Won't Turn Over.... Video Attached
08-11-2009, 05:57 AM
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
I plan on keeping her as long as there are still parts to be had and keep her on the road... 
---> NISSAN
08-26-2009, 07:38 PM
#42
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
So some time has passed... the replacement motor turned out to be poorly taken care of... you could sink your finger into the sludge about 1/2 an inch...
So I had this motor sent back and another arrived shortly after in much better condition... It is being torn down and finished out this week... (unfortunately the spark plugs were cross threaded so, they all have to be re-tapped)
So I had this motor sent back and another arrived shortly after in much better condition... It is being torn down and finished out this week... (unfortunately the spark plugs were cross threaded so, they all have to be re-tapped)
Last edited by kringle03; 08-26-2009 at 10:36 PM.
08-26-2009, 07:47 PM
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
The tranny however has been finished and set to the side. Here's pictures of the busted gears/rough bearings from the first rebuild by Eagle Transmissions...
Eagle rebuilt this thing 60K back and I had it lock up on me at Highway speeds in traffic with less than 1 hour of drive time on it... I believe they left the hard parts in there and didn't replace them at all even though they charged me $2400 for the rebuild...
But I went to a small time shop with just two guys at it (the owners, and the only employees) and they tore it down showed me all the damage and the damage to the actual housing and fortunately had a replacement tranny available in the corner; rebuilt that one and replaced all worn hard parts and had it ready in less than a day for $1200 (oh and new TC too). Travis County Transmissions.
Eagle rebuilt this thing 60K back and I had it lock up on me at Highway speeds in traffic with less than 1 hour of drive time on it... I believe they left the hard parts in there and didn't replace them at all even though they charged me $2400 for the rebuild...
But I went to a small time shop with just two guys at it (the owners, and the only employees) and they tore it down showed me all the damage and the damage to the actual housing and fortunately had a replacement tranny available in the corner; rebuilt that one and replaced all worn hard parts and had it ready in less than a day for $1200 (oh and new TC too). Travis County Transmissions.
08-26-2009, 10:02 PM
#44
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
That's alot of sludge - surprising for an engine that looks new on the outside. When you sent it back, did you tell them it was because of the sludge? How did you get the exchange. I didn't know they would service warranty because of sludge.
When you say it's being torn down this week, do you mean they are overhauling (what needs to be done) the new replacement for free? That's an amazing deal if they are.
When you say it's being torn down this week, do you mean they are overhauling (what needs to be done) the new replacement for free? That's an amazing deal if they are.
08-26-2009, 10:34 PM
#45
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
That's alot of sludge - surprising for an engine that looks new on the outside. When you sent it back, did you tell them it was because of the sludge? How did you get the exchange. I didn't know they would service warranty because of sludge.
When you say it's being torn down this week, do you mean they are overhauling (what needs to be done) the new replacement for free? That's an amazing deal if they are.
When you say it's being torn down this week, do you mean they are overhauling (what needs to be done) the new replacement for free? That's an amazing deal if they are.
And there's a one year warranty for parts and labor on the motor from Green Leaf so if that motor had been installed there's a good chance they'd be paying out later for repairs. Torn down, as in intake/valve covers/fuel rail/injectors being removed for cleaning and inspection. All new gaskets, new rear main engine seal, new exhaust studs being installed, spark plugs re-threaded, new camshaft seals, new crank seal, new rubber where needed, etc. Anything that can be done as a preventative measure while it's easier to do with the motor out. So not a full overhaul but a good amount of work nonetheless.
Oh and question to anyone, I haven't done any poking around for this yet but this motor is slightly different than my original... What's the difference of the VGs that have the square tooth TB and the rounded TB?
08-26-2009, 11:20 PM
#46
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
Woah - that's a good deal you got, I can't beleive they ship out the replacement so fast. Do tell if the replacement has sludge in it too. I'm considering switching my VG30E to synthetic after my break-in period is done. I've heard synthetic will cut down on sludge buildup - not sure if it's scientifically proven, but it could be worth it for the long run. Your engine should last forever if the bottom end is good too. Those mini overhaul things your doing will go a long way too.
I just checked my crankshaft pin journals and I don't know why it's showing zero wear for 16 yrs use. Something is baffling me about this engine. Did Nissan really build them THAT good? A relative of mine said the VG30 engine was supposedly one of the best engines ever that Nissan made. Don't know if this is just hog wash though. And I had next to no sludge. Dino oil it's whole life. No engine work done ever besides timing belt once. Did the seafoam twice in cars life. Don't think i'll do the seafoam thing again though.
Supposedly the round tooth belt will go further out without change in Miles, so I guess in that respect alone it could be a benefit. I was thinking on going to the wreckers and finding them, but seems like a horrible task, cutting out that valve cover (and everything in the way) in the Junk Yard, with no air supply.
I just checked my crankshaft pin journals and I don't know why it's showing zero wear for 16 yrs use. Something is baffling me about this engine. Did Nissan really build them THAT good? A relative of mine said the VG30 engine was supposedly one of the best engines ever that Nissan made. Don't know if this is just hog wash though. And I had next to no sludge. Dino oil it's whole life. No engine work done ever besides timing belt once. Did the seafoam twice in cars life. Don't think i'll do the seafoam thing again though.
Supposedly the round tooth belt will go further out without change in Miles, so I guess in that respect alone it could be a benefit. I was thinking on going to the wreckers and finding them, but seems like a horrible task, cutting out that valve cover (and everything in the way) in the Junk Yard, with no air supply.
08-27-2009, 05:39 AM
#47
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
Woah - that's a good deal you got, I can't beleive they ship out the replacement so fast. Do tell if the replacement has sludge in it too. I'm considering switching my VG30E to synthetic after my break-in period is done. I've heard synthetic will cut down on sludge buildup - not sure if it's scientifically proven, but it could be worth it for the long run. Your engine should last forever if the bottom end is good too. Those mini overhaul things your doing will go a long way too.
I just checked my crankshaft pin journals and I don't know why it's showing zero wear for 16 yrs use. Something is baffling me about this engine. Did Nissan really build them THAT good? A relative of mine said the VG30 engine was supposedly one of the best engines ever that Nissan made. Don't know if this is just hog wash though. And I had next to no sludge. Dino oil it's whole life. No engine work done ever besides timing belt once. Did the seafoam twice in cars life. Don't think i'll do the seafoam thing again though.
Supposedly the round tooth belt will go further out without change in Miles, so I guess in that respect alone it could be a benefit. I was thinking on going to the wreckers and finding them, but seems like a horrible task, cutting out that valve cover (and everything in the way) in the Junk Yard, with no air supply.
I just checked my crankshaft pin journals and I don't know why it's showing zero wear for 16 yrs use. Something is baffling me about this engine. Did Nissan really build them THAT good? A relative of mine said the VG30 engine was supposedly one of the best engines ever that Nissan made. Don't know if this is just hog wash though. And I had next to no sludge. Dino oil it's whole life. No engine work done ever besides timing belt once. Did the seafoam twice in cars life. Don't think i'll do the seafoam thing again though.
Supposedly the round tooth belt will go further out without change in Miles, so I guess in that respect alone it could be a benefit. I was thinking on going to the wreckers and finding them, but seems like a horrible task, cutting out that valve cover (and everything in the way) in the Junk Yard, with no air supply.
Dude, this is a pic of my original engine with 285K on it, you could eat off of it compared to that first engine they sent me... I took it for comparison shots... I always ran Castrol GTX 10W30... the only thing wrong with the engine of course is the busted crank snout... if it weren't for that, these things would last forever...
08-27-2009, 11:15 AM
#48
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
That's insane how the crank snout broke on it's own. Does anyone know how this happens? I could understand people wacking it on an angle to try and get it out, but just running the car that thing broke without you touching it?
08-27-2009, 12:37 PM
#49
overtightened belts can do it. so can using a torch in the crank pulley/spocket area.
08-27-2009, 12:43 PM
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
But there was a crack in the half moon key slot on the crank from a year or so back... don't know what caused it... but that's not actually where the crank broke either. It broke almost flush with the seal... I have seen other VGs on the Org in years passed, that busted in the same manner... though once again I don't know the reason as to why...
08-27-2009, 12:56 PM
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
Crank snouts on many engines aren't very strong. over torquing on a belt change, replacing the oil pump in the case of the VG with getting the belt gear off, and just simple bad luck.
08-28-2009, 12:21 AM
#52
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
I'll have to keep that in mind when removing those gears in the future. And when the crank snout breaks while driving, does that mean it's automatically instant damage to your engine ....as in the whole engine is toast?
08-28-2009, 01:07 AM
#53
It's definitely an engine that wasn't receiving any TLC whatsoever... Looks like a ole school Quaker State engine! Quaker State b4 being bought buy Pennzoil had major issues with thier high wax parrofin content, caused oil to sludge on the topside of most OHV and abused OHC engines. This engine looks like they performed 1 oil change per year or 1 oil change per 6 months for sure.....
08-28-2009, 02:34 AM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pretoria - South Africa
Posts: 1,205
Wow I didn't know they were that weak. What are they made of, some soft type of metal?
I'll have to keep that in mind when removing those gears in the future. And when the crank snout breaks while driving, does that mean it's automatically instant damage to your engine ....as in the whole engine is toast?
I'll have to keep that in mind when removing those gears in the future. And when the crank snout breaks while driving, does that mean it's automatically instant damage to your engine ....as in the whole engine is toast?
The snout of the crank can be damaged/half broken off due to improper ancillary adjustments or hammering actions on the pulley to get it off or whatever, and then run for years till metal fatigue eventually one day reaches the critical point and the whole front simply snaps off ...............it can also break just about immediately..................... I wouldn't say that the 3rd gen crank is necessarily "weak" in that respect - most cranks can only take so much unwanted stress at that position and approaching/exceeding that figure is simply looking for trouble - common sense dictates not to fiddle with an extremely short and thorny stick near the **** of an angry lion
08-28-2009, 11:58 AM
#55
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
Geez that's a costly failure. I remember when cutting the drive axle out that thing was impossibly tough after cutting even 90% through. But then again it's different material?
I thought I got ripped off for that 80.00 puller just for the crank, in the end I see the potential cost if I kept hitting it without that puller. Without that puller, I just don't see how you guys pulled it off by hand. It was on SO TIGHT. I even used the impact gun with the puller to get it off.
I'll take a photo later and Kringle I wonder if you can compare if this small crack/gouge (OEM?) in the harmonic balancer is a timing mark or from the last mechanics who pulled it from behind.
I thought I got ripped off for that 80.00 puller just for the crank, in the end I see the potential cost if I kept hitting it without that puller. Without that puller, I just don't see how you guys pulled it off by hand. It was on SO TIGHT. I even used the impact gun with the puller to get it off.
I'll take a photo later and Kringle I wonder if you can compare if this small crack/gouge (OEM?) in the harmonic balancer is a timing mark or from the last mechanics who pulled it from behind.
08-28-2009, 12:37 PM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
Geez that's a costly failure. I remember when cutting the drive axle out that thing was impossibly tough after cutting even 90% through. But then again it's different material?
I thought I got ripped off for that 80.00 puller just for the crank, in the end I see the potential cost if I kept hitting it without that puller. Without that puller, I just don't see how you guys pulled it off by hand. It was on SO TIGHT. I even used the impact gun with the puller to get it off.
I'll take a photo later and Kringle I wonder if you can compare if this small crack/gouge (OEM?) in the harmonic balancer is a timing mark or from the last mechanics who pulled it from behind.
I thought I got ripped off for that 80.00 puller just for the crank, in the end I see the potential cost if I kept hitting it without that puller. Without that puller, I just don't see how you guys pulled it off by hand. It was on SO TIGHT. I even used the impact gun with the puller to get it off.
I'll take a photo later and Kringle I wonder if you can compare if this small crack/gouge (OEM?) in the harmonic balancer is a timing mark or from the last mechanics who pulled it from behind.
08-28-2009, 04:44 PM
#57
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
08-29-2009, 01:42 PM
#58
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lakewood, CO
Posts: 19
The round tooth timing belt was added in the later year cars (1994?). Mine is a 94 and has round teeth.
08-29-2009, 07:56 PM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,042
Woah - that's a good deal you got, I can't beleive they ship out the replacement so fast. Do tell if the replacement has sludge in it too. I'm considering switching my VG30E to synthetic after my break-in period is done. I've heard synthetic will cut down on sludge buildup - not sure if it's scientifically proven, but it could be worth it for the long run. Your engine should last forever if the bottom end is good too. Those mini overhaul things your doing will go a long way too.
I just checked my crankshaft pin journals and I don't know why it's showing zero wear for 16 yrs use. Something is baffling me about this engine. Did Nissan really build them THAT good? A relative of mine said the VG30 engine was supposedly one of the best engines ever that Nissan made. Don't know if this is just hog wash though. And I had next to no sludge. Dino oil it's whole life. No engine work done ever besides timing belt once. Did the seafoam twice in cars life. Don't think i'll do the seafoam thing again though.
Supposedly the round tooth belt will go further out without change in Miles, so I guess in that respect alone it could be a benefit. I was thinking on going to the wreckers and finding them, but seems like a horrible task, cutting out that valve cover (and everything in the way) in the Junk Yard, with no air supply.
I just checked my crankshaft pin journals and I don't know why it's showing zero wear for 16 yrs use. Something is baffling me about this engine. Did Nissan really build them THAT good? A relative of mine said the VG30 engine was supposedly one of the best engines ever that Nissan made. Don't know if this is just hog wash though. And I had next to no sludge. Dino oil it's whole life. No engine work done ever besides timing belt once. Did the seafoam twice in cars life. Don't think i'll do the seafoam thing again though.
Supposedly the round tooth belt will go further out without change in Miles, so I guess in that respect alone it could be a benefit. I was thinking on going to the wreckers and finding them, but seems like a horrible task, cutting out that valve cover (and everything in the way) in the Junk Yard, with no air supply.
and i'm very proud of my car.
over the year that i've had her i've never had any engine problems. when john (colombianmax) helped me with my waterpump the crank key was in perfect shape to.
there was a thread if any vg owners burned oil and noone could really reply.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
boomerbrian
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
10-31-2018 10:25 AM
6spd4dsc
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
4
03-04-2016 05:19 PM
bryants95max
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
10
10-02-2015 12:52 PM