Suspension Upgrades
09-29-2009, 06:13 AM
#82
The handling is nice, it's much better than before. But you need to remember I only have 6.5" wide wheels with a 215 tire, until I get wider wheels/tires with less sidewall it's only going to feel so good IMO.
09-29-2009, 07:26 AM
#83
09-29-2009, 08:22 AM
#84
If anyone knows of any 16 or 17's that are at least 7.5"s wide and an offset of under 40 then please let me know.
09-29-2009, 08:41 AM
#85
350z 17" wheels are 7.5+30 and 8+33 i think. mustang cobras like the ones i have for my z are 17x8+32 but as far as i'm aware both are >20lb/ea. my 17x7+22 chrysler wheels are 20lb exactly but they are designed for an 9/16" stud (14.5mm) so the lugnuts sunk all the way down into the acorn taper. If i had the longer capped-style lugnuts it would have been fine tho.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 09-29-2009 at 08:49 AM.
09-29-2009, 09:05 AM
#86
350z 17" wheels are 7.5+30 and 8+33 i think. mustang cobras like the ones i have for my z are 17x8+32 but as far as i'm aware both are >20lb/ea. my 17x7+22 chrysler wheels are 20lb exactly but they are designed for an 9/16" stud (14.5mm) so the lugnuts sunk all the way down into the acorn taper. If i had the longer capped-style lugnuts it would have been fine tho.
09-29-2009, 09:17 AM
#87
I know other things will fit, but I am only looking for certian wheels. Plus with the Z wheels I would not be able to rotate those. I don't want wheels that are not the same width or offset. If I need to I will use wheels spacers to achieve the correct offset, at least that way I would be able to rotate my tires and have different offsets in the front and back.
09-29-2009, 02:31 PM
#90
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
350z 17" wheels are 7.5+30 and 8+33 i think. mustang cobras like the ones i have for my z are 17x8+32 but as far as i'm aware both are >20lb/ea. my 17x7+22 chrysler wheels are 20lb exactly but they are designed for an 9/16" stud (14.5mm) so the lugnuts sunk all the way down into the acorn taper. If i had the longer capped-style lugnuts it would have been fine tho.
You could go the Z route and get four fronts, that way they're all the same size and you can rotate them... I know others have done it...
Screw it man just get these....
18.1lbs
09-29-2009, 05:50 PM
#92
Confirmed. You will feel the extra rotating mass of the Mustang wheels during acceleration and it will slow you down with out using your brakes all that much
You could go the Z route and get four fronts, that way they're all the same size and you can rotate them... I know others have done it...
Screw it man just get these....
[img]http://www.mossyperformance.com/ProdImages/nismo_lmgt4_bronze.jpg[/i/mg]
18.1lbs
You could go the Z route and get four fronts, that way they're all the same size and you can rotate them... I know others have done it...
Screw it man just get these....
[img]http://www.mossyperformance.com/ProdImages/nismo_lmgt4_bronze.jpg[/i/mg]
18.1lbs
09-29-2009, 10:17 PM
#93
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
4 fronts or rears depending on the sizes that you wanted to deal with 
11-11-2009, 11:18 AM
#94
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 87
My stock rear swaybar mounting bracket recently broke, after a few years of driving around on upgraded (Suspention Techniques) front and rear swaybars (with stock "soft" GXE springs). The sheetmetal bracket broke in the form of a "washer" shape, which I TIG welded back into place.
But rather than just weld it up as good as stock, I took inspiration from Matt's
"Blemco" rear link design, and welded a chunk of 1.5" angle iron as reinforcement. I left the stock bracket in tact and welded the angle iron right next to it to reinforce it.
I'll have to get a little paint on there as well to protect the bare welded metal. It is possible that interference between the rear swaybar and my custom exhaust/muffler caused the failure, so I will need to adjust the exhaust system, and also maybe throw a couple needed motor mounts to reduce exhaust system movement as well in the near future.
My stock rear sway links and their spherical joints are however still going strong... no signs of play. Hope this info might prove useful to someone!
But rather than just weld it up as good as stock, I took inspiration from Matt's
"Blemco" rear link design, and welded a chunk of 1.5" angle iron as reinforcement. I left the stock bracket in tact and welded the angle iron right next to it to reinforce it.
I'll have to get a little paint on there as well to protect the bare welded metal. It is possible that interference between the rear swaybar and my custom exhaust/muffler caused the failure, so I will need to adjust the exhaust system, and also maybe throw a couple needed motor mounts to reduce exhaust system movement as well in the near future.
My stock rear sway links and their spherical joints are however still going strong... no signs of play. Hope this info might prove useful to someone!
01-03-2011, 01:40 PM
#95
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: STFU TROLL
Posts: 180
My stock rear swaybar mounting bracket recently broke, after a few years of driving around on upgraded (Suspention Techniques) front and rear swaybars (with stock "soft" GXE springs). The sheetmetal bracket broke in the form of a "washer" shape, which I TIG welded back into place.
But rather than just weld it up as good as stock, I took inspiration from Matt's
"Blemco" rear link design, and welded a chunk of 1.5" angle iron as reinforcement. I left the stock bracket in tact and welded the angle iron right next to it to reinforce it.
I'll have to get a little paint on there as well to protect the bare welded metal. It is possible that interference between the rear swaybar and my custom exhaust/muffler caused the failure, so I will need to adjust the exhaust system, and also maybe throw a couple needed motor mounts to reduce exhaust system movement as well in the near future.
My stock rear sway links and their spherical joints are however still going strong... no signs of play. Hope this info might prove useful to someone!
But rather than just weld it up as good as stock, I took inspiration from Matt's
"Blemco" rear link design, and welded a chunk of 1.5" angle iron as reinforcement. I left the stock bracket in tact and welded the angle iron right next to it to reinforce it.
I'll have to get a little paint on there as well to protect the bare welded metal. It is possible that interference between the rear swaybar and my custom exhaust/muffler caused the failure, so I will need to adjust the exhaust system, and also maybe throw a couple needed motor mounts to reduce exhaust system movement as well in the near future.
My stock rear sway links and their spherical joints are however still going strong... no signs of play. Hope this info might prove useful to someone!
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