 | 09:06 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
well this alarm have an advantage it doesn't let the car locked up till i take out the keys from ignition
edit: and if my doors are locked and i try to open my trunk with the key my alarm goes on plus if i unlocked the hood from inside the car and locks all the door and then go to hood and try to pop the hood my alarm goes on only if my doors are locked other wise no this goes with trunk too LOL some advantage this lil MF got rite here
edit: and if my doors are locked and i try to open my trunk with the key my alarm goes on plus if i unlocked the hood from inside the car and locks all the door and then go to hood and try to pop the hood my alarm goes on only if my doors are locked other wise no this goes with trunk too LOL some advantage this lil MF got rite here
Last edited by burhan92SE; 08-06-2008 at 09:09 PM.
08-06-2008 | 09:14 PM
#20
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
i m thinking of doing that swap into my VE...junkyard guys here got a GXE its really nice from inside its like u bought it yesterday...all seats are better than NEW MAXIMA i swear...and plus it got key less entery..sonar suspension and digital speed meter....i am so really going to the junkyard this weekend and taking all that stuff out...plus seats
edit:i took all that stuff MAF AND WATER C Solenoid from teh same car
edit:i took all that stuff MAF AND WATER C Solenoid from teh same car
Last edited by burhan92SE; 08-06-2008 at 09:17 PM.
08-06-2008 | 09:16 PM
#21
based on a little googling, I found the alarm thing is a remote start/alarm thingy made by ArticStart, or CompuSTAR or somebody... I smell cheapness. but that could be that I am DLing alot atm...
08-06-2008 | 09:18 PM
#22
i m thinking of doing that swap into my VE...junkyard guys here got a GXE its really nice from inside its like u bought it yesterday...all seats are better than NEW MAXIMA i swear...and plus it got key less entery..sonar suspension and digital speed meter....i am so really going to the junkyard this weekend and taking all that stuff out...plus seats
edit:i took all that stuff MAF AND WATER C Solenoid from teh same car
edit:i took all that stuff MAF AND WATER C Solenoid from teh same car
and the sonar is wortless, as far as I can tell. nobody has anything am for it.
08-06-2008 | 09:20 PM
#23
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
na i aint taking that sonar suspension...VE got better than that i was jus mentioning...but i m taking that key less all module and seats and digital speed meter...
08-06-2008 | 09:31 PM
#24
gl with the keyless swap. and take lots of pics. there is no writeup for it, that I have seen.
from what I have read, you would need to snag the entire under dash harness, as well as the door harnesses.
from what I have read, you would need to snag the entire under dash harness, as well as the door harnesses.
08-06-2008 | 09:41 PM
#25
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
....plus the alaram i found out...its NORDIC START NS 1003 REMOTE START...now i will have to find remote for it...better than installing a new alarm system, getting one for free and + installed...
08-06-2008 | 09:45 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
From: Surrey, B.C
this exactly wat i have
http://65.39.230.227/common/sitemedi...%20english.pdf
edit: and there is this another button someone customized it that if u wanna turn on the alarm or turn it off....its right beside the fuse box...and there u go...here the remote i need GOT IT http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...002938&catid=#
http://65.39.230.227/common/sitemedi...%20english.pdf
edit: and there is this another button someone customized it that if u wanna turn on the alarm or turn it off....its right beside the fuse box...and there u go...here the remote i need GOT IT http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...002938&catid=#
Last edited by burhan92SE; 08-06-2008 at 09:50 PM.
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