Rear Calipers - When Do You Replace?
08-18-2008, 12:23 PM
#9
mine are all original. all I've done is put pads on them every few years and keep driving. never even popped the seals off them.
I'm surprised I haven't had any problems with them, especially with all of the track use I've put on them.
another point for the "Italian Tune Up"!!
I'm surprised I haven't had any problems with them, especially with all of the track use I've put on them.
another point for the "Italian Tune Up"!!
08-18-2008, 12:30 PM
#10
mine are all original. all I've done is put pads on them every few years and keep driving. never even popped the seals off them.
I'm surprised I haven't had any problems with them, especially with all of the track use I've put on them.
another point for the "Italian Tune Up"!!
I'm surprised I haven't had any problems with them, especially with all of the track use I've put on them.
another point for the "Italian Tune Up"!!
08-18-2008, 02:10 PM
#11
Hey if you see rust on your rotors, then you've got a problem with either your caliper being seized whether the piston or the guidepins, if so then you should remove the caliper and inspect it. If its leaking then thats another sign
08-18-2008, 03:18 PM
#12
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Thanks guys
>if you see rust on your rotors, then you've got a problem with either your caliper
This was the reason I posted the thread. For some reason my rear rotors are rusty while my front ones look proper and smooth like polished metal. The rear ones look like the pads aren't even touching or barely touching.
I measured the wear limit on the rear pads, and they are 2mm greater than the min. so it shouldn't be the pads. I'll try all of the suggestions first.
>if you see rust on your rotors, then you've got a problem with either your caliper
This was the reason I posted the thread. For some reason my rear rotors are rusty while my front ones look proper and smooth like polished metal. The rear ones look like the pads aren't even touching or barely touching.
I measured the wear limit on the rear pads, and they are 2mm greater than the min. so it shouldn't be the pads. I'll try all of the suggestions first.
08-18-2008, 03:24 PM
#13
Thanks guys
>if you see rust on your rotors, then you've got a problem with either your caliper
This was the reason I posted the thread. For some reason my rear rotors are rusty while my front ones look proper and smooth like polished metal. The rear ones look like the pads aren't even touching or barely touching.
I measured the wear limit on the rear pads, and they are 2mm greater than the min. so it shouldn't be the pads. I'll try all of the suggestions first.
>if you see rust on your rotors, then you've got a problem with either your caliper
This was the reason I posted the thread. For some reason my rear rotors are rusty while my front ones look proper and smooth like polished metal. The rear ones look like the pads aren't even touching or barely touching.
I measured the wear limit on the rear pads, and they are 2mm greater than the min. so it shouldn't be the pads. I'll try all of the suggestions first.
Another way to tell if they work (which they dont if they have rust) is to jack up the rear and pull your handbrake, while the car is jacked attempt to turn the wheel by hand.
Since you measured the pads...do you know if either one is more worn than the other or are they both worn evenly?
08-18-2008, 03:30 PM
#14
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They were both worn evenly. I think the garage scammed a few years ago when they did "brake work" on it. By the looks of it, they didn't even touch the rears...the bleeder screws are completely seized into place rusted - and completely stripped when I tried to remove them with my flare crowfoot.
When I pull the handbrake, and then try rotating them (like when I'm torquing the lug nuts), the wheel doesn't move like the front ones.
The thing is, the handbrake is operated by a cable...while the foot brake is hydraulic....so I don't know if that test works.
When I pull the handbrake, and then try rotating them (like when I'm torquing the lug nuts), the wheel doesn't move like the front ones.
The thing is, the handbrake is operated by a cable...while the foot brake is hydraulic....so I don't know if that test works.
08-18-2008, 04:16 PM
#15
They were both worn evenly. I think the garage scammed a few years ago when they did "brake work" on it. By the looks of it, they didn't even touch the rears...the bleeder screws are completely seized into place rusted - and completely stripped when I tried to remove them with my flare crowfoot.
When I pull the handbrake, and then try rotating them (like when I'm torquing the lug nuts), the wheel doesn't move like the front ones.
The thing is, the handbrake is operated by a cable...while the foot brake is hydraulic....so I don't know if that test works.
When I pull the handbrake, and then try rotating them (like when I'm torquing the lug nuts), the wheel doesn't move like the front ones.
The thing is, the handbrake is operated by a cable...while the foot brake is hydraulic....so I don't know if that test works.
Yea but its the same piston that presses against the rotors whether it be hydralic or cable. who knows maybe you just gotta free up some stuck guidepins. Have you checked if the rotors are rusted only on one side?
08-18-2008, 06:24 PM
#16
If the bleeder screws are rusted in place and the guide pins are rusted as well, just replace the caliper. you may be able to rebuild it, but it's not worth the time or effort- it'll just happen again soon once those pins start rusting up on you. just buy some new/reman calipers and move on with life...... and make sure the replacements have the torque arm with them. some calipers don't come with them.
08-20-2008, 12:47 AM
#17
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>If the bleeder screws are rusted in place and the guide pins are rusted
OK thanks I'm probably going to do that but this car is starting to feel like a black hole for money and I'm just doing OEM stuff & no performance stuff.
Is this year impossible to keep on the road without something breaking in 1 month of just city driving? I work for myself so I don't need to be at places on time, but I couldn't imagine how a regular working person could rely on it day to day. I still see ALOT of 3rd gens on the road EVERY DAY here in the city, but most are showing rust and alot have loud exhaust noise. They had a good stock of the 3rd Gens in the JY too. (I still think the 3rd Gen was the peak for the maxima model.)
I wish I could buy a souped up looking one like some of you have...but I couldn't fathom how much it costs to make them look that good.
OK thanks I'm probably going to do that but this car is starting to feel like a black hole for money and I'm just doing OEM stuff & no performance stuff.
Is this year impossible to keep on the road without something breaking in 1 month of just city driving? I work for myself so I don't need to be at places on time, but I couldn't imagine how a regular working person could rely on it day to day. I still see ALOT of 3rd gens on the road EVERY DAY here in the city, but most are showing rust and alot have loud exhaust noise. They had a good stock of the 3rd Gens in the JY too. (I still think the 3rd Gen was the peak for the maxima model.)
I wish I could buy a souped up looking one like some of you have...but I couldn't fathom how much it costs to make them look that good.
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