1993-VG30E-GXE

Here's the scenario guys. Fuel pump was installed (New Bosch) FEB 2008. I've put 16,590 KM on the pump only since.

Started the car up to warm it up. Walked back outside and heard it stalling, and it turned off. Started the car up again and it started stalling out like when we remove the fuse for the fuel pump. Tried a few more times several 5 minutes apart, no start.

Noticed as I turn the key to the ON state, when you normally heard the fuel pump go on, it wasn't going on. Not sure if because it was pressurized already, do we normally hear it ALWAYS go on for a second or two. So I figured it could be the fuel pump or the fuse. Remove fuse, put same one back in, no change, didn't hear it come on. Swapped the fuel pump fuse with the same amps Fog Light fuse. Fuel pump sound came on. Car started for a few seconds, then died. Tried again, started then died. Tried again a few times after that and no fuel pump turning on noise anymore.

Any ideas?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

are you waiting ~15-30 sec with the key OFF before flicking it ON again? the fuel pump cycles on with the key but if you try to immediately turn the key off then on, it won't work right away.

1993-VG30E-GXE

It's weird. It's working now after I took a 3rd fuse (15A) and put it in the fuel pump position. The first fuse I looked at it was blown. The second fuse I looked at (that I took out of the fog lamp spot) was blown, and I know that the second fuse allowed the car to start for a few seconds then it died out.

It's highly unlikely that the second fuse I put in was weak and blew from the fuse itself being faulty? Someone told me that if the fuel filter is clogged, it could repeatedly blow fuses over time. This doesn't make sense though, is he saying that it build back pressure or something? Same thing would happen when we turn the key to the ON position and we hear the pump go on for a few seconds. It stops because the rail fills up, it doesn't blow fuses.

Very strange.

A guy tells me it MUST be electrical then. Like a short somewhere or something.

[I did wait the 30 seconds. I actually waited 5 minutes between tests or more, just in case the fuel pressure could go down a little if I waited].

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

think about this... the harder an electric motor has to work, the more amps it needs. that's how anti-snag power windows work.. if the control unit senses over-current (based on preset specs) it will stop the window so you don't crush your passenger's finger.

well the same thing can apply to any electric motor (hence why a high compression 5.9L cummins diesel engine would need a bigger battery to run the starter than a low compression 1.7L 4banger like my civic). same voltage, but more amps. and fuses are rated in, you guessed it, amps.

so what he said about a clogged pump or filter or something blowing fuses isn't that unrealistic if in fact the clog is making the pump draw more current than the fuse is rated for.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Thanks caped - i'll swap the fuel filter as I have a new one on hand. I called my friends dad - an eccentric englishman, he's completely crazy, but he's nuts when it comes to electrical stuff - he built those scam satellites and stuff, and those scam code card things to get free movie channels in Toronto...anyways, he also says yes, he suspects the fuel filter clogged could also cause blown fuses. He said it's possible it's straining the pump.

I'll put that in along with the new fuses, and see what happens.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The part about a motor drawing more amps is true, I don't think a pump in good working condition should or would blow a fuse if the filter was plugged. The pump is designed to deliver more gas than the engine can use, so it always has a resistance to gas flow, which we know as fuel pressure. When you first turn the ignition switch on, the pump runs for a few seconds until pressure has built up in the fuel line and then stops. It sounds like a pressure shut off has been built in.

A plugged fuel filter would certainly cause the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel line between it and the fuel filter, but I would think the pump would shut down the same as when you turn on the ignition switch. BUT if the fuel filter is plugged, gas cannot get to the engine and of course the engine won't run without gas. Usually a plugged fuel filter allows the engine to run at low rpm as some gas does get through, but not enough gas for high rpm or high power needs.

If you haven't replaced your fuel filter for a long time, do it now and see if it helps resolve your problem.

1993-VG30E-GXE

I went outside and replaced the fuel filter and the fuse with new ones. It's idling now for about 30 min. I'll test longer. I did the blow test on the used filter (1.5 yrs old and 13,139KM), it seems slightly more restricted compared to the new one, but I suspect it's from being wet inside with gas. I'll let it dry out then try the blow test again.

It would be nice to open it up, but I tried bashing one to hell a couple yrs ago and couldn't open it. Maybe i'll use the cutting wheel and the die grinder, and take a photo and post it. The restriction in the used fuel filter didn't seem abnormal in any way.

If it's a short though, can it be extremely intermittent...like is it susceptiblle to moist weather? It was extremely damp for the few days prior to the incident.

I don't want to be driving all the way to New York and then the dumb fuel pump turns off on the highway.

1993-VG30E-GXE

I will add, that the thin ground wire coming out of the RE4F02A side cover - the tab that connects to the side cover self sealing bolts - broke off so I have a loose makeshift ground as I can't open those self sealing bolts or they may start leaking...so that ground is sketch there (no good way to secure it - tried soldering it but it didn't work), but I figured that the bellhousing is grounded via cylinder block flange.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Apply 12 volt to it...It either works or it doesn't!